March 7, 2008
Wines of Diversity: The Moon to Three Sassicaias

A Note from Sergio Wines of Diversity Case Sampler Everyday Perfection: Mascarello to Sassicaia III Wines that Impress: Montalcino to the Moon

Collector Wines: Cru Barolo to Amarone Jr. Sassicaia Everyday?    Three Sides of Sassicaia IWM Wine Experiences James Stewart on Passion on the Vine

A Note from Sergio
Last October, my wife and I attended the wedding of one of her best friends. It was an event whose elegance was outdone only by its eclecticism. The bride was an Iranian-Australian, the groom a Jewish New Yorker, the officiant a gay former Rabbi, and the guests citizens of all five continents. The wedding service was in English, Farsi, and Hebrew. The music was provided by a French DJ accompanied by an Arabic percussionist and an Aboriginal didgeridoo. It was a profoundly unusual, incredibly diverse, and ultimately, phenomenally beautiful gathering.

Located at the unusual space 632 on Hudson, the setting provided an ideal, uncanny complement to the wedding's cosmopolitan nature. 632 on Hudson, which is rather unfortunately known as "The Real World House," embraces a kaleidoscope of décors. French provincial butts up against Moroccan beds; an Italian Renaissance ceiling mural looks down on a Spanish-style atrium; an Oriental temple caps the roof garden. But in this space, as in every house, the kitchen is the central point, and at this wedding, an Edwardian kitchen became the heart of this temporary home.

The wide trestle table laden with food only confirmed what the wedding guests had surmised from the delicious smells wafting through the open space. And once the ceremony had finished, when it came time to enjoy the company of friends old and new, to celebrate love, and to toast to the new bride and groom's happiness, all the wedding guests made their way to the kitchen to mix and mingle as my chefs cooked up a storm.

It was my pleasure to organize the food and the wine for the wedding of my wife's dear friend, and when I was assembling the menu, I put a lot of thought into how best to celebrate and capture the diversity of the group through a parallel diversity in the food and wine. It's no secret that my love of wine is seconded only by my love of food, nor is it a secret that I believe that Italian wine is best enjoyed when it's accompanied by food, preferably Italian food. To my mind, the perfect union of food and wine is like a joyful marriage, and there's no better way to celebrate a literal marriage than with this figurative one.

In choosing the food and the wine for this occasion, however, I wanted to exalt the unusual. Fortunately, Italian wine runs an expansive gamut, going from the elegant and refined to the playful and merry, and onto the strange and beautiful. I had a wide and gorgeous pool from which to pick-the kind of challenge that really sets my heart leaping.

I began with wedges of Fontina cheese and cured Coppa, paired with a 2004 Traminer Aromatico, a wine whose aroma is the sensory version of a dress adorned with wild flowers, but whose body is all earth laced by a fine minerality. Its pretty earthiness perfectly complements the nuttiness of the cheese and chewy saltiness of the salami. Next, I poured two very divergent wines while the chefs dished out two different pasta dishes, a Penne all'Amatriciana that burst with caramelized onions, pepperoncino, and guanciale (cured pig jowel), and Fusilloni with an Oxtail ragů. With these two dishes, I poured two dissimilar, yet strangely harmonious wines: a typical 2004 Chianti that reminds me of a subtle yet confident Tuscan gentleman, and an unusually big, rich, loud, and intimidating 2003 Nebbiolo Langhe that bursts at the seams with muscles and brawn.

I paired the next course, a delicate yet firm Pan-seared Grouper with Fregola, Scallions, and Oven-dried Tomatoes, with a retiring wine-a gentle, shy, and passive 2002 Barolo that, unlike its brazen Barolo brethren, seems embarrassed to show any flesh. For the final course, I chose Veal and Ricotta Meatballs, which were fried and then braised in a thick tomato sauce infused with a rich, sweet butter and aged Parmigiano. This aggressively savory dish required a wine that would stand up to it, just as people need partners who will challenge them when they need it. I picked a 2003 Aglianico, all cleaned up and dressed for the occasion, as if its grooming could tame its inherent flavor, the unmistakable signature of volcanic stones. The pairing reflected a really strong marriage: Neither flavor drowned the other out, but rather, both worked together to bring out the best in each other.

