November
3, 2007
Twelve Wines of Longevity: Collectibles to Cellar
In This Issue
A
Note from Sergio
When you think of a
monument to
wine, what bottles come to mind? The 1937
Domaine
de la Romanée-Conti, 1945 Château
Mouton-Rothschild, 1947 Château Cheval
Blanc?
These are, more than likely, the usual
suspects. And
it’s just as likely
that you seek the annual new releases of these
wines for your cellar. Why?
Because these are names that have become
cellar
staples—blue-chip wines
of longevity that will appreciate in value
as they
mature. They are classic
expressions that integrate acidity,
tannins, and fruit,
intimating their future
brilliance upon release and showing their
full merit
only after several years—sometimes
decades—of cellaring. We wait for
them to
age because doing so lets us
experience them in their most perfect,
revealing, and
moving form.
Italy has its own share of monuments,
although only
a few decades ago, they
were unknown, as all eyes were steadfastly
focused
on France. It was only after
Tancredi Biondi Santi began marketing his
father’s Brunello that
Italy emerged upon the world stage. The
legendary
1888 Biondi Santi Brunello
Riserva was the spokesman—showing the
French and the wine world at large
that Italian wines were
ageworthy—eminently
capable of realizing that
exquisite symmetry of acidity, tannins, and
fruit that
defines a cellar staple.
As only three bottles of the 1888 remain
today under
the lock and key of Franco
Biondi Santi, they are contenders for the most
valuable
bottles on the planet. But
the efforts of the Biondi Santi family and
the majesty
of that 1888 not only
opened the cellars of wine connoisseurs and
collectors around the world to
Italian wine, but made recognition of the
brilliance of
the Biondi Santi 1955
Brunello Riserva and 1968 Sassicaia immediate.
Today, we regard the ’68
and ’85 Sassicaias as monuments and
eagerly cellar each vintage, knowing
that our expectations will be more than
gratified in the
years to come.
Certainly, however, there have been Italian
monuments that have gone unrecognized.
We hear about the legendary bottles of 1937
DRC
and 1945 Mouton-Rothschild
from the trade, but how many wine connoisseurs
have had Giacomo Conterno Monfortino
from the same vintages? There is, perhaps,
much to
be recovered and discovered
about Italy’s past—an effort
that will, no
doubt, take time.
For the moment, I’m offering 12
Italian wines
that are cellar staples.
These wines provide ideal translations of
their
respective terroirs, varietals,
and vintages—somehow reflecting the
essence of each with remarkable clarity
and detail. And, of course, they’ve
proven to
age brilliantly. I cannot
predict with any certainty whether these
wines will be
the next monuments—another ’85
Sassicaia or ’55 Biondi Santi. But I
can say
that they are wines that
possess all the earmarks of a monument. By
purchasing them now, you have a
chance at holding a blue-chip stock in your
cellar of
known provenance; what’s
more, you’ll receive them in pristine
condition.
These are wines for
serious connoisseurs and aspiring
enthusiasts—wines for special occasions
that are certain to pique the senses, elicit
conversation, and provoke thought.
And, given time, these staples may ascend the
ranks, reaching monumental stature.
My best,
Sergio Esposito
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Case Offering: Built to Last
Each wine in this case is a truly singular
production
possessing all the elements
of a great wine story—defining producer,
distinguished site, and stellar
vintage. Of greatest significance, of
course, is the
power play they enact—coalescing
in a manner that preserves their individual
dimension while effectuating
the preeminent virtue of longevity. It is
in their
prodigious evolution, in
fact, that the class and quality of the
producer, site,
and vintage will be
fully realized. Each will proceed through
several
phases, revealing the potential
that was there all along—quietly
signified
upon release to those aware
of such prescient depth.
