September
22, 2007
Barolo's Contemporary Classics
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
The great wine debate: Traditional vs.
Modern. If I'm
playing judge, traditional usually wins. I
believe that in
general, the time-honored approach results in
more authentic, elegant wines that taste of
the land
from which their grapes
are grown. And when modern goes sloppy—or
greedy—the outcome is usually
a super-sweet, dysfunctional wine that
doesn't have a
hint of territorio to it.
But that doesn't mean that there aren't some
remarkable modernists out there—winemakers
who have utilized technology without being
reckless,
who make wines that beautifully
express their regions, who are true artists
of the vine.
One of the best places to find a great
modernist is in
the Langhe Hills. There,
back in the '80s, a group of passionate young
winemakers banded together. They
included many of today's
luminaries—Clerico,
Sandrone, Altare,
Scavino, Voerzio—then dedicated to
experimenting with all the new, exciting
methodologies coming their way. Dubbed the
"Barolo
Boys," these guys tried out
small casks, tonneaux, barriques, cigarellos.
They
tested short maceration, stainless
steel barrels, temperature-control,
rotofermenters.
They attended lectures together
and traveled the world to find the next big
thing. They
were dedicated, curious,
and working with some of the country's finest
grapes.
More important, they were
respectful of the fruit and of Barolo's
history—they didn't use technology
just for kicks or cash; they used it
delicately, and to
see if they could make
better wine with it.
Today, I'm offering selections by two of
these stars,
Domenico Clerico and Luciano
Sandrone. These Barolo Boys have grown up a
lot in
the last 25 years, since they
first began their grand exploration of
technology. Now,
Clerico and Sandrone
epitomize how a non-traditional approach,
implemented gracefully, can result
in fantastic wines. Clerico's decadent
Dolcettos and
Barolos consistently overflow
with fruit and color, while Sandrone's
Barolos are
substantial, concentrated,
pure, and balanced.
I may be a traditionalist, but if you had to
present a
case for modernism, these
two Barolos would be pretty solid evidence of
its
success. Enjoy.
My best,
Sergio
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Domenico Clerico: Unabashedly Bold Barolo
While Domenico Clerico is often positioned in
Piemonte’s modernist school
(along with Sandrone, Scavino, and
Voerzio), he
actually is in a class by
himself—practicing
a contemporary approach to winemaking that
marries two seemingly antithetical
terms—Big and Barolo. Clerico’s
winemaking boldly breaks from Barolo’s
archetype with the use of small new oak
barrels and attainment of high levels of extraction through
short maceration periods with rotary fermenters.
Ultimately, this creates a rounder Barolo with
enhanced richness, depth,
and concentration not typically associated
with the
wine's traditional style. However, it should
be noted
that with the 2006 vintage, Clerico is taking
a step back,
experimenting with maceration periods lasting as
long
as 18-23 days.
Rooted at the core of Clerico’s winemaking
philosophy is his staunch conviction that
the
quality of the vines is the sole factor determining a wine's potential.
Appropriately enough, the
producer
champions the virtues
of territorio by crafting
single-vineyard bottlings
that express the
distinct character of the land. Ironically,
despite the buildup that surrounds his
progressive
winemaking practices, Clerico
dismisses production techniques as mere
tools of
the trade—they are not intrinsic
components of the wine itself.
Clerico 'Ciabot Mentin Ginestra'
The 2003 vintage provided Clerico the
perfect context in which to showcase his
opulence.
This extreme vintage played right into
Clerico’s
hands, filling
them with concentrated
grapes that found their rich character
exalted in
Clerico’s intense Ginestra
tribute, conveyed in a dense core of fruit, with
chewy tannins that offer a glimpse into the
wine's
aging potential. Though Clerico's wines seem
deceptively approachable, this wine will fair
best with
age.
Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra—the house
flagship—derives from grapes
cultivated in the celebrated Ginestra cru of
Barolo’s Monforte d’Alba.
Clerico initially purchased 3.3 hectares in
Ginestra in
1981 and enlarged his
holdings in 2001, with the acquisition of an
additional
5.4 hectares. While Clerico
aged Ciabot for a period of time exclusively
in 700-liter
tonneaux, the current
aging regimen entails maturation in barrique
(90%
new) for a period of 18 to
20 months, followed by six to eight months of
bottle
age.
