January 3, 2008
A Tribute to a Barolo Innovator
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
Champagne from Piemonte. Chardonnay in the
land of reds. Barrique-aged Nebbiolo
and Barbera. They may not sound significant
or revolutionary, but in the seventies,
these unprecedented efforts of the late
Valentino Migliorini helped change
the wine landscape in Barolo. Too often,
the trade is quick to credit experimental
producers such as Ratti, Altare, and Gaja
with introducing the innovations
that altered winemaking in the Langhe
Hills. Today, however, we celebrate Valentino.
His larger-than-life personality won
acceptance in the land most resistant
to change, and his portfolio of wines from
the Rocche dei Manzoni estate inspired
many of Piemonte’s great winemakers
to rethink Barolo and to think beyond
Nebbiolo.
In reflecting on Valentino Migliorini’s
innate rapport with Piemonte,
it is difficult to believe that his
instrumental influence began with a simple
visit to the land of Nebbiolo in the early
seventies. In seeking a selection
of reds to be served at his
Michelin-starred restaurant in Emilia-Romagna,
he fell in love not only with the wines,
but with the land and its people.
The fashionable Francophile—who might
be seen sporting a knotted pink sweater
around his neck— returned to Barolo
with the winemaking skills he had
acquired from his father. He purchased
prized vineyards throughout the Monforte
commune and began integrating his dynamic
presence into the landscape. He built
an opulent palace flanked by lion
statues—an impression equaled only,
perhaps, by his domain’s
Olympic-sized swimming pool. Upon entering the
estate, one might likely hear
Wagner’s “The Ride of the
Valkyries” blaring
in the background. That was
Valentino—large as life, glamorous,
dramatic.
His passion for Nebbiolo soon surpassed his
dedication to the regional dishes
of Emilia-Romagna, leading him to abandon
the renowned restaurant that had
brought him fame. He pursued his passion
for the vine through fearless experimentation,
going so far as to introduce plantings of
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—names
that were essentially taboo in
Piemonte’s insular world.
It is easy to cast Valentino as a modernist,
but to taste his early Barolos
from the late seventies and early eighties
is to experience Barolo’s
classic side. Valentino firmly attributed
his success to viticulture rather
than vinification: His respect for the land
always took precedence, and there
is no disputing the remarkable
ageworthiness of his wines—an element
that makes these some of the greatest
values in Piemonte. (Read on below to
learn which of the offerings should be
experienced now and which are appropriate
for the cellar.)
Valentino passed away at the age of 67 on
December 13. He will be greatly
missed. We are fortunate, however, that
Valentino will live on through his
wines and the profound influence he had
upon Piemonte’s wine culture.
A spirit as great as Valentino’s can
never really be lost.
My best,
Sergio
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Vintage Valentino Barolo
Redefining Modern
Situated in the Manzoni Soprani area of
Monforte
d'Alba, Rocche dei Manzoni was originally
established
in the 1700s, commencing its modern era in 1974
under the ownership of Valentino Migliorini
and his
wife, Jolanda. Valentino's viticultural
accomplishments
eventually earned him rare positioning in
Barolo's
patriarchy. Initial production included
Dolcetto, Barbera,
and Barolo, yet Valentino did not adhere to
either the
area's traditional varietal constituency or
practices. He
was the first to plant Chardonnay and
produced the
Langhe's premiere blend—the Bricco
Manzoni—in 1976, for which he employed
small French oak barrels. While Valentino's
Barolos
are regarded as modern, their level of
extraction and
significant barrique influence do not
preclude the
wines from exhibiting elegance and
expressing the
genuine character of the Nebbiolo grape. In
consequence, they defy the traditional
stereotype
attributed to the modern Piemonte producer.
Barolo Big 'd Big
While the vineyard’s name derives from
a former owner of Rocche dei Manzoni
(Bighi), this wine is proportioned in
accordance with its substantive designation.
Aged for three years in French oak followed
by an additional year of age prior
to release, Barolo Big ‘d Big offers a
concentrated character that provides
for ample weight on the palate, complemented
by sweet tannins. The Barolo Big ‘d
Big typically reaches a peak drinking stage
between seven and 12 years of age,
yet its structure provides for significant
long-term aging potential. The 1995
is quite the gem to be had here: The critics
advised drinking this wine by 2002—a
recommendation that far underestimated this
wine’s potential. Our tasting
history has established this remarkable
effort as a wine of longevity: We offer
here the chance to drink Barolo as it was
intended to be—with all the complexity
and nuance that age can bring.
