May
7,
2008
A
Mother's Day Dedication: For Alma
In This Issue
A
Note from Sergio
My book, Passion on the Vine, is about
wine, of course, and food. It’s
also about honesty, loyalty,
friendship—and family. In both my life and
my writing, wine, food, and
family have always been inextricably connected;
to talk about one is to necessarily talk
about the others. Every member of my
family—my
memorable father, my genial brothers and
sister, my beautiful wife, and my own
wonderful children—is important to
me. Although I could have dedicated
my book to any member of my family, I chose
to dedicate it to my mother, Alma.
I chose to dedicate the book to my mom
because she taught me many things,
but I regard one lesson in particular
as a very special gift.
What my mother taught me was this: sometimes
all it takes is a taste
of something truly great for you to realize
how wonderful the world really is. I’ve
chosen an excerpt from my book to give a bit
more life to that
lesson of my mother’s:
Every day of my childhood, my curvy little
mother in her bright cotton dress swerved
absently about the market as she talked and
sipped a cup of lemonade. Sometimes she would
treat me to a fruit gelato made of fresh
peaches, or a coffee gelato made with ground
espresso beans. On special days, I was allowed
my favorite sweet: fresh-from-the-oven
sfogliatella, a
ricotta-and-orange-peel-filled pastry that I
would crack open and watch
the steam spiral out of.
My mother, Alma Tschantret, was a typical
Neapolitan woman—rowdy, warm,
sensual—and, as such, she had mastered
the kitchen so completely that when she was
cooking an elaborate meal, it
almost seemed as though she was doing nothing
more than standing absently at the counter.
She bought what looked best and prepared it
intuitively. Some days, we returned from the
market with a bunch of tomatoes and a box of
pasta; other days, we might come back with a
live eel, pearl onions, lemons, zucchini,
potatoes, and arugula.
I doubt that my mother has ever followed a
recipe in her life. The kitchen was her
cocoon and her kingdom. She had been raised
in it, and she spent her days there
surrounded, often, by several of her ten
brothers and sisters, a few of her four
children, or a bunch of her twenty nieces and
nephews. They smoked and drank and cooked and
talked in
the kitchen.
My family might have been in the kitchen, but
my mother ruled it. I can’t be with my
mom this Mother’s Day; she lives a
couple of time zones and many miles away. But I
want to take this moment
to show her that I love her and that
I’m thinking about her. And not just on
Mother’s Day, but every day, especially
when I taste something wonderful.
I’ve chosen a basket of wine to help
you celebrate your mothers. I’d be
delighted if, when you taste your favorite,
you hold a sip in your mouth for a moment
and experience how exceptional this
world can be.
Wishing you and yours a lovely Mother’s
Day.
My Best,
Sergio
P.S.
Please see the article in the May 7, 2008 edition of the Washington
Post concerning Sergio and his mother, Alma—“A Paean to His Passion.” It
is a fitting complement to this week’s e-Letter.
Washington Post, “A Paean to His
Passion”
For more accounts of Italian wine, food, and life reserve
my new book:
Passion
On The Vine: a Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart of Italy
Gift Set for the Beginner
The wines featured in this first sampler
would win Alma’s approval,
as none are quite themselves on their own.
Indeed, during a particularly lengthy
seafood feast in Passion, Sergio and
his friends and family drink bottle
after bottle of Sartarelli
Verdicchio—the chosen accompaniment of Le
Marche’s natives for the
region’s signature seafood. Barbera has
long been esteemed for its food-savvy
smarts, and consummate traditionalist
Mascarello’s restrained, high-acid
style has the verve to handle many
of Passion’s multicourse dining
engagements. Anselma’s traditional
Barolo, inspired by Mascarello, celebrates
the land of Piemonte and its past.
Sergio’s cooking session with its
stylish creator provides a tasteful
suggestion for the perfect
accompaniment….
The Passion
Book & Gift Set for the
Beginner
Includes:
• Passion
on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and
Family in the Heart of Italy
(Signed Hardcover
edition)
• Sartarelli
2004 Verdicchio Tralivo
• Bartolo Mascarello 2005 Barbera d'Alba
• Famiglia
Anselma 2000 Barolo
Passion Book & Gift Set for the
Beginner…$146.97
Also Consider:
Passion
on the Vine at a special
rate…
Gift Set for the Enthusiast
Sergio roots his mother’s culinary
genius in the intuitive, finding
it hard to believe that she “ever
followed a recipe in her life.” Her
command of the kitchen was such, in fact,
that she often gave the impression
of “doing nothing more than standing
absently at the counter” when
preparing elaborate meals. Nonetheless,
this almost casual attitude is accompanied
by an earnest and deep-rooted desire to
ensure that all members of her family
have enough to eat at every single
meal….
