January
19, 2008
Fontodi Flaccianello
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
Toscana’s Sangiovese is probably one of the two most well-known indigenous
Italian reds—the other is Piemonte’s Nebbiolo—but it is also
the red-headed stepchild of Italian winemaking. For decades, winemakers thought
that Sangiovese was too bold, too aggressive, too wild, too tumultuous, and
too vulgar. Add these impressions to the grape’s tragic role as the straw-bottle
Chianti of the pizza place, and you’ve got a grape that has endured many
a trying time.
Considered too forceful on its own, Sangiovese was often blended by vintners
in order to create not only the hackneyed Chiantis of yore, but also the Super-Tuscan
wines of the mid-twentieth century. Eventually, vintners began to employ Sangiovese
all on its own, but when they did, they hid the embarrassing name Sangiovese under
a prettier appellation. For example, the makers of great Montalcinos of the
1930s and ’40s called the grape Brunello, and later the grape
was rechristened Prugnolo Gentile for the Vino Nobiles of Montepulciano.
Both of these are nothing but the lowly Sangiovese dressed up in designer clothes.
In 1981, about the same time that Montevertine dared to make a stylish, elegant
and reserved version of Sangiovese in their Le Pergole Torte, one vintner,
Tenuta Fontodi, decided to make an unabashed Sangiovese wine. Fontodi thought
that the grape had been hiding in the shadows for too long, so the vintner
created a wine that was 100% full-throttle Sangiovese. This wine is Fontodi’s
Flaccianello, and it is as bold, wild, and pleasurable as Tuscan wine can be.
Coming from the heart of Toscana, Fontodi’s Flaccianello is full-bodied
and assertive. When I drink it, I can’t help but see a burstingly voluptuous
burlesque dancer, the kind of woman whose self-assurance and unconventional
beauty wins not merely my admiration but my heart. Fontodi’s Flaccianello
may surprise you—it’s not a shy, quiet wine—but more than
that, it will warm you to the full range of flavors that is Tuscan wine in
general and the Sangiovese grape in particular.
We’re proud to offer Fontodi’s Flaccianello from the stellar 2004
vintage. With proper age, this bottle will deliver a performance that will
scream out of the glass. You’ll never see Sangiovese the same way again.
My best,
Sergio
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Featured Wine: Fontodi 2004 Flaccianello
Fontodi is arguably the most consistent producer of
Sangiovese, delivering
the grape's finest singular expression year after year.
With the
2004 vintage, Fontodi
has realized its most structured and long-lived
interpretation of Flaccianello
yet—one that inspires direct comparison to its
Tuscan contemporary, the
2004 Sassicaia. Sure, it’s a media sensation:
everyone is taken with
Flaccianello—and it’s all too easy to
get swept up in the romantic
furor and rush into uncorking such a prized bottle.
Don’t be misled as the 2004 sleeping giant
needs time to show its bold, wild side. This
Flaccianello is
markedly different
from several recent vintages,
which allowed for early accessibility. We chose to
hold back on its release
in order to emphasize its uncompromising demand
for patience and the cellar.
Flaccianello figures among the earliest monovarietal
Sangiovese bottlings (labeled as IGT), which include
Cepparello, Percarlo, and the premiere effort, Le
Pergole Torte. While production reflects a
contemporary orientation,
it includes traditional approaches, the most notable
of which is a lengthy
period of maceration, which for Flaccianello is
typically 18 days.
There is no questioning the wine’s
credentials—and 2004 continues
its successful vintage history. What it doesn’t
do, however, is give
you the go-ahead to pull the cork now and experience
the opulence, silky tannins,
and extended finish that constitute the prevailing
critical impressions out
there. The 2004 Flaccianello is unquestionably a
wine of longevity—an
imposingly restrained, tightly woven, and taut
expression that is all
potential right now. It already conveys impressive
elegance, offsetting
its 14% alcohol level with qualities that have yet to
reveal themselves. Like
the 2004 Sassicaia, the 2004 Flaccianello is
not a wine of immediate
pleasure—the pleasure is all to
come.
Fontodi Flaccianello Offering:
Single Bottle: Fontodi
2004 Flaccianello…$108.10
Fontodi Case: Fontodi
2004 Flaccianello (12 bottles)…$1,297.20
Educational Sampler: Sangiovese's Range
Flaccianello resides in Sangiovese’s elite
contingent—driven by a
passion to convey the integrity and innate complexity of
the grape. A few selected
regions and producers deliver similar results with
Sangiovese. Our assorted sampler
this week introduces you to a few of IWM’s
favorite regional expressions
this noble varietal portrays in Tuscany.