Podere
Rocche dei Manzoni di
Valentino 1995 Barolo Big ‘d Big
$58.45
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1996
Barolo
Big ‘d Big $68.00
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999
Barolo
Big ‘d Big $125.00 (1.5L)
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino
2000 Barolo
Big ‘d Big $132.00 (1.5L)
Barolo ‘Vigna d'la Roul’
Vigna d’la Roul, Valentino’s
first single-vineyard Barolo, debuted
with the 1974 vintage and is regarded as
the most elegant of his Barolos. It
is aged in oak for a period of three years,
followed by an additional year
of maturation in bottle prior to release.
At present, the 1996 Vigna d’ la
Roul is generous in its provision of both
fruit and tannins. Additional aging
would be beneficial, facilitating the
development of the wine’s tertiary
dimension. While the 2000 offers
accessibility now, a few hours of decanting
is necessary in order to ameliorate the
wine’s austerity. Cellar this
one if you can, as patience will be
rewarded.
Podere Rocche dei
Manzoni di Valentino 1996 Barolo ‘Vigna
d' la
Roul’ $68.00
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1996
Barolo
‘Vigna d' la Roul’ $141.67
(1.5L)
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1998
Barolo
‘Vigna d' la Roul’ $129.50
(1.5L)*
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999
Barolo
‘Vigna d' la Roul’ $125.00
(1.5L)*
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 2000
Barolo
‘Vigna d' la Roul’ $132.00
(1.5L)
*Limited quantity available
Barolo ‘Vigna Cappella di Santo
Stefano’
Derived from the historic Cappella Santo
Stefano di Perno Vineyard, this wine
represents the cru dei cru of
Valentino's single-vineyard Barolos. As
with the other crus, the Santo Stefano is
aged in oak for a three-year period
and receives an additional year of maturation
in bottle prior to release. The
collection below represents Santo
Stefano’s career through various stages
of Barolo’s Vintage Streak. The
’95, ’96, and ’99 vintages
constitute the classics, while ’00 and
’98 offer ripeness. These
two groups, however, offer distinctions in
degree—the ’95 and ’96
vintages offer greater austerity than the
’99, while the ’00 delivers
greater opulence than the ’98.
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1995
Barolo
‘Vigna Cappella Santo
Stefano’ $63.25
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1995 Barolo
‘Vigna Cappella Santo Stefano’ $151.58 (1.5L)
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1996 Barolo
‘Vigna Cappella Santo
Stefano’ $151.58 (1.5L)
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1998
Barolo
‘Vigna Cappella Santo
Stefano’ $137.21 (1.5L)
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999
Barolo
‘Vigna Cappella Santo
Stefano’ $150.00 (1.5L)
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 2000
Barolo
‘Vigna Cappella Santo
Stefano’ $138.88 (1.5L)
Valentino's Landmark Effort: Pianpolvere
Barolo Soprano Riserva
Valentino nurtured a willingness to
experiment throughout his career, and
we look forward to various efforts,
including his sole Barolo effort from 2003
and the 2009 market release of his
long-awaited 1999 Barolo Riserva Madonna
Assunta La Villa—the label’s
debut bottling. The aforementioned
2003 marks the debut of Valentino’s
Barolo Riserva from Pianpolvere.
Valentino purchased the historic estate in
1999, with a view to crafting wines
of longevity. Resting at an average
elevation of 350 meters, the Pianpolvere
site is an exceptional one for Nebbiolo,
given both the microclimate concerned
and the soil’s capacity for water
retention. The ’99 Pianpolvere
Soprano—released only last
year—represents a joint effort between
the Fenocchio and Migliorini families (only
the aging was conducted exclusively
under Migliorini’s supervision).
The grapes were cultivated within the
context of a biodynamic farming regimen
and stored in small baskets in order to
facilitate ideal aeration. The aging
regimen entailed three years in French
barrique (specifically new Taransaud),
followed by one year in oak cask and three
years of bottle maturation. The
barrique influence is extremely
subtle—remarkably so, given the massive
character of the wine—a
quintessential expression from the structured
1999 vintage. This is one to watch over
time.
