June
29, 2007
Barolo Monfortino 2000 & More
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
After a long, hot day pushing my way through the
airports during the height
of vacation season, I've finally arrived in
Italy for the
first leg of my summer
tour of wineries. I decided early this year
that my first
stop would be Siena;
here, they're putting on one of the world's
most
unique and exciting horse
races. The Palio, as the race is called,
takes place in
Siena's medieval Piazza
del Campo, where ancient buildings rise up
around
a circular racetrack.
Over 60,000 people gather to watch as 17
jockeys in
colorful costumes ride
barebacked horses at lightning speed. The
first
horse to cross the finish line
wins, with or without his jockey atop. The
Palio is like
the running of the
bulls or the fourth of July: A summer event
that
captures the sense of a place,
of its people, its history, its energy.
Perhaps no other single wine captures this same
sense of place and tradition
as does Giacomo Conterno's Barolo
Monfortino--it's
a monument not only to traditional
Barolo but also the spirit of Italian
winemaking. The
below list of Monfortinos,
along with Cascina Francias, is headlined
by the
2000 vintage and culminates
with two special Riserva bottlings from
1937 and
1958. I've
also
put together a
six-pack of wines that demonstrate
Piemonte's reach
into the summer season.
The Barbera's acidity cuts through the fat
of a sirloin;
the Dolcetto accents
a tray of prosciutto perfectly; and the
Nebbiolo spices
up a platter of grilled
sausages.
Enjoy the celebrations.
My Best,
Sergio
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About Giacomo Conterno
[jah-ko-mo kon-tehr-no]
Cantina Conterno
originated in 1908 when Giovanni
Conterno began making wines. While not technically
labeled Monfortino at
the time—the name constituted
Giovanni’s homage to his home village
of Monforte d’Alba—the now legendary
riserva was born in 1912,
the product and tangible evocation of Giovanni's
emphasis on premium quality
Barolo. He regarded the latter as being the exclusive
province of great vintages—the
wines of which realize prime aging potential through
long fermentation and
aging periods. His son, Giacomo, not only inherited
this philosophy, but afforded
it heightened expression.
Brothers Giovanni and Aldo both began their careers
in the early 1950s with
their father, Giacomo. However, with a divisive split in
view over the style
of their wines, Aldo departed in 1969 to found the
Favot cellar. Giovanni continued at his father's
estate, initially fashioning wine from purchased
grapes derived from local
sources, in accordance with the methodology
established by Giacomo. In 1974,
however, Giovanni acquired Cascina Francia in
Serralunga d'Alba, an acquisition that
enabled him to produce wines from estate grapes.
Upon Giovanni’s recent passing, his son,
Roberto, assumed direction
of the estate, adhering to the traditional practices that
have defined the
winery’s orientation since its inception. He
has introduced modification
only with respect to reducing the length of maceration
and limiting the varietals
cultivated to Nebbiolo and Barbera.
Only the highest quality grapes from Cascina Francia
in Serralunga are utilized for the estate’s two
renowned
Barolos: Cascina Francia and
the legendary Riserva Monfortino. The densely
planted Francia Vineyard features
a southwest exposure and rests approximately 500
meters above sea level. The
grapes derived from this site possess tannic depth,
creating wines that possess
ideal structure for the cellar.
Cascina Francia 2003
[bah-(l)roh-lo kah-shee-nah frahn-chah]
The distinction between the two wines is not rooted in
the vineyard, but rather,
in the vinification regime undertaken, with the main
difference deriving from
the length of the maceration period. While Cascina
Francia’s maceration
period is three to four weeks, the Monfortino’s may extend over a five-week
period. Moreover,
in the case of the latter, there is no attempt made to
control temperature—a
weighty risk that carries the potential of sacrificing the
entire production.
Cascina Francia represents classic Barolo, offering
“good body, alcohol,
and tannins, plus that certain something that gives
longevity”—elements
that represent the pillars of a noble wine in the
philosophy of Giacomo Conterno.
The maturation period typically see four years of oak
aging; good vintages yield
only 1,500 cases. The 2003 release showcases a
softer and more approachable side of Cascina Francia
with generous fruit allowing for early consumption.
Giacomo
Conterno 2003 Barolo Cascina Francia $99.95*
Giacomo Conterno 2003 Barolo Cascina Francia
$249.95 (1.5L)*
Giacomo Conterno 2000 Barolo Cascina Francia
$249.00 (1.5L)
Giacomo Conterno 1998 Barolo Cascina Francia
$119.95*
*Indicates prearrival sale.
Barolo Monfortino 2000
[bah-(l)roh-lo mon-fo(l)r-tee-no]
Barolo Monfortino is crafted exclusively in
vintages of
the highest caliber.
