The
Wine & Food of Molise
Although it may seem to be but a footnote in Abruzzo’s
regional profile, Molise is not merely a minor division
of its more established neighbor. In fact, if there’s
any region that deserves credit for Molise’s
viticultural persona, it’s Campania—a
zone that is directly evidenced in/receives direct
attribution in Molise’s varietal constituency.
While Abruzzo receives its due in the extensive roles
that Trebbiano and Montepulciano play in the wines
of the three major DOCs (Pentro d’Isernia, Biferno,
and Molise), Campania’s Falanghina and Aglianico
are not only more prevalent, but offer a greater qualitative
contribution, endowing the local wines with a character
that’s normally reserved for wines intended
for a broader audience.
While Molise’s mountainous interior seems to
offer particularly propitious ground for the cultivation
of red grapes, at present, this potential has only
served to motivate a few investments. Molise’s
current wine production is essentially the province
of one producer—Di Majo Norante, whose history
of vine cultivation dates back to the 1800s, although
wine production did not commence until 1968. Appropriately
enough, it pursues its country’s preferred varietal
interests, aligning itself more with Campania than
with Abruzzo. That said, it is accomplished in both
regional sectors, as showcased by the quality of both
its Ramitello bottling, a single-vineyard blend of
Montepulciano and Aglianico, and the house flagship,
Don Luigi, whose primary constituent is Montepulciano.
Neighboring Abruzzo, Campania, and Puglia all have
a share in the Molise table, producing a spread of
rustic specialties headlined by numerous handmade
pastas, or sagne, several of which are topped
by either lamb or pork ragout. But the region distinguishes
itself as a producer of truffles, not just black but
also white truffles, Caciocavallo cheese and extra
virgin olive oil renowned since antiquity in the writings
of Cato and Horatio.
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