December 12, 2008
Sportoletti, Cerbaiona & Clerico: Big Reds for the Holiday
In This Issue
A Note
from Sergio
There’s a reason why so much holiday
music seems frantic; it’s because the
holidays are hectic, and the music reflects
that frenzy. If your calendar between
Thanksgiving and January 2 looks anything
like mine, you never know quite where
you’re going, what you’re doing
or who might pop over for a visit. It’s
hard to plan ahead with all that to-ing and
fro-ing, all those parties, all the gifts and
all the people you want to make merry.
The unexpected nature of the holiday season
has a natural complement in the wide variety
of Italian wines. When you have a stock of
wines on hand, you can pop open a robust
Super-Tuscan for your friend who surprises
you for dinner, you can bring your old boss a
lovely Barolo at the corporate party, or you
can simply select a special bottle of Amarone
to enjoy with a special someone when you're
having a quiet celebration at home.
This week, I’m delighted to offer you
an array of wines that range from Piemonte to
Umbria, in a range of styles from immediate
drinkable to indisputably age-worthy. No
matter where you go, whom you see, or what
you toast when you get there, we at IWM want
you to be prepared to enjoy it!
My Best,
Sergio
For more accounts of Italian wine, food, and life reserve
my new book:
Passion
on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart
of Italy.
Sportoletti: Umbria's Great Value
Near a knot of medieval towns in the central
region of Umbria, about 55 miles north of Rome,
Sportoletti estate rests in the hills of
Assisi. The Sportoletti
family acquired intimate knowledge of the
land through decades of farming, and this
knowledge
afforded them a smooth transition into
winemaking. At
present, the business is run by Ernesto and
Remo Sportoletti, who have built it into one
of the region’s most respected wineries;
they are notably aided by Riccardo Cotarella, who
joined the team in the mid-1990s. The
richness of the estate’ soil in
conjunction with innovative
methods of production give Sportoletti’s
wines their unique identity and make them
among the best expressions of Umbrian
winemaking.
Sportoletti
2004 Villa
Fidelia…$39.99
Serving as the flagship of the Sportoletti
estate, this wine interprets the traditional
Bordeaux blend via Umbrian terroir.
Full bodied with fine-grained tannins, it
exudes dark fruit aromas on the nose that are
accented by notes of chocolate and roasted
espresso.
Sportoletti
2006 Assisi
Rosso…$17.99
The Assisi Rosso is a classic blend of 50%
Sangiovese, 30% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet
from estate-owned vineyards around the hills
of Assisi, in the region of Umbria. This wine
offers aromatics of strawberry and wild red
berries, as an earthy profile emerges
suggesting tar and resin. Pairing this Rosso with
gastronomic traditions of Umbria is
ideal—we suggest roasted game perfumed
with herbs or
porchetta.
Italy’s Indigenous Red Varietals
 The estate was established with the 1981
vintage by former pilot Diego Molinari, and
from 1982 onwards Cerbaiona has performed
flawlessly. Like Poggio di Sotto, Cerbaiona
basks in a cult following, and its ratings
are comparative to Soldera’s
Case Basse. Only a tiny portion of
the 35 hectare estate is planted with
vines, and at an altitude of 900 feet, the
fruit benefits from higher acid levels found
in northern fruit. Cerbaiona’s grapes
also gain balanced sugar concentration levels
thanks to being
bathed in sunlight, as is customary with the
southern
Montalcino vineyards. Eschewing the use of
insecticides or fungicides, the
“Commander,”
as this
former pilot is known, creates a consistent
style of pure elegance backed with power.
Cerbaiona
2005 Rosso di
Montalcino…$44.99
Molinari’s Rosso is absolutely one
of the
best values in its class. Think of this Rosso
as an introduction to the quality found in
Cerbaiona’s acclaimed Brunello. It
throws a complex
nose while showcasing dark cherry and red
currant.
Over the palate, it shows a juicy side, that
is accented by subtle floral suggestions, and
underlain by a crisp snap of acidity. This
Rosso is clean, with a
finely delineated profile and just the right
touch of tannic grip. Ideally, is should be
paired with
grilled steak or gamy fowl like guinea hen
or duck.
Cerbaiona
2005 Cerbaiona
Rosso…$44.99
Produced from fruit sourced on his Montalcino
estate, the Cerbaiona Rosso is
Molinari’s take
on a Super-Tuscan. This bright
spark of ruby red features a blend of 60%
Sangiovese while the remaining 40% consists
of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and
Malvasia Nera. The nose emits aromatics
reminiscent of red flowers, raspberries and
anise. Clean, fresh tannins coupled with a
long finish make this wine an undeniable
pleasure. It’s a perfect companion for
aged cheeses and
grilled red meats.
Clerico Barolo 2004
 A steadfast adherent of change and
evolution, Domenico Clerico is one of
Barolo’s foremost producers. Having
commenced production in 1979 on a small
estate situated in Monteforte d’Alba
right in the heart of Barolo, Clerico has made
a study in the dynamic fluidity of
wine-making. His story can only be told
properly by underscoring his core philosophy
that believes that the quality of the vines is
the sole factor in determining a
wine’s potential. The roots of this
ethos is illustrated by a sign that
directs vintners to his cellar
door—Domenico Clerico,
Viticoltore—Domenico Clerico,
Vinegrower. So, while Clerico is often
positioned in Piemonte’s modernist
school (along with Sandrone and Scavino), his
belief in the primacy of the vine suggest
that he may no longer warrant such an
absolute classification.