Clerico 2003 Barolo 'Ciabot Mentin Ginestra' $85.95*
*Indicates Pre-arrival
We
are also offering additional bottlings from
two of the
producer’s premier
vintages—1998 and 1990. The ’98
benefited from the favorable climate
conditions, which endowed the wine with
power and
structure while imbuing it
with intense aromatic expression and balance.
Secondly, but only in terms of
sequence, is the landmark 1990
vintage ‘Ciabot Mentin
Ginestra’ which,
alongside Sandrone’s
1990 Barolo ‘Cannubi Boschis,’
highlights the ripeness that afforded
this vintage its legendary status.
Quantities of these
wines are limited, as the amount of
vintage Clerico wines currently available on
the market
is minute—adding to the rarity of this
offer.
Clerico 1998 Barolo
'Ciabot Mentin Ginestra' $198.00^
Clerico 1990 Barolo 'Ciabot Mentin Ginestra'
$297.00^
^Limited Quantities
Clerico 'Pajanà'
Pajanà—a gift to Clerico from his
father—derives from a site
that is positioned at an altitude of 300
meters. While
this bottling tends to
be somewhat reticent on the nose, it is quite
forthcoming on the palate. As is
to be expected, this is particularly the case
in the
’03 rendition,
which proffers ultra-ripe fruit in concert
with sizable
tannins from both the fruit and oak. The
latter—as
with many of Clerico’s ’03
offerings—necessitates a period
of decanting (four to five hours) in order to
release its
substantive provision
of fruit. While it drinks well today, this
wine would
benefit from at least five years in the
cellar to acheive
optimal appreciation.
Clerico 2003 Barolo 'Pajanà' $85.95*
*Indicates Pre-arrival
Clerico Barolo
This offering represents Clerico’s sole
multisource Barolo. The ’02
rendition has been one of the standout
performers in
the challenging 2002 vintage,
illuminating a winemaker’s deft
ability to elicit
an expression that
shows up the vintage, putting the winemaker in
consummate control. Clerico
defied ’02’s prognosis by
meticulously
sourcing the best fruit
from his holdings in the Ginestra and Mosconi
vineyards, thus solidifying his faith in the
land and its
potential to override climatic conditions.
It is a quintessential Clerico in the
intensity of its
nose—which does
not modestly conceal the heat of the
wine’s
alcohol. The tannins are
sized proportionately, creating a tension
between
density and austerity which makes the wine
somewhat overwhelming initially.
However, with a period of decanting
(approximately four to five hours), those
tannins
relent, allowing the core
of dried cherry fruit, spice, earth, and an
herbal
dimension to emerge.
Clerico 2002 Barolo $56.95
Clerico's Blend & Beyond
Clerico Arte
Arte—a blend of Nebbiolo (90%) and
Barbera
(10%)—provides an exceptional
palate primer to the style of Domenico
Clerico, but it
also serves as a consummate
intro to Piemonte’s radical
blends—wines that defied DOC parameters in
both vinification technique and varietal
composition.
Inspired by Valentino’s Bricco Manzoni
(1976)
and followed up by Conterno-Fantino’s
Monprà (1985), Clerico’s Arte
bottling—which he
conceived in collaboration with
Marc de Grazia—participated in a
significant
period of transition in
Piemontese winemaking.
Arte provides one of the most unabashed
illustrations of Clerico's oftentimes
controversial style.
At present, Arte is the
only wine in Clerico’s
portfolio that is aged exclusively in new
barrique; for a
brief period of time,
Clerico employed new barrique exclusively
for all of
his wines, though he soon
moderated these absolute tendencies, with new
barrels constituting between
35 and 40% of his cooperage.
Clerico
2002 Arte $39.95
Clerico 2003 Arte $79.00 (1.5L)
Clerico Barbera Tre Vigne
Barbera’s no longer required to
maintain the
lean and lithe frame of
its early days—and some have taken great
liberty with the broad stylistic
range available. Clerico’s 2004
Barbera is
one that’s not watching
its figure, as it goes quite beyond the
proportions of
the traditional model’s
frame. However, while highly concentrated,
it still
carries the signature dried
cherry and raspberry fruits of the grape,
underlied by
an earthy spice dimension.
