The Wine & Food of Abruzzo
Abruzzo’s proximal distance to Rome positions it within easy
reach of the latter’s tourist population. While it doesn’t
enjoy “destination” status given this association, Abruzzo
does appeal to a specialty population—those who seek the thrill
of mountain sports, which are well provided for by the Apennine Range.
Spanning the length of Abruzzo, the Apennines contain the Gran Sasso
massif, which features Italy’s highest peak—Corno Grande.
It is also bordered by Le Marche, Lazio, and
its petite neighbor Molise, which was formerly part of Abruzzo proper.
As the mountains and sea also enjoy a fair degree
of proximity, the combination of their respective
elements, in conjunction with Abruzzo’s
predominantly dry climate, provides for an ideal
viticultural context. The mountains, however, have also effected a
division between Abruzzo and its neighbors, resulting in this region’s
former economic hardships. Thus, while innately disposed to deliver
quality wines, Abruzzo’s wine culture was historically defined
by the cooperative realm. Though bulk wine remains
a significant category, quality productions now
constitute a formidable group in their own right.
While Abruzzo is generally disposed to be particularly beneficent
in the production of wine, various microclimates in its northern region
are regarded as the most conducive to winegrowing.
Abruzzo’s grape constituency is essentially comprised
of one white and one red—Trebbiano and Montepulciano, respectively.
Both take the name of the regional designation
to form Abruzzo’s
most prolific DOCs—Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano
d’Abruzzo.
Many are quite familiar with both, given their
representation in Abruzzo’s
historically undiscriminating turnout. As indicated
above, this orientation has slightly shifted
in recent years, although the innate character
of each grape somewhat supports mass production
efforts.
Trebbiano is Italy’s most
ubiquitous white varietal—and
the staple of the quintessential Italian white,
turning out the same performance regardless of
where it is grown. Abruzzese producers have taken
to blending it with more demonstrative varietals,
particularly Chardonnay. As for Montepulciano,
it essentially offers the antithesis of its regional
counterpart, delivering a profile comprised of
generous black fruits, low acidity, and sweet
tannins. This ample provision has enabled producers
to turn out decent bottlings in fairly significant
quantities. In recent years, however, producers
have sought to maximize Montepulciano’s
rich core of black and purple fruits through
aging in barrique and
rigorous processes of selection, producing concentrated
offerings. This has been reinforced through the
designation of additional appellations, namely,
the Colline Teramane DOCG and the Controguerra
DOC, which serve to differentiate Montepulcianos
derived from the north and south, respectively.
Some producers have always performed far above
the mainstream—demonstrating
the remarkable inherent potential not only of
Montepulciano, but of the lowly Trebbiano as well. In fact, the work of Abruzzo’s
foremost practitioners—the late Edoardo Valentini and Emidio
Pepe—has enabled the wines derived from these grapes to share
the company of Italy’s most esteemed natives. Moreover, it
is said that Valentini worked with a distinct clone of Trebbiano,
a grape “in the rough” that projects
a more forward character than that delivered
by the main representative.
The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC also provides for a rosé version— Cerasuolo—one
that achieves a far more demonstrative profile
than most rosati. In
Abruzzo, Cerasuolo is shown to particular effect
when matched with regional specialties such as maccheroni alla chitarra (guitar-style
pasta) in a tomato-peperoncino sauce and polpi in purgatorio (octopus
with oil, garlic, tomato, and red pepper). The
unassuming Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, be it ever so simple, provides
just the thing for seafood. While much is proffered
by the Adriatic in support of this pairing, the Abruzzese seem to favor the
provisions of the land.
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Regional Information
Capital City: L'Aquila
Provinces: 4
Surface: 4,167 sq miles
Population: 1,305,307
Density: 46/sq mile
Grapes
White Grapes:
Trebbiano
Red Grapes:
Montepulciano
Barbera
Sangiovese
Food
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Aprutino Pescarese
Colline Teatine
Pretuziano delle Colline
Teramane
Salumi
Salamini Iitaliani alla
Cacciatora
Vitellone Bianco
dell'Appennino
Centrale
Other Regional Specialties
Mortadella
Salsiccia di Fegato
Scamorza
Recipes
Abbacchio al Diavolo
Pollo Canzanese
Bucatini all'Amatriciana
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