Between the years of 1959 and 2000, it has
made
only 22 out of a possible 41
appearances, averaging less than 600 cases in
each vintage. Regarded as the
most significant Barolo on the
collector’s
market, Monfortino undergoes
longer maceration (an average of 35 days,
in contrast
to the typical 14-day provision) and
maturation periods
than
those of any other Barolo. While
it typically sees six or seven years in
Slavonian oak
(DOCG regulations require
only two years), certain vintages have
realized 10
years in oak. A wine of
superior structure and
ethereal qualities, Monfortino is the most
tannic and
longest-lived of all
Piemonte’s Barolos; case production is
typically limited to approximately 600-800
cases. The
2000 bottling maintains its hallmark
structure along
with the ripe fruit that is representative of
the vintage.
Giacomo Conterno
2000 Barolo Monfortino Riserva $371.25*
Giacomo Conterno 2000 Barolo Monfortino Riserva
$799.95 (1.5L)*
Giacomo Conterno 1999 Barolo Monfortino Riserva
$1,650.00 (3.0L)
Giacomo Conterno 1996 Barolo Monfortino Riserva
$590.50*^
Giacomo Conterno 1995 Barolo Monfortino Riserva
$295.00*^
Giacomo Conterno 1993 Barolo Monfortino Riserva
$295.00*^
Giacomo Conterno 1988 Barolo Monfortino Riserva
$529.50*^
In addition to Monfortino, the Conterno
estate released a separate Barolo Riserva
from select
vintages—a practice that occurred
up until 1980. It is of note that during the
estate’s eight-plus decades
of winemaking, a separate Riserva
bottling
was produced only in roughly ten vintages,
making these true collector's gems.
The 1958
vintage represents the last joint winemaking
effort
between Giacomo and his son Giovanni. For
information on this special offering, please
contact
Matt Franco at 212.473.2323,
x107.
Giacomo Conterno 1958 Barolo Riserva
$629.95*^
Giacomo Conterno 1937 Barolo Riserva $875.95*^
*Indicates prearrival sale.
^Limited quantities available.
Piemonte Summer Staples
We typically associate the wines of Piemonte with
autumn, a connection that
is derived in large part from the most sought after of
culinary pleasures,
Barolo and truffles.
However, there’s another food
category—namely,
the eminently popular barbeque class of
summer—where wines with structure and the
partnering skills of
Piemonte’s signatures demand more
modest pours. These six summer wine staples from
Piemonte invite a multitude of mix-and-match pairings
featuring summer's favorite foods.
Abbona Barolo 'Ravera'
[bah-(l)roh-lo (l)rah-veh-(l)rah]
Yes—we did urge you to leave your cellar
reds behind you for awhile, as you engage with wines
that aren't so sensitive to the heat and more
importantly, don't weigh your palate down. However,
you're certainly not abandoning hearty
fare—the grill, after all, is all about
red—meat, that is. So, you'll need to keep a few
from the cellar crew within reach —particularly
one like Abbona's Vigneto Terlo Ravera. This bottling
is quite open about its vintage identity, providing a
demonstrative expression of 2000's ripeness. The
nose proffers dark red fruits, a hint of tar, and
secondary notes of
leather and tobacco. The palate mirrors the dark red
fruit aromatics; an herbal essence and tea notes also
contribute to the flavor profile. The finish is one of
impressive length, and you'll linger over your glass
long past the final bites of your filet mignon or
marinated pork tenderloin.
Abbona 2000 Barolo 'Ravera' $49.95
Giacosa Nebbiolo d’Alba
[jah-ko-zah nehb-byoh-lo dahl-bah]
While Nebbiolo may not be the first grape that comes
to mind when thinking of summer pours, you need
only consider the rich meat dishes that constitute
such a formidable share of the Piemonte table, with
game meats representing a sizable portion. The
savory quality of your ribs and brisket will be aptly
matched by the warm herbal tones and dried fruits of
Giacosa's classic Nebbiolo. This rustic fare will tame
the wine's tannic grip as the wine's incisive acidity, in
turn, cuts through the meat's ample fat.
Bruno Giacosa 2004 Nebbiolo d’Alba $39.90
Grimaldi Barbera d’Alba
[bah(l)r-beh-(l)rah dahl-bah]
As we established in our first Summer Wines e-Letter
(Click for Summer Wines of the North),
Barbera is an essential food
wine, and the one you want
awaiting most everything that
comes off your grill.
“Barbera is exactly
what you want for those burgers sizzling on the
grill…. It offers you
fruit—lots of spicy cherry and raspberry
flavors—but it’s
shaped by a bracing acidity." And
this example by Grimaldi has just
that—the bite to balance
its juicy red-fruit character. In fact, the high levels of
acidity and alcohol at work here issue a virtual
demand for food, turning this exceptional
pizza companion into a pour
for all grilled red meats, offering a special affinity with
those burgers (preferably sirloin).
