October 19, 2007
Biodynamic Bravura & Indigenous Wonder
In This Issue
A Note
from Sergio
Italy's white wines have often gotten a bad rap, stereotyped
as either irrelevant, tasteless liquids, or passed over on
the hunt for Barolo or Brunello. But the idea that Italy has
no worthwhile whites is outdated. The beautiful, pale golden
wines of Italy can be found from coast to coast—fresh,
interesting, and replete with terroir. Today's offering includes
three producers that should prove any skeptic wrong: They
each make sophisticated, deeply flavored wines that accurately
express the true characteristics of their respective regional
grapes.
Sartarelli is the king of Verdicchio—or, perhaps more
accurately, its defining creator. The white varietal existed
before, but nobody outside of Italy knew much about it. Ignorance
may actually have been preferable, as Verdicchio was considered
pretty tacky—a mediocre, sloppily crafted juice in a
kitschy fish-shaped glass bottle. But then came the Sartarelli
family. They went from owning a communal cantina—in
which all the farmers would press their grapes together—to
building an empire that singlehandedly reinvented Verdicchio
with three unique interpretations. In so doing, they raised
the bar and created a market. What was once a watery, acidic
drink is now a crisp, herbal wine. The straightforward Classico
is simple, clear, and perfect with fresh seafood. When I'm
in the area, I refuse to drink anything else.
For Gavi di Gavi, the native white Cortese of the Monferrato
Hills, there's Villa Sparina. It's a place run by Stefano
Moccagatta, a human being who is quite literally larger-than-life.
Stefano is Pavarotti's doppelganger—merely one of his
many feats. He's also a brilliant winemaker who has, with
passion and diligence, brought his indigenous varietal into
the public eye. He's taken a fruit once considered bland and
made a rich, intensely extracted wine, beautiful with regional
dishes—soft cheeses, homemade pasta, roasted vegetables,and
white fish.
And then there is Movia, an estate that has changed winemaking
as a whole. Its owner, Ales Kristancic, is a wild genius—and
I'm not exaggerating. He takes biodynamic production to a
new level, incorporating philosophy and ancient science into
his farming; bottling by the lunar cycle; and treating fermentation
with yeast on an advanced level. He was born to make wine,
born with an innate understanding of the medium's mysteries.
The clarity he brings to his craft can be perceived on a sensory
level in his work. When I hear the word biodynamic,
I see Ales in his cellar, working like a wizard to make the
world's freshest, most thrilling white wines.
So when someone says Italy's whites are "water with lemon,"
I don't get mad. I invite them over and pour them glasses
of Sartarelli, Villa Sparina, and Movia. From the very first
sip, I can see their minds changing. Because when done right,
Italy's whites are wines of wonder.
My Best,
Sergio
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Verdicchio
at its Best
Le Marche is now renowned for its Verdicchio, a native varietal
whose cultivation in this region has been traced back to the
14th century. Its name derives from the word verde,
a reference to its slight green hue, and it is often classified
as the ultimate wine for fish, due to its crisp, delicate
nature. Modern versions both attest to and enhance the grape’s
innate identity, realizing a significant stylistic breadth.
Verdicchio is a late-ripening, productive grape, and shows
best when yields are controlled and it is allowed to experience
a long-ripening season. Cru bottlings and selected cuvées
display its virtues to particular effect.
Sartarelli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Balciana
You could say that Sartarelli had a varietal calling. This
estate is quite rare among producers, as it is dedicated exclusively
to one grape and one grape alone—Verdicchio. Sartarelli
brings Verdicchio to new heights with three bottlings from
Castelli di Jesi, and its devotion has translated into Le
Marche’s premier version of Verdicchio—Balciana,
the portfolio's flagship. Sourced from low-yielding, late-harvest
grapes, the Balciana receives an extended period of aging
prior to release. Having well established itself as the most
opulent and concentrated expression of Verdicchio in all of
Italy, Balciana is a sheer exhibitionist in the heat of the
'03 vintage, delivering a weighty and intense expression that
surpasses its normale state. This concentration receives
an added flourish in the subtle, yet distinctive revelation
of the wine's oak influences.
Sartarelli
2003 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Balciana $44.50
Sartarelli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Tralivio
Sartarelli's Tralivio is selectively sourced from some of
the estate’s oldest vines, which are aggressively pruned
in order to obtain low yields. Vinification entails gentle
pressing and temperature- controlled fermentation, producing
an utterly persuasive wine in its distinctive aromatics, which
are particularly demonstrative in the '03 vintage, a year
that also makes itself apparent in the Tralivio's full body.
