The Wine & Food of Lazio
Although Rome is situated in the Lazio region, the latter is in somewhat
of a subordinate role, given Rome's
eminent prestige. Lazio, however, shares in the Eternal City's epic through the
medium of wine, having produced Frascati—one of the most celebrated of
Italian wines. Its esteemed past—marked
by frequent mention in literary works and legends—is not merely the stuff
of romance, and for the past several years, it has been in revival mode, setting
the stage for the entrance of some wines—both whites and reds—that
are already directing a pretty attractive course for Lazio’s future….
The Alban Hills, in particular, establish Lazio’s viticultural
credentials, given their well-drained, potassium-rich
volcanic soils. The Frascati zone—one of the nine DOCs comprising
the Alban Hills—enjoys
a modified Mediterranean clime, enabling its
wines to retain essential acidity.
Frascati does, however, have more going for it than its climate
and glory days. Indeed, its production discipline
does not render it the subject of strict typecasting.
Some producers endeavor to craft more distinctive
wines by allowing Malvasia, an aromatic varietal,
to provide a more substantive contribution; in
fact, Frascati may be a pure-varietal Malvasia.
Nevertheless, it may also derive exclusively
from Trebbiano, a fairly neutral white, and producers
who privilege quantity continue to cast one of
Trebbiano's many clones in the lead role. There
are those, however, such as Castel de Paolis,
who seek to craft wines for a discerning palate.
Castel de Paolis endeavors to get the most out of Malvasia and Trebbiano, while
also involving other grapes (which may account for 10% of the blend). Colle Picchioni
pursues the same orientation outside Frascati in the
Marino discipline.
Trebbiano also enjoys the key note position in the Est! Est!!
Est!!! discipline, another of Lazio’s past success stories
(according to legend, its name—meaning—“It
is”—represents
the critical reaction of a 12th-century bishop’s scout, under
charge to identify quality wines en route to
the Vatican). While contemporary versions may
not elicit the same stirring reaction, the best
deliver refreshing, aromatic wines.
While this culture is presently dedicated to winning back some of
its former rankings, almost inexplicably, it
also possesses one of the wine world’s most compelling legacies— the
wines of Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi, the prince
of Venosa. Ludovisi’s
wines—a Bianco, Sémillon, and Rosso—are presently
under the charge of a select few—three individuals
who work to place what remains (of a bequest
to the late wine critic Luigi Veronelli) with
a proper and highly discriminating audience. Utilizing
an early form of organic viticulture and maintaining
exceedingly low yields, the prince crafted mystical
wines; as he destroyed the vineyards when no
longer able to tend them, his story will be told
only by the wines he himself crafted.
Ironically, while red wines constitute a minority category at present,
many believe that red is Lazio’s
true color. If it does have aspirations to change
its primary color, however, it’s more than likely going to have
to rely on its neighbors’ varietal
goods, particularly Sangiovese, Montepulciano,
and Aglianico, as well as those of the international
party, led by the well-known Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon. Syrah may also emerge in time as Lazio’s
one and only. For now, though, it’s doing quite well with Merlot
and Cab bottlings, the most well-known of which
are crafted by Riccardo Cotarella—the Italian star of the consulting
world. Colle Picchioni has achieved notable success
with a blend that evinces a Bordeaux-like persona,
while Castel de Paolis crafts a more plush style
in its I
Quattro Mori bottling. All is not lost on the local scene, however,
as several producers are endeavoring to make
something of the indigenous Cesanese—previously used only in frizzante wines—through
both single-varietal offerings and blends.
Many will, perhaps, be on familiar terms with some staples
of Lazian cuisine—the most popular emissaries
of which are spaghetti alla carbonara, bucatini all’amatriciana,
and abbacchio [milk-fed lamb] alla romana.
Lazians are particularly devoted to abbacchio (which
serves as both a year-round specialty and signature
dish of Easter), and specialize in a few denizens of
the garden—peas, zucchini, fava beans, and most
notably, artichokes. |
Regional Information
Capital City: Roma
Provinces: 5
Surface: 6,644 sq miles
Population: 5,304,778
Density: 118/sq mile
Grapes
White Grapes:
Malvasia
Trebbiano
Red Grapes:
Cabernet Sauvignon
Merlot
Sangiovese
Montepulciano
Abbuoto (used to make the rare Cecubo)
Cesanese
Food
Cheeses
Mozzarella di Bufala
Campana
Pecorino Romano
Pecorino Toscano
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
Canino
Sabina
Salumi
Mortadella Bologna
Salamini Iitaliani alla
Cacciatora
Vitellone Bianco
dell'Appennino
Centrale
Recipes
Abbacchio
alla Romana
Bucatini
all'Amatriciana
Spaghetti
Carbonara
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