The Wine & Food of Sardegna
Sardegna’s relationship with the mainland somewhat reflects the physical distance between them: its wine culture—in particular—projects a decidedly independent persona, reflecting a foreign flair and a discernible, yet relatively faint Italian accent. Spain is credited with exerting the most substantive influence, as two of the island’s major grapes are considered to possess Spanish origins. Like its fellow island in the sea—Sicilia—it
has a significant history with sweet wine, a
category that is of fairly minor standing in contemporary production.
It has also cut back substantially on bulk efforts, and its cooperative
culture has changed its ways as well, adopting a quality orientation
in a relatively short period of time. This philosophical shift was
effected fundamentally by a significant reduction in output, the replanting
of vineyards, and winery modernization.
While Sardegna’s intense heat predisposes it
to be a sweet wine specialist, microclimates enable
the island to cultivate a healthy and intriguing varietal
population. This is particularly critical with respect
to its premier white grape, Vermentino, which flourishes
in Sardegna’s Gallura zone (though it is
also provided for in the Vermentino di Sardegna DOC,
which covers the island’s
expanse). Vermentino is fleshed
out to particular effect in Gallura, achieving an
intense herbal fragrance and savory dimension, and
its
vineyard elevations realize cool evening temperatures,
ensuring the grapes’ ability
to retain acidity. While Torbato—another
of Sardegna’s whites—delivers even more
pronounced aromatics than its superior, its production
is extremely limited, despite its longstanding presence
in the region. The Cagliari DOC captures the refreshing
appeal of the third main white—Nuragus.
Interestingly, there is somewhat of a mirroring
effect—an
intriguing stylistic affinity—resonating
between Sardegna’s red and white portfolios.
Cannonau di Sardegna (Grenache/Garnacha), the
most prolific and recognized of the reds, shares
Vermentino’s
proclivity for the heat. Its light coloring belies
its oftentimes concentrated character—marked by a plush spiciness—though
it is also vinified in more restrained versions.
Although Carignano (Carignan) does not possess
an innate propensity for delivering a concentrated
character, its main DOC zone—Carignano del Sulcis—enables
it to realize considerable strength and density.
The lightweight of the group—the counterpart of Nuragus—is
Monica, a wine that offers bright berry flavors
and a high level of acidity.
As aforementioned, dessert no longer comes first
in Sardegna—in fact, wines such as Moscato di Sorso-Sennori (DOC) and Malvasia di Bosa are on the verge of extinction, although bottlings of their respective grapes are more readily available via Moscato di Sardegna (a sweet sparkler) and Malvasia di Cagliari. The most substantive production numbers are attained by Vernaccia di Oristano, the region’s
most unique wine. This fortified offering attests
to the Spanish influence upon Sardegnian viticulture in
its resemblance to Sherry, which it emulates
in both style and production methodology.
Tenute Capichera produces Gallura’s foremost
productions of Vermentino, yet the zone’s leading
cooperatives—Cantine Gallura and Cantina del
Vermentino—are considered to achieve
equivalent quality. Sella & Mosca produces the
highly regarded Monteoro bottling, and it is
practically the sole agent for the rare Torbato.
One of the most sought-after Sardegnian reds
is Argiolas’ Turriga—a
rich blend headlined by Cannonau (85%), with a minor
contribution made by the trio of Malvasia Nera, Carignano,
and Bovale Sardo (15%). The Sulcis zone’s
way with Carignano is expressed in particularly decadent
fashion in Capichera’s Assajè bottling.
Contini has long held the top rank in the Vernaccia
di Oristano classification.
Sardegnian fare is unapologetically selvaggio in
temperament, as it is heavily concentrated in
offal, the various preparations of which tend
to be straightforward, “as-they-are” affairs.
The somewhat tamer side of Sardegnian fare is
largely derived from the sea, a source that is
celebrated in spicy fish soups such as cassùla. Also
featured are a plethora of sausages and salame, as
well as fresh baked breads (each village has
its own take on the island’s tondu, còzzula,
and zicchi loaves); dried pasta;
and Pecorino Sardo and Fiore Sardo cheeses,
both of which are rated DOP. In general, many
foods are marked by a distinctive herbal component,
such as wild fennel and juniper. The island also
merits renown for its production techniques,
as it currently reigns as Italy’s most
prolific agent of organically grown produce. |
Regional Information
Capital City: Cagliari
Provinces: 8
Surface: 9,301 sq miles
Population: 1,655,677
Density: 26/sq mile
Grapes
White Grapes:
Vermentino
Torbato
Nuragus
Moscato
Malvasia
Red Grapes:
Cannonau
Carignano
Monica
Food
Cheese
Fiore Sardo
Pecorino Romano
Pecorino Sardo
Salumi
Agnello di Sardegna
Other Regional Specialties
Pane Carasau
Bottarga
Malloreddus
Sapa
Recipes
Malloreddus al Pomodoro
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