There are several marquis Italian bottlings
that are not
included here—their
exclusion does not imply that they are lesser
creations. While several of these
will certainly age over a fairly long
period, they shine
most brilliantly in
other realms (indeed, certain vintages of
the wines
represented here would
not make this case)—projecting the
quality of
a certain vintage or the
prodigious revelation afforded by an
artisanal mind. A
view from the cellar
inspired this case—and it is our hope
that it
will be the source of profound
inspiration in your wine futures….
1.) Case Basse Soldera 2000 Brunello di
Montalcino
Riserva
2.) Quintarelli 1995 Amarone Riserva
3.) Giacomo Conterno 2000 Barolo Monfortino
4.) Tenuta San Guido 2004 Sassicaia
5.) Aldo Conterno 2000 Granbussia
6.) Guiseppe Mascarello 1996 Barolo
'Monprivato'
7.) Gaja 2001 Sorì Tildin
8.) Bruno Giacosa 2001 Barolo Falletto
9.) Pianpolvere 1999 Barolo Soprano Riserva
10.) Gravner 2001 Ribolla Anfora
11.) Bartolo Mascarello 2001 Barolo
12.) Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2004
Ornellaia
Collectors's
Case: Wines Built to Last...$2,665.84*
*Free Delivery in Manhattan
Read on below to buy these wines
individually and
learn the importance each plays in this
monumental
case offering.
Case Basse di Soldera
Given how this conversation has started,
you’d
think that we’d
be offering either the ’99 or the
’01—and your expectations
would be justified, given the anticipation
surrounding
the ’01. The
reality is, however, that this wine is
simply not
available yet. But that’s
really neither here nor there—not when
there’s a wine like Soldera’s 2000,
which is
arguably—no, we take that back—which
is the
wine of the vintage.
We’re not denying or overlooking the
facts of
the vintage here—2000
was a ripe one. However, in the realm of a
master
like Soldera, that character
was finessed in such a way that the wine
almost
seems to derive from another
year. This is not an unprecedented phenomenon:
Ironically, some of the most
legendary wines—including that ’45
Mouton and ’47 Cheval
Blanc—are also the products of a ripe
year.
If anyone could make a 2000 that exemplifies
the ideal
balance between power
and structure, it is Soldera. A traditionalist
that has safeguarded
the concept of classic Brunello with the
heralded
Biondi Santi, Soldera
engages in an intense artisanal, organic
approach
that is rooted in meticulous
quality control, with exceedingly low
yields being the
hallmark of his efforts.
The 2000 displays the brilliant
translucency captured
by Biondi Santi, a quality
that belies the significant concentration
of the wine,
which is acknowledged
in the punch and weight delivered on the
palate.
Case
Basse Soldera 2000 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $247.50*
*Indicates Prearrival
Quintarelli Amarone Ris.
The label says it all here: Riserva.
In Giuseppe
Quintarelli’s
exacting realm, what others deem a good
year is an
off one for him, meaning
no Amarone—the product of exceptional
vintages. So where does that leave
the Riserva? In a pretty exclusive place,
as Quintarelli
rarely considers a
vintage to be Riserva-worthy. This pedigree
renders it
the most significant
Amarone produced. In the case of the
’95, this
stature is only heightened,
as it may very well constitute the final
prodigious
vintage of the legendary
Quintarelli.
Moreover, the ’95 vintage, as with the
’90 and ’97 vintages,
represents a historic one for the region.
Given the
impeccable nature of the ’95
vintage, this bottling is virtually
unrivaled in the genre
of collector wines.
The price will continue to appreciate
substantively
over the wine’s market
tenure.
Quintarelli 1995 Amarone Riserva $565.00
G. Conterno Monfortino
Monfortino: It introduced the world to
traditional Barolo and has gone
on to become what is arguably the consummate
expression of the Nebbiolo grape— irrespective
of stylistic orientation (i.e., traditional or modern).
Giacomo Conterno revolutionized
the very concept of Barolo with the 1920 debut of his
Barolo Riserva—which
he subsequently christened Monfortino, in
homage to Monforte d’Alba,
his home commune—rejecting its common
expression as an early drinking
wine and crafting a rendition that possessed
substantive aging potential.