For Clerico, shifting stylistic spectrums
often included modifications to maceration
protocol and adaptations to vessels used
for maturation. Gradually, he’s been
working out maceration length, extending the
duration periods. For instance, in 1993
Clerico’s maceration periods ranged
from 5-8 days, but by 2006 that period
averaged 18 days. His changes throughout
the years also involved adjusting his use of
barrique. Constantly probing for the ideal
aesthetic while also
maintaining a pragmatic outlook, Clerico
moderated his use of new barrels, which now
constitute between 35 and 40 percent of
his cooperage. This endlessly dynamic process
illustrates how Clerico’s production
techniques are a solid match to his
tenacious efforts in the vineyard.
Clerico’s relentless pursuit of
quality is constituent with what he
describes as the “marriage between the
vineyard and the cellar.” Clerico
believes that “change is the son of the
union between innovation and
tradition—our constant teachers in
helping us understand the truest expression
of Nebbiolo.” All the work that goes
into interpreting Nebbiolo and all
Clerico’s
undertakings have lead him down a path where
an open-minded approach has resulted in his
crafting more territorially expressive wines.
Illustrative of Clerico’s commitment to
excellence, the 2004 vintage in Piemonte
is a great one and early reports confirm this
estate’s superiority. The initial buzz
overheard in 2004 predicted the very emotions
critics and connoisseurs alike are describing
today. The Clerico estate realized the
balance first shown at harvest time, next during
the first maceration period, and then
during maturation as the wines were gradually
tasted and were found to be consistently
structured but fresh, with tannins of great
length and elegance.
Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin
Ginestra
With roughly 1,500 cases made, this cru
Monforte from Ginestra, one of
Barolo’s most celebrated vineyards, is
stunning. The 2003 and 2004 vintages are an
exercise in differences, placing the super-hot,
ripe vintage of ’03 in glaring contrast to
the more classically structured ’04.
Because of Clerico’s underlying ethos
of adaptation and innovation, he
would seem the contender best
suited for the challenges of ’03.
While Clerico has lengthened maceration
periods, he significantly reduced his
’03 Barolo macerations in order to
avoid increasing the high tannin levels that
the grapes reached during the ripening
stage. This sensitivity to a ripe vintage
illustrates how Clerico modifies his
approach, interpreting an expression to
stay in tune with the vintage. The ’03
is remarkably intricate and promises a
prodigious aging period. Meanwhile, the
04’s
focused aromatics and manifold layers of
fruit are profound. It’s already
showing depth and complexity and should be
cellared now until at least 2012 to show more
of its unquestionably stunning potential.
Clerico
2004 Barolo Ciabot Mentin
Ginestra…$105.99**
Clerico
2004 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra
(1.5L)…$225.00**
Clerico
2003 Barolo Ciabot Mentin
Ginestra…$92.99
Clerico Barolo Pajana
The cru Monforte Pajana is another
single-vineyard expression known for being
reticent on the nose, yet generous on the
palate. Due to Clerico’s astute
handling of the vintage’s nature, the
’03 demonstrates its unity and
is one of the few ’03s approachable today.
The ’04 boasts expansive fruit
aromatics and a
powerfully slick display of bold, dark
fruits. The south-facing slopes benefit from
an intense solar exposure that results in a more
fruit-driven style. Case production hovers
around 830. Indisputably this is another
knockout from 2004 you don’t want to
miss.
Clerico
2004 Barolo Pajana…$94.99**
Clerico
2003 Barolo Pajana…$92.99
Wine Style Exploration Sampler
IWM Gift Cards
Looking for the perfect gift? The IWM gift
card is an ideal gift solution for the
budding wine enthusiast or the seasoned
collector. What better way to give more? Give and IWM
Gift Card and you will give the recipient freedom to select from
IWM's extensive portfolio of wines,
accessories and books, and to create an ideal
experience. The card is presented in a gift box with a
personalized card—a thoughtful gift that
makes a lasting impression.
Click to purchase a gift card.
December Tasting Events
A
Taste of Super-Tuscans, Brunello, &
Barolo
Saturday, December 20, 2008 1:00-3:00 P.M. $65.00
A Taste of Celebratory Sparklers
Saturday, December 27, 2008 1:00-3:00
P.M. $50.00
To learn more about IWM’s Studio Regionale
Saturday Tasting Series, or to make
a reservation over the phone, contact Maryellen
Philipps at 212.473.2323, x129.
.
News from Italy
For Italian wine followers wanting to stay in
the know, we’ve launched a Daily
Wine News section that dials you into the
latest news, trends, innovations, and
often bold new projects of our producer
friends in Italy. It’s a window into the
past, present, and future of all things
Italian wine. Written from a local perspective,
these articles offer a daily dose of snippets
from the world of Italian food and
wine that we think you will enjoy.
2008 Holiday Catalog
We’re not returning to the same holiday terroir that you’re accustomed to. Rather, we’re going to show you the finest of IWM–our classic wine offerings featuring significant producers and programs that have redefined the wine-tasting genre. Our working philosophy at IWM continues to evolve even as it retains Sergio’s pre-eminent challenge to present to our clients "Italian wines as they’ve never been presented before." With our robust on-line wine shop, interactive Cellar Management and exclusive events suite, we’re working to surprise you, our IWM clients, with the very best wines–better, faster, and more easily than ever before.
Holiday
Catalogue/Downloadable PDF
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