It may be an uncharacteristic move for me to quote anything in French, but being that this week I am honoring diversity in all things-wine, people, food, and culture-indulge me when I say, "Vive la difference!" Here's to toasting you and all your glorious differences, with Italian wine and all of its luscious diversity.

My Best,
Sergio

For more accounts of Italian wine, food and life reserve my new book:
Passion On The Vine: a Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart of Italy

Wines of Diversity Case Sampler

Every region has wines that brand it—Austria & Grüner Veltliner, New Zealand & Sauvignon Blanc, Australia & Shiraz, the Finger Lakes & Riesling—expressions that are inextricably linked to their terroir. These are the wines that gave these regions their start, introducing them to a broad audience and inspiring the growth of other vines, particularly those with international reach. These wines also brought attention to the broad indigenous populations out there—the numerous native specialties that make what appear to be one-grape wonders lands of compelling diversity.

With over 2,000 different kinds of grapes, Italy is the leading specialist in diversity. This week, we're proud to offer a case that celebrates Italian wine's diversity, covering its signature wines, international takes, and little-known indigenous wonders. It is not our intention here to be comprehensive—that's simply not possible. But this collection does give a compelling sense of Italy's immense range. Barolo, the calling card, takes its rightful place here, represented by one of the region's foremost crus. Hailing from a ripe vintage and the cellar of a modernist, it decidedly privileges Nebbiolo's power over its finesse. Piemonte's icon of tradition, Bartolo Mascarello, steps in on tradition's behalf, giving us a Dolcetto that's far more poised than plush. Tradition also makes its presence known through our contributors from Montalcino. The 2001 vintage is already a historic one for the region, and Canalicchio di Sopra gives a textbook reading of both the year and the appellation. Fuligni delivers a Rosso di Montalcino of impeccable breeding, a classy cru interpretation.

Sassicaia was the wine that launched a thousand Super-Tuscans, and we’ve got both its second and third labels here—well-connected siblings that honor their esteemed pedigree. But the not-so-famous can be as equally compelling. The ancient Pallagrello Bianco is an ancient wonder that bears an affinity to the whites of the Rhône; almost lost to phylloxera, we toast its recovery herein. Radikon and Movia also revisit the past to dramatic effect in their provocative and daring work with Friuli’s Ribolla Gialla. While Moscati d’Asti may not inspire that kind of contemplation, it’s perfect in its own way—a sweet and delightful endnote. And then there’s Dal Forno’s Valpolicella—a ravishing production that no one can come close to adapting.

This case doesn't specialize; rather, it provides maximum exposure to Italy's sizable corner of the grape kingdom and illustrates how Italy is truly a country for all wine enthusiasts.

Wines of Diversity Tasting Case (includes one selection of each):

Castel Sallegg 2004 Traminer Massolino 2007 Moscato d'Asti Mascarello 2006 Dolcetto d'Alba Tenuta San Guido 2005 Le Difese Fuligni 2005 Rosso Ginestreto Terre del Principe 2003 Pallagrello Bianco

Movia 2005 Lunar Canalicchi o di Sopra 2001 Brunello Tenuta San Guido 2005 Guidalberto Radikon 2002 Ribolla Gialla Clerico 2003 Barolo Ginestra Romano Dal Forno 2002 Valpolicella

Wines of Diversity Tasting Case…$552.42*
*Free Delivery in Manhattan

Read on below to buy these wines individually and learn the importance each plays in this diverse case offering.

Everyday Perfection: Mascarello to Sassicaia III

1. Castel Sallegg 2004 Traminer…$22.24
(Alto Adige—Traminer)
Gewürztraminer possesses what is, perhaps, the most distinct and arresting profile of the white grapes. Its signature bouquet of lychee, rose petals, and spices is a heady, exotic arrangement mirrored to compelling effect on the palate, which is often marked by a creaminess or slightly waxy texture. Alto Adige’s signature grape, it is widely believed to have originated in the Alto Adige town of Tramin, a heritage that is honored in its regional alias—Traminer or Traminer Aromatico. If the best food and wine pairings are insular affairs bringing together a region’s signature foods and its wines, Gewürztraminer and Alto Adige’s rich cuisine offer the model synergy. It’s a relationship that Alto Adige takes quite seriously: although the sugar-rich Gewürz tends to be a little weighty on the palate in some productions, producers in the Alto Adige, such as Castel Sallegg, work to preserve the grape’s natural acidity, turning out Gewürzs that cut a fine, toned figure.

