October 5, 2007
A Flight To Montalcino
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
About this time last year I was sitting in a little
osteria in the
heart of Montalcino, having finished a classic
regional meal: Lardo (cured
meat from just under the pig's skin), ribollita
(bread soup), pici
alla lepre (thick pasta with wild hare), and
rosticciana di maiale alla griglia (a
flawlessly-grilled pork chop). Four courses, all of
them served on white porcelain
plates without much fanfare. Along with them, I drank
a 2003 Rosso di
Montalcino, a 2000 Brunello Annata, a 2001 Brunello
Riserva, and a 1999 blend.
It was a perfect meal: The food was plain and
honest, and the wine noble and
graceful.
Montalcino, a zone that has been challenged in many
ways by Barolo’s
recent vintage streak, exemplifies an aspect of the
Italian way. The ancient
village and its surroundings have been exploited by
those seeking to cash in
on Brunello, but it's still a place in which effort is
concentrated on maintaining
both humility and excellence. And at its best, it has
managed to touch on a
balance of simplicity and elegance—its old
barns and dusty roads sit
in harmony along the Sienese hills with its
manicured rose gardens and cypress
tree-lined lanes. Some of the most brilliant
philosophers I know live in Montalcino,
and they all make a living farming or winemaking.
The best wines from Montalcino
express this equilibrium beautifully: They're subtle
but explosive—moreover,
they're top-notch expressions of the delicate
Sangiovese, which thrives in
the soil.
A few weeks ago, I mentioned that it would behoove
enthusiasts and collectors
to now purchase Barolos. The same holds true for
the wines of Montalcino in many ways and this is a
time to stock up. Today I'm
offering a vintage
flight that allows you to experience Montalcino
through its primary wines:
a Rosso di Montalcino, two Brunello Annata, a
Brunello Riserva, and a standout
blend. Enjoy.
My best,
Sergio
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Montalcino Vintage Flight
This is the ideal sampler for the enthusiast
who is
seeking to understand Montalcino through various
vintages, producer styles, aging
requirements, and
nuanced terroirs. This sampler comprises
six years,
allowing you to explore the distinctive
merits of each
through the craft of an individual producer,
as all earn a place in your collection. Our
chosen
course for Montalcino sets us on a journey
through the
south of the zone, as we move from west to east
in search of wines that express the remarkable
diversity of this seemingly enchanted wine zone.
Here are six selections, each labeled on the
map of
Montalcino linked below, that will
provide a trip through the region and an
adventure for
the palate. Read on below to learn about each
wine
and what it represents.
Montalcino Vintage Flight Includes:
Poggio di Sotto 2003 Rosso di Montalcino $43.32
Tenuta La Fuga 2001 Brunello Riserva 'Le Due Sorelle' $79.95
Poggio di Sotto 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $87.50
Argiano 1999 Solengo $89.95
Talenti 1998 Brunello di Montalcino $62.57
Casisano-Colombaio 1997 Brunello di Montalcino $89.95
Detailed Map of Montalcino (click to view)
Montalcino Vintage Exploration Flight...$453.24*
*Free Delivery in Manhattan
We begin at Tenuta La Fuga, where we enjoy the
estate's Riserva 'Le Due Sorelle'—a
profound
expression of a vintage that is recognized as a
modern classic. The 2001 vintage offers the
virtues of
longevity and structure, which are afforded a
particularly powerful delineation with the
additional
aging in wood required for the Riserva, as
well as the
traditional orientation of La Fuga.
In moving
on to Argiano, we encounter a particularly
unique
vintage among those concerned: While 1999 may be
characterized as concentrated, its wines
generally
exhibit a more balanced character than those
of either
2000 or 2003, while not delivering the
abundance of
fruit of the '97s nor the restraint of the
'01s. It is of
significant note that the '99 vintage of
"Montalcino's
Super-Tuscan"—Solengo—was the last
to include Sangiovese and receive partial
aging in first-passage barrique (20%) as opposed
to wholly new. The '99 is an exceptional
rendition of
this celebrated cuvée,
delivering a
consummate translation of this vintage in its
bravura
flavor profile and eminent structure.
We find ourselves next in the zone of
Sant'Angelo,
where you may feel free
to pop the cork on Talenti's ready-to-drink
'98
Brunello. The late Pierluigi
Talenti literally defined a category of
Brunello—one
marked by wines that are
eminently approachable upon release yet
demonstrate an amazing equanimity between
fruit and approachability, and acidity and
longevity. It
is of significance
to note that the Talenti estate is situated
in the same
region of Montalcino
as Il Poggione, where this pioneering
producer of
Brunello initially won acclaim
for breaking the parameters of Brunello's
original
character. The '98 establishes
Talenti's mastery of a balance between
fruit and
acidity, as both elements
still project vibrancy.
