February
2, 2008
Barolo Riserva Vertical to Piemonte's Sweet Treasures
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
For almost twenty years, I’ve had a ritual when
driving to Barolo. I would drive to the Barolo Alba road
and at Serralunga take the high road. When I passed the
little hamlet, I’d stop at the coffee shop in the
square and then, fully armed with an espresso and my cell
phone, I’d park my car at a panoramic overlook and
review my daily schedule, setting up appointments and regretfully
canceling others. Surrounding me as I called, sipped, and
made notes was the splendor of Piemonte—across from
me lay the vineyards and town of Monforte d’Alba
and the Italian Alps rising in the distance over its shoulder;
behind me rose the gleaming castle; below me rested the
famous vineyards of Cascina Francia, Margheria, and Mariondino;
and far off in front of me shone the glinting village of
La Morra. Seated in my car, I felt snug in the pastoral
beauty of Piemonte. I saw everything, I thought; king of
my domain, I was omniscient.
One day, about five years ago, my friend and wine liaison
Stefano called me. “I want you to visit this outstanding
Barolo producer,” he said. When I asked who it was,
he refused to tell me. “Trust me, trust me, trust
me,” he said, waving off my demands for a name.
Stefano and I drove that drive on the Barolo Alba road,
but when we got to the overlook, he didn’t park.
Instead, he took a sharp right into a little driveway that
led to a small estate. I’d seen that driveway many
times—in fact, I’d spoken to the house’s
owner when he’d asked me to move my car out of the
way a couple of times over the years.
“Don’t park here,” I said to Stefano, “these people
don’t like it.”
“Stai zito,” he responded—shut up—and he drove down
the driveway to the small estate. We parked, and Franco Massolino, the owner
of the estate, met us. Franco is—there’s no other way to say it—an
exceptionally good-looking man. Mid-thirties and tall, with short, cropped
hair, he’s got a model’s looks, but is also very reserved, quiet,
and exceptionally gracious. He led us down the stairs, through the door, and
into a very unassuming cellar. One squat room—nothing to write home about—it
was markedly unexceptional. Then he led us through a courtyard and up a stairway
to a similarly stark tasting room—just a table, six chairs, a counter,
and a door to the home where the family lives. Completely unremarkable.
But then we tasted the wine. The terroir of each Barolo
commune is delineated in its wines, endowing each area
with a certain identity. Serralunga is known for wines
of great structure and depth, as well as a subtlety that
verges on the profoundly intellectual. As soon as I tasted
Franco’s wine, I realized that I was tasting a wine
that reflected Franco himself—gracious and reserved—but
also recalled that spectacular view that I saw each and
every time I parked my car at the base of the castle—a
wine brimming with the verdant, unfolding valley that is
Piemonte. These wines were as pretty and as memorable as
that view. I bought out all of Franco’s back vintages.
We’re proud to offer a broad selection of the wines
of Franco Massolino this week. I hope that you taste them
and see what you’ve been missing—these wines
are not to be overlooked.
My best,
Sergio
For more accounts of Italian
wine, food
and life reserve my new book:
Passion On The Vine: a Memoir of Food,
Wine, and
Family in the Heart of Italy
Barolo
Riserva Vertical: Massolino Cru Barolo
Vigna Rionda is one of Barolo’s most eminent sites,
initially acquiring stature through Bruno Giacosa’s
interpretations in the ’70s and ’80s. To a
certain degree, however, these marked achievements have
overshadowed the prodigious efforts of the site’s
current interpreter—Massolino. One of Piemonte’s
most respected traditionalist producers, Massolino produced
only a Barolo normale for several years (first released
in 1911), adhering to the original conception of Barolo—a
multisource effort. Over the years, however, Massolino
acquired significant holdings in Serralunga d’Alba,
precipitating its movement into the single-vineyard genre,
most notably through its flagship bottling, Vigna Rionda.
This week, we’re giving you the opportunity to experience
one of wine’s recent phenomenons—Piemonte’s
Vintage Streak—in the context of a riserva offering.
This vertical takes the Vintage Streak experience to another
level, showcasing the heights attained by Massolino’s riserva efforts.
While the term “riserva” is often used gratuitously,
in the case of Massolino it designates the real thing.
Made in vintages of the highest caliber, Massolino’s
Vigna Rionda is aged for 3½ to 4 years in Slavonian
oak, while the normale bottling sees 2 to 2½ years
in oak. It is known for being a wine of longevity, realizing
its complex persona over an extended maturation period.
We are offering both this cru selection and Massolino’s
traditional cuvée.