Sartarelli
2003 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Tralivio $18.56
Sartarelli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
The Classico is Sartarelli’s lightest rendition of Verdicchio,
delivering a pure, fresh expression of varietal character.
Dry, crisp, and tart on the palate, with ripe fruit flavors
of melon and citrus, the wine ends cleanly, with a distinctive
touch of bitter almond. While the simplest in the portfolio,
this expression is quintessentially Verdicchio—a wine
that was made to be with seafood.
Sartarelli
2004 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico $12.63
Gavi
that Takes it Higher
Gavi is made from the indigenous white Cortese, a vigorous
vine that thrives in southeastern Piemonte’s Monferrato
Hills, producing fresh wines with a whisk of acidity and subtle
flavors of minerality, apple, citrus, and honeysuckle. Gavi
earned DOC status in 1974, and in 1998 became Italy’s
second DOCG white wine. While it is among the region’s
most celebrated wines, it has realized its full potential
through the bottlings of Villa Sparina—the antitheses
of the bland expressions that have tended to obscure the wine's
higher potential.
Villa Sparina Gavi di Gavi
IWM is rather passionate where Gavi is concerned, nurturing
a palate for one Gavi and one Gavi alone—the production
of Villa Sparina, an estate that satisfies our singular devotion—at
this particular time—through three expressions. While
Cortese is inherently rather reserved, Villa Sparina is noted
for its ability to bring out another side of this modest figure,
crafting atypical versions that deliver a tropical quality
and full-bodied character. In order to realize this interpretation,
Villa Sparina delays harvest as long as possible, enabling
the grapes to develop significant concentration. This strategy,
however, does not compromise Cortese’s hallmark acidity,
thereby enabling an expression of great complexity. This wine
exhibits atypical density in concentrated pear and citrus
flavors. Nevertheless, it expresses distinguished composure,
closing with a signature almond finish.
Villa
Sparina 2005 Gavi di Gavi $22.47
Villa Sparina Gavi di Gavi ‘Monterotondo’
The Monterotondo delivers a different kind of Gavi—illustrating
the wine's response to oak aging. Filigreed golden flecks
glitter throughout the wine, visually projecting Monterotondo’s
richness. Aromas of pear, spice, and citrus entice the nose,
and the palate satisfies with flavors of cream, honey, and
oak. While full-bodied, the acidity royally supports this
weighty gem through an extended finish.
Villa
Sparina 2001 Gavi di Gavi ‘Monterotondo’ $34.99
Villa Sparina Montej Bianco
Distinguishing itself from all others on the shelf in its
uniquely shaped frosted bottle, the Montej also delivers quite
an intriguing blend, both in general and certainly with respect
to the region in question. Comprised of Chardonnay, Sauvignon
Blanc, and Müller- Thurgau (a cross of the Riesling and
Sylvaner grapes), the profile offers a spectrum of flavors.
While opening with many of the acidic and green qualities
of Sauvignon Blanc, it loses all inhibitions from the midpalate
on, delivering lush flavors of pineapple to sweet almond.
Villa
Sparina 2004 Montej Bianco $11.22
A True
Biodynamic Producer
Movia is the leading producer of Slovenia, yet holds a special
and deserved place in IWM’s portfolio, as it cultivates
vines that cross the border, extending into the Collio region
of Fruili. Movia is also recognized as the leading biodynamic
producer. The influence of this estate is such that students
and winemakers around the globe study Movia winemaker Ales
Kristancic’s techniques, and many visit him to observe
and learn firsthand. His vinification and viticultural philosophy
cannot be construed as either traditional or even purely natural:
Rather, it is a reflection of a collective wisdom acquired
and refined over two centuries of winemaking at the Movia
estate. Terms that have been rendered virtually meaningless
in the wine world due to gratuitous usage—green harvest,
100 percent new French barrique, and low yields—are
not part of Movia’s viticultural frame of reference.
Production is informed by fine-tuned biodynamic principles
that reflect a thorough understanding of vines, root management,
and lunar cycles.
Movia Pinot Grigio
While many oenophiles may feel it obligatory to dismiss all
Italian Pinot Grigio, Friuli’s top producers consistently
demonstrate this varietal’s eminent worth and range.
