August 8, 2008
New Arrivals, 800+ Italian Icons, Le Macchiole, and More
In This Issue
A Note
from Sergio
As much as my work is inextricable from wine,
my life is yet more tangled up with wine, and
that is a good thing. Every milestone, from
my wedding, to the birth of my children, to
my parents’ most recent wedding
anniversary, I have celebrated with wine, and
that wine was usually Italian. When I scan a
wine list at a restaurant, or even look at
the bottles that line the shelves of my
store, I find my mind instantly associates a
specific moment—a private triumph, an
intimate victory, a small
jubilation—with that specific bottle.
When I hold a small sip of certain wines in
my mouth, I’ll see a specific instant
in my head. I hope that what I do for a
living brings these associations to other
people; it’s deeply gratifying to
think that it might.
All of that is a preamble to explain what
makes this particular newsletter so special
to me. On the surface, it may just seem like
a bunch of samplers—venial ways that
my company has packaged these wines to make
them marketable to people like you—and
nothing more. When I look at these lists of
wine, however, I see something completely
different.
In the first sampler, I see the wines from
my first home—Campania—and I see
bottles that hold in their wines the air, the
water and the earth that raised me and my
family. In the next collection, I see not
just the wines of the Italian North, but the
wines that I learned to value when I first
started in this business, and in the
following one, Le Macchiole’s
reinvention of Bolgheri I see the wines I
began to understand when I became a
sommelier. In the Barolo flight from Bartolo
Mascarello, I see a man whose death has not
ended his influence over me. And in the
largest offering of 800 bottles, I see the
whole of my work, the entirety of my life,
really, and how the slender threads of one
person’s existence can weave through
the lives of so many others.
I’m on the road a lot this
summer—this week I’m in Miami,
and next week I’m off to the Far East.
I’ve had a lot of fun, and I’ve
gotten very tired. What makes my jet-setting
life possible is my business of wine, but the
thing that makes it all worth it is my
relationships with people. Here’s
hoping that you’ll drink these wines
with people you care about and make some
inextricable connections of your own.
My Best,
Sergio
For more accounts of Italian wine, food, and life reserve
my new book:
Passion
on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart
of Italy.
Southern Exposure
Selections from
Sicilia,
Campania, Sardegna,
& Puglia
If you’re on the lookout for some of
Italy’s most value-oriented and
adventurous wines, we’ve got the wine
trail to take. Simply head south, where the
winemakers of Puglia, Campania, Sardegna, and
Sicilia are crafting their wines with
artisanal care—and capturing the attention
of both critics and wine enthusiasts with
the fruits of
their labors. The south of Italy
often suffers the fate of the middle child:
it gets
overlooked in the face of its more
prominent siblings. Therefore, we’ve
assembled this sampler in order to introduce
you to
the wild beauty of the South’s
viniculture. There’s a Sicilian
sparkler with classic credentials,
an “underground” red
that’s the product of aging in amphora,
a surprisingly spicy rosé, a model
Mastroberardino Taurasi, and two spirited
reinterpretations of the South’s most
venerable grapes. Whether you’ve long
treasured the wines of southern Italy, or
you’re just looking for some
reds to complement the dog days of summer,
you’ll find it in Italy’s
south.( read more)
Southern Exposure
(includes the
following):
Contini
2006 Nieddera Rosato…$14.85
(Sardegna—Nieddera)
Cos
2005 Pithos…$44.55
(Sicilia—Nero d'Avola, Frappato di
Vittoria)
Mastroberardino
2003 Taurasi Radici…$49.50
(Campania—Aglianico)
Murgo
2004 Brut…$29.70
(Sicilia—Nerello Mascalese)
Paolo
Petrilli 2004 Ferrau…$28.05
(Puglia— Nero di Troia,
Sangiovese)
Valle
dell'Acate 2005 Cerasuolo di
Vittoria…$26.40
(Sicilia—Nero d'Avola, Frappato)
‡ Free Delivery in Manhattan
Northern Exposure
Selections from
Liguria,
Friuli, Alto Adige, Veneto, & Trentino
Sometimes a wine is about the vintage,
sometimes it’s about the winemaker. In
this sampler, however, the wines are all
about place. In Northern Exposure, we’ve
assembled expressions that are
resolutely local in character, so you can
experience the terroir of Italy’s North
by way of its vine. You’ll find
Liguria’s steep seaside vintages shown