We frequently approach this streak through a simple breakdown
of the vintages, classifying them into two camps—structured
and ripe. In this offering, 1999 and 2001 represent the
former, while 1998 and 2000 cover the latter. While this
general analysis may provide a starting point, it is crucial
to remember that a wine such as Vigna Rionda holds true
to the concept of a Barolo riserva—evolving
over the course of two decades and beyond, during which
it intensifies dramatically. If it’s immediate accessibility
you’re looking for, however, you’ll find it
in Massolino’s 2003 Barolo normale. In
2003, the Massolino estate produced only one bottle—a
Barolo cuvée. This is hardly Barolo as normal, though,
as it contains the best grapes from Massolino’s cru
vineyards. An exceptional value, this wine offers a copious
amount of soft, red fruit from the hot vintage, accompanied
by tannins that exert a fairly demonstrative grip.
2004 Sneak Peak: Bruno Giacosa Finesse
Is Giacosa Piemonte’s greatest producer? While we
aren’t given to making statements like this, it is
fair to say that no producer has consistently accomplished
what Bruno has for over six decades across such an extensive
portfolio. More importantly, he continues to deliver, and
the 2004 vintage may prove to be the pinnacle of his efforts.
Sure—his Barolos and Barbarescos will undoubtedly
go down as benchmarks for the 2004 vintage, but his mastery
of the noble Nebbiolo grape is currently available in a
lighter wine of shorter-term aging—Nebbiolo d’Alba.
You don’t have to wait for the release of the more
mature Barolos and Barbarescos to experience the promise
of this vintage. These wines already deliver a Burgundian-like
finesse that is strikingly reminiscent of the feminine
nature of Giacosa’s Barbarescos, but delivered at
a more accessible price point.
The two Nebbiolo bottlings he offers differ principally
with respect to their composition: The Valmaggiore derives
from one of the premier vineyard sites in Roero (located
north of Barolo), while the cuvée is sourced from
several vineyard sites in the region. Valmaggiore offers
a more structured, muscular persona with respect to its
tannins. The nose is riveting in its bouquet of violet
and rose, while the palate privileges an herbal quality,
underlain by notes of red fruit, tar, and smoke. The Nebbiolo
cuvée is also quite floral on the nose, an impression
that is enhanced by a cherry-like liqueur element. On the
palate, that rose petal dimension lingers, intermingled
with cinnamon and licorice. This is drinking incredibly
well at present—delivering Nebbiolo finesse at its
best. It’s a tremendous expression to purchase by
the case (or two).
Giacosa Nebbiolo Offerings:
Bruno
Giacosa 2004 Nebbiolo
d'Alba…$39.90
Bruno
Giacosa 2004 Nebbiolo d'Alba
Valmaggiore…$44.90
Piemonte's
Cult Passito: Forteto della Luja
You won’t find Nebbiolo at the artisanal state of
Forteto della Luja, but you will discover some of the region’s
most highly regarded expressions of Moscato, including
a cult passito version—commissioned by Giacomo
Bologna, the creator of famed “Super-Barbera” Ai
Suma—that launched the estate’s place on the
universal market. Its success is understandable, given
that owner Giancarlo Scaglione devoted a period of his
university study to the Moscato grape. Forteto della Luja
also captured the attention of wine producers throughout
the world in 2005, becoming the first Piemontese winery
to run wholly on solar energy.
Forteto
della Luja 2004 Brachetto Pian dei Sogni (.375ml)…$44.69
This rare interpretation of Piemonte’s Brachetto
grape is one of very few that makes it to the States. While
often vinified as a sparkler, Brachetto also performs in
still mode, and is most frequently found in the company
of Italy’s sweet set. In both its sweet (which include passito bottlings)
and still versions, Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG offers
a restrained level of sweetness, rendering it the ideal
accompaniment to Piemonte’s chocolate and hazelnuts.
It typically offers a light, fragrant rose scent followed
by suggestions of strawberry and raspberry.
Forteto
della Luja 2005 Moscato d'Asti Piasa…$16.22
This effervescent delight offers an explosion of lychee,
citrus, and apple on both the nose and palate—a sensory
pleasure that will have you reconsidering this misunderstood
wine. Both Asti Spumante (referred to as Asti following
its 1994 upgrade to DOCG status) and Moscato d’Asti
are vinified from the Moscato grape, a variety that is
cultivated in several wine regions, serving as the primary
foundation of several dessert wines.
Forteto
della Luja 2004 Moscato Passito (.375ml)…$49.50
Another rare find, this bottling offers a more serious
take on Moscato, delivering a sublime lush and honeyed
expression. Wines derived from the passito method—in
which the grapes are allowed to dry on mats or in a hanging
position—may be made in a sweet style (Vin Santo
and Recioto della Valpolicella) or vinified dry (Amarone),
retaining a suggestion of sweetness from the concentrated
fruit.