Most regard it as a fairly light, quaffable wine, but Movia’s
version expresses the wine’s broader dimensions in a
full-bodied version that delivers generous tropical fruits,
acacia honey, underlying minerality, and a creaminess reminiscent
of crème brûlée. While Movia’s Pinot
Grigio is grown exclusively in Friuli, the vinification facilities
are situated across the border in Slovenia.
Movia
2004 Pinot Grigio $25.25
Movia 2003 Sauvignon
Sauvignon Blanc is reinvented at Movia. Grassy gooseberry
aromas are the trademark of New Zealand’s take on this
international varietal. It exhibits a softer, more subtle
dimension in the wines of Bordeaux, where it figures in blends
with Sémillon. Movia, however, does not reference either
of these popular expressions in its interpretation. This unique
Sauvignon is derived from a clone of the grape found exclusively
in one plot of the Movia estate. A subtle version—i.e.,
less “green” than typical Sauvignon—this
wine is laden with floral and tangerine notes.
While possessing a high level of acidity, this element is
integrated into the wine through aging in new oak on its lees
for 20 months, which fashions a voluptuous character and supple
finish.
Movia
2003 Sauvignon $26.40
Movia Ribolla
Although this aromatic, robust, and late-ripening varietal
is obscured by both Pinot Grigio and Tocai, the preferred
grapes of the international and local scenes, respectively,
it enjoys flattering representation in the work of Friuli’s
iconoclastic producers. Known as Rebula in Slovenia
and Robola in Greece, Ribolla wines are generally dry
and buttery, possessing good acidity in their youth. However,
age moderates this grape’s juvenile vivacity and many
age well, developing a mature richness.
Movia
2003 Ribolla $25.24
Note: During visits to the Movia estate, Sergio has
tasted Ribollas with Ales that date back to the fifties and
sixties. Sergio has found them to be miracles of viticultural
science—providing firsthand evidence that the whites
of the Collio have the ability to age gracefully. This wine
delivers rich flavors of fresh apples and damson, with a chalky
streak right down the middle. It offers vibrant acidity backed
by buttery oak and spicy fruit.
Movia 2003 Veliko Bianco
In addition to the monovarietal bottlings featured above,
Movia also crafts standout cuvées that reflect the rich style
captured by their solo-varietal relations. Each vintage of
Movia's "Great White"—Veliko Belo in Slovenian—constitutes
a blend of varying proportions of Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon,
and Pinot Grigio that is aged for a three-year period in oak.
Floral suggestions on the nose are succeeded by a full palate
featuring persimmon, apricot, baked apple, and white flowers.
This elegant and age-worthy offering represents a superb value.
Movia
2003 Veliko Bianco $41.25
Assorted
White Wonders
All of the featured producers craft very distinctive whites,
many of which redefine their respective grapes. Their interpretations
maximize the inherent quality of the grapes concerned through
restricted yields, rigorous processes of selection, late harvesting,
and extended periods of aging, establishing the level of quality
that uncompromising viticultural techniques may realize.
In Sartarelli’s one-varietal vocation, Verdicchio acquires
intensity, delivering an intense rendition that shows quite
a different side of this quintessential seafood wine. Villa
Sparina brings an ancient grape—Cortese—into a
new era, preserving its trademark acidity while eliciting
a rich character. Movia operates in its own realm, pursuing
a unique biodynamic regimen that reinterprets the familiar
and captures the essence of the esoteric, yet disarmingly
familiar.
This 10-bottle collection delivers a focused immersion study
in some of the foremost grapes and producers of Italy’s
indigenous white scene, set against the backdrop of three
distinct regions. Terroir, philosophy, technique….these
are whites to wonder upon….
White Wonders Assorted 10-Pack Includes:
Sartarelli 2003 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Balciana
Sartarelli 2003 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Tralivio
Sartarelli 2004 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
Villa Sparina 2005 Gavi di Gavi
Villa Sparina 2001 Gavi di Gavi ‘Monterotondo’
Villa Sparina 2004 Montej Bianco
Movia 2004 Pinot Grigio
Movia 2003 Sauvignon
Movia 2003 Ribolla
Movia 2003 Veliko Bianco
White Wonders Assorted Ten-Pack...$262.51*
*Free Delivery in Manhattan
Saturday
Tasting Events
A
Taste of Brunello di Montalcino
October 27, 1:00–3:00 pm, $50.00
Though Montalcino's winemaking origins date back to the 10th
century, the greatness of the region was secured in 1865,
when Clemente Biondi Santi bottled a red wine labeled Brunello.
