November 15, 2008
Traditionalists: Stanislao Radikon & Giuseppe Rinaldi
In This Issue
A Note
from Sergio
I know it’s a word much worn from
overuse in the past twenty-two months, but
it’s one that I can’t avoid when
discussing the two producers we’re
featuring this week, Stanko Radikon and
Giuseppe Rinaldi. These men may be ardent
traditionalists, indisputable iconoclasts,
arbiters of style, and makers of wine that
inspires a cultish devotion, but what they
are above all is mavericks.
The word "maverick" comes from
nineteenth-century rancher Samuel Maverick
who flew in the face of convention and
decided not to brand his cattle. Unbranded
cattle were hence called
"mavericks," and the word has come
to mean anyone who staunchly resists
following the madding herd and adheres
instead to a staunch independence. This idea
encapsulates Radikon and Rinaldi, two wine
producers who have devoted themselves to
bucking trends and blazing new trails.
Ironically, they bucked and they blazed not
through finding new ways to make wines but
through rediscovering old ways, embracing
tradition, and committing themselves to
producing natural wines that speak loudly and
clearly of their terroir. Their terroir and
their traditions, however, are radically
different. Radikon produces a variety of
enthralling wines in Friuli and employs an
assertively organic approach to his grape
cultivation and wine production;
Piemonte’s Rinaldi makes one
wine—Barolo—he makes it much in
the style of his distant forbears, and he
makes it gloriously.
As divergent as these two men are, they
converge on a handful of essential points.
Both were disciples of great
winemakers—Rinaldi is descended from
the late, great Bartolo Mascarello, and
Radikon was Josko Gravner's most talented
pupil, though that relationship has faded.
Both men show a passionate devotion to their
respective geographic locales, and both have
earned an equally passionate following
because of it. The names of both men bring a
knowing smile to the faces of the few people
lucky enough to drink their wines, for both
men produce extraordinarily low numbers
every vintage. And both men have steadfastly
chosen to make wines in their own, highly
individualistic ways. You have to respect
that.
Regardless of whether you opt for one of
Rinaldi’s exquisite Barolos or any one
of Radikon’s breathtaking wines,
you’re getting a glass brimming with
tradition, skill and excellence. It’s
something that any, uh, independent-minded
person can raise a glass to.
My Best,
Sergio
For more accounts of Italian wine, food, and life reserve
my new book:
Passion
on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart
of Italy.
Stanislao Radikon: Producer of Italy's Most Controversial White
 Stanislao Radikon
One of Italy’s most eccentric
producers continues his controversial ways of
going against the grain of conventional
thought. Many producers will say, “You
can’t make a wine without sulfites or
it will fall apart,” but Stanislao
(Stanko) Radikon disagrees. His fierce
adherence to traditional ways coupled with
his determined experimentation flips the
script on modern wine-making.
Pursuing an ideal taste from the memory and
methods of his grandfather’s wine from
the 1930s, Radikon employs a deceptively
simple philosophy: to produce wines that are
wholly natural. His practices have given him
a cult of personality status with followers
who dubbed him a “maverick” and
a “radical,” and called his
wines “wild” and
“unconventional.” His methodology
and wine production result from a set of
guiding principles, a seemingly
forward-thinking framework deeply rooted in
traditional techniques. Radikon’s
methods reflect the style typical of the
Collio area, the heartland of Friuli, with
the use of large oak barrels (botti),
manual harvesting, and extended maceration
periods. He both actively encourages and
stands alone in this highly unusual white
wine-making practice of a 40–60 day
maceration session. Such long durations are
atypical even for red wine-making, for most
everyday reds see a more rapid process of a
week’s maceration. It’s
Radikon’s hewing to an exacting
traditional manner that lodges him firmly
within the winemaking vanguard.
Radikon’s individualistic approach is
also best known by what it
rejects—namely, chemical pesticides
and temperature-controlled fermentation. And
beginning in 2002, Radikon began eliminating
sulfur dioxide (SO2). For these
reasons the
grape and the grape alone takes center
stage. Radikon’s viticultural practices
include dense planting and an intensive
pruning regimen, efforts that he maximizes by
a rigorous process of selection. All Radikon
wines are essentially vinified in accordance
with the same noninterventionist protocol.