Wine experts have, as a matter of course, established
the majesty of vintages
such as 1937 and 1945 by revisiting the established
wine legends of these years.
But have these return engagements included the
’37 and ’45 Monfortinos, which we have
tasted here at IWM?
If they had a place in these sacred events, the
profundity of these years would
merit only greater validation, as these expressions of
Monfortino are magical,
delivering a level of fruit that is inexplicably generous
for the age of the
wines.
As with Soldera’s 2000, Conterno’s
Monfortino works the vintage
to its benefit, proffering a formidable structure
through a vinification protocol that goes to extremes,
with no provision for temperature control, a
maceration period that often exceeds a month, and a
minimum maturation of seven years in cask.
Giacomo
Conterno 2000 Barolo Monfortino $371.25
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia
The 1968 Sassicaia—the wine that launched a
thousand Super-Tuscans—is
a masterful cuvée of the best Cabernet
Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc
grapes from the vineyards of Castiglioncello,
Doccino, Quercione, San Martino,
Mandrioli, Sassicaia, and Aianova. It rocked the wine
world when it challenged the First Growths in the
1985 vintage, surpassing its riveting
premiere by attaining the
pinnacle of its expression.
It doesn’t want for attention, no matter the
vintage concerned. But
as exceptional as each performance is, few are as
deserving of that attention
as the ’04. This vintage truly distinguishes
itself in Sassicaia’s
storied career, told through an unbroken
performance streak that delivers amazing
stylistic breadth while retaining both the
wine’s individual character
(the “signature smell of Sassicaia”)
and Italian heritage. Moreover,
it maintains integrity, exercising a restrained use of
modern technology and
never coming across as over-extracted.
Is it another ’85? While not quite on par with
that monumental homage
to Super-Tuscans, it is the most structured Sassicaia
to be released in decades,
surpassing the highly lauded 2001. As it matures
over the next two decades,
it will steadily be erecting its own monument to this
genre of wine, with critics
asking the question Is it another ’04?
with the release of Sassicaias
to come.
Tenuta San Guido 2004 Sassicaia $159.97
A. Conterno Granbussia
Granbussia, along with the featured Quintarelli
Amarone,
offers the greatest accessibility
of the wines presented herein.
The balance between fruit and structure endows
these wines with an almost irresistible
allure. You shouldn’t give in, though.
We’ll satisfy your urge
to experience the ’00 Granbussia at our
special collector tastings held once a month and
explain why greater pleasures are in store if such a
wine receives proper cellaring.
Granbussia is one of Italy’s most esteemed
Barolos. While decidedly
not the work of a modernist, Aldo Conterno is
frequently misconstrued as such.
In fact, as a cuvée comprising the three
Bussia crus—Romirasco
(70%), Colonnello (15%), and Cicala (15%)
—it honors the traditional practice
of blending across sites. Its aging regimen is also
rooted in tradition, as
maturation extends over six years, three of which are
conducted in Slavonian
oak casks.
Granbussia is, therefore, crafted with a view to
extensive aging, a design
that is not compromised by the ripeness of 2000. In
fact, it is in its deceptive
approachability that the future rewards of this effort
are most palpable. The
sweet, concentrated fruit—balanced by an
impressive structure for the
vintage—will allow this wine a substantive
evolution.
Aldo Conterno 2000 Granbussia $279.00
G. Mascarello Monprivato
This is the right-wing extreme of Barolo— if
you will—a fundamentalist that defies the
moderns vintage after vintage
in its obstinate and forbidding austerity. Thus, when
given a platform like
the structured 1996 vintage, Monprivato becomes the
year’s prototype—the
guardian of traditional ideology, rooted in an
extended maceration period of
20 to 25 days and a three-month aging period in
Slavonian casks.
