April
11, 2008
Sassicaia
in Sardegna and 2004 Gaja Crus
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
I don't spend as much time as I'd like walking through
Italian vineyards or sitting in the cellar of a romantic
castle discovering the next great wine. It's true that
I have the opportunity to do these things more often than
the average person, but it's not nearly often enough.
The truth is that I spend most of my days in my dark back
office, shivering from lack of heat, or in my home office
that doubles as our laundry room, glued to my laptop.
It's the price I have to pay in order to be able to visit
Italy, walk through vineyards, and taste amazing wine,
and it's worth it.
Whether it's to Piemonte or to Nantucket, I like traveling because traveling is an opportunity to meet old and new friends around the country or around the world. I often travel to appear at events-public events to promote Italian wine, private events to celebrate wine enthusiasts, and philanthropic events to raise money for charities, from The Waxman Cancer Research Foundation to Jazz Aspen. After my speaking engagements, I often get emails from people who wished they'd known about my event ahead of time. Because these events tend to sell out quickly, and because there's a bunch of really fun ones, I want to take the opportunity to give my clients a heads up on my spring and summer tour schedule. I'll
let you know as we add to this schedule. I look forward
to seeing you there! In the meantime, enjoy these new
selections that include Sassicaia's effort in Sardegna,
the crus of Angelo Gaja, and the rare vintage Taurasi
of Mastroberardino.
My best,
Sergio
For more accounts of Italian
wine, food
and life reserve my new book:
Passion On The Vine: a Memoir of Food,
Wine, and
Family in the Heart of Italy
Sassicaia
in Sardegna
 New
Arrival: Agricola Punica 2005 Montessu
Agricola
Punica 2005 Isola dei Nuraghi Montessu …$31.99
(Sardegna—Carignano, Cab. Sauvignon and Franc,
Merlot, Syrah)
Tenuta San Guido's Sassicaia and the island of Sardegna merged a few years ago
to form Agricola Punica. The 2005 vintage marks the debut of the estate's second
bottling, Montessu, which brings together Super-Tuscan sensibility and Sardegnian
flair—a little something Giacomo Tachis thought up when he was vacationing
on the Mediterranean island. When you consider some of the achievements of this
legendary winemaker—Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia, and Solengo—you
would think relaxation was the focus of the trip. Instead, Tachis found irresistible
inspiration under the Sardegnian sun.
The Tuscan legend grew enamored of the unspoiled land and set about changing
the winemaking landscape, much like he did in the pioneering days of the Super-Tuscan
movement. However, his focus in Sardegna was not exclusively on Bordeaux varietals.
Rather, Tachis sought to base his gentrification on one of Sardegna’s main
grapes, Carignano—a humble berry of Spanish origin that was likely brought
over during the days of Aragon rule. The Sardegnian terroir favors Carignano,
and with the sun boasting a daily running time of seven hours here, this grape
enjoys a rare chance to ripen to its fullest.
Convincing his Sassicaia colleagues—Marchese Nicolò Incisa della
Rocchetta and Sebastiano Rosa—of this grape’s affinity for Sardegnian
terroir, Tachis conceived Agricola Punica, a collaboration between Tenuta San
Guido and the Sardegnian cooperative Cantina Sociale di Santadi. Dedicated to
crafting Carignano–based wines, the venture bottled its first wine, Barrua
(85% Carignano), in 2002. Carignano reprises its leading role in Punica’s
follow-up, Montessu (60% Carignano), which also features 10% each Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah. Montessu rewards Tachis’ faith from
its opening phase, providing Carignano with the most flattering of introductions
in a pronounced nose of berry, currant, tar, and herbs. It draws back a bit on
the palate, but only initially—then those tannins relax and allow the wine’s
prune, plum, fig, and herbal profile to flesh out in satisfying Sardegnian splendor. Read More About Agricola Punica.
2004 Gaja Crus
 An
Icon & Mother Nature Combine for the Langhe's Finest
The 2004 vintage for Barbaresco is arguably unprecedented—a long growing
season and cool nights captured the concentration of a ripe vintage and married
it to superb structure. This riveting tension means that we’ve got two
superlative vintage scenarios—structured and ripe—working together
to stellar effect. Now consider this remarkable year in the context of a legendary
estate. In 2004 Barbaresco, we literally have a vintage that’s caught up
to the brilliant visionary who set about refashioning its identity in the late
1960s—Angelo Gaja. In creating a new, provocative image for this virtually
unknown commune through the radical introduction of barrique and cru bottlings,
practices that enraged Piemonte but captured the worldly audience he sought,
Gaja brought Barbaresco far from its previous obscurity. Now, he’s paid
back manifold with a vintage that has risen up to meet his vision with
crystal clarity and sensuous style.