in a signature Pigato, Friuli’s
rolling hills reflected in both a sincere and
honest red and a pellucid archetypal white,
Trentino Alto-Adige’s alpine vistas
illustrated by a pair of unusual and
trend-setting reds, and the Veneto epitomized
in an extraordinary bottle from a
legend. Each of these wines makes a unique
statement about the terroir—that
ineffable combination of earth, air, and
water—where it was born. Even if you
don’t get a chance to visit each of
the areas represented by this sampler,
drinking these wines, you’ll feel as
if you did. ( read
more)
Northern Exposure
(includes one of each
from the
below):
Bruna
2006 Pigato Le Russeghine $28.88
(Liguria—Pigato)
Castello
di Rubbia 2006 Terrano…$42.90
(Friuli—Terrano [Refosco])
Fantinel
Sant'Helena 2006 Tocai…$24.75
(Friuli—Tai [Tocai Friulano])
Hofstätter
2001 Pinot Nero Barthenau…$79.99
(Alto Adige—Pinot Nero)
Quintarelli 2004
Primofiore…$49.50
(Veneto—Corvina Veronese, Corvinone,
& others)
Tenuta
San Leonardo 2001 Gonzaga…$59.95
(Trentino—Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cabernet Franc, Merlot)
‡ Free Delivery in Manhattan
Le Macchiole Bolgheri
Bolgheri's Affair
with Bordeaux
Listen closely to an in-the-know
collector’s discussion about
Château Pétrus, and you’ll
invariably hear comparisons being made to a
few Italian wines—Masseto,
Italy’s most famous Merlot, and, in
certain knowledge exchanges, Messorio, the
flagship monovarietal Merlot from Le
Macchiole. Although one of the original
Super-Tuscan estates, Le Macchiole has stayed
on the outskirts of the limelight, eschewing
the physical grandeur of its Tuscan
neighbors, while nevertheless generating the
nearly obsessive interest of astute
collectors. Moreover, Le Macchiole has truly
created its own niche in the somewhat densely
populated Super-Tuscan category by choosing
to communicate its intimate grasp of terroir
through pure-varietal bottlings.
In 2001, Le Macchiole took Paleo, one of
its signature wines, into monovarietal
territory, delivering a formidable expression
of the estate’s work with Cabernet
Franc. Indeed, Cabernet Franc does quite well
for itself in Bolgheri, for the warm climate
enables it to sufficiently ripen, thereby
avoiding the greenness that it tends to
exhibit in cooler areas and enabling it to
achieve complexity. That special something
between Bolgheri and Cabernet Franc reaches
particular heights at Le Macchiole, where it
displays a graphite dimension and spicy
pepper. For contrast, we’ve included
the 2000 Paleo—the wine’s final
vintage as a Bordeaux blend (Cabernet
Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) that’s
drinking tremendously right now. Le
Macchiole’s Scrio has always been a
solo affair—a single-vineyard Syrah
inspired by the wines of
Côte-Rôtie (a passion of Le
Macchiole’s late founder, Eugenio
Campolmi). Scrio represents minute yields
from two vineyard sources, and a rigorous
selection process that produced a mere 400
cases in 2004.
To complete our house sampler, we’ve
included Le Macchiole’s eponymous
bottling, Macchiole, which is currently the
estate’s only red blend. Originally
conceived as the label’s second wine,
Macchiole forewent this status beginning in
’03 when it emerged as a more
accessible bottling. We’ve gone back to
the penultimate bottling of the original
here, when Sangiovese was King.
Le Macchiole Bolgheri
Sampler (includes one of each
from the
below):
Le Macchiole
2004 Scrio…$209.00
(Toscana—Syrah)
Le Macchiole
2004 Paleo
Rosso…$93.00**
(Toscana—Cabernet Franc)
Le Macchiole
2003 Messorio…$229.00**
(Toscana—Merlot)
Le Macchiole 2000
Paleo Rosso…$89.99
(Toscana—Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cabernet Franc)
Le Macchiole
2002
Rosso…$29.70
(Toscana—Sangiovese, Merlot,
Cabernet Franc, Syrah)
** Indicates Prearrival
‡ Free Delivery in Manhattan
Barolo's Vintage Streak: Via Mascarello
Experience the Historic Vintage Streak
Through The Great Traditionalist
The late Bartolo Mascarello’s
influence upon Sergio and the IWM staff
arguably has
been unequaled by that of any other
producer. Thus, while other merchants have
developed an intense preoccupation with the
2004 Barolo vintage, we’ve taken a step
outside the frenzy to bring you a rare
opportunity to taste the wines of the late
Bartolo Mascarello and those of his daughter,
Maria-Teresa, in an exclusive
context—the historic Barolo Vintage
Streak (1996–2001). This is one of the
most important samplers in the history of the
wine region, and IWM presents it with
solo provenance.
