The Wine
& Food of Trentino–Alto Adige
Although Trentino–Alto Adige are not casually
affianced, the hyphen between them is not a gratuitous
one. While they may constitute a single political
entity, their ostensibly shared history actually
evidences distinctions that resonate in their contemporary
identities and culture. The major point of difference
issues from the extent of their relations with Austria.
While both were under the latter’s rule from
the beginning of the nineteenth century to the close
of the First World War, Alto Adige and Austria
go back much further—
to the Middle Ages, to be precise. Thus, Alto Adige
retains far more substantive vestiges of this affiliation
than does Trentino, expressed most demonstratively
in the bilingual culture, wherein Alto Adige is
referred to as Südtirol and German wine
names and appellations co-exist with their Italian
counterparts.
Trentino and Alto Adige—situated
around the cities of Trent and Bolzano, respectively—are
the only Italian provinces that operate autonomously.
When considered in broad terms, the two provinces
appear to possess an identical grape culture—dedicated
to the cultivation of a litany of whites—ordained
by the mutual moderation effected by the beneficent
merger between the cool Alpine air and the warm
currents issuing from Lago di Garda. Moreover,
both operate a rather extensive co-operative culture,
notably distinguished by the quality of the co-ops
(many of which were initiated by independent farmers).
While they do have many grapes in common—Chardonnay,
Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Bianco—each
specializes in its own particular varieties. Trentino
has demonstrated a particular talent with Sauvignon
Blanc (which frequently goes solely by Sauvignon),
Nosiola, and Müller-Thurgau. Trentino’s
Sauvignon is far more restrained than many of its
counterparts in the New World, as well as its fellow
Italian from Friuli. Nosiola—a Trentino native—is
rarely found outside its home ground, yet its lithe
frame and tart acidity make for a refreshing quaffer.
Müller-Thurgau
offers the virtual antithesis of this slight character,
providing a full-bodied, aromatically stirring
wine; it is widely considered to have found an
almost ideal contextual setting in Trentino.
Alto Adige also singles out a leading trio of grapes
in its catalogue— Pinot Bianco, Gewürztraminer,
and Sylvaner. Several producers present an individual
varietal in a comprehensive stylistic range. The Pinot
Bianco grape makes the most frequent appearances in
this hierarchical construct, as it may be expressed
in a relatively simple form or enhanced through oak.
Gewürztraminer (a.k.a., Traminer and Traminer
Aromatico), however, is widely regarded as Alto
Adige’s signature grape, offering an intense
mélange of flavors—lychee, rose petals,
and baking spices. Its emblematic status reflects
not only its likely identity as an original native,
but the customized complement it offers the region’s
hearty mountain cuisine, particularly dishes such
as knödel alle erbe (gnocchi with
wild herbs) and smoked sausages. Sylvaner exhibits
a character that is similar to that of Gewürtztraminer’s,
albeit less concentrated.
Trentino–Alto Adige’s extensive white
varietal roster somewhat obscures its fairly long-standing
commitment to reds—one that’s always been
serious, having become more so in recent years. In
fact, the contributions each province makes to the
red production reflect their individual efforts in
the white category, as both work with the same grapes
yet pursue their own specializations. Both are fairly
active on the international front, with the Bordeaux
triumvirate—Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,
and Merlot—receiving more attention in Trentino
than its natives, such as Schiava, which is largely
consumed on a local basis. While Trentino’s
autumn rains often impair the ripening of the grapes,
many producers believe that the climate (courtesy
of the aforementioned breezes from Lago di Garda)
is sufficiently warm enough to ensure adequate ripening.
The most successful and established of the Cabernet-based
bottlings issuing from Trentino is the Gonzaga San
Leonardo Rosso. On the indigenous front, the rare
Teroldego is quite prized, given its enticing profile
of plush berried notes and a savory quality. As it
keeps itself fairly scarce, however, it is enjoyed
primarily by a native audience.