As with all Gaja wines from profound vintages, each of these ’04 crus will
realize a prodigious maturation period, marked by a simultaneous appreciation
in value.
Classic, nuanced, and elegant: this single-vineyard expression in Gaja’s
cru Barbaresco trio—the second to be bottled individually (1970)—owns
these terms, and in a vintage like 2004, it literally defines them, carrying
itself across the palate with graceful deportment and refinement. This procession
recalls the elegance of 2001, yet does so with ’04’s stylistic sensibility,
delivering a layered, intricate perfume of roses, earth, and tar. Gaja believes
that 2004 is most accomplished with respect to its elegance—a quality that,
in his opinion, simply eludes the majority of vintages. It is a particularly
notable accomplishment in ’04, given the vintage’s high yields. This
unusual disparity between quality and yield put Gaja in mind of the 1964 and
1990 vintages when seeking a point of reference for the character of 2004.
Sorì Tildìn and Gaja’s Costa Russi parcels comprise the Barbaresco
commune’s Roncagliette Vineyard, which has been owned by the Gaja family
since 1967. As with all of Gaja’s cru Barbarescos, Sorì Tildìn’s
aging regimen entails a three-week maceration period in stainless steel tanks,
followed by a year of aging in barrique and one year’s refinement in cask.
Gaja’s Sorì San Lorenzo is the dark one of the trio, prone to intense
brooding and a rather backward-looking view of things. The first of the crus
to be bottled individually (1967), Sorì San Lorenzo typically requires
the most patience of the three bottlings, despite the fact that it often belies
its restraint in aromatic effusiveness. The ’04 continues to dissemble
in this seductive manner, yet the wine’s powerful framework checks such
behavior and pulls the San Lorenzo back into a state of grand incipience. It
settles into thoughtful repose here, choosing to emphasize its studied state
of refinement—yet another element that it works to grand effect in ’04.
It’s content to remain here for quite some time and promises to gradually
admit approach over the next decade, likely continuing its evolution through
the close of the following decade.
Angelo’s father, Giovanni, had sourced fruit from San Lorenzo prior to
Angelo’s formal acquisition of the plot in 1964, believing that it possessed
the highest quality fruit in the Barbaresco commune. It is, truly, a premier
cru…
Though situated right alongside Sorì Tildìn in Roncagliette, Costa
Russi, which was the third cru Barbaresco to take its place in the portfolio
(1978), inspires a new lexicon, headlined by terms such as accessible, overt,
and generous. In many ways, Costa Russi juxtaposes Sorì Tildìn,
fleshing out the other side of 2004’s persona through expressive and seductive
fruits. While the ’03 Costa Russi took this demonstrative nature into full-blown
opulence, and therefore somewhat obscured Gaja’s trademark elegance, ’04
recovers that quality with rare aplomb. Indeed, that restraint is an essential
element of Gaja Barbaresco: In 1996, Gaja forewent the Barbaresco designation
for all three crus by adding a minor percentage (5 to 8 percent, depending on
the vintage) of Barbera to each bottling. This controversial stylistic technique
was intended to heighten the wine’s acidity and approachability, as well
as better equipping it to handle the vagaries of a given vintage.
True to its nature, the ’04 Russi is generously disposed on a fundamental
level, making this the first of the ’04 Gaja crus to deliver the vintage's
virtuosity. Read More About Gaja.
Largest
Gaja Collection Available
Barbaresco(Nebbiolo)
Langhe Nebbiolo (Nebbiolo,
Barbera)
Darmagi (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Cabernet Franc)
Gaia & Rey and Rossj-Bass
(Chardonnay)
Alteni di Brassica (Sauvignon
Blanc)
Rare Vintage
Mastroberardino
 Limited
Offer: '73, '89, '90
You
won't find this anywhere else—an exceedingly rare opportunity
to acquire vintages of southern Italy's most significant
bottling—Mastroberardino's Taurasi. If you are a collector,
you are undoubtedly familiar with the Mastroberardino 1968
Taurasi, one of Italy's definitive landmarks. The memorable
vintages presented herein are in profound form, testifying
to the wine's remarkable ageworthiness, and collectively
represent a cachet presentation of what is arguably the
highest caliber expression of the Aglianico grape. The ’73
is particularly rare and unique, as it derives from a winery
and cellar that were completely devasted by an earthquake
in 1980, with restoration inciting a complete renovation
of the winery. This tumultuous event also inspired the
family to formally recognize the extent of its fastidious
research by sourcing its Taurasi bottling exclusively from
one vineyard, the 100-acre Mirabella site, which possesses
a clay- calcerous soil that is particularly conducive to
the growth of Aglianico. Beginning with the 1986 vintage, Radici (meaning "roots")
was appended to the wine's title, signifying the family's
intimate connection to the region and its ancient, storied
varietals. Read
More About Mastroberardino.
