The Wine & Food of Valle d'Aosta
Wine doesn’t come easy here, and not much of
the minimal production makes it outside the parameters
of the this zone. While it may lack an international
presence, it hardly conducts an insular existence,
given the multicultural nature of its extensive varietal
roster, with Italian, French, and Swiss grapes all
accounted for. This esoteric grape nation may seem
to preclude this zone from establishing an identity
to call its own, but in actuality, the extremely high
altitudes of Valle d’Aosta’s vineyards
allow only for certain varieties. Moreover, this extreme
zone imbues the grapes with a distinctive character—attesting
to this region’s unique contribution to Italy’s
stylistic breadth. The region, which operates under
the all-encompassing Valle d’Aosta DOC (comprised
of seven zones), recognizes twenty-five discrete styles.
The international array involved here can be confusing
in and of itself, and it becomes even more so given
the labeling protocol, which admits both varietal
and geographic identification, as well as a bilingual
labeling schema (Italian and French, the latter of
which is the zone’s official second language).
Moreover, Valle d’Aosta maintains its own unusual
nomenclature for certain grapes: Nebbiolo goes by
the name Picotendro and Pinot Grigio is referred
to as Malvoisie (specifically in Chambave).
The region's quantitative precedence of red production
takes, constituting 90 percent of the zone’s
output, far exceeds that of its white. Among the latter
minority are international favorite Chardonnay, regionally
correct versions of which are the antithesis of Californian
bottlings; the German Müller-Thurgau, a hybrid
of Riesling and Sylvaner; Petit Arvine, a relatively
light Swiss white; a native clone of Pinot Grigio,
Malvoisie, which tends to be more aromatic than Pinot
Grigio; Moscato, which delivers a particularly pronounced
character in its Valle d’Aostian expression,
Chambave Muscat, and Pinot Blanc. The indigenous white
contribution is made by Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle,
an extensively planted high-acid grape.
Valle d’Aosta’s extensive red production
is hardly enabled by conditions, which make ripening
problematic. Nevertheless, wines from grapes such
as Petit Rouge—which serves as the base varietal
for several wines, including Torrette, Enfer d’Arvier,
and Chambave Rouge— are light and fairly high
in acidity, rendering them particularly companionable
with the hearty cuisine of this far northwest outpost
of Italy. One indigenous grape, Prëmetta, is
light-bodied making it exclusively suitable for pink
production, earning it the moniker rosato naturale.
Despite the general orientation of the reds, it is
displaying a particular predilection for warm-weather
Syrah, an affinity supported by the region’s
latitude, which is the same as that of the Côtes
du Rhône. This interesting likeness is heightened
by one of its natives—Fumin—which delivers
a particularly Syrah-like character in its peppery
dimension. Nebbiolo’s alias, Picotendro, holds
court in both the Arnaud-Montjovet and Donnas DOCs,
with the former of the two known for its aromatic
dimension; the latter’s scarce presence in the
States renders it a particular oddity. Gamay frequently
appears in blends, and Pinot Noir has been the subject
of much experimentation.
The sparkling category is essentially owned by the
widely planted Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle (also
known as prié blanc), which is vinified in
the metodo classico. While the sweet category
is also a late-harvest one-wine wonder known as La
Crotta di Vegneron, its expression of Pinot Grigio
is truly singular—eliciting a heady floral and
peach bouquet.
These wines aren’t easily had, as low production
levels keep them tied to their native ground, where
they participate in palate-stirring food-and-wine
synergies that match up mountain fare with light,
bright reds. Cheese isn’t relegated to one course
here, as it figures in several dishes, particularly
soups, risotto, and polenta. Toma and Robiola
are two cheeses widely produces here, but the DOP-rated
Fontina, a full-fat, semihard cheese that delivers
a unique, sweet taste, makes the most frequent appearances
in regional dishes. A particularly decadent expression
of the form is delivered in zuppa all veca,
a soup of melted fontina, featuring orzo and mountain
herb.
Game meats—hare, venison, and partridge—are
regulars at Alpine feasts, with the rare chamois and
ibex utilized in a prosciutto known as mocetta;
another popular prosciutto is Jambon de Bosses,
a DOP designate. Tetouns, an herb-cured cow’s
udder salt—takes things into a unique is a particularly
unique realm. Popular meat dishes include carbonade
(beef stew) and costolette (breaded
veal cutlets). The Valdostan fruits and honeys are
particularly prized for their distinctive fragrance.
Tegole (almond biscuits), and torcetti
(butter crisps) are some of the region's sweet notables.
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Regional Information
Capital City: Aosta
Surface: 1,260 sq miles
Population: 123,978
Density: 15/sq mi
Grapes
White Grapes:
Blanc de Morgex
(Prié Blanc)
Malvoisie de Nus
(Pinot Grigio)
Muscat/Moscato di
Chambave
Petite Arvine
Müller–Thurgau
Pinot Bianco
Pinot Gris/Grigio
Red Grapes:
Petit Rouge
Picotendro (Nebbiolo)
Fumin
Premetta
Vien de Nus
Gamay
Pinot Noir (locals here
use Noir, rather than
Nero, due to
proximity
to France)
Food
Cheese
Fontina
Valle d'Aosta Fromadzo
Salumi
Valle d'Aosta Jambon de
Bosses
Valle d'Aosta Lard
d'Arnad
Other Regional Specialties
Fonduta
Boudin
Mocetta
Lardo di Arnad
Recipes
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