This abiding need is the source of great
comedy in one of Passion’s
chapters, though the scene in question
shifts into the dramatic as Sergio and
his family proceed through a full line-up
of Quintarelli’s wines, including
the Baby Amarone featured here. A master
craftsman, Quintarelli remains largely
an enigma—a genius whose wines allow
no point of comparison. Movia’s
Ales Kristancic is another spirit wholly
unto himself, making wines that conform
only to his complex biodynamic principles.
In Passion, he
captivates Stephany, Sergio's wife, with a
comprehensive lesson on his philosophy, devoting
special attention to how he came to be struck by
moonlight. His "Great White" (Veliko Belo
in
Slovenian), a cuvée of Ribolla, Chardonnay,
Sauvignon, and Pinot Grigio aged for three
years in
oak, redefines what it means to be a white
wine. And then there’s the patriarch of Brunello—Biondi-Santi—represented,
appropriately enough, by a Rosso di Montalcino that steadfastly rejects the textbook
Rosso paradigm, choosing to cast itself firmly in the character of a Brunello.
Divesting itself of all connection to the Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Biondi-Santi’s
Rosso defies you to call out its legal credentials.
The Passion Book &
Gift Set for the Enthusiast
Includes:
• Passion
on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and
Family in the Heart of Italy
(Signed Hardcover
edition)
• Movia 2003 Veliko Bianco
• Biondi-Santi 2004 Rosso di Montalcino
• Mastroberardino 2003 Taurasi Radici
Passion Book & Gift Set for the
Enthusiast…$179.39‡
‡Free Delivery in Manhattan
Please Note Shipping Deadlines for
Mother's Day. To ensure delivery by Friday, May
9:
UPS 2nd Day: Order must be received by May 7,
5:00 p.m.
UPS Next Day: Order must be received by May
8, 5:00 p.m.
Delivery by IWM: Order received by May 10,
5:00 p.m.*
*Limited to Manhattan only
New Arrival: Còlpetrone
Umbria's Indigenous
Big Red
Given Italy’s extensive indigenous
population, it takes a lot for a
grape to make a name for itself, but
Sagrantino’s risen up the varietal
ranks almost
effortlessly in the last few years. Just
as it was beginning this climb, the
serendipitous arrival of esteemed consultant
Lorenzo Landi altered the Còlpetrone
estate’s relationship with
the difficult-to-manage Sagrantino.
You see, there’s a reason why
Umbria’s
premier grape conducted an extensive and
noted history as a passito wine.
As Sagrantino’s aggressive tannins
can be difficult to manage, a sweet
wine’s residual sugar serves as a
desirable modifying agent. Nonetheless,
extensive research conducted in the 1970s
(by the Terre de’ Trinci estate)
precipitated the vinification of the first
dry Sagrantino, establishing the
grape’s affinity for the dry state.
The esteemed productions of the artisanal
Paolo Bea and the modern-oriented Marco Caprai
of the Arnaldo Caprai estate have
continued to elevate the image and
desirability of Sagrantino, rendering it
one of Italy’s most provocative and
trendy indigenous varietals. Landi’s
balanced and accessible productions have
earned a spot for Còlpetrone
on that list, though Sagrantino’s
age-old problem—its
scarcity—continues
to make difficult to acquire.
Saiagricola, the agricultural investment
subsidiary of Italy’s Fondiaria–SAI
Group, seeks to develop relatively unknown,
high-potential areas. In 1995,
it established the Còlpetrone estate
in Umbria’s Montefalco zone
(other estates include Montalcino’s
La Poderina and Montepulciano’s
Fattoria del Cerro). At present,
Còlpetrone possesses one of the largest
vineyard holdings in the region.
Còlpetrone’s bottling evinces
the stylistic orientation of Caprai
in its deep purple, full-bodied splendor.
While the tannins are formidable and
the oak rather lavish, the blueberry and
blackberry fruit is styled to match,
with highlights of rich spices and vanilla
adding dimension to its extroverted persona.
The Sangiovese–based Rosso di Montefalco is
crafted for earlier accessibility
than Sagrantino, and
Còlpetrone’s version (70%
Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino,
and 15% Merlot) delivers accordingly in its
core of dark fruit, which allows Sangiovese
to make its presence known in warm notes of
herb and game. It’s
a superb introduction to Umbrian sensibility
and Landi’s signature style.
IWM Saturday Events
View
all of IWM's Upcoming Events.