Despite its relatively short history, Brunello di Montalcino
has quickly become the most collected of Italy’s wines.
The beauty of Brunello lies in its astounding diversity: Montalcino
has 24 distinct subzones and an array of producer styles that
are best understood when tasting through a selection of the
wines. Provide your palate with a consummate education in
Brunello, as you experience both classic and contemporary
interpretations, and refine your ability to identify the signatures
of individual zones in the region.
Participants Receive:
Tasting Booklet that includes IWM’s proprietary
notes
Sampling of regional foods prepared by IWM chefs paired
with each wine tasted
***********************************************************
IWM
Featured Event: Tasting Wine for the Cellar
Saturday, November 3, 1:00–3:00 pm, $125.00
You are cordially invited to join us for a special tasting
dedicated to the fine art of creating and maintaining a balanced
wine collection. Whether you are an experienced collector
or an aspiring enthusiast, this seminar will introduce you
to Wine Collecting Solutions. While you taste Italy's legendary
wines— such as Sassicaia and Granbussia—learn
how an IWM Portfolio Manager can help you establish short-
and long-term goals for collecting and cellaring based on
your palate and budget; how to track, research, and chart
your purchases and consumption through our proprietary online
wine tracking tool; and how a dedicated Cellar Master will
help supervise and maintain your online Cellar Account. Attendees
will also receive a complimentary one-month Online Cellar
Account.
This tasting will showcase a selection of collectible wines
intended for aging, labels suited to entertaining, and bottlings
that are ideal for everyday consumption.
Cellar Wines (wines that need to age):
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia
Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia
Tenuta La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Le Due Sorrelle
Il Macchione Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Entertainment Wines (wines that impress):
Aldo Conterno Il Favot
Quintarelli Valpolicella Superiore
Castello di Monsanto Il Nemo
Everyday Wines (wine for food and home):
Featured Spumante
Bruno Giacosa Barbera d'Alba Superiore
*Attendees will receive a complimentary Cellar Account (your
own virtual cellar) for one month, along with tasting notes,
maps, and more.
For more information on our Saturday tasting event or to make
a reservation, please contact Michann Thompson at 212-473-2323,
x106.
Two Special Events
Autism Speaks to Wall Street: A Celebrity Chef Gala
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
This inaugural event pairs Wall Street's
investment
community with world-renowned
chefs for a magical evening of fine food,
wine and
goodwill at the Capitale Ballroom
in New York's Chinatown. Guests will enjoy the
comedic talents of host Darrell
Hammond and the music of singer/songwriter Lisa
Loeb. The evening begins with
a cocktail reception followed by a sit-down
four-course
dinner, which will be prepared
by celebrity chefs tableside. The
gala includes such culinary
luminaries as Franklin Becker, Andrew
Carmellini,
Wylie Dufresne, Eric Ripert,
David Waltuck, Geoffrey Zakarian, and more.
The event concludes with an auction featuring
unique
wine packages,
offerings which IWM is proud to be a part of.
While this event is sold out, you can still be
involved or contribute to
this tremendous cause. Email Cindy Brown to
learn more about this event and the cause.
Le Città del Tartufo-The Truffle Towns of
Italy
Thursday, November 8, 2007, 5:30 to 11:00
pm
This rare truffle event for the James Beard
Foundation
is another occasion IWM is proud to be
involved in.
Just in time to mark the start of white
truffle season,
the
Foundation is importing over 25 pounds of
truffles and welcoming three great truffle
chefs from
Italy's principal truffle towns for the
annual holiday
auction. A
spectacular live auction will feature
one-of-a-kind
culinary and gourmet travel packages,
including private dinners prepared by the
world's
greatest chefs, the Italian truffle trip of a
lifetime,
and a truffle hunt. Other
unique and rare gourmet gifts will be
available in
a large silent auction. Proceeds from the
dinner and
auctions will support the mission and
programs of the
James Beard Foundation. Look for IWM at the
event.
Reservations:
IWM Clients $1,000*
General Public $1,250
*Note: IWM clients can receive this special
rate by
mentioning the code IWM when they call to
RSVP by
phone at 212-627-2308 or (800) 36-BEARD. For
more
information on the event, please click here.
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