In Passion on the Vine, Sergio
recounts his first meeting with Mascarello,
an occasion that transformed his
entire relationship with wine. While he
entered Mascarello’s unassuming office
with cast-iron confidence, he left humbled
and irrevocably changed. In the space
of one solitary encounter, Sergio came to better
understand not only what great wine was, but
also that great wine was ultimately
unknowable. As Sergio writes in his memoir,
“This was the magnificence of
Bartolo’s wine. It was constantly
morphing, evolving, impossible to know
entirely. You could experience it an infinite
number of times and you would never be able
to master it.”
This dedicated Mascarello sampler is of
monumental import. These wines are, on both a
fundamental and philosophical level, about
patience, placing them far outside the
frenetic, New York–minute world of
tasting notes and scores. Indeed, on that
fateful day Sergio was in a rush to leave,
to move on to the next meeting, to find the
next great wine. He was internally bursting
at the time delay between the wine’s
being poured and the act of “get[ting]
down to drinking it.” Mascarello
didn’t indulge Sergio’s worldly
pressure, providing, in effect, an
illustration of how to approach his wine.
Mascarello’s Barolo is not simply a
wine that demands patience over a long-term
cellaring period; it demands patience once
it reaches the glass. When Mascarello and
Sergio finally begin drinking that’78
Barolo—from a bottle that had been
opened two weeks prior—it was not what
it had been when first poured. The
wine’s profound change removed Sergio
from all “wordly concerns,”
placing him in a “labyrinth in which
nothing made sense.”
We invite you into this very labyrinth
through our Mascarello tribute that includes
four of Piemonte’s heralded Vintage
Streak years, in addition to the 2003
cuvée. We recommend that you accompany
this purchase with a copy of
Passion on
the Vine, where
you’ll find the complete account of
Sergio’s historic meeting.
Mascarello Vertical
Sampler (includes one of each
from the
below):
Bartolo
Mascarello 2003 Barolo…$96.95
Bartolo Mascarello 2001
Barolo…$117.57
Bartolo Mascarello 2000
Barolo…$108.63
Bartolo Mascarello 1999
Barolo…$118.95
Bartolo Mascarello 1998 Barolo…$105.19
** Indicates Prearrival
‡ Free Delivery in Manhattan
26 Mags of DRC or 800+ Bottles of Italy's Icons?
Two Takes on Filling A
Wine Collection
Here’s the question: 26 Magnums of the
most sought-after wines in the world, or 800+
bottles of Italy’s finest wines? A few
weeks back, IWM featured these 26 DRC
magnums from the historic 2005 vintage in
Burgundy. The $400,000 parcel sold and at
that amount the wine is more likely to be an
investment than a collector's obsession.
Rare wines have recently been shown to
outperform most traditional commodities, and
these large formats will certainly reward an
investment objective.
But at IWM, we also consider this investment
from another angle—namely, what the
individual could receive by investing half of
that $400,000 in Italian selections. Just
the other week our Cellar Management Division
created a proposal for a client who was
looking to obtain a complete cellar of
Italy’s Finest Wines
(we’ve included the proposal here).
The list we developed included a small
portion of mature vintage wines that are
ready for consumption today, but it was
primarily comprised of wines meant to be
enjoyed over the next three decades. The
list began with jeroboams from our Granbussia
Millenium package, as well as the Barolo
legends-to-be from the structured vintages of
1996, 1999, 2001, and 2004. These
exceptional vintages formed the foundation of
the list, and to complete it, we added a
spectrum of Italy’s quality
wines—Barbaresco, Amarone, Brunello
di Montalcino, Super-Tuscans, Taurasi, and
Montepulciano. The first column ran
through
legendary producers such as Gaja, Giacosa,
Mascarello,
Sandrone, Antinori, Scavino, Biondi-Santi,
Soldera, Valentini, Fiorano, and
Mastroberardino,
while the second column
focused on the iconic labels, including
Sassicaia,
Masseto,
Solaia, Redigaffi, Case Basse di Soldera,
Monfortino, and Granbussia. More than 800
bottles from Italy’s
greatest vintages, producers, and wines featured in
our debut Italy’s Finest
Wines proposal.