Special Wine Tasting Event:
Italian Wines that Inspired the
Book—Passion
on the Vine
May 24, 2008 1:00–3:00
p.m., $95.00
For those spending Memorial Day weekend in
the city,
IWM is offering a special wine event
showcasing the
wines and producers that inspired IWM owner,
Sergio Esposito, to write his new book,
Passion on the Vine: A Memoir of Food,
Wine, and Family in the Heart of Italy.
Bill Buford describes the memoir
as “the best book about Italian
wine today," and we at IWM think
it’s the perfect summer read,
integrating wine,
food, and Italian culture in an engaging,
accessible
style. An IWM sommelier will lead the tasting,
retracing Sergio’s footsteps from
the hills of Piemonte to the Adriatic Coast
of Le Marche. Eight wines will be
poured, including selections from the estates of
Movia,
Sartarelli, Quintarelli, Biondi-Santi,
and Mascarello, accompanied by some regional
pairings to complete our book-to-wine
experience.
Each guest will
receive a signed copy.
Participants Receive:
• A signed copy of Passion on the
Vine
• Wine Note Booklet featuring IWM's
proprietary writing
• A “Taste of” eight
different wines from Passion on the
Vine
• Sampling of regional foods paired with
each wine tasted
From Campania
to Sicilia: A Taste of Southern Italian
Wines
May 17, 2008, 1:00–3:00
p.m., $50.00
Take this opportunity to taste some of our
newest
arrivals, as we turn our attention to the
artisanal
wonders of the South. This casual walk-around
tasting provides an exploration of the
quality, style, and
grape varietals hailing from Campania,
Sicilia, and
Puglia. We couldn't resist including a new
gem from
Lazio as well, a region that is technically a
part of
Central Italy. Indulge in the opulent
expression of
Southern Italy's indigenous wonders, many of
which
have been enjoying a profound renaissance period
over the
last several years. Discover the dark-fruited
and tarry
Aglianico—the very face of
Campania—and the provocative boldness of
Sicilia's Nero d'Avola. These
grapes make a clear statement about who they are
and where they're going.
Participants Receive:
• Wine Note Booklet featuring
IWM’s proprietary writing
• Sampling of regional cheeses
and house-cured meats
• A “Taste of” six
different regional wines
A Study of the
North Part I—Tre Venezie: Alto Adige,
Friuli, & Veneto
May 10, 2008, 1:00–3:00
p.m., $75.00
This seated Study of seminar will be
led by an IWM sommelier, who will
showcase and pour wines from Italy’s
Northeastern region. The storied land
known as Tre Venezie is home to such
cultural phenomena as Romeo & Juliet,
Harry’s Bellini, and the famed
Prosciutto San Daniele. Beyond the
romance and culinary delights, there are the
native varietals and esoteric winemakers
that create some of Italy’s most
overlooked wines. Roman, German, and Austrian
heritages integrate to form the basis of this
exemplary tasting. Guests will
be treated to Prosecco, the traditional
aperitif; Friuli’s quintessential
pairing of Tai (formerly known as
Tocai) and Prosciutto; the mystique
of Amarone; and an aged Lagrein from the
hills of Alto Adige. Eight wines and
some regional pairings will complete this
Tre Venezie adventure.
Participants Receive:
• Wine Note Booklet featuring
IWM’s proprietary writing
• Sampling of regional foods
paired with each wine tasted
• A “Taste of” eight
different regional wines
To learn more about IWM's Studio Regionale
Saturday Tasting Series, or to make
a reservation over the phone, contact Chris Deas at 212.473.2323, x101.
Passion in the Washington Post
Passion on the Vine:
A Memoir of Food, Wine,
and Family in the Heart of Italy
by Sergio Esposito
(Hardcover, 304 pages)
Buy
Now
|
Please see the article in the May 7, 2008 edition of the Washington
Post concerning Sergio and his mother, Alma—“A Paean to
His Passion.” It is a fitting complement to this week’s e-Letter.
Below is an excerpt.
We’ve never met Alma Tschantret, but in honor of Mother’s
Day, we salute her. She’s the mother of Italian wine merchant Sergio
Esposito, author of the hilarious, insightful and moving memoir Passion
on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart of Italy (Broadway,
2008).
After all, if it weren’t for Alma, there would be no Sergio, and
thus no page-turner to delight our senses and reignite our own passions,
as this one did. As Gianfranco Soldera, Italy’s most distinguished
producer of Brunello di Montalcino, observes in the book, “You know
what they say: If they come out right, it’s because of the mother.”
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