April 25 , 2008
Northern Red Education

A Note from Sergio Northern Red Education Sampler Mozart's Wine Blood of Judus Unchartered Terrano

Hottest Red from the Cool Italian Noth Not Just for Locals Anymore Book Signing and Tasting Passion in the Wall Street Journal

(Lombardia—Marzemino)
[Marzemino [mah(l)r-tseh-mee-no]
“Do you have Marzemino by the glass?” Chances are that this query will elicit a look of befuddlement from the most erudite of sommeliers. You’re in good company, though. Legend has it that Marzemino was the most beloved grape of Amadeus Mozart, a preference that was immortalized by his librettist, Lorenzo Da Ponte, in Don Giovanni. So what happened to this purple-colored, medium-bodied wine set to a lively acidity with engaging notes of berry, plum, and violets? As a late-ripening grape, Marzemino isn’t served very well by its native ground of Trentino, which many believe does not provide the conditions necessary for any grape to ripen fully, let alone one that reaches phenolic maturity towards the end of the growing season. Others contend that the climate is sufficiently warm, given the phenomenon known as the ora, a warm breeze that makes a daily afternoon appearance, serving to offset the cool evening air.

To its credit, Marzemino’s tried to relocate. The Veneto has been the site of modest appearances, and Toscana may have been one of its former haunts— a residency during which it possibly played a role in Chianti. It may, however, have found its proving ground at long last in Lombardia. If anyone can make it work there, it would be Pratello’s Vincenza Bertola, who is committed to working with grapes that are outside the varietal familiars of the area, yet demonstrate an affinity for the terroir concerned. Indeed, this “offsite” production carries a little more drama than is typical for the grape, displaying supple black cherry and blueberry fruit, along with sweet tannins. A Marzemino fit for Mozart….

(Lombardia—Croatina)
Croatina [k(l)ro-ah-tee-nah]
Croatina takes the lead in this traditional Sangue di Giuda, which literally means “Blood of Judas”. Such a name certainly belies the simple, engaging character of the wine, so christened, according to legend, by a group of friars who disapproved of its stimulating properties and perhaps sought an effective deterrent. Croatina— frequently referred to as Bonarda (not to be confused with Piemonte’s Bonarda)— is joined in this controversial blend by frequent partner Barbera and the aptly named Uva Rara (rare grape). Bonarda and Barbera are effectually heading up the reinvention of Lombardia's Oltrepò Pavese, along with this former spumante specialist's trendy, barrique-aged Pinot Noir. Both have changed their attitudes considerably: Barbera is fleshing out the austere persona characterizing its earlier appearances, while Bonarda has developed a serious dimension, moving away from its dismissive frizzantedays and displaying a dark, lush persona. The two often work together, especially in Oltrepò Pavese’s Buttafuoco and Sangue di Giuda DOCs, where they are joined by Uva Rara, Ughetta, and Pinot Nero.

The estate of Bruno Verdi, one of Oltrepò Pavese’s prominent producers—is committed to cultivating the consummate expressions of the zone’s premier varieties. This single-vineyard Sangue di Giuda is a labor of local love, an aromatic, modest beauty  with lightly sweet cherry and raspberry fruit that’s shaped and toned by a persistent acidity.

(Friuli—Terrano)
Terrano [teh(l)r-rah-no]
The Carso region’s work in the red zone is essentially dedicated to Refosco, one of Friuli’s principal natives, but it distinguishes its work from mainstream Friuli by taking the name of Terrano (meaning “earth”). It’s quite serious about making the distinction between Refosco proper and Terrano, which is technically a subvariety of Refosco. In 1986, a wine program entitled “The Wine Route of Terrano” was established in order to promote the identity of Terrano. But, before going down that road, it’s helpful to place Refosco in a broader context. While all three of Friuli’s main indigenous grapes—Refosco, Pignolo, and Schioppettino— have been making their way back onto the scene after a period of quietus, Refosco seems to be not-too-subtly declaring its supremacy, showing its ability to perform in a broad stylistic range. Who knew that this once light, high-acid frasca staple could perform with panache at the concentrated end, where it shows what it can do not just as a big wine, but goes a bit further, displaying its luscious intrigue in appassimento versions. It’s also shown surprising adaptability, finding success as a varietal wine in both California and upstate New York.