These aspects emerge more fully with time
in the
glass, revealing an unexpected
depth and concentration.
Clerico 2004 Barbera d'Alba Tre Vigne $29.95
Clerico Dolcetto Visadi
This version of Piemonte’s
“little sweet
one” isn’t
so little—but it’s not just
another lush,
deep-purple quaffer.
While flaunting its dimensions in a
profusely berried
nose, the palate is not
quite so forward, exercising restraint in a
surprising
display of tannic vigor.
This statement is issued against a
background of
spicy, plummy fruit that carries
an intriguing herbal note. Unlike most
others in the
varietal category, this
Dolcetto sees a brief period in new
barrique, a
practice that enhances the
wine’s demonstrative character.
Clerico 2005 Dolcetto Visadi $19.99
Luciano Sandrone: Setting a Cellar Standard
Luciano Sandrone is at
the forefront of Barolo’s
contemporary class. In contrast to
Clerico’s unabashedly progressive
approach, Sandrone asserts more subtle methods
to craft Barolo that is both
accessible within a few years of its
release, and
capable of
developing beautifully with proper
age. His capacity to bridge these objectives was
cultivated during his tenure at the historic
Marchesi di
Barolo estate, where respect for winemaking
tradition
was deeply instilled and
reinforced by his intrinsic drive
and dedication to detail
in both vineyard and cellar.
Sandrone’s style
vaunts heightened
structure, richness, and intensity achieved
through
rapid extraction. Furthermore, his
forward-minded
methods
yield wines that appeal to the collector, as
they are
equipped with the quality and ability to
age alongside their more traditionally crafted
counterparts. His 1990 'Cannubi Boschis' has
joined
the
ranks of such landmark wines as the ’64
Mascarello, ’71 Monfortino, and the
’82
Giacosa.
Sandrone 'Cannubi Boschis'
Showcasing this single-vineyard star leads
us back
to the inherent quality
of the 1998 vintage, and the proposed
value in
revisiting this collectible
gem. While Sandrone’s ‘82,
‘85, ‘89 and ‘90 ‘Cannubi
Boschis’ bottlings unquestionably
reside
among the greats of Barolo,
the producer’s more recent endeavors
(1996–2001) are quickly joining
these ranks. The promise of the ‘98
is clearly
revealed in its abounding
layers of ripe fruit, rich complexity,
and dense
structure.
This singular expression bears the name of the
prestigious Cannubi Boschis
vineyard from which its grapes are sourced.
This
historically rich and esteemed
vineyard designate encompasses two hectares of
sandy calcareous clay soil facing
south to southeast at an altitude of
250 to 290 meters
above sea level. This prime
vineyard plot consists of three subplots
that are
harvested, vinified, and
aged separately for the first year. Each
lends a
distinct character to the
wine creating a harmoniously balanced
bottling that
reflects superior territorio
and an unwavering level of consistency. The
vines,
ranging from 26 to 31 years
of age, are lauded for their yields of
superlative
grapes despite unstable
climatic conditions.
‘Cannubi Boschis’ sleekly
conveys Sandrone’s polished
style with significant weight and structure,
indicating its
aging potential for
decades to come. This limited production
saw under
700 cases released, and
was quickly allocated. Thus, this is a truly
extraordinary opportunity to obtain
this landmark Barolo for future
appreciation.
Sandrone 1998 Barolo 'Cannubi Boschis'
$169.00*
Sandrone 1998 Barolo 'Cannubi Boschis' $349.00
(1.5L)*
Sandrone 1998 Barolo 'Cannubi Boschis' $750.00
(3.0L)*
*Indicates Pre-arrival
Sandrone Le Vigne
This collector's wine is often overshadowed
by the
acclaim of Sandrone's single-vineyard 'Cannubi
Boschis,' but this underdog presents a value
and oppurtunity to experience Barolo from one of
Piemonte's most consistent producers. Le Vigne
incorporates Nebbiolo from the vineyard
sites of Merli (Novella),
Ceretta (Serralunga), Conterni
(Monforte), and
Vignane (Barolo). The grapes
are fermented separately in stainless
steel for a
period of up to 20 days.
