The Wine & Food of Lombardia
Lombardia is pretty well off, and it shows in the opulent,
highly stylized wineries of its Franciacorta zone, the
seat of the region’s sparkling production. These
are not merely for the sake of appearance, however,
as sparklers—and increasingly still wines—
are taken quite seriously in a land where business is
pleasure. Situated in the Po Valley’s center,
Lombardia is bordered by Trentino–Alto Adige,
Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Piemonte, and Switzerland.
While the majority of Italy's sparklers are crafted
through metodo charmat, a process that expedites
production by eliminating secondary fermentation in
bottle, the Franciacorta DOCG of the Lombardia region
is a prolific producer of metodo classico sparkling
wines crafted from Chardonnay (the most planted), Pinot
Nero, and Pinot Bianco, all of which were likely introduced
following phylloxera’s decimation of original
plantings at the close of the nineteenth century. In
fact, the traditional French paradigm is the only one
permitted, an affiliation that its practitioners extend
by employing French terms on the labels (with regard
to both sweetness level and wine type). Franciacorta
enjoys a distinctive microclimate, courtesy of the cooling
breezes issuing from Lake Iseo that reduce the rate
at which the grapes ripen, enabling them to maintain
desirable acidity while realizing a more intense and
complex flavor profile. In addition to its extensive
work in the classico genre, Lombardia also produces
Satèn (vinified exclusively from white grapes
in a crémant style) and Pas Operé (without
dosage) bottlings.
Sparklers also constitute a notable presence in Oltrepò
Pavese’s diverse varietal community— the
DOC, in fact, provides for a metodo classico spumante
composed of 70% Pinot Nero. While Trebbiano is a regular,
albeit rather unexceptional performer in several of
Italy’s zones, it steps notably out of character
in Lombardia’s Lugana zone, conveying a rather
forward persona. This expression is attributed to the
grape strain known as Trebbiano di Soave (referred to
as Trebbiano di Lugana here). Other whites include
those produced under the Terre di Franciacorta discipline,
the majority of which realize a fairly full impression
via barrique fermentation and aging; DOC demonstrate
a penchant for working with Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco.
In the Oltrepò Pavese, Riesling—particularly
the strain known as Renano—realizes strikingly
aromatic versions.
These bottlings, in conjunction with a number of reds,
have been emerging in demonstrative fashion, making
their way through the sizable bulk production and validating
Oltrepò Pavese’s inherent aptitude for
quality wine production. Barbera and Bonarda (Croatina)
are heading up the zone’s reinvention, realizing
a distinct attitude shift in versions that flesh out
the austere persona characterizing their early appearances.
The two often work together, especially in Oltrepò
Pavese’s Buttafuoco and Sangue di Giuda DOCs,
where they are joined by Uva Rara, Ughetta, and Pinot
Nero. Both may be vinified across wine’s stylistic
spectrum (encompassing dry, sweet, still, and sparkling
versions). Pinot Nero, however, is turning the most
palates at present, finding the necessary support to
maintain its delicate balance in Oltrèpo’s
continental climate.
Valtellina—Lombardia’s other main DOC for
reds—conducts a production devoted to Piemonte’s
Nebbiolo, which goes by the somewhat imposing name of
Chiavennasca in this isolated area marked by
high altitudes. As Valtellina enjoys a unique climatic
makeup, Nebbiolo has been able to acclimate well, though
most bottlings convey a character that is leaner and
more graceful in bearing than their Piemonte counterparts.
In order to produce a more concentrated offering, producers
craft bottlings from partially dried Nebbiolo grapes.
This strategy produces a glycerin-rich wine—designated
by the term sforzato—that offers intense
aromatics and a more savory character than that of an
Amarone. Four principal vineyards—each of which
operates under the DOCG designation—are regarded
as delivering the zone’s premier expressions of
Chiavennasca—Sassella, Grumello, Inferno, and
Valgella.
Cuisine is quite rich, as butter, cream, and lard are
used both extensively and in liberal fashion for the
region’s principal offerings. General staples
include risotto, polenta, and rîs (rice),
and regional salumi are quite numerous, often
accompanied by schita, a kind of pancake made
with water, flour, suet (fat) and milk. The city of
Milano specializes in cotoletta alla Milanese
and risotto allo zafferano or milanese,
and Valtellina is noted for bresaola (air-dried
beef) and sciatt, a savory cheese and grappa
fritter. Some characteristic desserts of the region
are preferita— a puff pastry layered with
jam from the town of Broni (Pavia)— and risumata,
made by beating egg yolks with sugar and additing aromatic
white wine. |
Regional Information
Capital City: Milano
Provinces: 11
Surface: 9,213 sq miles
Population: 9,475,202
Density: 153/sq mile
Grapes
White Grapes:
Chardonnay
Garganega
Pinot Bianco
Pinot Grigio
Trebbiano di Lugana
Riesling Renano/
Riesling Italico
Red Grapes:
Barbera
Chiavennasca
Pinot Nero
Cabernet Sauvignon
Merlot
Bonarda
Lambrusco
Uva Rara
Food
Cheese
Bitto
Formai de Mut dell'Alta
Val Brembana
Gorgonzola
Grana Padano
Parmigiano-Reggiano®
Provolone Val Padana
Nisso
Quartirolo Lombardo
Siras
Taleggio
Valtellina Casera
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
Garda
Laghi Lombardi
Salumi
Bresaola della Valtellina
Cacciatorini
Coppa
Lardo
Salame Brianza
Salame di Varzi
Salame d'Oca di
Mortasa
Zampone
Other Regional Specialties
Mostarda di Voghera
Schita
Recipes
Dolcebrusco
Osso Buco
Polenta di Mosto
Preferita
Risotto allo Zafferano
Risotto ai Funghi Porcini
Risumata
Sciatt
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