August 14, 2008
Antinori 2005 Tignanello, Iconic Super-Tuscans & More
In This Issue
A Note
from Sergio
Two weeks ago, I was in Italy. Last week, I
was in Miami. This week I’m in Hong
Kong. Next week I’m somewhere else.
I’ve been getting to know the inside
of my suitcase with a kind of intimacy I like
to reserve for my family, and I’ve
been experiencing the interiors of
international airports with the frequency
that I like to experience in my living room.
Racking up the frequent-flier miles, living
on food prepared by the hands of strangers,
sleeping in unfamiliar beds, I’ve had a
lot of time to reflect on why I’m
living this peripatetic lifestyle, and it all
comes down to my unshakable belief in Italian
wine. I recognize the whiff of the zealot
that wafts around my commitment to the
fundamentals of my business and my
life—that Italian wine embodies the
profound beauty of human relationships to
each other, to this planet, and to
history—and I’m ok with it.
More than being ok with my messianic
fervor, I want to share the love. This love
provides the foundation for everything we do
at Italian Wine Merchants. Whether it’s
educating people about what makes Italian
wine special, showing them how to put wine
with food to create a peak experience, or
helping them build a wine cellar that will
bring them joy on a basis that’s daily,
weekly, yearly, and longer, we’re
sharing our love.
My business and my life are predicated on
the inalienable idea that wine isn’t
just for special occasions, yet all wine is
not created equal—and this inequity is
a good thing because it offers infinite
choices. Sure, there are the iconic wines like
Antinori’s Tignanello and Guado al
Tasso, but there are also artisanal finds
like Galardi or San Giusto a Rentennano.
There are myriad wine
varietals—Nebbiolo, Aglianico and
Sangiovese may be majestic grapes, but there
are over 2,000 varietals in Italy that offer
an unbelievable range of flavor. Similarly,
there are wines that are every day wines,
wines for celebrations, wines for special
occasions, wines to impress, and wines for
once-in-a-lifetime events. Unequal
doesn’t mean bad; it just means
different, and I embrace difference.
When we educate people about wine, or when
we help people assemble their wine cellars,
or even when we help them pick out a bottle
for dinner, we think about these things.
I see Italian wine as a great, big
beautiful world, and as I travel this great,
big beautiful world, I realize exactly how
true that metaphor is. Here’s to your
enjoying a bottle of Italian
wine—whether you’re at home or
abroad.
My Best,
Sergio
For more accounts of Italian wine, food, and life reserve
my new book:
Passion
on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart
of Italy.
New: Antinori 2005 Tignanello
The Making of a Vintage
(Sangiovese, Cabernets Sauvignon &
Franc)
In many ways, Piero Antinori’s
Tignanello represents the very best of the
Super-Tuscan movement: a commitment to
honoring traditional methods of winemaking
combined with a desire to innovate when
innovation creates a better wine. Grown in
the Chianti Classico zone, and comprised
primarily of Sangiovese (85%) and small parts
Cabernets Sauvignon (10%) and Franc (5%),
the Super-Tuscan Tignanello tends to the more
Tuscan end of the spectrum, even if it and
its maker are pretty much synonymous with the
Super-Tuscan movement. Just as the Antinori
estate has done for 26 generations, the
grapes used to make Tignanello are hand
harvested and processed with the utmost care.
Ever since Tignanello’s inaugural
vintage in 1971, Antinori has restricted his
production of Tignanello to only the best
vintages, and his vinification techniques
have included malolactic fermentation, aging
in barrique for one year, followed by an
additional year of aging in bottle. However,
in 2004 Antinori made a change to the
regimen; he began fermenting and aging the
component wines separately, assembling the
wine just before aging in bottle.
This last change certainly made an impact in
the much-heralded 2004 vintage of
Tignanello, but its impact will be even more
apparent in the newly released 2005.
