January
27, 2008
Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva to Fubbiano Vin Santo
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
Franco Biondi-Santi, the “gentleman of Montalcino,” has
an unusual relationship with time. You'd probably expect
an Italian winemaker to renounce the kind of rush-rush,
rat-race, New York–minute life that most of us live.
Yet Franco’s idea of time stretches beyond a simple
belief in platitudes such as “there's a season for
everything,” “good things come to those who
wait,” or “wine gets better with age.” For
Franco, time is more than a cliché—it’s
an extended adventure in constant evolution.
Given his family history, it’s not surprising that
Franco understands the passing of time as inherently valuable
and verging on the mystical. He is, after all, the grandson
of Clemente Santi, the man who basically invented Brunello—now
the most internationally beloved Italian wine—and
the man who made Brunello to last thirty, forty, fifty
years—and beyond. Clemente passed his passion for
wine and winemaking to his son, Tancredi, whose Janus-like
vision referenced the future as well as the rich history
of Italian wines when he cultivated both a market for Italian
wine and the vines that his family had grown since the
late nineteenth century. The blood of these two men runs
in Franco’s veins. You could say that wine is in
his DNA.
Franco is now in his mid-eighties. You’d think that
he’d start to delve into his extensive collection
of wines, some of which date back to the late 1800s. You’d
think he’d be ready to pop the cork on his collection
of 1955 Brunello di Montalcino, his greatest wine. You’d
think he’d recognize that time is short, that time
waits for no man, and that time is most definitely no longer
on his side.
You'd be wrong. Two summers ago, I had lunch with Franco.
We drank a 1970 and a 1971 Brunello, and he opened a 1998,
but we didn't drink much of it. We took a sip of it, but
not more than a sip. Franco then made a surprising suggestion—one
that runs counter to the conventional wisdom that a wine
that has been open more than a couple of days should be
thrown away. He suggested that I should keep the bottle
open—uncorked and exposed to air— for one year,
during which I should taste it every few weeks. So I did
just that. I took that bottle, and I kept it in a cupboard
in my kitchen. Every six weeks I'd have journalists, friends,
or collectors come over: I'd pour them a drop and ask how
long they thought the wine had been open. Most would say, “One
or two days.” They were wrong, of course, and over
time Franco had made his point: his wines have the structure
to last, changing subtly—transforming, evolving,
but moving with time, not against it.
Every time I see Franco, warm, caring, and ever the gentleman,
his hands frail and white, he makes the same suggestion. “Let’s
open a bottle of the 1955,” he says, “but not
yet. Let’s wait ten or fifteen years.” I may
be impatient, but I see Franco’s point. After all,
you wouldn’t want to rush things.
This week, we’re proud to offer the 2001 Biondi-Santi
Brunello Annata and Riserva—wines for you to uncork
and enjoy in your own sweet time.
My best,
Sergio
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Featured
Wine: Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva
While expectations are set high for 2004 Brunello, as
an enthusiast, you can’t look ahead without considering
the importance of this upcoming release from 2001. Biondi-Santi
Brunello riservas from 1888, 1891, 1925, 1945, 1955, 1964,
and 1975 are among the most revered Brunellos ever to be
produced—and the 2001 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva
belongs on this eminent list. The structure of the vintage,
terroir, and high altitude of the vineyard worked in concert
to realize extended ageability. At 86 years of age, this
is one of the most powerful Brunellos released under the
highly discriminating eye of Franco Biondi-Santi.
The Biondi-Santi Riserva is made only in select
vintages from vines ranging between 25 and 80 years of
age, while the Biondi-Santi Annata (Brunello normale) is
derived from vines between 10 and 15 years of age. Grapes
for both wines are sourced primarily from the Greppo plot
(the birthplace of Brunello), which consists of stony galestro
soil and tufaceous clay. However, it is the altitude—ranging
from 400 to 500 meters—that accounts for the wine’s
trademark aromatics and acidity. The grapes undergo fermentation
in traditional Slavonian oak for 18 days. The juice is
then transferred to large oak casks of 800 to 7,000 liters
in order to age for a period of two to three years. It
is released six years after the harvest.
Unfortunately, a mere 650 cases of this aristocratic riserva
are crafted, with only a small percentage making it to
the States. As with the 1888, this riserva might very well
realize an evolution of one hundred years, but it's at
the thirty-year mark that this wine will exhibit its tertiary
personality. It is for this reason that Franco desires
these wines to evolve with collectors of patience—those
who understand that a Biondi-Santi Brunello requires age
to evoke all the subtle nuances that distinguish its lean
yet majestic character. We are also including the annata,
which is more accessible with respect to both drinkability
and price, yet demands another 12 years before it’s
uncorked.
Biondi-Santi 2001 Brunello Annata and Riserva
Offering:
Biondi-Santi
2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Annata…$158.00**
Biondi-Santi 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva…$498.00**
Biondi-Santi 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (12
Bottles)…$5,976.00**
**Indicates Pre-Arrival
*Free Delivery in Manhattan
Value in Fubbiano
Leaving Montalcino, we continue our Tuscan exploration, driving northwest
toward the coast with a stop in the Lucca hills. Here, near the ancient village
of San Gennaro, winemaking dates back to the 14th century. While the craft
continues to thrive, few of the wines appear on the export market. The artisanal
wines of Fattoria di Fubbiano’s Gian Piero de Andreis reflect an organic,
free-spirited approach that includes the use of barrique and rare varietals—elements
that don't adhere to the rules established by the Colline Lucchesi DOC.
Fattoria
di Fubbiano 2003 I Pampini…$39.19
(Sangiovese, Teroldego)
What is Teroldego, the obscure northern red grape of Trentino, doing in Toscana?
