The Wine & Food of Sicilia
For the greater part of its history in wine, Sicilia
distinguished itself primarily in the dessert wine category—with
Marsala headlining its production. Contemporary efforts,
however, have established that Sicilia is not merely
closer material, but rather, an all-star performer endowed
with the resources to lead-off, carry, and bring home
an evening's repast.
Sicilia’s sociocultural milieu essentially dictated
the cooperative culture’s former hold on the
island, precluding the growth of a Sicilian wine identity.
In recent decades, however, the region began to emerge
from its years of mass provision, as it responded to
the interest of a substantive tourist population drawn
by the island’s natural rugged beauty
and rich multicultural background (comprised of Arabian,
Norman, and Aragonese influences). The investments
generated by the tourism industry inspired the regional
pride of wine growers and encouraged independent
wine production.
Sicilia's pursuit of private labels enabled it to optimize
its propensity for viticultural distinction. While the
hottest and driest of Italy’s regions, Sicilia’s
Mediterranean climate is tempered by the presence of
the Apennine Mountains. Its climatic constitution, in
fact, enables it to deliver remarkable consistency across
vintages, particularly as it is not subject to rain
following the month of February.
Its white varietal contingency is dominated by Catarratto,
a grape exclusive to Sicilia. A prime constituent in
Marsala, when cultivated as opposed to being merely
“grown,” it can deliver a rather full-bodied
wine accented by spice. It mainly features in blends
produced under the Alcamo DOC, which accords the indigenous
Inzolia and Grecanico greater presence. While the aromatic
and fruity Inzolia and Grecanico, a variety high in
acidity, do appear as solo varietals, many producers
feel that their individual attributes show best in a
cooperative context. Chardonnay, Sicilia’s reigning
international celebrity, delivers its voluptuous character
in grandiose style in Sicilia’s intense heat.
Most bottlings are unabashed New World depictions, offering
the concentration that is principally associated with
the productions of California and Australia.
The Nero d’Avola grape reclaims leading status
for the indigenous set in the reds category. Like
the white Cataratto, it is essentially an exclusive
inhabitant of Sicilia, and its supremacy is unchallenged
by the other red Sicilians of note—Nerello Mascalese
and Frappato. The seemingly charmed Nero d’Avola—which
has acquired an international following—is
represented through several monovarietal bottlings,
yet it also makes quite a number of appearances
in blends with Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah. (This
international crew enjoys a fair amount of coverage
in Sicilia, given the affinity its members show
for the region.) Nero d'Avola also pairs up with
fellow indigenous varietal Frappato to create the
potent red Cerasuolo
di Vittoria—the region's only
DOCG.
As aforementioned, Sicilia is no longer exclusively
about the sweet hereafter, but it certainly hasn't
left behind its past altogether. Marsala, the pride
of Italy's traditional wines, has enjoyed
a comeback among connoisseurs. They particularly enjoy
those classed as Vergine/Solera—the
longest aged of the Marsalas—with their complex
flavors earning them positioning among the finest
fortified wines in Europe. While these are always
dry, DOC regulations permit sweet styles as well
as various aging parameters. Moscato di Pantelleria—one
of Italy’s most
seductive sweets—is crafted on the island of
Pantelleria. This honeyed rarity derives from the
Moscato grape, which is known as Zibibbo in
Sicilia.
Given the extensive nature of the co-op scene, Sicilia
existed on the commercial front exclusively through
the production of two estates in the '70s and '80s—Corvo-Duca
di Salaparuta and Conte Tasca d'Almerita (Regaleali).
They did especially well by Nero d'Avola, and their
signature bottlings are now classics in a varietal category
that has acquired "it" status. Many producers,
such as Spadafora, value its collaboration with the
international family, setting it up with several partners
in their portfolios (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and
Syrah). Sicilia’s most lauded wine, however, is
a single-varietal expression of an international white
varietal—the heady, decadent, and other-worldly
Planeta Chardonnay. Marco De Bartoli’s artisanal
renderings of Marsala are without equal, particularly
his Vecchio Samperi bottling. His Moscato di
Pantelleria, Bukkuram, is also revered.
As is appropriate for one with Sicilia’s background
in sweet wines, it has always made room for desserts.
Principal among them are the revered cannoli, which
Sicilians enjoy on a daily basis, as opposed to merely
occasionally. Outside its status as the Land of Sweets,
Sicilia is noted for its olive oil, fresh fruit, and
vegetables, the latter of which are bountiful year-round. Pasta
con le sarde (pasta
with sardines and wild fennel) is a signature dish
of the area, and
polpetti or polpettoni (meatballs)—which
Sicilians are credited with conceiving—figure
as the main event, as opposed to an aside. The regional
specialty possessing the closest affiliation with Sicilia
is caponata, a sauce featuring fresh eggplant,
tomatoes, peppers, chili peppers, vinegar, and onions.
As this preparation is found in eastern
Mediterranean cuisines, its status in Sicilian fare
recalls the region's ancient past—one that is
marked by foreign invasions.
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Regional Information
Capital City: Palermo
Provinces: 9
Surface: 9,923 sq miles
Population: 5,017,212
Density: 75/sq mile
Grapes
White Grapes:
Catarratto
Grecanico
Grillo
Inzolia
Malvasia
Zibibbo (Moscato Bianco)
Red Grapes:
Nero d’Avola
Frappato
Nerello Mascalese
Food
Cheese
Pecorino Siciliano
Ragusano
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
Monte Etna
Monti Iblei
Val di Mazara
Valle del Belice
Valli Trapanesi
Other Regional Specialties
Pasta con le Sarde
Caponata
Polpetti or Polpettoni
Cannoli
Recipes
Ricotta Fritta
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