After natural malolactic fermentation,
the wine is
then aged in 600-liter
French oak tonneaux for 24 months
followed by a
year of aging in bottle prior
to its release. The 2001 provides
longevity with
elegant and well-integrated tannins that
highlight the
underlying power and structure of this ripe
wine.
Sandrone 2001 Barolo Le Vigne $129.95
Sandrone 2001 Barolo Le Vigne $279.95 (1.5L)
Sandrone 2001 Barolo Le Vigne $575.00 (3.0L)
Collector's Corner: The Starter Kit
A New Package for Buying and Cellaring Wines
What wines should I buy for the holidays and
which
can I keep for a ten-year anniversary? How do
I keep
track of that Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Vigna
d'la
Roul I enjoyed at Del Posto last Friday so I
can order it
again? When should I drink the 2001
Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici? These are
typical
questions for the enthusiast and collector
that IWM
Portfolio Managers field daily. With this in
mind, we
are supplying a package that provides the
foundation
for better buying and management of wines—whether
you have a wine fridge, rack, or cellar.
The package we are offering is the Balanced
Cellar
Club, which features three bottles
delivered each month: an everyday drinker
suited for
casual
enjoyment, an entertainment wine appropriate for
formal occasions, and a cellar selection to
lay down to
preserve its maximum expression. This comprehensive offering accommodates
short, medium, and long-term needs.
This package also includes your own personal online
account, which allows you to research, track,
record,
and analyze your wines. Another highlight is
having
access to dedicated IWM advisors on buying and
maintaining the collection.
Package Includes:
- Three Wines per Month
- Vino Italiano (531 pp.)
- Invitation to Exclusive Annual Event
- Online Wine Tracking Tool
- Personal Cellar Master
- Bottle Tags with Drink Terms
- Cellar Management e-Letter
- Monthly Newsletter
Saturday Tasting Events
A
Taste of Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino
September 29, 1:00–3:00 pm, $50.00
This marks the debut of a featured producer
vertical in
IWM’s Studio
Regionale tasting series. Why Valentino
Migliorini?
There are several producers
who merit such treatment and Piemonte has more
than its share, many of whom
are definitive figures in either the
traditional or
contemporary schools. While
Valentino technically belongs to the
latter, given his
defiance of the area’s
traditional varietal constituency and
practices, an
element of elegance imbues
and effectively restrains the modern
character of his
wines. Thus, this prominent
member of Barolo’s patriarchy changes
the
stereotype of the modern wine,
redefining what it means to be labeled
modern in the
Langhe Hills.
This tasting will include Rocche dei
Manzoni’s Brut Zero, Dolcetto, Barbera
and single-vineyard Barolo Big Vertical
1995, 1996,
and 1997.
Special
Event: Wine
Collecting
An IWM Approach to Building a Balanced
Collection
October 6, 1:00–3:00 pm,
$125.00
Join us for a special tasting dedicated to
the fine art of
creating and maintaining
a balanced wine collection. Whether you are an
experienced collector or an
aspiring enthusiast, this seminar will
introduce you
to IWM’s Wine Collecting
and Cellar Management Solutions. Learn how an
IWM Portfolio Manager can help
you establish short- and long-term goals for
collecting and cellaring based
on your palate and budget; how to track,
research
and chart your purchases
and consumption through our proprietary
online wine
tracking tool; and how
a dedicated Cellar Master will help
supervise and
maintain your online Cellar
Account. This tasting will showcase a
selection of
collectible wines intended
for aging, wines intended for entertaining,
and wines
that are ideal for everyday
consumption.
Participants Receive:
Tasting Booklet that includes IWM’s
proprietary notes
Sampling of regional foods prepared
by IWM
chefs paired with each wine tasted
To learn more about IWM's Studio Regionale
Saturday
Tasting Series, or to
make a reservation over the phone, contact
Michann
Thompson at 212.473.2323,
x106.
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