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August 30, 2007
Barolo: Summer's Unlikely Hero


In This Issue

A Note from Sergio
Every autumn that I pass through the Langhe Hills, I stop off in the village of La Morra just for its panoramic view. From this hilltop, you can see the patchwork quilt of land below—the fields of green and gold, the limestone soil, the trimmed vines, the trees shedding their red leaves.

Here in this quaint village, I will often find myself at Ristorante Belvedere, where they serve classic Piemontese dishes: tartare di fassone con tartufo bianco d’Alba, ravioli del plin, brasato al Barolo. And of course, I drink what I always considered the finest wine to drink in the fall and winter: The King of Wines, Barolo.

But I've changed my mind about Barolo's seasonality. I no longer think it is fair to classify it as a cold weather wine, and apparently, I'm not alone. Recently we have put together three tasting events—IWM's Barolo Vintage Streak Seminar, Babbo's Vintage Barolo Dinner, Babbo's 1998 Barolo Dinner—and they all sold out. At IWM's upcoming Barolo Vintage Streak Seminar (encore), only limited seating remains. All of this in the middle of the summer.

So the conventional wisdom is being challenged. Maybe it's because wine drinkers are becoming more flexible. Or maybe it's because the Langhe produced a six-year streak of incredible wines, from 1996 to 2001. For connoisseurs it may be old news, but the fact remains, it's a wine phenomenon. Mother Nature may have granted her blessings in pockets (1885–1887, 1978–1980, 1988–1990), but never for six straight years. Maybe it's too hard to resist such greatness, even when it's hot outside.

Whether you are a collector or an enthusiast, whether you want to save your bottles for winter or rebel and drink them now, there really is no better time to buy Barolo. Today, I'm offering the vintage streak sampler for the aspiring enthusiast and some insight on Granbussia 2000 and the revered 1990 for the collector.

Enjoy your Barolo, whenever you like.

My best,
Sergio

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Barolo Vintage Sampler

This is the ideal sampler for the enthusiast who wishes to experience six sensational vintages that celebrate Barolo's story with rare panache. This special period in Piemonte’s wine history—spanning 1996 through 2001—ordained weather that sanctioned the delivery of wines collectively evoking the breadth of Piemonte’s terroir and communes, as well as the stylistic range authored by its producers.

This sampler comprises all six years, allowing you to explore the distinct merits of each, as well as the two primary classifications used to define these years: the ripe and approachable contingent—represented by 1997, 1998, and 2000—and the structure and finesse captured by 1996, 1999, and 2001. The selected bottlings, of course, serve as some of the most eligible ambassadors of their respective years, including Bussia Soprana, Aldo Conterno’s introductory Barolo; Vigna d’la Roul, Rocche dei Manzoni’s elegant single-vineyard Barolo; Bovio's classic and aromatic Rocchettevino; the dense and modern Vigneto Terlo Ravera of Abbona; the lush and layered Corino Barolo Giachini; and Virna’s elegant yet rich Cannubi Boschis, one of only two cru representations of this famed site. No better way to toast the new wine for all seasons….

Barolo Vintage Streak Sampler Includes:
Rocche dei Manzoni 1996 Barolo 'Vigna d'la Roul' $68.00
Bovio 1997 Barolo ‘Rocchettevino’ $68.71
Corino 1998 Barolo Giachini $58.95
Aldo Conterno 1999 Barolo 'Bussia Soprana' $69.50

Virna 2000 Barolo 'Cannubi Boschis' $54.70
Abbona 2001 Barolo 'Vigneto Terlo Ravera' $49.95
Detailed Map of Barolo's Communes (Click to View)

Barolo Vintage Streak Sampler for the Enthusiast...$369.81*
*Free Delivery in Manhattan


Wine Collector's Corner

This offering marks the second release of a new section that will appear in our e-Letter, dedicated to the collector and our Cellar Management Program. Each selection represents a wine of restricted availability—often a vintage or limited production release. These are wines that you may (or may not) find at an auction house; however, our offering ensures the provenance and integrity of Sergio’s Cellar.

Last week’s offering of the Altesino Brunello Riserva spotlighted the heralded vintage of 1990. We remain with this impeccable year for a second week, illustrating its character through Aldo Conterno’s Granbussia. Released on the market a decade ago, it has appreciated 350%, retailing now for $479 a bottle. Moreover, it is quite unlikely that you will find it elsewhere, as 600 cases constitute the typical case production—and 1990 is considered by many to be the wine’s marquee offering. We present the Granbussia along with its current release counterpart—representing 2000, another stellar vintage release—so you can consider some investment options for your cellar.

It should be noted that vintages 1990 and 2000 share similar characteristics with respect to levels of ripeness, and both derive from an early harvest precipitated by a warm growing season. With almost two decades of age, the 1990 is drinking brilliantly right now, although the fruit’s vibrancy intimates its promise for years to come. The 2000 offers the Granbussia signature—sweet young fruit accompanied by nuances of vanilla, spice, and licorice that render this wine prematurely accessible in its youth. Avoid temptation: cellar the 2000 Granbussia and look to the 1990 for current drinking, or explore Aldo’s cru Barolos (Cicala, Colonello, Bussia Soprana, and Romirasco) from select vintages for value. Contact a Portfolio Manager to learn more about this producer.