Radikon
2003 Oslavje (1.0L)…$92.75
The 2003 is a blend of Chardonnay (40%),
Pinot Grigio (30%), and Sauvignon (30%). The
amber hue shouldn’t alarm but instead
signals a very stripped down, untouched
style. This wine’s snapshot reads
earth, tar, and whiff of smoke supported by a
silky texture thanks to the extended period
of contact on the skins, and the finish is
pleasingly long. As with the wines of
Gravner, we decant this wine and serve at
cellar temperature in large Bordeaux/Brunello
wine glasses to allow oxygen to more easily
expose the full range of aromatics.
Radikon
2003 Ribolla Gialla
(1.0L)…$92.75
An indigenous white varietal from Friuli,
Ribolla Giallo’s importance lies in its
structure and ability to age. Sergio
recently tasted Ribollas dating as far back
as the 1950s—a testament to the grape.
Radikon’s Ribolla Giallo unfolds
alluring aromatics of layered orange peel and
mature stone fruits. This white possesses an
outsized structure and gripping tannins that
belie its color classification. These
attributes arise precisely from his vinifying
approach—the 40 to 60 day skin contact
and several years of cask aging-production
methods that promote red wine characteristics.
Like the Oslavje, the amber hue heralds
Radikon’s unflagging philosophy of
naturalist winemaking. We serve this wine
similar to those of Gravner, by decanting and
serving at room temperature.
Radikon
2000 Merlot (1.0L)…$199.00
The 2000 Merlot reveals an integrated
maturity where the dried leaves, cherries,
plum, tobacco, flowers, and licorice flavors
are reaching full development in bottle.
Animal, vegetable, and mineral best describe
the wine’s attributes, and these broad
tastes evoke the place and its stony soil.
The overall vinification saw five years in
French barrels with remaining aging in
bottle. While many producers are releasing
their 2005 Merlots (Masseto, Redigaffi,
Messorio), Radikon's current release is his
2000.
Also Available:
Radikon
2001 Ribolla Gialla
(750ml)…$59.13
Radikon
2001 Oslavje (750ml)…$52.13
‡ Free Delivery in Manhattan
Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo: The Barolo Sleeper
Giuseppe Rinaldi
We often discuss and reference the pillars
of Piemontese tradition—Giacomo
Conterno, Bartolo Mascarello, and Bruno
Giacosa. And if you read our e-letter,
you’ve come to know these producers
intimately. Another producer that educated
collectors place in the same elite coterie
is Giuseppe Rinaldi. Sure, you’ve heard
the name in certain circles, too, but have
you found the bottles? More than likely, you
haven’t—only a handful of the
estate’s limited-production cult
Barolos arrive in the US. The principal
share of Rinaldi’s wine is literally
picked up at the cellar door by private
collectors during visits to the Enoteca
Regionale del Barolo, which his father
helped establish. Collectors’ avid
devotion is inspired by Rinaldi’s
uncompromising, strict adherence to
traditional techniques and philosophies and
the caliber of the historic sites in which he
cultivates his Nebbiolo.
While Bartolo Mascarello is often crowned
the “Last of the Mohicans,” his
spirit prevails through the work of his
cousin Giuseppe Rinaldi. In fact, not only
are Mascarello and Rinaldi connected by
viticultural philosophy and an aversion to
innovation (whether phones or
rotofermentors), they share some of the same
historic vineyards. As the Romanée vineyards
are to Burgundy, so are the Cannubi
vineyards to Barolo. Sure, Rinaldi could
release a cru Cannubi or Brunate and
increase the cost per bottle. Instead, he
does something unique blending these Barolo
“grand” crus together, and
featuring their historic names on the label.