Casisano-Colombaio's more traditional approach
made for a remarkable engagement
with the '97 vintage, which is noted for
producing
voluptuous wines. This Brunello
avoids the excesses of an overly ripe nature,
capturing all of Brunello's defining
characteristics. To find wines of such
caliber from
this highlysought vintage is a difficult
task, and we are
pleased to offer this wine with
some age on it.
Our final stop
positions us
in Castelnuovo dell'Abate with one of
Montalcino's
rising stars. Poggio di Sotto's Rosso is,
simply put, an
awesome crowd-pleaser—a wine with a
muscle that is all molto Montalcino.
What's
more, it gives us the most edifying
of glimpses into the '03 vintage, while
rivaling its
older sibling Brunellos.
All that said, though, we're here for the
Brunello,
which, like that of Talenti,
achieves the classic balance between
approachability and longevity. The 2000
vintage was a deeply concentrated one, yet
Piero
Palumucci impressively maintained
the integrity of Sangiovese. Drink this
Brunello today
while you age the 2001.
Historic 1990 Vintage
Today, we are fortunate to have experienced the
quality-driven string
of vintages that Mother
Nature has provided over the Montalcino
region, as is
illustrated above. More
importantly, we have producers doing great
things in
challenging vintages
like 2002. At the Newport Wine and Food
Festival this
past weekend, we poured
the Il Palazzone 2002 Brunello to an
overwhelmingly
positive response. However,
if we look back at the historic vintages in
Montalcino,
1955 would certainly
come to mind due to Biondi-Santi's solo
effort, as
would 1982, 1985, 1988,
and the defining 1990.
Each represents a different time in
Montalcino's
development, with 1990 delivering a historically
poignant expression—the ultimate
evocation of a region's innate
splendor and the talent of its passionate
producers.
The strong tannins associated with this
vintage have
softened in many of the wines, and the 1990s are
drinking exceptionally well at present,
indicating
the substantive structure and fine fruit
possessed by
the vintage.
Here is a stellar trio that presents the
glory of 1990 in
rare form. All are
exceedingly difficult to find on the market
and
represent the consummate expression
of their house style and distinctive
territorio.
1. Altesino Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva
Altesino introduced the
concept of
cru (a single-vineyard wine) through its
Montosoli Brunello, which remains the
estate's most
lauded offering and one of
the region's standard bearers. When produced,
its
Riserva bottling is known for
realizing a similarly high caliber, and the
1990 is just
such an effort. Debuting
on the market at roughly $60, it has
appreciated more
than 265% in value and
taste.
Altesino 1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $219.99
2. San Felice-Campogiovanni Brunello di
Montalcino Riserva
Campogiovanni, one of three branches
comprising
the San Felice estate, is noted
in particular for its soil, which is
endowed with a
significant concentration
of mineral salts marking the land, as
well as a
propitious combination of
sand and limestone. The terroir
distinguishing this
site in Montalcino precipitates
a steady, yet slow-paced ripening, which is
particularly conducive to producing
vines of significant qualitative
integrity. Produced
only in the best vintages,
Il Quercione represents the ultimate
expression of
Campogiovanni's terroir.
San Felice-Campogiovanni 1990 Brunello Riserva 'Il Quercione' $219.00
3. Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino
The inactive Mount Amiata imbues the
Mastrojanni
estate's 44 hectares of Sangiovese
with great character, as the soils are
rich in gravel,
clay, and limestone.
Its concentrated, full-bodied Brunellos
are collected
by connoisseurs worldwide.
Debuting on the market at an estimated
$27, its
initially prohibitive tannic
structure has relented, opening to reveal a
prodigious beauty of refinement
and complex flavors.
Mastrojanni 1990 Brunello di Montalcino $173.00
Collector's Corner: Castello dei Rampolla
The 1990 vintage provided Castello dei
Rampolla the
ideal context for the crafting of the
estate's famed
Super-Tuscan, Sammarco, a Cabernet-based blend
conceived by
Alceo di Napoli in cooperation with Giacomo
Tachis.