2. Massolino 2007 Moscato d’Asti…$23.10
(Piemonte—Moscato)
Moscato d’Asti, while modest, makes one of Piemonte’s most flattering and engaging contributions to an evening’s entertainment. At the end of the day, it knows that no other can take its place in the final stage of a multicourse meal, when a wine with more serious ambitions is simply lost to fatigued palates. How welcome, then, is the beautifully perfumed Massolino Moscato, a stirring composition of mandarin orange and honey notes to ingratiate the senses? The palate continues the graceful seduction with flavors of citrus and the essence of dulce de leche, lifted by a persistent yet gentle sparkle. Welcome your guests with Prosecco, and Moscato d’Asti will provide the final graceful adieu.

3. Bartolo Mascarello 2006 Dolcetto d’Alba…$26.82
(Piemonte—Dolcetto)
In the land of Italy’s most esteemed ageworthy wine—Barolo—it’s important to remember the always inviting and approachable Barbera and Dolcetto, the ideal everyday wines. Much like Piemonte's Barbera, Dolcetto's been nursing international aspirations over the last few years and exploring its range through styles that emphasize a modern persuasion. In the case of Mascarello, the icon of traditional Barolo, Dolcetto necessarily retains its classic profile, remaining resolutely straightforward and content to hold to the old ways. It in its supple, yet restrained blue and black fruits, it casually frowns upon its more extroverted peers, comfortable and confident in its classic lines and posture.

4. Tenuta San Guido 2005 Le Difese…$32.35
(Toscana—Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Many desire to acquire the legendary Sassicaia, but find the cost of such a famous label too high. Tenuta San Guido enlarges its audience through its second and third labels, the latter of which is truly a value-oriented steal. The debut vintage of the third label Le Difese (2001) had a very modest market release, with the entire case production (a mere 500) being distributed to local Bolgheri wine bars. However, with the release of the 2003 vintage, IWM enjoyed the distinction of becoming the first US retailer to introduce Le Difese, and we remain one of the only sources today. Le Difese doesn’t take Sassicaia as a model, being predominantly Sangiovese (90%) with a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). It’s a different animal altogether, a sibling that’s made itself a first label to many. This is the essence of Toscana, packaged in everyday, enticingly affordable luxury.

Wines that Impress: Montalcino to the Moon

5. Fuligni 2005 Rosso di Montalcino Ginestreto…$32.55
(Toscana—Sangiovese Grosso)
You don’t see many single-vineyard Brunellos, let alone Rosso di Montalcinos, that bear the imprimatur of a defined site. Fuligni’s Ginestreto bottling is one of few to endow the modest and unassuming Rosso di Montalcino DOC with the distinction of a cru interpretation. And you couldn’t ask for a more qualified producer to take on this challenge. The estate has an impeccable vintage record, a profound testament to the deft and artisanal approach of Roberto Guerrini and oenologist Paolo Vagaggini. Guerrini, a professor of criminal law with a passion for Brunello, is noted for producing one of the zone’s most elegant and refined Brunellos—even in challenging vintages. Guerrini and Vagaggini have authored a stylistic orientation that marries elements of traditional and modern viticultural approaches, with an aging process that reflects this integration: Ginestreto is aged for a period of six to nine months in a combination of barrique and cask, followed by a brief period of additional maturation in Slavonian oak. Guerrini’s guiding principle keeps things paradoxically basic: He simply likes to make wines that he can enjoy with friends.

6. Terre del Principe 2003 Pallagrello Bianco Le Sèrole…$35.48
(Campania—Pallagrello Bianco)
It was something of a cold case—the two Pallagrellos, Bianco and Nero—were thought to have been vanquished by phylloxera in the early 20th century. That theory was thrown out when lawyer Peppe Mancini chanced upon some prephylloxera Pallagrello vines. Mancini put his discovery into motion quickly, becoming a full-time practitioner of Campania’s ancient varietals (the Pallagrellos and their fellow Campanian, Casavecchia). The recovered Pallagrello Bianco is one of only a few Italian grapes to derive from a vine that produces both white and black berries. Thought to be a relation of the Pilleolata grape, its profile renders it akin to the white varietals of the Rhône, particularly Viognier, which it references in its flavors of peach and apricot. The single-vineyard Le Sèrole derives from slightly overripe hand-harvested grapes, a state that is maximized in the wine’s fermentation regimen, which is conducted in barrique, a medium that does not compromise Pallagrello’s varietal expression.