Due to the extremely limited availability of this offer, please contact
Matt Franco at 212.473.2323, ext. 107, in order to secure your exclusive
Radici collection.
IWM
on the Road
Join Sergio Esposito and the IWM Team as we tour the
country in celebration of his new book, Passion on the
Vine, and pour some of Italy's finest regional wines.
While this event list will grow, there are several below
to mark on your calendar, as Sergio makes his way around
the country.
| April
22 |
Official
Book Release
Passion on the Vine:
A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family
in the Heart of Italy
Order
your copy today. |
|
April
26
12:00-3:00 PM |
Book
Signing and Tasting at Italian
Wine Merchants
Location: New York, NY
Join Sergio and IWM as we celebrate
the release of Passion on the Vine with
a book signing and complimentary tasting.
|
|
May
1
6:30 PM |
Terra
Terroir Grille & Wine Patio
Location: Atlanta, GA
This event is part of Terra Terroir
Grille &
Wine Patio’s special Wine
Writers Series. Join Sergio at Terra
Terroir for a book signing and wine
tasting dinner.
|
|
May
5
6:00 PM |
Italian
Cultural Institute
Location: New York, NY
The Italian Cultural Institute cordially
invites you to join Sergio Esposito
for a presentation of his new book.
A book signing and reception will follow.
|
|
May
18
2:00- 3:00 PM |
Nantucket
Wine Festival
Location: Nantucket, MA
Taste
of Toscana: Brunello to Vin Santo
Sergio will be signing copies of his
new book and educating attendees about
the wines of Toscana. The IWM Team
will be on hand to pour wines at the
Grand Tasting and speak with guests
about these unique finds. |
|
July
11
3:00-4:15 PM |
Central
Coast Wine Classic
Location: Pismo Beach, CA
Sergio will serve as the Quality Wine
Honoree at this prestigious occasion,
where he'll conduct a symposium that
derives inspiration from his new book,
offering an illuminating exploration
of Italy and its remarkable vintners,
including Gravner and Quintarelli.
A book-signing session will follow
the symposium.
|
|
Sept
26-28
Various Events |
Newport
Wine and Food Festival
Location: Newport, RI
Multiple Wine and Food Events
Sergio will be sharing his passion
for Italian wine, food, and culture
through seminars and wine dinners.
The IWM team will be on hand to pour
wines at the Grand Tasting and provide
insights concerning IWM's unique finds,
while IWM's Cellar Management team
assists attendees in creating a balanced
wine collection. |
|
IWM
Wine Experience
 View
all of IWM's Upcoming Events.
Spring
Awakening: The Season's Palate
April 19, 2008 1:00-3:00 p.m., $125.00
Complement the season with our guide to the Spring’s
coolest and most savvy palate pours. Our tasting opens
with an Italian rite—whetting the palate with a crisp
Prosecco. Never heard of the aromatically riveting Pigato?
Taste one of the best artisanal productions from Riccardo
Bruna—a true insider label. Red will get a chance
to show its seasonal flair in Tenuta San Guido’s
Guidalberto, the legendary Sassicaia’s second label.
Sophisticated, yet supple, it’s the perfect pour-to-impress
wine. We’re not quite done with Sassicaia, though.
We’ll also sample the estate’s latest effort—Montessu.
Based on one of Sardegna’s principal varieties, Carignano,
this debut bottling merges Tuscan sensibility with the
Sardegnian sun—be among the first to taste this well-connected
Super-Sardegnian. A delicate Moscato will gracefully conclude
our Spring revels. Your palate’s sure to catch a
case of Spring Fever….
Participants Receive:
• Tasting Booklet that includes IWM's proprietary notes
• Sampling of regional foods prepared by IWM chefs paired with each wine
tasted
To learn more about IWM's Studio Regionale Saturday Tasting Series or to make
a reservation over the phone, contact Michann Thompson at 212.473.2323, x106.
|
