The Wine & Food of Umbria
Though their contiguous positioning renders it difficult
to discriminate between Umbria and Toscana, a condition
that the latter’s fame exacerbates, Umbria is
very much its own region—one that has been coming
into its own zone and attracting the notice of both
critic and consumer. Umbria traditionally privileged
other product categories, though it has struggled
to realize prime positioning in its favored specializations—truffles
and olive oil. Its terroir, however, has always served
it well: the collaboration between sea and mountain
breezes realizes a classic context for ripening, while
the volcanic soils put the vines under “motivational”
stress. These conditions have been behind some of
the zone’s most successful wines.
In a general sense, Umbria’s most prolific
DOC—Orvieto— captures in microcosm the
zone’s efforts to establish a distinct identity,
principally by maximizing its inherent worth. While
many examples of this wine tend to be fairly light,
denoted primarily by a high degree of acidity, the
blending discipline actually supports a diverse stylistic
range. Thus, some producers blend with a view to achieving
a considerable degree of concentration, limiting the
contribution of the neutral Trebbiano Toscana and
maximizing the presence of Grechetto, an aromatically
demonstrative varietal that is the current leading
varietal of the region. Chardonnay is also appealed
to in the interest of fleshing out the diminutive
Orvieto. Some work with proportions that take them
outside the DOC, providing a rather striking testimony
to what Umbria’s grapes can do—particularly
through monovarietal Grechettos or those based predominantly
on Grechetto, both of which are prominent constituents
in productions of the Colli Martani and Colli del
Trasimeno zones.
The issue of what constitutes the “Umbrian
style” is even more complicated when we consider
the spectrum of reds, as three main categories comprise
Umbria’s red portfolio. For quite some time,
however, Lungarotti constituted the sole reference
point for red; indeed, it was founder Giorgio Lungarotti
who gave Umbria a market presence. While the Lungarotti
label may no longer claim exclusive representation
of Umbria, it possesses no contenders in its style
category—denoted by a resolute adherence to
tradition (aging in large casks; holding prior to
release). There are several producers, however, who
represent the opposite party—the champion of
the international style. The main DOCs are Colli del
Trasimeno and Orvieto, although several producers
work outside the parameters of the latter in order
to enjoy greater latitude. Occupying the middle ground
is the Montefalco DOC, the home of Umbria’s
most famous and distinctive red, Sagrantino. Not only
is this grape exclusive to the region of Umbria, it
limits its presence there to a mere 400 acres. A rich
and demonstrative wine of ancient origin, Sagrantino
was accorded its own DOCG designation in 1992, and
has achieved notable acclaim through the work of producers
such as Paolo Bea and Arnaldo Caprai. It also plays
a minor role (minimum of 10%) in wines of the Montefalco
DOC (led by Sangiovese at 60%).
Despite Orvieto’s struggles to define itself
in the white still genre, it has always distinguished
itself in the sweet wine category. In fact,
Orvieto’s sweet side has very little to do with
its dry sensibility. Derived primarily from grapes
that have realized a considerable degree of concentration
and been affected by noble rot, the sweet wines of
Orvieto are intense and decadent. Antinori’s
Muffato della Sala is regarded as the most accomplished
in its class. The reds, however, provide some pretty
intense competition, as Montefalco’s sweet wines
are vinified from dried grapes (via the appassimento
process), rendering them considerably dense and
voluptuous.
As indicated earlier, Umbria has considerable interest
in the gourmet market and is now receiving the desired
validation. Of principal note are its black and
white truffles (the latter of which are particularly
prized), as well as its Extra-Virgin olive oils.
Outside this realm, the region is a prolific producer
of legumes and grains. With respect to the latter, farro—which
has been grown in Umbria since the time of the Etruscans—is
prominent, as it produces a darker, tastier flour
than the more common white version used elsewhere.
The celebrated farro
di Monteleone di Spoleto, grown in the heart
of the central Apennine mountains, is a dominant
presence in the regional cuisine. It is used as
both a grain to prepare hearty dishes accompanied
by legumes—such as lenticchie di Norcia (lentils)—and
as flour for the production of dried and/or egg pasta
and breads such as lumachelle—baked
bread rolls enriched with pieces of cheese and
cured meat. Umbria also excels in the meat department,
offering its own regional prosciutto di Norcia and
succulent
porchetta (pork roast), much like that produced
by the neighboring Lazio. Mazzafegati (piquant
liver sausages with orange rinds, pine nuts, and
raisins) is one of the region’s most unique
and prized dishes.
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Regional Information
Capital City: Perugia
Provinces: 2
Surface: 3,264 sq miles
Population: 867,878
Density: 39/sq mile
Grapes
White Grapes:
Procanico (Trebbiano)
Grechetto
Verdello
Drupeggio (Canaiolo
Bianco)
Malvasia
Chardonnay
Sauvignon
Red Grapes:
Sangiovese
Ciliegiolo
Canaiolo
Cabernet Sauvignon
Gamay
Merlot
Montepulciano
Sagrantino
Food
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
Umbria
Salumi
Prosciutto di Norcia
Vitellone Bianco
dell'Appennino
Centrale
Other Regional Specialties
Chiuscolo
Farro di Monteleone
Lenticchie di Norcia
Lumachelle
Mazzafegati
Pescetta della Naia
Tartufo Bianco
Tartufo Nero Pregiato
Recipes
Maritozzo Umbro
Spaghetti alla Norcina
Contecchino con
Lenticchie
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