Further evidence of Liguria’s viticultural calling is offered in its notable achievements with Vermentino, the region’s premier white grape. While this distinctive variety is also catered to in both Sardinia and Toscana, it doesn’t expressly reflect either of these zones in its tasting profile, deriving the most benefit from the climatic properties of each. Liguria and Vermentino, however, have something special going, a rapport or bond that is evoked in the wine’s distinctive herbal dimension, which evokes particular environs in the Liguria region and corresponds to the aromatic quality of Ligurian specialties. In the DOCs of Colli di Luni and Golfo del Tigullio—situated in Levante (eastern Liguria)—it is vinified principally as a solo varietal, while serving as a contributor to the blends of Cinque Terre and Colline di Levanto. Its most accomplished expression is delivered in the wines of the Riviera Ligure di Ponente; it is these expressions from Ponente (western Liguria), in fact, that deliver the most pronounced articulation of Liguria’s vegetation, offering a pronounced herbal cachet, distinct brininess, and savory dimension. Terre Bianche produces one of the foremost expressions of Ligure di Ponente, and Enoteca Bisson delivers one of the Levante’s best renditions.

If you were to look out upon a Ligurian vineyard plot, you might think you behold Vermentino as far as the eye can see. However, it is more than likely that Pigato figures in the scene as well, though its physical resemblance to Vermentino incurs some identity issues. Pigato’s glass act may also come across a lot like the leading white, as it possesses the herbal character and salty quality that signify Vermentino. In fact, some experts posit that Pigato and Vermentino are, in fact, the same, with their ostensible differences born of terroir and viticultural distinctions. Pigato is, however, typically distinguished from its varietal familiar through a more intense aromatic expression and demonstrative palate performance. Artisanal producer Riccardo Bruna is the name to know here: He’s been cultivating Pigato for over three decades, and his achievements with the grape are critically acclaimed.

While Pigato and Vermentino may share a similar tasting profile, they belong to a decidedly distinct minority in the white varietal field. Appropriately enough, Ligurian reds also hold themselves apart from their varietal majority’s standard orientation. Ponente essentially captures this atypical profile in a red pair— Rossesse and Ormeasco (Piemonte’s Dolcetto)—that signifies the region’s predilection for the savory and earthy. The wines of the Levante are similarly disposed, though they tend to involve Tuscan grapes. Reds are also vinified in eastern Liguria, primarily in the Colli di Luni and Golfo del Tigullio DOCs. Liguria’s aforementioned affinity with Vermentino is challenged by its propensity for red wine production, afforded by an ideal terroir: poor soils, well-drained slopes, and a dry climate.

While the wines of Cinque Terre—comprised of Bosco, Albarola, and/or Vermentino—are predominantly dry and imbibed on the local scene, there is a sweet version vinified from dried grapes — Sciacchetrà—that is highly revered for its profuse delivery of honey, dried fruits, and nutmeg. As its production essentially falls under the provenance of one producer—Walter De Batté—it is exceedingly difficult to acquire.

Liguria and pasta go back quite some time, as Genoese of the 13th century propagated the noodle’s preeminence in Italian cuisine via various ports. Their chosen specialization continues today, devoted almost entirely to the production of wheat pastas. Popular forms of pasta include pansòuti ( a ravioli-type shape), fregamài (dumplings), and madilli de saea (silk handkerchiefs). The Ligurians also nurture a decided predilection for one particular sauce—pesto—a fragrant blend of basil, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil, and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Herbs are prevalent in Ligurian cooking (in addition to basil, parsley, rosemary, marjoram, and thyme figure prominently), and preboggion, a blend of various herbs, figures in many preparations.