This perfection in a bottle begins in
Montepulciano with Il Macchione’s ’99
Vino Nobile Riserva. The finesse-driven, structured
expression is without
rival in the Nobile realm—a class wine
for the enthusiast. Such
performances are rare to find, but the flawless 2004
Rosso di Montalcino from
Poggio di Sotto delivers. Does it tout its own praises
at $49.50? Absolutely.
While some Rossos are Brunello-like, this one drinks
like a Brunello, ironically
making it one of our most stunning values. With its
barrique influence and
extended maceration period, you’ll know why
La Mozza made a place for
Morellino on Sangiovese’s list. Make it your
everyday wine for the nightly
table. If your meal requires a more restrained and
classy pour, Cacchiano’s
2001 Chianti Classico Millenio is an ideal
complement.
With today well in hand, you’ll want to give
some thought to tomorrow
as well. You can go either way with Talenti’s
’99 Brunello: While
approachable now—per Talenti’s
trademark style and philosophy—it
still has several years ahead of it that will elicit further
complexity. Then,
of course, there is that ’04
Flaccianello—the one that should go
post haste into your cellar. When you open it a few
years from now, you’ll
be thankful that we held back and taught you
differently.
Exploring Sangiovese's
Range Six-Bottle Sampler (selections
include):
IWM Wine Experiences: New Saturday Tastings
Collector’s
Tasting Seminar:
How to Buy Brunello, Super-Tuscans, and Barolo
February 2,
2008 1:00–3:00 p.m.,
$95.00
You are cordially invited to join us for a
special tasting
dedicated to Italy’s
elite Super-Tuscans, Brunellos, Barolos,
and more.
This seminar provides a
compelling and rare tasting of
Italy’s most
sought-after wines, including
recent releases of the revolutionary
Super-Tuscan
Sassicaia;
Conterno’s benchmark Barolo
Granbussia; Poggio
di Sotto’s cult Brunello di
Montalcino;
Giacosa’s
single-vineyard Barbaresco Asili;
and
others. Which
wines are ready to uncork? Which belong in the
cellar? How long should they
be decanted? Why don't their scores matter?
Experience
their distinctions as you taste:
You’ll emerge
with a better sense of
the wines that are right for you and your
collection.
The insight
provided concerning vintage variation
and the pedigree of the wines makes this
presentation particularly rewarding
for serious wine enthusiasts and
collectors. Indeed,
all participants will
receive a complimentary IWM Cellar
Account
(for a
duration of one month)—an
industry-defining tool that enables you to
manage
and analyze significant aspects
of your cellar in a virtual environment.
Tasting notes,
maps, and additional materials will
complement the
sommelier’s presentation
and provide further insight into these iconic
bottlings.
Participants Receive:
• Tasting Booklet that includes
IWM’s
proprietary notes
• Sampling of regional foods prepared
by IWM
chefs paired with each wine tasted
• Complimentary one-month online cellar
account
A Taste of International Varietals in Italy
February 9,
2008 1:00–3:00 p.m.,
$50.00
While there are more than 2,000 varietals native to
Italy, international grapes—including
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet
Franc—have long played a major
role on the Italian scene. While the success
achieved by the Super-Tuscans
(which went outside DOC regulations, blending
Sangiovese with grapes such as
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) validated
Italy’s innate ability to work
with foreign grapes, Toscana isn’t the only
region that possesses an
affinity with the international crew. In fact, many other
zones offer their
own “Super” wines. Some appellations
even boast a longstanding
history with Bordeaux varietals that has
authored several eminent blends.
Others, like Chardonnay and Syrah, have been
introduced by revolutionary producers
who saw the potential they possessed in a particular
terroir. Take this opportunity
to experience the Italian translations of some of your
favorite varietals.
Participants Receive:
• Tasting Booklet that includes
IWM’s
proprietary notes
• Sampling of regional foods prepared
by IWM
chefs paired with each wine tasted
To learn more about IWM's Studio Regionale
Saturday
Tasting Series and the special Collector's
Tasting
Seminar, or
to make a reservation over the phone, contact
Michann Thompson at 212.473.2323, x106.
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