Unlike 2004, which had more or less ideal
growing conditions, 2005 presented climatic
challenges; the season started several weeks
earlier with temperatures that were slightly
warmer than previous vintages, and ended
after heavy rains just before harvest, thus
delaying it. While many lesser producers are
feeling the after effects of the
less-than-stellar conditions of 2005,
Antinori is not. In fact, the 2005
illustrates that it’s the
winemaker—not the weather—that
makes a wine. 2004’s Tignanello may be
the stuff of which legends are made, but the
2005 Tignanello is aromatic, approachable,
and exceptional. Though it could drink for
another ten-to-fifteen years, this Tignanello
has the ripe dark fruits, smoky overtones,
and piquant minerality to induce you to enjoy
it right now.
** Indicates prearrival
‡ Free Delivery in Manhattan
Guado al Tasso & Solaia
Limited Offerings
and Late Vintages
Guado al Tasso
Representing yet another highly exclusive IWM
offering, covering the career of
Guado al Tasso—the flagship of
Antinori's Bolgheri estate—from the
1995 vintage to the current release.
Viticultural genius truly seems to run in the
Antinori and della Rocchetta families. Their
Bolgheri triptych—Tenuta San Guido
(Sassicaia: Mario Incisa della Rocchetta);
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia (Ornellaia &
Masseto: Lodovico Antinori); and Guado al
Tasso (Guado al Tasso: Piero
Antinori)—makes a powerful evocation of
a wine dynasty. While Piero was technically
the last of the family to enter
Bolgheri’s Maremma, Guado al Tasso
formally established his claim to the Maremma
when he inherited the estate from his mother,
Carlotta della Gherardesca Antinori, whose
family had a long-standing presence in the
region. It is also significant to note that
Sassicaia, the premiere Super-Tuscan,
effectually served as the philosophical
foundation of Antinori’s Tignanello,
for brothers Piero and Lodovico (prior to
their split in 1985) had sent Giacomo Tachis
to direct the vinification of Sassicaia.
Their experience directly informed
Tignanello’s idea and validated the
application of the Bordeaux model to Italian
wine.
The portfolio of Guado al Tasso, meaning
Badger’s Ford, includes Scalabrone, a
Sangiovese-Merlot-Syrah blend; a
pure-varietal Vermentino; and the eponymous
flagship, Guado al Tasso, a
Cabernet-Merlot-Syrah blend. The
’03 vinification of Guado al Tasso
(70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 15%
Syrah) reflects an incisive accommodation of
the vintage’s character, and it enables
the wine to provide a genuine articulation of
the region and its varietal constituents.
The palate delivers substantive cherry fruit,
enriched by secondary notes of coffee and
dark chocolate. The structure is attuned to
the wine’s flavor profile, ensuring a
balanced and complex expression.
Solaia
Solaia represents Giacomo Tachis’s
creative engagement with Piero Antinori.
While its fellow portfolio member,
Tignanello, may have introduced the
eponymous estate, Solaia has never been in
the shadows of its predecessor. Its
initial appearance (1978) enjoyed only
limited release in its native land, and the
original composition—80% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc—was
replicated in the ’79. In subsequent
vintages, however, Franc’s
contribution was reduced, and
’82’s introduction of Sangiovese
(20%) essentially rendered Solaia the
inverse of Tignanello. After a series of
slight alterations reflecting the nuances of
individual vintages, Solaia’s identity
emerged as today’s current
blend—75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20%
Sangiovese, and 5% Cabernet Franc.
Like the Tignanello, Solaia is derived
exclusively from its namesake vineyard,
Solaia—meaning sunny
one—a 10-hectare, southwest-facing
site that is comprised principally of marl
soils and albarese rock. It is produced
exclusively in vintages of high caliber.
‡ Free Delivery in Manhattan
Super-Tuscan Icons
Exploring Toscana's Vino Rivalry
This legendary sampler honors some of the
leading innovators of the Super-Tuscan
movement, and it explores some of the newer
upstarts who are carrying on the Super-Tuscan
tradition of innovation and reinterpretation.