Again, we pose the question: 26 Magnums of the
most sought-after wine in
the world or 800+ bottles of Italy’s
finest wines? There is no right or wrong
answer here. Each individual has different
objectives and tastes. And whether
the budget is $500 or $500,000, most
enthusiasts and collectors need help finding
and purchasing the wines most appropriate for
them. Fulfilling this need is the focus of
both IWM in general and our special Cellar
Management division in particular. If
you are interested in learning more about
our program or receiving a customized cellar
proposal, please contact us at 212.473.2323,
x101.
Italy’s
Finest Wines Collection…
$222,589.00
( Click
for a complete PDF wine list and pricing.)
Wine Collecting Services: DRC to Vega Sicilia
A New Installment for
IWM's Collecting Services Members
IWM SPECIAL OFFERS
A new feature available to collectors
is our Special
Daily Offers that features extraordinary
offerings from blue-chip
Bordeaux to
vintage Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley.
Last week, we presented
the 2005 releases from the renowned Domaine
de la
Romanée-Conti estate, which we have included
below in the company of France's Domaine Huet
l'Echansonne. If
you
would like to
receive these offers on a regular basis or
view a
complimentary online demo of our wine collecting
software, please send a request to our Cellar
Specialists.
Domaine Huet Vouvray
Domaine
Romanée-Conti 2005:
Assorted Case(Original Wood Case [OWC])
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Romanée-Conti
(1 bottle)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 La Tâche (3
bottles)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Richebourg (2
bottles)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Romanée-St-
Vivant (2 bottles)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Echézeaux (2
bottles)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Grands-
Echézeaux (2 bottles)
IWM Wine Tastings
View all of IWM's Upcoming Events.
Understanding Super-Tuscans:
A Study of
Toscana's Pioneering Wine Movement
Saturday, August 9,
2008 1:00–3:00 p.m.,
$75.00
The term
Super-Tuscan conjures words like
creativity, freedom, spirit, and defiance.
What started as a viticultural experiment
carried out by some of Toscana's most
prominent producers in defiance of DOC and
DOCG regulations in the early 1970s
facilitated a movement that became a model
for expressing the qualitative potential of
terroir. There is no denying
the impact these wines have had, not only in
Toscana, but upon Italy as a whole. While the
category has suffered abuse, there is a
formidable
selection of Super-Tuscan wines that demand
attention.
An IWM Sommelier will take you through the
history of the Super-Tuscan movement and its
impact,
as well as providing a sense of its future
direction and
the depth of the genre. This tasting was
created with the aspiring enthusiast in mind
and will feature eight wines, including
Tenuta dell'Ornellaia’s Le Serre Nuove
and a
Tuscan effort in both Trentino and Sardegna.
Participants Receive:
• Wine
Note Booklet featuring IWM's proprietary
writing
• A
“Taste of” eight different
regional wines
• Sampling
of regional foods paired with wines tasted
NEW—La Dolce Vita: Friday Afternoon
Tastings
Friday, August 15,
2008 2:30–4:00 p.m.,
$45.00
A Tribute to Ferragosto
August 15
is the traditional Italian
holiday known as
Ferragosto. Walk around any Italian
town in late August and you'll see the
telltale signs of Ferragosto—nearly
every business is dark and locked, a sign
hastily taped to the door: Siamo chuisi
per ferie, or "Closed for the
holidays!" The city streets are
abandoned and the little villages are all
throwing parties. It's like the Fourth of
July, but Italian style, as no one returns
to work for at least two weeks. In honor of
Ferragosto, we have designed a special La
Dolce Vita Friday tasting featuring the
perfect wines to celebrate the last few weeks
of summer.
Participants Receive:
• A
"Taste of" five different regional
wines
• Light
regional antipasti including house-cured
meats &
regional cheeses
To learn more about IWM’s Studio Regionale
Saturday Tasting Series, or to make
a reservation over the phone, contact Maryellen
Philipps at 212.473.2323, x129.
IWM at Tanglewood & Hong Kong
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Catch Sergio at these Passion Events
The Newport Mansions Wine and Food
Festival
Location:
Newport,
RI
Sep 26–28,
Various Events
Sergio will be sharing his passion for
Italian wine,
food, and culture through seminars and wine
dinners. The IWM team will be on hand to pour
wines
at the Grand Tasting and provide insights
concerning IWM's unique finds, while IWM's
Cellar
Management team assists attendees in creating
a balanced wine collection.
Hong
Kong International Wine Fair
Location:
Wan Chai, Hong Kong
Aug 14–16,
Various Events
Sergio and IWM will be sharing their
expertise at the first Hong Kong
International Wine Fair.
Passion on the Vine:
A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family
in the Heart of Italy
by Sergio
Esposito
(hardcover,
286
pages)
Buy
Now
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