Aldo Conterno 2000 Barolo Granbussia Riserva $279.00
Aldo Conterno 1990 Barolo Granbussia Riserva $479.95*

*Available as Prearrival


Saturday Tasting Events

A Taste of the New Wine Club
September 1, 1:00–3:00 pm, $50.00
The word Club might imply members-only, but this tasting of wines from the IWM Wine Club is open to all seeking serious involvement with stellar wines. In fact, the only exclusive element of this tasting is the wine list, which features coveted bottlings that you'll likely never see poured at another public tasting. This is a rare opportunity to gain exposure to a group of high-caliber wines that collectively represent all tiers of IWM’s Monthly Wine Clubs. Highlights this month include a Valpolicella bottling from cult producer Romano Dal Forno; Argiano’s famed Super-Tuscan, Solengo; and the critically acclaimed Bob Dylan wine—Planet Waves—produced by the Le Terrazze estate. We're also bringing to the table Casisano-Colombaio's Brunello from the benchmark 1997 vintage and Roagna’s 1996 Barolo—an outstanding bottling from the vintage that marked the commencement of Barolo's six-year Vintage Streak. Don’t miss this opportunity to taste these standout selections from IWM’s Wine Club!

A Taste of Wine and Cheese Pairings
September 8, 1:00–3:00 pm, $50.00
Today, the pairing of wine and cheese is considered an art form. However, this classic pairing is something that Italians have perfected over the years and demonstrate a natural inclination for. From a very young age, Italians are taught the importance of how a great pairing can enhance the flavor of the wine, while improving the taste of the cheese. To be sure, that very first drop of wine that most Italian kids receive from an elderly relative “to help them grow” was most likely accompanied by a hearty chunk of a particular special cheese. So how does the young Pecorino complement the Chianti or the Super-Tuscan? Does the aromatic Gorgonzola have the presence to take on and show well against the opulence of an Amarone? What types tend to hit it off, making for some palate sparks? Learn how to match fine Italian wines and artisanal cheeses effortlessly with IWM.

A Taste of Second Labels
September 15, 1:00–3:00 pm, $50.00
With a generous offering of world-class labels to choose from, Italian wine enthusiasts may be surprised to discover what's inside their favorite producer's so-called "second-label" wine. Because they come from the same vineyards and are made by the same winemaking team as the estate's first wine, second-label wines are usually intended to be more approachable in price and drinkability. Yet, they nevertheless capture the individual style of the estate and the distinctive taste of the soil—or what Italians refer to as territorio. This tasting will explore the second bottlings of top Italian producers such as Tenuta San Guido, Montevertine, Aldo Conterno, and more.

A Study of Barolo's Vintage Streak (Encore Presentation)
September 22, 1:00–3:00 pm, $75.00
Produced in the Langhe Hills of Piemonte, Barolo is Italy's "King of Wines." This powerful, full-bodied wine can display elegance, depth, and bold aromatics. Made from Nebbiolo, a thin-skinned, late-ripener requiring high altitude, exceptional exposure, a unique soil composition, and a cool climate, it is rarely perfected outside of Piemonte. At the close of the millennium (1995–2001), Mother Nature blessed the Barolo region with some exceptional weather, yielding fruit that produced some more-than-perfect wines. Taste this outstanding vintage streak with IWM.

Participants Receive:
  • Tasting Booklet that includes IWM’s proprietary notes
  • Sampling of regional foods prepared by IWM chefs paired with each wine tasted

  • To learn more about IWM's Studio Regionale Saturday Tasting Series, or to make a reservation over the phone, contact Michann Thompson at 212.473.2323, x106.


    Newport Mansions Event

    Newport Mansions Wine & Food Festival
    If you are in the Rhode Island area, we invite you to join us at the 2007 Newport Mansions Wine & Food Festival in Newport. IWM will be participating in several events from September 27–29.

    VIP Wine Dinner: Toscana vs. Piemonte
    Thursday, September 27, 6:30 PM
    Rosecliff Dining Room
    Limited to 10 guests, $250 per person

    Join Sergio Esposito for an intimate six-course dinner featuring a variety of vintage wines from Toscana and Piemonte. The selected wines have been paired with a special menu from Fine Catering by Russell Morin.  Sergio will discuss the fine art of matching wines with food to create the perfect meal.

    Wine Collector Seminar with Sergio Esposito: The Reclusive Masters of the Boot
    Friday, September 28, 12:00 PM – 1:00 PM
    Rosecliff Dining Room
    Limited to 25 guests, $125 per person

    Gravner, Mascarello, Salvioni, Manetti, Quintarelli, Bea—these are a few of the iconoclastic names in Italian winemaking. Each has produced a wine that allows the individuality of the artist to show through, leaving comparison to any wine difficult. They disregard the status quo and market demand, paradoxically joining the avant-garde by reverting to time-honored methods or to Nature's own auspices. Their guidelines often include low yields, choice grape selection, open vat fermentation, extended maceration, long maturation, and respect for tradition, releasing wines when they themselves deem it appropriate, not when the media or consorzio does. IWM is pleased to showcase some of these avant garde and most difficult-to-obtain handcrafted wines of Italy. Each wine demonstrates the unique style of the producer, from the powerful and complex whites of the reclusive Josko Gravner to the signature sediment trademark of Paolo Bea.

    Grand Tasting
    Saturday, September 29, 12:00 PM – 4:00 PM
    Marble House Lawn
    $55 for Preservation Society Members, $65 for Non-members

    IWM will be on-site at The Grand Tasting, pouring wines such as vintage Barolo, limited production Brunello, an esoteric Friulian white, and more.

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