The formidable structure of this wine continues its
tight rein, allowing only
nascent development at this stage. It will relent over
the years slowly and
with impeccable grace and stature, easily realizing a
thirty-year evolution that will result in an expansive list
of tertiary flavors.
Guiseppe Mascarello 1996 Barolo 'Monprivato' $139.60
Gaja Sorì Tildin
A Barbaresco by any other name….It’s a
fact: This wine cannot
take the name of Barbaresco given the involvement
of a little grape called Barbera. It’s also true
that Gaja is
credited with introducing
several modern practices, including the use of
barrique, reduced fermentation
periods, and the planting of
“forbidden” international varieties.
But can we simply say that Gaja’s single-
vineyard Nebbiolo Langhe bottlings
operate exclusively within a modernist agenda? On
paper, it just doesn’t
read that way. For starters, consider the maceration
period, which extends
over three weeks—regarded as a lengthy
period irrespective of viticultural
philosophy. Furthermore, while the wine does age for
12 months in barrique,
this is succeeded by an equal term in large oak
casks.
Of particular significance herein is the fact that
Sorì Tildin is regarded
as the most classic of Gaja’s crus,
possessing the ability to age for
more than 30 years when representing a particularly
strong vintage. Enter 2001—the
superb finale in the Barolo Vintage
Streak—offering an
impeccable balance
between fruit and aging.
Gaja 2001 Sorì Tildin $279.95
Giacosa Barolo Falletto
For those new to Barolo, this constitutes a premier
cru. In the manner of
Soldera’s magical Brunello, it ostensibly
appears like a very light, thin
wine. In actuality, it is a mammoth production that will
show its incipient
depth in the tight, muscular character of its early
wonder years.
Like Gaja, Giacosa is often typecast, regarded as a
pure, unwavering traditionalist.
While his wines certainly exemplify the classic style
of Barolo in their leanness
and restraint, he is not absolute in his approach, as
he operates in a state-of-the-art
winery and utilizes stainless steel. Nevertheless, the
structured vintage of 2001 is one
that complements his primary
stylistic orientation—and, more importantly,
wholly satisfies his stringent
requirements concerning the bottling of cru wines,
which he declines to vinify
in years that do not meet his particular specifications.
The 2001 Falletto—one of Giacosa’s
estate bottlings (he also bottles
wines sourced from independent growers, which he
did exclusively prior to purchasing
the Falletto Vineyard in the early ’90s)
—possesses an impressive
formidable structure. The fruit is, therefore, of
secondary import now and
for years to come, but over the course of the
wine’s maturation, this
dimension will flesh out, revealing a remarkably
layered composition against
a prescient framework.
Bruno Giacosa 2001 Barolo Falletto $119.99
Pianpolvere Barolo Soprano Riserva
This wine marks the debut of Rocche dei Manzoni
proprietor Valentino Migliorini’s
Barolo Riserva from Pianpolvere. Valentino
purchased the historic estate in
1999, with a view to crafting wines of
longevity.
Resting at an average elevation
of 350 meters, the Pianpolvere site is an
exceptional
one for Nebbiolo, given
both the microclimate concerned and the
soil’s capacity for water retention.
The ’99 Pianpolvere
Soprano—released only last year—
represents
a joint effort between the Fenocchio and
Migliorini
families (only the aging
was conducted exclusively under
Migliorini’s
supervision).
The grapes were cultivated within the
context of a
biodynamic farming regimen
and stored in small baskets in order to
facilitate ideal
aeration. The aging
regimen entailed three years in French
barrique
(specifically new Taransaud),
followed by one year in oak cask and three
years of
bottle maturation. Remarkably,
the barrique influence is extremely subtle
in this
massive Barolo from the structured 1999
vintage—this is one to watch.
Pianpolvere
1999 Barolo Soprano Riserva $170.50
Gravner Ribolla Anfora
How can it be that a list of eminent reds representing
Italy’s exemplars
of longevity and tradition includes a white? This wine
will challenge your
conception of what a white wine can be.