As a pioneer of the Super-Tuscan movement, Alceo
endured fierce criticism for advocating the
synergy
between the Panzano area of Chianti—the
location of Castello dei Rampolla—
and the
varietal of Cabernet Sauvignon,
a position that received initial validation in
Sammarco’s 1980 debut.
In the time since that favorable reception,
Castello dei
Rampolla has become
renowned for its artisanally minded
production of
concentrated, highly ageworthy
wines. Indeed, upon release, the 1990
Sammarco—a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
(95%) and Sangiovese (5%)—delivered an
intense and layered expression,
with profuse black fruits, minerals, and a
distinct
element of tobacco. While
accessible at the time, it clearly
possessed several
years of successive development,
with a projected estimate of two decades. The
rewards of aging are clearly
in effect in the 1990’s current
profile: This
version of Sammarco has
evolved gracefully, exhibiting complex
aromas of
mixed berry fruit and dried
cranberry, with mineral undertones. The
fruit has
become somewhat softer and more evolved,
evidencing
secondary characteristics of tobacco, baked
earth,
and leather.
The 1990 Sammarco
was released on the market at $55 a bottle.
Currently the wine retails
for $200, thereby realizing an appreciation of
approximately 262% in the
past decade and a half.
Castello dei Rampolla 1990 Sammarco $199.00
Wine Tastings at Home
Enoteca A Casa Tua is our way of saying
"IWM brings it home," a
private wine party in your home that is. And
for the
upcoming season it's a nice
departure from that difficult Friday night
dinner
reservation time for six.
Here's how it works. The IWM event team will
basically transform your home
into an enoteca for the evening, recreating
the
experience Sergio just shared
above. Our chefs will prepare Tuscan
classics such
as ribollita, pici
alla lepre, and rosticciana di
maiale alla
griglia in your own kitchen,
while one of our sommeliers will guide you
and your
guests through the wine
and vintage nuances of Italy's esteemed
region of
Montalcino.
The tasting themes are endless and can be
catered to
your taste and preferences.
Perhaps you want to understand the mystique of
Barolo; or better yet, do a
tasting comparison between Barbaresco and
Burgundy. Regardless of the
format or theme, the premise centers on
delivering a
dynamic tasting experience
that encourages open dialogue and group
involvement, stirred by the casual
comfort unique to your own home setting.
To create your own private wine experience,
contact
Caroline Mirschel, Director of Tastings, 212.473.2323, x109.
Brindiamo A Casa Tua!
Saturday Tasting Events
Collecting
Event: Building a Balanced Collection
October 6, 1:00–3:00 pm, $125.00
Please note, this is not a Studio Regionale
event.
Italian Wine Merchants is offering
enthusiasts and
collectors alike the opportunity
to taste rare and fine wines while learning
strategies
for building and maintaining
a balanced wine collection. An IWM
"Cellar
Master" will lead the
seminar while pouring vintage Barolo,
Brunello, and
Super-Tuscans. Attendees will taste eight
Italian
wines and assorted antipasti, which will
be served in IWM's own Studio del Gusto, a
state-of-
the-art wine tasting facility
with a kitchen theater.
A Taste of the IWM Wine Club
October 13, 1:00–3:00 pm, $50.00
There are many wine clubs out there, but how
many
are confident enough in their
benefits to formally introduce themselves? Learn
about the philosophy and structure
of a club that truly exercises the mind and
taste of its
members. The IWM tasting
regimen offers a comprehensive program with four
membership options, catering
to a diverse population of wine enthusiasts.
Discover
the membership of palates in the know. This
seminar is also open to nonmembers of the IWM
Wine Club.
A Study of Barolo's Vintage Streak
October 22, 1:00–3:00 pm, $75.00
Produced in the Langhe Hills of Piemonte,
Barolo is
Italy's “King of Wines.” This
powerful, full-bodied wine can display
elegance, depth
and bold aromatics. Made
from Nebbiolo, a thin-skinned, late-ripener
requiring
high altitude, exceptional
exposure, a unique soil composition, and a cool
climate, it is rarely perfected
outside of Piemonte. At the close of the
millennium
(1995–2001), Mother Nature
blessed the Barolo region with some exceptional
weather, yielding fruit that
produced some more-than-perfect wines. Taste
this
outstanding vintage streak
with IWM.
Participants Receive:
Tasting Booklet that includes IWM’s
proprietary notes
Sampling of regional foods prepared
by IWM
chefs paired with each wine tasted
To learn more about IWM's Saturday
Tasting Events, or to
make a reservation over the phone, contact
Michann Thompson at 212.473.2323, x106.
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