The Wine & Food of Friuli–Venezia Giulia
Situated in the northeastern region of Italy—bordering
Austria and Slovenia—Friuli–Venezia Giulia's
culture offers an intriguing amalgam of cultural influences.
A formal breakdown of the area's hyphenated designation
provides a composite treatment of the complex history
denoting the area's evolution and contemporary persona.
The name Friuli recognizes the ancient Friulani
who first settled the area, while Venezia Giulia
is historically associated with the Venetian Republic.
Its wine culture reflects a similarly charged dynamic.
Few wine regions evidence the philosophical rigor informing
Friuli's wine evolution, nor a state in which seemingly
distinct approaches exist in relative equanimity, operating
above conflicts concerning old and new, tradition and
modern. Moreover, no other region possesses Friuli's
eminent legion of producers—a class of passionate
figures devoted to integrating the past and the present
in provocative ways.
Friuli is innately disposed to be a white varietal specialist:
Many of its wine zones—specifically, those situated
in the flatlands of Friuli—receive the benefit
of a propitious interaction between mountain air and
warm sea currents. Their natural collaboration authors
an environment of rare moderation, one in which the
grapes realize rich fruit flavors while retaining their
incisive acidity. The ideal terroir is considered to
be the provenance of the zone's premier regions, Collio
and Colli Orientali, which feature soils comprised of
limestone, marl, and sandstone, and vineyards situated
at a high elevation.
The vinous interpretation of this elemental arrangement
is the Friulian standard bearer, a crisp, clean white
that has enjoyed not only regional supremacy but recognition
as the nation's foremost expression of a white varietal.
It has maintained this status literally since its inception
in the late sixties, when the late Mario Schiopetto
led a movement dedicated to presenting the grape in
a naked state. While imitated throughout Italy's expanse,
no other region possesses the breadth of Friuli's white
varietal canon, comprised of both indigenous and international
varietals. The principal members of the former category
include Tocai Friulano, Malvasia Istriana, Ribolla Gialla,
and Picolit, while the latter is headlined by Chardonnay,
Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Bianco,
and Pinot Grigio, many versions of which do not reference
either their fellow Italians or counterparts from various
other regions.
Despite the efforts of Schiopetto and his followers
to preserve the varietal integrity of individual grapes,
some adherents went too far, thereby diminishing the
grape's character. An antithetical protocol was championed
in response—the signature mediums of which were
barrique fermentation and aging—initially
headlined by the iconoclastic Josko Gravner. Such processes
became the signature elements of the new whites in town—concentrated
blends that fleshed out their diminutive counterparts.
While Friuli's wine scene might seem to be a tale of
two irreconcilable philosophies, the borderline between
them was not rigidly maintained, admitting a fair amount
of crossover. One of the most profound examples of this
exchange is captured in Silvio Jermann's Vintage
Tunina, conceived as an homage to the field blends
made by Jermann's father and grandfather. Tunina is
classed as one of the “Super-Whites”—a
category comprising complex, full-bodied blends of both
indigenous and international varietals that may be treated
exclusively in stainless steel or fermented and aged
in wood. There is also a third contingent—comprised
of producers who are associated primarily through their
fierce independence and avant garde approaches. Principal
among them are Gravner, Stanislao Radikon, Alex Movia,
and Damijan Podversic.
While Friuli–Venezia Giulia is understandably
known best for its comprehensive coverage of white grapes,
the region also possesses a healthy relationship with
red varietals. Although early Friulian treatment of
reds reflected white vinification procedures, fundamental
modern techniques have facilitated ageworthy, full-bodied
wines. While it has enjoyed particular success with
the Bordeaux varietals, its indigenous varietals—Refosco,
Pignolo, and Schioppettino—seem to have international
aspirations as well. While many regard Refosco as the
leader of the trio, all three have been making their
way back into the Friulian landscape. Schioppettino—Ribolla
Gialla’s black counterpart—may be translated
into a powerful wine of black fruit and spice that reflects
kinship with a syrah from the Rhône.
Friulian cuisine represents a creative interpretation
of its complex history, fusing elements from the neighboring
Austrian and Slovenian cultures to create dishes occupying
the hearty "mountain fare" genre. It is also noted
for its prosciutto production, headlined by the local
favorites Prosciutto di San Daniele and the affumicato (smoked) Prosciutto
di Sauris. Friuli is also home to some notable
cheeses, most notably the mild Montasio and Tabor, made
exclusively with cow’s milk from the Carso area.
Other specialties include artisanal cured meats, such
as cotechini (pork sausages). These are referred
to in the local dialect as musèt and
often served with hearty soups or vegetables, such
as musèt e brovade, with grated pomace-steeped
white turnips. Desserts include delicious pastries
such as gubana and strucoli, filled with
ricotta, raisins, and walnuts.
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Regional Information
Capital City: Trieste
Provinces: 4
Surface: 3,033 sq miles
Population: 1,208,278
Density: 59/sq mile
Grapes
White Grapes:
Tocai
Chardonnay
Sauvignon
Pinot Grigio
Pinot Bianco
Ribolla Gialla
Picolit
Verduzzo
Malvasia
Moscato Giallo
Muller Thurgau
Riesling Renano
Red Grapes:
Merlot
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Sauvignon
Refosco
Schioppettino
Tazzelenghe
Pinot Nero
Food
Cheeses
Montasio
Tabor
Salumi
Musèt
Prosciutto di San
Daniele
Prosciutto di Sauris
Other Regional Specialties
Biscotti di Raveo
Grappa
Musèt e brovade
Recipes
Gubana
Frico
Friulano |