Gravner’s Ribolla—a grape
that Gravner has studied intensively and resurrected,
making it the white of
choice among Friuli’s foremost
artisans—is a white unto itself,
decanting like a red, drinking like a red, and above
all, aging like one.
The career of the eminent and iconoclastic Gravner
has been a dynamic one,
an ongoing evolution that has produced some of
Italy’s most compelling
white wines and, at a certain stage of his career, a
few reds as well. His
work with amphorae—clay vessels that many
believe were the first mediums
utilized to hold wine—are the most radical of
his efforts. Gravner’s
use of this ancient form, however, is filtered through
modern biodynamic winemaking
principles, fashioning a unique hybrid between
traditional practice and contemporary
methodology.
This debut release was sourced from vines dating
back to 1915, with the maceration
period extending over a seven-month period. When
the alignment of the planets
and moon produces atmospheric pressure that forces
the grape pomace to the bottom
of the amphorae, the must is removed by bucket and
transferred to large botti.
It rests here for three additional years before being
transferred to bottle for
further aging without filtration.
Gravner 2001 Ribolla Anfora $89.87
B. Mascarello Barolo
When is 84 points better than 100? When the wine is
Mascarello’s Barolo.
The ’01 did indeed receive 84 points, a score
that reflects a lack of
understanding about the nature of this estate (while
implicitly impugning the
wine industry’s 100-point system) and
Mascarello’s staunch traditionalist
protocol and rigorous, unrelenting opposition to all
modern approaches.
Mascarello Barolos are not intended to be drunk
upon release or a few years
thereafter, as our experience with the ’96
establishes. While criticized
by many reviewers upon its release, the
’96—after the passage of
several years—emerged to be widely
recognized as a superb bottling. The
product of extended maceration and aging in large
botti, a Mascarello Barolo—an
archetype of traditional Barolo—is all
imminent potential in its youth.
Sourced from the best fruit in the historic and
prestigious vineyards of Cannubi,
Rue, San Lorenzo, and Rocche, this Barolo is
produced in an
exceedingly limited quantity. Of the 1,200 cases that
are produced, only a
mere handful make it to the States.
Bartolo Mascarello 2001 Barolo $90.06
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia
In the context of the classic, impeccably balanced
vintage of ’04, Ornellaia
is realizing one of its defining
performances—an expression that will
require several years of cellaring in order to elicit the
full breadth of its
potential.
The 2004 bottling comprises 60% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 12% Cabernet
Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot, with the latter having
been introduced in the 2003
vintage. Varietal contributions are routinely adjusted
in order to accommodate
the nature of the vintage, one of the elements that
has enabled the estate
to achieve an impeccable record of excellence. Also
integral is the estate’s
vinification regimen, which entails the individual
vinification of each grape
and vineyard block. In 2004, these individual
contributions totaled 51, providing
a comprehensive representation of
Ornellaia’s micro-terroirs. Each was
matured in barrique for 18 months; following
blending, the finished wine was
aged for an additional six months.
This may be Bolgheri's finest year, with Ornellaia
delivering one of the vintage's most compelling
performances.
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2004 Ornellaia $169.95*
*Indicates Prearrival
Corporate Gift Center
Corporate gift-giving is a category unto itself in the
holiday shopping realm
and demands a unique set of strategies. IWM's 2007
Corporate Gift Center features
a collection of tasting cases, six-bottle samplers, and
gift baskets highlighting
wines that have been particularly well-received
throughout the past year, getting
you straight to the best without adieu.
Moreover, IWM has established a dedicated suite of
services to assist you
in maximizing the efficiency of your efforts. Notable
among these is a multiple-gift
order form that enables you to handle more than one
gift at a time. We recommend
utilizing the benefits of this form for large orders, or
contacting a Portfolio
Manager at 212.473.2323.
Services Include:
Portfolio Manager
Up-to-date account tracking
Accommodation for accounts of various sizes
Nationwide delivery
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