Pianpolvere
Soprano 1999 Barolo Riserva $170.50*
Pianpolvere Soprano 1999 Barolo Riserva
$354.75 (1.5L)*
Pianpolvere Soprano 1999 Barolo Riserva
$750.75 (3.0L)*
*Limited quantity available
Introduction to Valentino
Bricco Manzoni
Debuting in 1976, this pioneering blend of
Nebbiolo (80%) and Barbera (20%)
initiated
the Langhe Rosso movement, providing the
inspiration for wines such as Monprà and
Arte. Aged in barrique, it offers an
exemplary illustration of a defining element
of the Super-Piemonte concept, namely, the
attempt to soften or modify Nebbiolo’s
angular character with the addition of
Barbera. Allow this wine to breathe
for two hours and experience what these two
grapes offer in tandem. Full and
delicate at once, Bricco Manzoni displays
notes of red cherries, cocoa, and herbs.
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1998
Langhe Bricco Manzoni $30.94
Barbera d’Alba Sorito Mosconi
How often have you described a Barbera as
complex? Typically,
it serves as the quintessential
pizza-and-pasta wine—simple, yet a
thoroughly
accommodating partner in its high acidity.
Aged in barrique for 18 months,
this wine earns positioning at the
concentrated end of the Barbera spectrum.
It showcases the richness Barbera may
realize when treated in barrique, an
approach that also enhances the
wine’s tannic structure. Derived
from 70-year-old vines, this special
seven-year-old Barbera presents a modified
acid profile, providing for an opulent,
silky expression that carries layers
of red and black fruit, earth, and
chocolate. Food isn’t required to
tame this Barbera—a unique take on
the grape and a tremendous value.
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 2000
Barbera d' Alba Sorito Mosconi
$35.75
Quatr Nas
First released in 1996, Quatr
Nas—Bricco Manzoni’s younger
sibling—blends
Nebbiolo (50%) with Cabernet Sauvignon,
Pinot Nero, and Merlot. The term
Super-Piemonte initially
designated high-quality wines that were
made within established Piemontese
wine zones with varietals and/or techniques
that did not comply with the zone’s
regulations. While many Super-Tuscans are
unattainable, Super-Piemonte blends
remain approachable and reasonably priced.
The 1999 is a blockbuster—decant
it for two hours and experience the
individual character of each varietal as
the wine begins to open, eventually
exploding in a profusion of ripe fruit,
sweet tobacco, vanilla, and herbal notes.
It offers the perfect match
for a brick of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Podere
Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999 Langhe
Quatr Nas $52.94*
*Limited quantity available
Pinonero
Experience Piemonte’s take on Pinot
Noir. Valentino
began experimenting with Pinot Nero in
Lombardia for his efforts in the Brut
genre, yet further experimentation indicated
that the difficult grape took well
to the vineyards of Manzoni Soprani, the
source of his prized Barolo—Vigna
d’la Roul. A mere 500 cases are
produced, with very little of this
modest amount making it to the US. While
additional cellaring will reward
the patient, current drinking is also
irresistible when a brief aeration period
is allowed for, enabling the wine to display
notes of red berries, rose bush,
and oak, wrapped in soft, silky tannins.
Despite the varietal’s international
origins, this wine’s roots are all
Italian.
Podere
Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 2001 Langhe
Pinonero Damino $58.44
Chardonnay L'Angelica
While Chardonnay’s arrival in Piemonte
was initially met with opposition, it
is now an established varietal presence. Many
quality producers provide an
interpretation that reflects Italian
territorio, while simultaneously
retaining elements of the grape’s
inherent character. Valentino’s
Chardonnay provides a consummate example of
restrained oak aging, wherein the
barrique influence does not obscure the
grape’s natural persona. This
full-bodied white showcases northern fruit,
sweet spice, nuts, and floral
characteristics.
Podere
Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 2005 Langhe
Chardonnay L'Angelica $39.19
Brut Zero Riserva
While it would be difficult to state that
Valentino’s sparklers are more
important than his Barolos, it’s an
interesting argument for consideration….In
Emilia-Romagna, Valentino and his father
began crafting sparkling wines to
serve in Da Valentino,
Valentino’s renowned restaurant. In
Piemonte, Valentino continued the
tradition, and the consummate expression
he has realized by using Chardonnay as the
base of his Blanc de Blancs has
few rivals in the category. Derived from
old vines sourced from choice vineyard
plots in Monforte, this sparkler presents
an exceptional structure. Crafted
in a crisp, dry style via méthode
Champenoise, Brut Zero Riserva
is Valentino’s take on vintage
Champagne. This particular version was
aged over 36 months after bottling and then
refined in bottle for six months
prior to being released; it offers buttery
aromas and a generous perlage.