Its small, yet important contribution endows the wine with structure, weight,
and aromatics. The use of French barrique during the fermentation and maturation
processes supports the wine’s concentrated black fruit and spice. Under
200 cases of this unusual Super-Tuscan make it to the States, rendering this
exceptional value a rare find.
Fattoria
di Fubbiano 2004 San Gennaro…$29.57
(Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo)
This single-vineyard bottling is distinguished by mature, hand-selected grapes
sourced from a south-facing vineyard. Dark ruby red in color and round in body,
this wine delivers persistent notes of red berries and plums and a touch of
earth. It serves admirably as an everyday food wine; however, several hours
of decanting relieve its austere character.
Fattoria
di Fubbiano 2001 Vin Santo (.500ml)…$57.75
(85% Vermentino, 15% other white grapes)
Vin Santo, or "holy wine," is typically made in the Chianti Classico
zone, though it can also make a statement in other regions when produced by
the right hands. This is one of those standout wines, though it varies from
the norm in its use of Vermentino grapes—rather than Malvasia or Trebbiano— which
are air-dried, pressed, and aged in small barrels for three years. The result—which
you will find only at IWM—is a decadent, sweet wine that offers balanced
notes of honey, caramel, and orange peel. Skip the biscotti, and pair it with
an aged Pecorino cheese.
Fubbiano
Six-Bottle Sampler...$253.02*
(2 of
each, from the
above offering)
*Free Delivery in Manhattan
Three Standout Vintages, Three
Unique
Producers
Brunello may begin with its founding father—Biondi-Santi, but
it doesn't end there. With over 250 producers situated across numerous subzones
in the Montalcino region, there is much to explore (and a lot to stay away
from). The Sangiovese grape is particularly sensitive to location and viticultural
technique, articulating the nuances of microclimate, soil, altitude, producer
style, and vintage variation. This classic Brunello sampler represents three
distinct subzones via the work of a trio of producers in exceptional vintages.
Il Palazzone, located in the heart of Montalcino and within close proximity
of the Biondi-Santi estate, sources grapes from vines at an altitude of 480
meters, a height that contributes to the aromatics and finesse of the wine.
Only 400 cases of the largely overlooked 1998 vintage were produced, making
this a rare find. Heading due south towards Sant'Angelo in Colle, the more
established Talenti estate sources fruit from vines at a lower altitude, providing
for a more concentrated expression that is intensified by the ripeness of the
1999 vintage. Finally, Poggio di Sotto, located in the southeast zone of Castelnuovo
dell'Abate, works in the middle ground, offering an expressive nose and weight
on the palate.
This exploratory six-bottle sampler illuminates the nature of classic Brunello.
The wines are accompanied by A Taste of Toscana, an educational supplementary
piece that further explains Montalcino and the wines of Toscana.
Exploratory Brunello Sampler Offering:
Il
Palazzone 1998 Brunello di
Montalcino…$84.15
Talenti
1999 Brunello di Montalcino…$60.50
Poggio
di Sotto 2001 Brunello di
Montalcino…$112.75
Brunello
Vertical Sampler (2 of each)
…$514.80*
(Includes
A
Taste of Toscana Supplement)
*Free Delivery in Manhattan
IWM Wine Experiences: New Saturday Tastings
A
Taste of
International Varietals in
Italy
February 9,
2008 1:00–3:00 p.m.,
$50.00
While there are more than 2,000 varietals
native to
Italy, international grapes—including
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet
Franc—have long played a major
role on the Italian scene. While the
success
achieved by the Super-Tuscans
(which went outside DOC regulations, blending
Sangiovese with grapes such as
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) validated
Italy’s innate ability to work
with foreign grapes, Toscana isn’t
the only
region that possesses an
affinity with the international crew. In
fact, many other
zones offer their
own “Super” wines. Some
appellations
even boast a longstanding
history with Bordeaux varietals that has
authored several eminent blends.
Others, like Chardonnay and Syrah, have been
introduced by revolutionary producers
who saw the potential they possessed in a
particular
terroir. Take this opportunity
to experience the Italian translations of
some of your
favorite varietals.
A
Study of Italy's Thinking Whites
February 23, 2008 1:00–3:00 p.m.,
$75.00
A white that drinks like a red? A Trebbiano
that has achieved cult status? Winemaking
techniques that predate Christ? These
tantalizing subjects will be
discussed—and tasted—in IWM's
most unusual seminar dedicated to Italy's
quality whites.
In the world of
wine, white tends to take a back seat to red.
Oftentimes, this status is linked to issues
of longevity and complexity that affect the
credibility of the category. However,
there are certainly exceptions to this
generalization. The beautiful, pale golden
wines of Italy—fresh, interesting, and
replete with terroir—can be found from
coast to coast. These deeply flavored wines
accurately express the true characteristics
of their respective regional grapes. And yet,
one is tempted to ask: is there a white
equivalent of traditional Barolo that offers
unyielding depth, complexity, and longevity
in both youth and maturity? Are there whites
that can withstand aeration in a decanter for
hours as well as challenge the seasoned
palate? This tasting of Gravner,
Valentini, Radikon, Quintarelli, Movia,
and other exceptions to over generalized
whites should prove any lingering skeptic
wrong and help others see the value of
cellared whites.
Participants Receive:
• Tasting Booklet that includes
IWM’s
proprietary notes
• Sampling of regional foods prepared
by IWM
chefs paired with each wine tasted
To learn more about IWM's Studio Regionale
Saturday
Tasting Series or
to make a reservation over the phone, contact
Michann Thompson at 212.473.2323, x106.
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