The Wine & Food of Campania
The fundamental roots of all drama rest in the comedies and tragedies of Greek
drama. After all, it was Aristotle who delineated the structural and philosophical
elements comprising the tragedy proper. However, this eminent figure wasn’t
the only one staging the dramatic scene in Ancient Greece. It was believed
that Dionysus (referred to as Bacchus after the fifth century), the
Greek god of wine and vegetation, was reborn each spring. His followers honored
this annual celebration with an extended festival, the form of which
evolved over time, eventually operating in accordance with and reflecting the
structure of the drama itself. Also, the eminent works of the day—penned
by the likes of Sophocles and Euripides—were written to be performed
during the festival.
The Greeks did not merely engender works that celebrated the god of the vine—they
cultivated its fruit, taking its grape ensemble on the road and setting them
up on the Italian islands of Ischia and Capri and thereafter, in the more notable Neapolis (Naples). It’s hard to say when this show closed, but it has
been in a period of revival since the early 1990s. However, it is important
to note that this highly productive time was not staged overnight; rather,
much quiet, behind-the-scenes work authored this rebirth.
These efforts were truly singular, as they constituted a one-winery
production—undertaken by the Mastroberardino family. The family’s
formal efforts at preservation began in the 1960s,
yet this protocol was prefaced by over two centuries
of vineyard acquisition, providing a stellar context for their formal
viticultural project. Antonio Mastroberardino—of
the ninth generation—was the first to pursue the revival of
Campania’s ancient grapes, and both he and his brother, Walter,
are credited with salvaging the Fiano and
Greco varietals.
Recognition of Campania’s inherent quality began to emerge
immediately subsequent to the historic release of Mastroberardino’s
critically acclaimed 1968 Taurasi. As Mastroberardino was the sole
producer of quality Aglianico (Taurasi represents a pure varietal
Aglianico) for several years, it is only in the last several years
that its potential and that of its fellow ancient varietals has been
realized. Aglianico, in fact, has cultivated a notable presence among
wine enthusiasts worldwide, particularly under the Taurasi DOCG, which
is regarded as its foremost expression. Campania also enjoys the enviable
distinction of being home to a significant number of cult wines, many
of which began as “garage” wines (most notably, Silvia
Imparato’s Montevetrano and Fattoria Galardi’s Terre
di Lavoro)—the expression of individual passion. Indeed, such
an admirable orientation defines Campania as a whole.
While Aglianico headlines the red varieties, Piedirosso, with which
it is frequently blended, is acquiring greater recognition; many producers,
in fact, craft single-varietal bottlings of the grape. Casavecchia
and Pallagrello are two of the other recovered varietals, focused
on exclusively by Vestini Campagnano. In general, the reds tend to
be quite powerful in expression, while the whites, in contrast, are
far less demonstrative, yet display an enervating acidity. While many,
like Greco di Tufa and Falanghina, are mild in flavor some, particularly
Fiano, project rather stirring aromatics. All are generally marked
by restraint—lending them a particular affinity with food.
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