Rinaldi adheres to what he terms "real
tradition," and both of his Barolos,
Brunate-Le Coste and Cannubi San
Lorenzo-Ravera are blends, which enables the
distinct
features of selective sites to complement
one another. He remains fiercely traditional,
adhering to the standards his father, the
great Giovanni Battista Rinaldi, and cousin
Mascarello established. “I don’t
believe that a great cru can always perform
well, they are subject to drought and loss of
acidity,” he observes, acknowledging
his own uncompromising standards.
Giuseppe
Rinaldi 2004 Barolo Brunate-Le
Coste…$106.99
Giuseppe’s father, Battista, crafted
the legendary 1974 Brunate, a cru riserva,
and in 1993, Beppe decided to add Brunate's
name to a cuvee. Typically regarded as the
more masculine of Rinaldi’s Barolos,
Brunate-Le Coste derives that power from the
Brunate cru, which also signifies its
presence in the wine’s complex and
intricate expression. The raw strength of
Brunate’s force is disciplined and
shaped by the more subdued temperament of Le
Coste, enabling the wine to suggestively
delineate, if not reveal, layers of dark
fruit. In ’04, the wine’s
signature balsamic perfume is arresting, a
dimension that embellishes upon itself with
time in the glass, feeding off its rare
showing, utterly consumed by its own
allure.
For now, this riveting exposition owns the
wine, but Brunate-Le Coste is just getting
started on a two-decade evolutionary course.
Moreover, while Rinaldi may want the wine to
be prohibitively tannic, austere, and
fruit-deprived upon release, nature has
imposed itself in recent years, endowing his
wines with an undeniable depth. Case
production hovers around 800 cases.
Giuseppe
Rinaldi 2004 Barolo Cannubi San
Lorenzo-Ravera …$106.99
While Cannubi San Lorenzo-Ravera is regarded as
Rinaldi’s feminine Barolo, in 2004 it
seems to be seriously exploring its more
masculine side, exhibiting, as it does, an
atypical concentration and a formidable
framework. Thus, while Cannubi’s
contribution derives specifically from San
Lorenzo, a portion of the cru noted for
imparting aromatic distinction to a blend,
in this vintage that perfume is particularly
intense and prolific. Ravera signifies its
contribution in a robust tannic constitution
that matches the heightened aromatic profile.
As with Brunate-Le Coste, the depth of the
wine’s fruit is more apparent than
Rinaldi would probably care to acknowledge.
But it’s there, subtly intimated by
what the wine reveals over the course of
several hours’ aeration. With a minute
production level of about 300 cases,
it’s no wonder the collectors gather at
the cellar door.
Also Available
Giuseppe
Rinaldi 2004 Barolo Cannubi San
Lorenzo-Ravera
(1.5L)…$229.00
Knicks & ESPN at IWM: Danilo Gallinari in the Vintage Room
New York Knicks Forward Danilo Gallinari sits
down with LZ Granderson, senior writer of
ESPN: The Magazine for a tasting in
Italian Wine Merchants' Vintage Room. While
the focus of the discussion was on
Gallinari's career, he also takes time to
discuss wine, food, and Italian culture.
Italian Wine Merchants' Showroom, Studio del
Gusto and Salumeria were showcased. To view
the video at length click
here.
Italian Wine Merchants’ Vintage Tasting
Room is the perfect setting for smaller
meet-ups. To
schedule an event, please contact Caroline
Mirschel at 212.473.2323, x109.
November Tasting Events
Tastings to Consider for Early-Fall
A Taste of Thanksgiving Wines
Saturday, November 15, 1:00-3:00 p.m.,
$65.00
A Taste of Italy's Rising Stars
Saturday, November 22, 1:00-3:00 p.m.,
$65.00
Special Event: White Truffles & Vintage
Barolo
Monday, November 24, 7:00 p.m.
$595.00
To learn more about IWM’s Studio Regionale
Saturday Tasting Series, or to make
a reservation over the phone, contact Maryellen
Philipps at 212.473.2323, x129.
For more information on the White
Truffles & Vintage
Barolo Event, please contact Caroline
Mirschel at 212.473.2323, x 109.
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