For a long while, Mario Incisa della
Rocchetta’s Tenuta San Guido was a
one-wine estate—and for good reason. In
recent years, however, Tenuta San Guido has
branched out a bit in creating a second
label, Guidalberto, an IWM favorite since its
2000 debut. Very closely modeled on Tenuta
San Guido’s Sassicaia, the 2006
Guidalberto is giving its premiere
performance as a Cabernet
Sauvignon-Merlot blend; you’ll
notice the resemblance in the wine’s
polished intensity. From the estate of della
Rochetta’s cousin, Lodovico Antinori's
Ornellaia, has a second label of its own, and
we’ve included it here to provide you
with a taste of two related, if divergent,
houses. To complete the dynasty of the
Antinori and della Rocchetta families, we're
also featuring the flagship of Piero
Antinori’s Bolgheri estate, Guado al
Tasso. Representing the upstarts, first up is
Camartina, and you’d have a hard time
finding another Super-Tuscan that delivers on
Camartina’s level for value. Fellow
artisanal, biodynamic production Sammarco is
another must-drink—it’s a power
Cabernet that would be completely in its
element in a roomful of California
Cabernets. Finally the ’99 Flaccianello
is currently exhibiting a mature
sensibility, and it begs to be enjoyed right
now. Whether you’re new to the
Super-Tuscan sensation, or you’re
curious where the movement has
taken us forty years down the road, you’ll
find wines to savor, treasure and share in
this collection.
Super-Tuscan Icons Sampler (includes one of each
from the
below):
Tenuta
San Guido 2006 Guidalberto…$49.50
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot)
Tenuta
dell'Ornellaia 2005 Le Serre Nuove…$62.70
(Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot)
Castello
dei Rampolla 2003 Sammarco…$109.00
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese)
Antinori
2000 Guado al Tasso…$99.98
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah)
Fontodi
1999 Flaccianello della Pieve…$99.99
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah)
Querciabella
1999 Camartina…$73.67
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese)
** Indicates Prearrival
‡ Free Delivery in Manhattan
Approaching Toscana
From Bolgheri to
Montalcino
If the Antinori triptych exemplifies the
region’s winemaking traditions, this
Tuscan collection invites you to sample its
terroirs and its appellations. We’re
offering a value-oriented sampler of
standout expressions that are approachable
from all angles. If reading this e-Letter has
you wanting to get in on the Super-Tuscan
action, La Mozza’s Aragone will give
you an idea of what was so revelational about the
Super-Tuscan revolution. Le
Macchiole’s Rosso will perform a
similar service, plunging you into its
progressively Sangiovese blend. Do you seek
perfection? It doesn’t get better than
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia’s Le Volte;
despite its privileged pedigree, it’s
one of the most reliable values in the
Super-Tuscan class.
After you drink the ’01 Brunello from a
master of the
form—Talenti—you’ll want
to enjoy a wine that continues your Tuscan
education. Sangiovese is always a welcome
pour for the table, and the ever-popular
Cacchiano flirts with the plummy Merlot for a
satisfying spin on Chianti, while the La
Sala, though modern in style, unabashedly
embraces the Sangiovese in all its
full-throttle glory. So if the featured
Super-Tuscans are a little past your reach
at the moment, go beyond the uproar and
drink in all that makes Toscana truly
super.
Approaching Toscana
Sampler (includes one of each
from the
below):
Tenuta
dell’Ornellaia 2006 Le
Volte…$30.81
(Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon)
La
Sala 2006 Chianti
Classico…$24.75
(Sangiovese)
La
Mozza 2005 Aragone…$42.90
(Morellino, Alicante, Syrah, Carignan)
Le Macchiole 2002 Rosso…$29.70
(Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah)
Castello
di Cacchiano 2001 Chianti Classico
Riserva…$25.50
(Sangiovese, Merlot)
Talenti
2001 Brunello di Montalcino…$63.25
(Sangiovese Grosso)
** Indicates Prearrival
‡ Free Delivery in Manhattan
Wine Collecting Services: DRC to Domaine Leflaive
A New Installment for
IWM's Collecting Services Members
IWM SPECIAL OFFERS
A new feature available to collectors
is our Special
Daily Offers that features extraordinary
selections from blue-chip
Bordeaux to
vintage white Burgundy.