7. Movia 2005 Lunar…$36.30
(Slovenia/Friuli—Ribolla Gialla)
Experience what happens to Friuli’s long-lived white grape in the hands of the world’s leading biodynamic producer. Ribolla Gialla has long been revered by the iconoclasts of Friuli. In Lunar, a pure Ribolla, the dynamic and accomplished Ales Kristancic of Movia desired to be totally hands off, allowing the wine, in a manner of speaking, to make itself. This by no means implies that the wine is simple to produce, as such a natural approach requires a command of both traditional and biodynamic principles: Ales ages the wine on the lees inside small Slavonian oak barrels for over two years without racking, a viticultural decision that produces the wine’s unusual coloring. With its ciderlike hue, this striking beauty calls immediate and dramatic attention to its esoteric nature. Compelling and utterly unique, this is the essence of Ribolla—raw and resplendent—pure wonder under the Friulian moon.

8. Canalicchio di Sopra 2001 Brunello di Montalcino…$59.95
(Toscana—Sangiovese Grosso)
In a modern-minded world, it is gratifying to know there remains small producers like Canalicchio di Sopra, a family-owned estate that adheres to a predominantly traditional conception of Brunello, producing value-oriented Brunellos with the ability to age. In fact, the Brunellos of the estate largely reflect the wine's historical paradigm, a character derived, in part, through cask aging. Also, as Canalicchio’s 15 hectares lie at a high altitude and receive limited exposure to the Mediterranean influence of Montalcino—hallmarks of the area's northern zone—the wines display this area’s perfumed aromatics. The heralded vintage of 2001, a contemporary classic of form and expression, afforded an estate like Canalicchio di Sopra the perfect context in which to champion its structural virtues. Indeed, at this stage, the wine requires a few years of cellaring in order to flesh out its trademark dark fruit and earthy characteristics, and realize the brilliant integration that it promises.

Collector Wines: Cru Barolo to Amarone Jr.

9. Tenuta San Guido 2005 Guidalberto…$61.97
(Toscana—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese)
Moving up the ranks of Tenuta San Guido, we meet with second-label Guidalberto, the closest one can get to the flagship. Much like Le Difese, however, Guidalberto operates fairly independently of its blue-chip sibling, though it boasts the same creative director, Sassicaia’s Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta (assisted by his stepson, Sebastiano Rosa). Sourced from a site adjacent to the Sassicaia vineyards, Guidalberto is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (45%), and Sangiovese (10%). While only in its fifth vintage year, it has already acquired a significant following—incited not only by its relationship to Sassicaia, but by the approachability it affords upon release. In 2005, that source of attraction is already there to great effect—compelling current drinking with its layers of black currant, earth, and well-integrated oak, interwoven with a sophisticated mineral streak. It’s a wine to relish in the immediate tense—something that the ’04 Sassicaia just can’t deliver right now. (read more about Sassicaia…)

10. Radikon 2002 Ribolla Gialla…$74.25 (1.0L)
(Friuli—Ribolla Gialla)
All winemaking is attended by risk, but Stanislao Radikon operates in a world where virtually all is left to nature. Ironically, this daring and almost willful abandon is rooted in traditional Friulian winemaking—extended maceration periods, the use of large oak barrels, and manual harvesting. Implicit in this historically accurate recovery, of course, is the rejection of chemical pesticides and temperature-controlled fermentation. Such elements make for a pretty extreme approach as is. Now take the 2002 vintage: Instead of his “normal” maceration period of 30 days, Radikon extended it to two months in order to accommodate the vintage’s nature. He didn’t stop there, though. The 2002 vintage represents his first vinification sans the addition of sulfites, an omission that renders his wines unstable yet also contributes to their provocative and genuine expression. Oh, and one more thing: 2002 marked his first use of a 1-liter bottle with a narrow neck, designed to complement the cork’s width. So, what did this ultimate creative risk deliver? Quite simply, a Ribolla that rocks in exotic and honeyed bliss, delivering several complex layers that transform as they evolve in the glass. Hands-off Ribolla, indeed. Serve at room temperature and be transported. (read more…)