Podere
Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999 Brut
Zero Riserva $41.25
A Tribute to Valentino
A 12-year-old Barolo. The pioneering
Nebbiolo–Barbera blend. Two single-vineyard
Barolos. A complex Barbera from 70-year-old
vines. A structured
Barolo from the classic 1996 vintage. A
premier Italian interpretation of the
Champagne method. An iconoclastic Chardonnay
from
the land of reds.
These are the many wines of Piemonte,
captured in the work of a single
producer—the
late Valentino Migliorini of Rocche dei
Manzoni. And it is in this breadth
that the brilliance and rarity of the
legendary Migliorini lies: one of
Piemonte’s
finest producers, he is also one of the
very few to not only represent Piemonte’s
wine canon, but to do so at the highest
caliber, achieving excellence in all
categories.
Many of the wines here defy industry
expectations: that 12-year-old
Barolo—the ’95
Vigna Big ‘d Big—should be,
according to one authority—past
maturity. It is actually the assessment
itself, however, that is outdated,
losing all credibility in our current
tasting experience, which reveals a relative
youth requiring several hours of aeration
in order to be experienced optimally.
Also take that complex Barbera—a
virtual oxymoron. Yet, Valentino’s
2000 Barbera Sorito Mosconi is quite real,
a killer expression that goes far
beyond the grape’s inherent
potential.
The recent passing of Valentino Migliorini is
a tremendous loss not only to
the Italian wine community but to the wine
realm at large. His son, Rodolfo,
however, has worked by his side for several
years, and will continue to honor
his father in both practice and principle.
Moreover, there remain many wines
that have been crafted under his care, and
today, we’re offering a special
sampler of these wines—honoring
Valentino’s profound contributions
to Piemonte and the all-encompassing reach
of his talent.
A Tribute to Valentino (six
selections include):
• 1999 Brut Zero Riserva
• 1998 Langhe Bricco Manzoni
• 2000 Barbera Sorito Mosconi |
• 2001 Langhe Pinonero Damino
• 1995 Barolo Big 'd Big
• 1996 Barolo ‘Vigna d' la
Roul’ |
A Tribute to Valentino...$292.83*
*Free Delivery in Manhattan
Wine Experiences at IWM
IWM Featured Event: A Taste of Italy's Icons
January 5, 2008 1:00–3:00 pm,
$95.00
To kick off 2008, we are bringing back a
seminar from our collector series. You
are cordially invited to join us for a
special tasting dedicated to the wines
and producers that shaped, challenged, and
transformed the Italian wine scene.
This seminar provides a compelling and rare
introduction to some of Italy’s
most sought-after wines, including the
revolutionary Sassicaia; Conterno’s
benchmark Granbussia;
Sangiovese’s most illuminating singular
expression, Le
Pergole Torte; rare vintage Barolo from
Borgogno; and other labels that defined
a specific genre in Italian wine.
An IWM sommelier will lead the tasting,
setting each wine within its appropriate
regional and historical context and
illuminating its impact on both Italian
viticulture
and the world market’s perception of
Italian wine. Given their significance,
this presentation will be particularly
rewarding for aspiring wine enthusiasts
and collectors. Indeed, all participants will
receive a complimentary IWM Cellar
Account (for a duration of one
month)—an industry-defining tool that
enables
you to manage and analyze significant aspects
of your cellar in a virtual environment.
The tasting will assist you in identifying
labels that will either make a profound
contribution to your present cellar or start
a new collection with landmark style.
Tasting notes, maps, and additional materials
will complement the sommelier’s
presentation and provide further insight into
these iconic bottlings.
If you are in search of a gift for the
discriminating oenophile, there are few
that will rate as highly as IWM’s
A Tasting of Italy’s Icons.
For more information on this special Saturday
tasting event or to make a reservation,
please contact Michann Thompson at
212.473.2323, x106.
Participants Receive:
• Tasting Booklet that includes
IWM’s
proprietary notes
• Sampling of regional foods prepared
by IWM
chefs paired with each wine tasted
• Complimentary one-month online cellar
account
To learn more about IWM's Studio Regionale
Saturday
Tasting Series, or to
make a reservation over the phone, contact
Michann
Thompson at 212.473.2323, x106.
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