Bruna Grimaldi 2004 Barbera d’Alba Scassa $22.13
Aldo Conterno Dolcetto
[ahl-do kon-teh(l)r-no dol-
cheht-to]
While Dolcetto typically does not carry an acidity of the
bite and burr kind, this exceptional expression of
Piemonte's most generous wine is not reticent in this
respect.
Crafted by Barolo master Aldo Conterno (incidentally,
the
premier Barolo producers
are known for producing superb bottlings of
Piemonte’s less famous wines), this bottling
earns a position right next to that
Barbera. While it delivers
an aromatic nose with a slight floral tone, a profile
that finds its complement
in a palate delivering rich blue fruits, the impressive
tannins possess the
brawn and bravura to complement prosciutto or
summer's
classic sausage-and-peppers dish.
Aldo Conterno 2005 Dolcetto Masante $23.95
Cantalupo Rosato Il Mimo
[kahn-tah-loo-poh (l)ro-zah-to il-
mee-mo]
The IWM office was abuzz—sure, it was Friday,
but talk centered on the
imminent arrival of a staff favorite—Il Mimo.
This enchanting character
is particularly unique, as Nebbiolo is rarely vinified as
a rosé; in
order to achieve its peachy blush shade, the grape
skins are permitted a one-night-only
engagement with the must. This is an essential buy-
by-the-case selection for
the season—as one IWM staff member
captured it so very poignantly, “It
tastes like summer....” You’ll find
summer too in its delightful
fragrance and flavors of light raspberry and
strawberry. It’s a pleasure
in and of itself or served as an accompaniment to
light salads and grilled
white meats.
Cantalupo 2006 Rosato Il Mimo $14.30
Forteto della Luja Moscato
[fo(l)r-teht-to dehl-lah loo-yah mos-
kah-to]
This off-dry sparkler by Moscato specialist Forteto
della Luja is the perfect
after-dinner quaffer for your summer revels that
extend into the late evening.
There is no pairing required here, but it would take
quite well to being matched
with an angel food cake or strawberry shortcake (with
cream on top), as well
as its traditional partner, biscotti.
Forteto della Luja 2005 Moscato d'Asti Piasa $14.85
Summer Staples Samplers Include:
Abbona 2000 Barolo ‘Vigneto Terlo
Ravera’
Bruno Giacosa 2004 Nebbiolo d’Alba
Bruna Grimaldi 2004 Barbera d’Alba
Scassa
Aldo Conterno 2005 Dolcetto Masante
Cantalupo 2006 Rosato Il Mimo
Forteto della Luja 2005 Moscato d'Asti Piasa
Summer Staples Six-Pack (1 of each)...$165.08
Summer Staples Tasting Case (2 of each)...$303.75*
*Free delivery in Manhattan.
New Studio Regionale
IWM's Saturday Tastings Series
Returns
Saturday tastings at IWM's Studio del Gusto will
continue through the summer
months in two distinct presentation formats:
• “A Taste of” program is for
those
seeking a casual tasting experience,
providing a general regional/topical overview in a
walk-around, relaxed context.
• “A Study of” program takes on
a
more formal and sophisticated
approach, addressing the history and philosophy of
the wines considered, and
caters to those looking to refine their wine knowledge
and tasting ability.
This “sit-down” offering presents the
wine in the framework of
a regional overview, followed by a Q&A
session.
Participants Receive:
• Tasting Booklet that includes IWM’s
proprietary notes
• Sampling of regional foods prepared by IWM
chefs
paired with each wine tasted
A Study of Friuli
June 30, 1:00–3:00 pm, $75.00
Friuli-Venezia Giulia is Italy's white grape bastion,
producing an extensive
repertoire of both indigenous and international
varieties. Surprisingly, Friuli
also possesses a healthy relationship with red
varietals, and international favorites
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot more than hold their
own with the native reds.
Enter this discovery zone and find an all-around
performer that plays both its
whites and reds well....
A Taste of the IWM Wine Club
July 7, 1:00–3:00 pm, $50.00
There are many wine clubs out there, but how many
are confident enough in their
benefits to formally introduce themselves? Learn
about the philosophy and structure
of a club that truly exercises the mind and taste of its
members. The IWM tasting
regimen offers a comprehensive program with three
membership options, catering
to a diverse population of wine enthusiasts. Discover
the membership of palates
in the know....
A Taste of Italy's Rare Varietals
July 14, 1:00–3:00 pm, $50.00
Italy is home to 2,700 producers, 325 appellations,
and 2,000 grape varieties—hundreds
of which are not grown anywhere else in the world.
This impressive offering entails
an extensive catalogue of flavors unequaled by that of
any other country. Experience
Italy’s diversity in a tasting featuring
rare Italian varietals,
extending from the northernmost regions to the tip of
her boot, and rounding
the islands....
To learn more about IWM's Studio Regionale Saturday
Tasting Series, or to
make a reservation over the phone, contact Michann
Thompson at 212.473.2323, x106.
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