Forteto
della Luja 2004 Le Grive…$38.50
Barbera and Pinot Nero? It may be a rather anomalous composition,
but Forteto della Luja seems to be on to something with
its Le Grive bottling. The wine’s inherently fruity
character is sublimated by a funky, earthy dimension and
bright acidity, projecting an offbeat character with undeniable
charm.
Assorted
Sampler: A Taste of Piemonte
 While
Piemonte’s Vintage Streak offers a truly unparalleled
experience in the region’s terroir and producers, there
is much to be excited about beyond these prized years and—truth
be told—beyond Barolo as well. While ’03 proved
to be a challenging vintage, producers like Massolino turned
it to the consumer’s advantage, giving us a Barolo normale of
rare approachability, intensity, and provenance. It’s
a spectacular value, and a testament to how producers of
quality prevail over a vintage’s extremes and idiosyncracies.
The Vintage Streak looks to have some serious competition from the 2004 vintage,
given current assessments. Get a preview of what’s to come with one of
the region’s foremost names—Giacosa. His Nebbiolos surpass many Barolos,
rendering this taste of Piemonte truly a taste of pleasures forthcoming….
Piemonte’s sweeter side may be hovering in the wings of Barolo’s
power performance, but the highly sought-after bottlings of Forteto della Luja
bring it front and center with aromatic grace and engaging charm. Forteto’s
Le Grive strikes an intriguing match between the King of Food, Barbera and the
Heartbreak Grape, Pinot Noir. These two hit it off quite well, creating a concentrated
expression that captures Barbera’s trademark acidity and Pinot Noir’s
stirring aromatics.
Taste of Piemonte Six-Bottle Sampler:
Massolino
2003 Barolo…$57.75
Bruno
Giacosa 2004 Nebbiolo d'Alba
Valmaggiore…$44.90
Forteto
della Luja 2005 Moscato d'Asti
Piasa…$16.22
Forteto
della Luja 2004 Brachetto Pian dei
Sogni (.375ml)…$44.69
Forteto
della Luja 2004 Le Grive…$38.50
Bruno
Giacosa 2004 Nebbiolo
d'Alba…$39.90
Taste
of Piemonte
Sampler …$241.96*
(which includes Piemonte
Newsletter)
*Free Delivery in Manhattan
Wine Experiences at IWM
A Taste
of International Varietals in Italy
February 9,
2008 1:00–3:00 p.m.,
$50.00
While there are more than 2,000 varietals
native to
Italy, international grapes—including
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet
Franc—have long played a major
role on the Italian scene. While the
success
achieved by the Super-Tuscans
(which went outside DOC regulations, blending
Sangiovese with grapes such as
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) validated
Italy’s innate ability to work
with foreign grapes, Toscana isn’t
the only
region that possesses an
affinity with the international crew. In
fact, many other
zones offer their
own “Super” wines. Some
appellations
even boast a longstanding
history with Bordeaux varietals that has
authored several eminent blends.
Others, like Chardonnay and Syrah, have been
introduced by revolutionary producers
who saw the potential they possessed in a
particular
terroir. Take this opportunity
to experience the Italian translations of
some of your
favorite varietals.
A Study of Italy's Thinking
Whites
February 23, 2008 1:00–3:00 p.m.,
$75.00
A white that drinks like a red? A Trebbiano
that has achieved cult status? Winemaking
techniques that predate Christ? These
tantalizing subjects will be
discussed—and tasted—in IWM's
most unusual seminar dedicated to Italy's
quality whites.
In the world of
wine, white tends to take a back seat to red.
Oftentimes, this status is linked to issues
of longevity and complexity that affect the
credibility of the category. However,
there are certainly exceptions to this
generalization. The beautiful, pale golden
wines of Italy—fresh, interesting, and
replete with terroir—can be found from
coast to coast. These deeply flavored wines
accurately express the true characteristics
of their respective regional grapes. And yet,
one is tempted to ask: is there a white
equivalent of traditional Barolo that offers
unyielding depth, complexity, and longevity
in both youth and maturity? Are there whites
that can withstand aeration in a decanter for
hours as well as challenge the seasoned
palate? This tasting of Gravner,
Valentini, Radikon, Quintarelli, Movia,
and other exceptions to over generalized
whites should prove any lingering skeptic
wrong and help others see the value of
cellared whites.
Participants Receive:
• Tasting Booklet that includes
IWM’s
proprietary notes
• Sampling of regional foods prepared
by IWM
chefs paired with each wine tasted
To learn more about IWM's Studio Regionale
Saturday
Tasting Series, or to
make a reservation over the phone, contact
Michann
Thompson at 212.473.2323,
x106.
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