11. Clerico 2003 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra…$85.95
(Piemonte—Nebbiolo)
Domenico Clerico's extreme modernism has made him a polarizing and incendiary figure. But for those who relish his style, the 2003 vintage provided the most dramatic of complements, particularly for the house flagship, Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra—derived from one of the most celebrated crus in Barolo’s Monforte d’Alba. While Clerico aged Ginestra for a period of time exclusively in 700-liter tonneaux, the current aging regimen entails maturation in barrique (90% new) for a period of 18 to 20 months, followed by six to eight months of bottle age. It is important to note here, though, that Clerico has modified his overall approach in recent vintages, extending macerations and reducing his reliance on barrique. (For a brief period of time, Clerico employed new barrique exclusively for all of his wines.) Given the nature of the ’03 vintage, Clerico shortened maceration periods for his Barolos in order to avoid increasing the tannin levels reached during the ripening stage. While the tannins are undeniably assertive on the wine’s finish, the wine offers a beautiful and compelling bouquet of dark fruit, cherry liqueur, spice, and toasty oak. On the palate, that fruit is concentrated and dense, implying a near future of immense gratification. If you open it now, allow for several hours’ decanting in order to approach that state. (read more…)

12. Romano Dal Forno 2002 Valpolicella…$93.87
(Veneto—Corvina, Croatina, Rondinella, Oseleta)
No one can do Quintarelli—not even his best student, Romano Dal Forno. So, what was this talented protégé to do? For many who adore Amarone, what Dal Forno did was to create the wine’s defining and ultimate style—an opulent, transfixing, and blissful production that, just like Quintarelli, is without equal. As one would expect, his Valpolicellas are made in the same mode, realizing a state that places them in their own little corner of the Veneto. In the 2002 vintage, however, Dal Forno stepped beyond his own stylistic extremes. While he has always crafted his Valpolicella with a portion of dried fruit, in ’02 that’s all he used, an upgrade that brings the wine’s very designation into question. He partially maintained its identity by using the estate’s younger vines, his regular source for the Valpolicella. In the case of both wines, he employs Corvina (60 to 70 percent), Croatina (10 to 15 percent), Rondinella (10 to 15 percent), and a minor amount of Oseleta (his replacement for Molinara). The ’02 Valpolicella, as indicated, enters a new state for the wine—yet, for all its effusiveness, it possesses a formidable, almost imposing structure. If anything, that’s what we can fault here: In order to experience that delirious gratification, we’re going to have to hold off for a few years as it evolves in a very special corner of our cellars.

IWM Wine Experience

View All of IWM's Upcoming Events...

Why Ratings & Drink Terms Fail: Taste the Reality
March 8, 2008 1:00–3:00 p.m., $75.00

Do you check out the rating of a wine before you buy it? Does a 90 or better give you the go-ahead, while an 84 finds you putting it back on the shelf? This approach to wine buying is undeniably widespread and popular—but not one that IWM can really endorse, as we’ve found that it may dissuade wine enthusiasts from some tremendous experiences.

Ratings, reviews, and drink terms are, by their very nature, limited by time and circumstance. At IWM, we spend a fairly significant amount of time with an individual wine, basing our impressions not only on our experiences as tasters, but on the reception it receives at daily tastings and events. In the case of cellar wines, we have the luxury of following their maturation closely, documenting specific, nuanced changes. In this special tasting, we’re giving you a rare and unique opportunity to discover instances wherein a wine was not evaluated in either the appropriate context or phase of its evolution.

Take, for example, Quintarelli’s 1999 Valpolicella Superiore. Guests at IWM events have been struck by this baby Amarone’s resemblance to a fully-fledged Amarone. When they return to the ratings-conscious world and find that such a wine merited, in one instance, only 85 points, they are stunned. Our exploration will also highlight Mascarello’s 2001 Barolo, Gravner’s 2001 Ribolla Anfora, Ruggeri's NV Prosecco, and a selection of other misunderstood and underappreciated wines. Taste how the scores, reviews, and drink terms have been failing your palate.

Participants Receive:
• Tasting Booklet that includes IWM’s proprietary notes
• Sampling of regional foods prepared by IWM chefs paired with each wine tasted

To learn more about IWM's Studio Regionale Saturday Tasting Series or to make a reservation over the phone, contact Michann Thompson at 212.473.2323, x106.

Passion on the Vine:
A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart of Italy
by Sergio Esposito