But in Carso, terroir, rather than technique, is the defining agent. Thus, Castello di Rubbia keeps to the leaner side of the Refosco spectrum, allowing Carso’s distinctive red soils to be readily discerned in this Terrano’s substantive minerality and penetrating acidity. Its hands-off regimen omits oak, preserving the wine’s pure red-fruit character.

Lagrein [lah-g(l)rayn]
Lagrein used to be a local that just didn't have any intention of leaving home. Indeed, it’s only fairly recently that this heat-seeking red—a natural for Alto Adige’s Bolzano, which, contrary to expectation given its northern positioning, is one of Italy’s hottest cities—assumed a place among Italy’s indigenous names to know. Unlike Schiava (see below), it’s not trying to overcome its past or assume a more attractive identity. Lagrein couldn’t be a light wine if it tried. Even when fashioned as a rosé, its flavors run particularly deep. As a full-fledged red, it delivers a trademark juxtaposition between sweet and savory, taking its signature blackberry aroma and flavor, intense and sultry, and positioning it against a gamey, sauvage element, oftentimes imbued by a mineral streak and an herbal dimension. Why has such an inherently rich and complex grape struggled to make a name for itself? It would seem that Alto Adige is partly to blame. Despite its historic ties to the region, its presence is fairly limited. In 1990, plantings of Lagrein totaled 618 acres. With a present total of approximately 840 acres, growth has hardly been substantial, but some have taken up this vine’s cause with passion.

(Trentino–Alto Adige—Lagrein)
Martin Foradori Hofstätter is one of Lagrein’s most fervent advocates, producing what is arguably the finest expression of the grape—the single-vineyard Steinraffler bottling. Hofstätter wants the world to know Lagrein, and it shows in this expression, an indulgent exhibitionist that revels in copious amounts of blackberry fruit, enhanced by the rich vanilla and spice of barrique aging. Lagreins aren't exactly in wide release as is, but one that's got some age to its credit is a really rare find, particularly one bearing the Steinraffler credentials. Availability is extremely limited.

(Trentino–Alto Adige—Lagrein)
While the ’99 has matured, moving beyond sheer voluptuousness, it’s still an intense production. Peter Sölva & Söhne’s De Silvas Lagrein is a far less demonstrative sort; yet its clearly of the Hofstätter persuasion, emphasizing Lagrein's blackberry fruit and spice in a polished package.

(Trentino–Alto Adige—Schiava)
Schiava [skyah-vah]
You wouldn’t know it, but Schiava (referred to in German as Vernatsch) is the dominant grape of Alto Adige, outdoing not only its fellow reds but Alto Adige’s signature white population as well. Problem is, it doesn’t get outside its would-be-domain very often. If it did, it would be able to prove that it’s not just for locals anymore. Sure, it had its days as a light, rustic type, when this northerly Italian outpost was Austria. And some hold to this tradition, content to produce simple expressions that are best experienced close to home. But others want Schiava to break with tradition and find itself outside its comfort zone.

The estate of Peter Sölva & Söhne is one of them. Given that the estate’s history dates back to the beginning of the 18th century, you’d expect to find old-school Schiava drinking here. Not so. The estate’s evolution has been a gradual one, but its wines have a pretty mature grasp of the modern palate. In a red line-up of light to full, Peterleiten drinks in the lighter zone, but it’s almost a round kind of light, giving this classic Schiava a modern, updated feel.

A touch of heat from the alcohol serves as a plumping agent, and the wine’s acidity is more racy and nervy than bright, giving the wine an edgy quality. The wine isn’t taken out of its native context, however; matured exclusively in stainless steel, the tart red fruit comes across as clean and honest, with a light savoriness that it might borrow from fellow native Lagrein. In many ways, it’s a classic expression, but it’s one that clearly wants Schiava to get some attention.