Last week, we presented
the 2005 releases from the renowned Domaine
de la
Romanée-Conti estate, which we have included
below in the company of France’s Domaine
Leflaive. If
you
would like to
receive these offers on a regular basis or
view a
complimentary online demo of our wine collecting
software, please send a request to our Cellar
Specialists.
Domaine Leflaive 1996 Mixed
Case
Le Montrachet produces some of the greatest
Chardonnay in the world, due its limestone
soils and mostly southeast exposition.
Chevalier-Montrachet, consequently, has
increased in value by over
400+% in the past seven
years, with typically just a little more than
100 cases being imported into the U.S. annually.
Featured
are several of Domaine Leflaive’s Grand
Crus
from the exceptional ’96 vintage. While
the fruit produced in ’96 was extremely
ripe, the wine manages to maintain grace and
structure. With proper cellaring, these
wines can be enjoyed in the next
five-to-seven years.
Domaine Leflaive 1996 Chevalier-Montrachet (6
Bottles)
Domaine Leflaive 1996 Batard-Montrachet (6
Bottles)
Domaine
Romanée-Conti 2005:
Assorted Case(Original Wood Case [OWC])
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Romanée-Conti
(1 bottle)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 La Tâche (3
bottles)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Richebourg (2
bottles)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Romanée-St-
Vivant (2 bottles)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Echézeaux (2
bottles)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Grands-
Echézeaux (2 bottles)
IWM Wine Tastings
View all of IWM's Upcoming Events.
First Annual
IWM Wine Club Events
Saturday, August 16, 23 & 30
2008 1:00–3:00 p.m.
IWM is
hosting three private wine tastings. These
exclusive
events will highlight the outstanding
wine
selections from the past year in the Exploration,
Big
Wines, Sergio's
Cellar,
and Balanced
Cellar
Wine Clubs. If you would
like to sign up for the IWM Wine Club and
attend one of these events, please contact
the Wine Club Manager at 212.473.2323, x132 or
wineclub@italianwinemerchant.com.
These events
are for the official recipients of
an IWM Wine
Club membership (September 1, 2007
to August 30, 2008). Members are
allowed to sign
up for only
one event and may bring one guest.
Space is
limited. Reservations are required.
To learn more about IWM’s Studio Regionale
Saturday Tasting Series, or to make
a reservation over the phone, contact Maryellen
Philipps at 212.473.2323, x129.
IWM at Hong Kong International Wine Fair & Newport Wine and Food Festival
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Catch Sergio at these Passion Events…
Hong
Kong International Wine Fair
Location:
Wan Chai, Hong Kong
Aug 14–16,
Various Events
This week Sergio and the IWM Team are
attending the Hong Kong International Wine
Fair, and while
there are many events taking place, Sergio
will be spearheading the Wine Tasting
Session devoted to “How to Collect
Italian Wine” on Saturday, August
16. While the NYC
metropolitan area serves as IWM’s
principal market, Sergio’s efforts to
educate people on quality wine production in
Italy extends outside the city limits, and
the U.S.
The Newport Mansions
Wine and Food
Festival
Location: Newport, RI
Sep. 26-28, 2008—Various Events
Sergio will be sharing his passion for
Italian wine, food, and culture through
seminars and wine dinners. The IWM team will
be on hand to pour wines at the Grand Tasting
and provide insights concerning IWM's unique
finds, while IWM's Cellar
Management team assists attendees in creating
a balanced wine collection.
Passion on the Vine:
A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family
in the Heart of Italyby Sergio
Esposito
(Hardcover,
304
pages)
Buy
Now
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