In Roman times, Emilia-Romagna existed as two distinct entities, and this separation is captured in the individual specialties pursued by each. Sparklers still dominate the portfolio as a whole, although its leading constituent is no longer exclusively showcasing its ever-popular sweet side. In fact, Emilia’s primary contribution—Lambrusco—has extended its spectrum, and now operates four distinct DOC regions, each of which may produce red and rosé frizzante wines in a variety of styles—secco, amabile, or dolce. Lambrusco operates an extensive catalogue of subvarieties, with Lambruscos Sorbara, Grasparossa, and Salamino each possessing their own DOC.

The smallest of these, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, is credited with producing wines that are deeper in color, drier, and more full-bodied than wines from the other three zones, producing the most serious expression. Other grapes contributing to Emilia-Romagna’s sparkling population are Malvasia, produced in frizzante and spumante versions, and the traditional Pinot Nero and Chardonnay, figuring in metodo classico bottlings. Romagna gets in on the sparkling action via Trebbiano and Albana, vinified in spumante bottlings.

Romagna’s clone of the ubiquitous Trebbiano—Trebbiano di Romagna (the name constitutes a hybrid of the region and grape)—is the region’s most extensively planted variety, although only a minor amount is bottled. Albana di Romagna is pretty scarce as well, although its luscious passito versions more than justify the designation’s status as the first DOCG white (earned in 1987). Emilia is distinguishing itself in the white category principally in the Colli Piacentini DOC, which particularly favors varietals such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Romagna’s indigenous red specialty is Sangiovese, which, as its fellow Romagnans (Trebbiano and Albana), is also formally known through the di Romagna designation. While outside Sangiovese’s inner circle—namely, the famed Tuscan clones of Brunello, Prugnolo, and Sangioveto—it goes its own way, offering a softer wine that exhibits greater generosity on the palate. This stylistic departure from the classic Tuscan paradigm reflects either the Sangiovese di Romagna clone’s innate nature or the region’s exposure to a more demonstrative maritime climate.

That said, however, the wines falling under this outsider’s provenance represent a rather surprising stylistic range. Those produced in higher elevations tend to reflect their more famous counterparts, while those crafted at relatively lower levels exhibit a plusher character. Fattoria Paradiso’s Sangiovese di Romagna Vigna delle Lepri bottling expresses the more forward-thinking propensity of the latter domain. This orientation is going beyond these parameters, however, as producers gravitate increasingly toward international varieties.

Emilia is also taking up with the international and famous, particularly in the Colli Bolognesi and Colli Piacentini zones. The former is particularly devoted to Cabernet Sauvignon, the bottlings of which tend to exhibit a rather herbal dimension, rendering them particularly accommodating of food. The Colli Piacentini is also demonstrating a particular propensity for Cabernet Sauvignon, yet it is also quite taken with Pinot Nero, a penchant encouraged by the region’s cool breezes, an essential contributing factor to the structure of the wines. In addition to pursuing this international bent, it continues to honor its traditional Barbera-Bonarda (Croatina) blend.

While Emilia-Romagna is finding its way in the international red market, it’s always known its place at the table, which is laden with a host of staples and celebrated specialties. The former are led by a pasta processional, headed up by the region-wide tagliatelle con ragù, whose sauce traditionally bears the mark of the individual cook. Likewise, each subregion celebrates its own shape: Bologna tucks into its gramigna (curly-shaped pasta); Parma seals its reputation on tortelli (large square envelopes); and Ferrara sports cappellacci (big hats), while Reggio dons the smaller cappelletti (little hats).

Coppiette, hard wheat rolls, are another universal basic, while several variations of flatbread proffer regional distinctions. In the specialty category, Emilia’s DOP–protected Prosciutto di Parma reigns supreme on the international circuit—particularly in the States—the most popular testament to the region’s pork-curing expertise (Prosciutto di Modena is also protected under the DOP). Locally, however, Culatello di Zibello, an aged filet of rump, takes the premier position. Salume’s base of operations is Piacenza, where Coppa Piacentina (neck roll), Salame Piacentino, and Pancetta Piacentina (unsmoked bacon) all rate DOP status.

Rivaling the famed stature of Emilia’s Prosciutto di Parma is Parmigiano Reggiano, the acclaimed “King of Cheeses.” Romagna gets in on the cheese action with Formaggio di Fossa. Aceto balsamico tradizionale, balsamic vinegar, is particularly prized, given the intense aging regimen—a minimum of 12 years in barrels of various types—its crafting entails. Desserts, of course, are not forgotten in this region of good and plenty. Of particular note are a few regional specialty cakes—the certosino (spice cake) of Bologna and the torta di mele (apple cake) from Ferrara, served amidst an extensive assortment of pastries and biscuits.