Alto Adige’s Cabs are also quite trendy, yet
many believe that the international realm’s
imminent star-to-be is the high-maintenance Pinot
Nero, given that the area wholly satisfies all of
this grape’s demands, including high altitudes
and a distinct shift in temperature between night
and day. Alto Adige's native affairs, at the moment,
largely involve Lagrein, which is vinified as both
a rosso and a rosato. It has been quietly
yet steadily acquiring recognition through esteemed
producers such as Alois Lageder. Known for its juxtaposition
of the sweet and savory, Lagrein often delivers a
rather pronounced and tannic character.
Despite the fact that they don’t receive much
attention, the sweet wines of Trentino–Alto
Adige are not mere also-rans in the region’s
line-up. Trentino’s artisan Vin Santo producers
utilize the appassimento process—in
keeping with those who craft the more famous
Tuscan version. Unlike their Tuscan counterparts,
however, Trentino’s
winemakers may pursue their specialty exclusively
in a circumscribed area—the Valle dei Laghi—the
only subzone that possesses a climate conducive
to the drying of grapes. The other two main dessert
wines involve two subvarieties of the Moscato
grape, Moscato Giallo and Moscato Rosa. Trentino
and Alto Adige both produce the wines concerned,
the former of which may be derived from either
ultraripe grapes (vendemmia
tardiva)
or appassimento.
While quantities of all three dessert wines are
fairly minimal, Trentino turns out a pretty sizable
quantity of metodo classico dry sparklers,
produced predominantly from Chardonnay and Pinot
Nero, with a modest contribution made by Pinot Bianco.
While the sparkling scene is dominated by co-ops,
Trentino received its sparkling start from a private
producer—Ferrrari—whose
estate continues to produce a sparkler requiring
eight years’ aging prior to release.
In keeping with the independent streak each nurtures
through individual varietal pursuits, the provinces
also cultivate their own signature specialties.
Alto Adige finds its place of glory in the gourmet
aisle with speck—an artisanally cold-smoked
boned ham, aged according to local practices and
traditions dating back to the 1300s. The small Alpine
villages comprising the province possess abundant
pastures, which account for the production of high
quality staples such as Grana
Padano and Asiago, as well as numerous traditional cheeses that are
local exclusives—virtually operating under
patent as they defy replication and
are rarely found outside their zones of production—Trentingrana,
Vezzena, Puzzone di Moena, Spressa delle Giudicarie,
Rendena, Tosela, Dolomiti, Casolet, Fontal, and
Razza Rendena. They are often paired with the local
artisanal salame, Luganega
Trentina.
Polenta is a Trentino staple, playing a fundamental
role in the rather dense smacafam, baked
with sausage, salt pork, and occasionally, cheese.
Another menu regular, gnocchi (referred to
as
canederli or knödeln in the local
dialect) offers
diversity in its seemingly infinite catalogue of
preparations, with strangolapreti—meaning
"priest chokers"—being the most
famous variation. They also enter the dessert genre
through sweet, fruit-flavored versions such as canederli
di albicocche (apricot)
and canederli
di marroni (chestnuts), sharing the meal's end
with Austrian-inspired strudels, puff pastries,
and fritters.
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Regional Information
Capital City: Trento
Provinces: 2
Surface: 5,253 sq miles
Population: 985,128
Density: 27/sq mile
Grapes
White Grapes:
Chardonnay
Gewürztraminer
Grüner Veltliner
Sylvaner
Moscato Giallo
Müller–Thurgau
Nosiola
Pinot Bianco
Pinot Grigio
Riesling Italico
Sauvignon
Red Grapes:
Schiava (Vernatsch)
Lagrein
Teroldego
Marzemino
Pinot Nero
Cabernet Sauvignon
Merlot
Moscato Rosa
Food
Cheeses
Almkäse
Asiago
Bela Badia
Dolomiti
Grana Padano
Inticina
Provolone Val Padana
Spressa delle Giudicarie
Tirolese
Trentingrana
Vezzena
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
Garda
Salumi
Luganega Trentina
Mortadella Val di Non
Speck dell'Alto Adige
Other Regional Specialties
Canederli (Knödel)
Carne Fumada
Carne Salada
Strangolapreti
Recipes
Gnocchi Tirolese
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