April
28, 2007
Eight Producers to Watch
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
Like any industry, the Italian wine world has
its share of
superstars--the Gajas, the Ornellaias, the
Tua Ritas.
Many of these
renowned producers have earned their places
in the
cellar and on the
table, but they only represent the tip of the
iceberg. Scattered
throughout
the country are lots of under-the-radar
winemakers,
and today I'm
introducing a handful of the very best.
These
producers
may be relatively
unknown, for a variety of reasons: they offer
a limited number of
bottles, the press has so far
skipped
them over, they're new to the business, or
they
like their privacy--but they are all
extremely talented and
diverse.
This week's selection includes classic Brunellos
quietly crafted on a
tiny estate by a perfectionist
ex-entrepreneur and
Italy's master
taster; inviting Falanghina made by a curious
team
comprised of an
expert consultant, an American wine merchant,
and an
adult film
actress; and odd but interesting whites and reds
bottled according to
the lunar cycle by a young Friulian dedicated to
observing
the most ancient
methods.
I can't be 100% positive which wines will
becomes
stars and which will
remain merely great drinking wines, but I can be
certain that each
producer has something new and surprising to
express. To miss out on
these varied and remarkable wines is to miss
out on a
highly
pleasurable and intriguing aspect of the
Italian wine
experience.
My best,
Sergio Esposito
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Poggio di Sotto
[POHJ-jo dee SOHT-to]
(Toscana)
IWM has profiled the 2001 Montalcino vintage in several mediums, spotlighting the region's most deserving producers and wines. In this special offering, we are especially proud to announce the debut presentation of Poggio di Sotto's 2001 Brunello. This is an estate that has routinely captured the attention of Sergio's palate and marks a monumental effort for the cellar. In fact, there are five important offerings today from the Montalcino zone, one of which represents the best value in all of Toscana-Poggio di Sotto's 2003 Rosso di Montalcino. While most producers are releasing their 2004 Rossos, this particular '03 rendering offers muscle, fruit, and tannins that not only surpass the character of many of the 2004 Rossos, but the 2001 Brunellos as well. These are two wines that demand attention if you are a Montalcino enthusiast.
Poggio di Sotto’s founder, Piero
Palumucci (a
former shipping executive),
is one of those producers who operates most
often
behind the
label—with consultant
Giulio Gambelli meriting all the cover
action—despite the fact that his
perfectionist streak positions him at the
forefront of
the production process.
He ensured a disciplined approach immediately
upon the estate’s inception
in 1989 by entering into collaboration with
the
University of Milan. An intensive
study regime identified the appropriate
clones for the
site in question, as
well as the planting systems and vine
density most
conducive to the terroir.
These efforts are maximized through rigorous
pruning and an intense process
of selection. Indeed, the production of the
12-hectare
estate is extremely
limited, as Palumucci rejects over half the
fruit
cultivated. Cellar operations
are no less exacting in Poggio di
Sotto’s
gravity flow winery, a classic
context that reflects the integration of
traditional
principles and modern
accoutrements. This merger of philosophies,
in fact,
characterizes the estate’s
overall operations. While the Brunello
delivers a
traditional character achieved
through extended maceration in wooden oak and
aging in Slavonian oak barrels,
several contemporary enhancements ensure the
integrity of the wine’s
condition, including sprinklers that
regulate humidity
in the barrel storage
cellar and a high-caliber bottling machine.
Adamant about color correctness in Brunello,
Palumucci believes that dark Brunellos
are disingenuous—wines that cannot
possibly be pure-varietal expressions. A Poggio
di Sotto Brunello generally exhibits a
medium-red
garnet color upon release
and offers a formidable tannic structure
and high
level of acidity. The estate’s
portfolio includes a Brunello di
Montalcino, Rosso di
Montalcino, Grappa, and
Moscato, although the last of these is
limited to an
exclusive audience of
friends and family.
Poggio di Sotto 2001 Brunello di Montalcino $103.82
Poggio di Sotto 2003 Rosso di Montalcino $43.32
Poggio di Sotto 2002 Rosso di Montalcino $39.96
Sogno Due
[SOH-nyoh doo-eh]
(Campania)
We know that the label might be construed as
representing one of the main selling points,
but it's
what's in the bottle that should be the
primary turn
on....one of the finest modern expressions of
Falanghina.
Who’s behind this rather
unconventional release? Well,
quite honestly, she’s the one on the
label—Savanna Samson—who’s
best known for her work in a certain
segment of the
entertainment industry.
How did she land a role in a scene far
off her
usual set? Her husband, a
New York wine merchant, gave her a taste
for the
grape, which she fleshed
out during trips to France and Italy,
ultimately
expressing her passion in
the release of Sogno Uno—meaning
Dream One—a red blend
that debuted on the market in February of
2006. Lest
you think that this
is the work of an amateur, it is
important to know
that another name is involved
here, namely, Roberto Cipresso, whose
résumé includes Fattoria la
Fiorita
(Montalcino), Monacesca
(Le Marche), and Felline (Puglia),
Achával-
Ferrer
(Argentina), Ronco del Gnemiz
(Friuli), and Diesel Farm di Renzo Rosso
(Veneto).
Upon Samson’s request, Cipresso
developed some working possibilities,
precipitating her discovery of a local
Lazio grape by
the name of Cesanese. This rather esoteric varietal secured the lead
role in Sogno Uno (70%), with the remaining supporting contributions filled by
Sangiovese (20%) and Montepulciano (10%). Produced in a very limited
quantity (slightly
over 400 cases), the
wine enjoyed rather prime positioning,
securing
placement in several of
NYC’s premier dining establishments,
including Restaurant Daniel. Samson
is now looking to follow up her
successful debut
with the release of Sogno
Due—Dream Two—a one
hundred percent Falanghina derived
from 70- to 85-year-old ungrafted
vines. Such vines
are significant, as
grapes that source nutrients from their
own roots
tend to exhibit a more
demonstrative profile than those
dependent on
rootstocks.
In general, Falanghina tends to operate
in the
space between Fiano and
Greco di Tufo. That character, marked
by the piney
aromatics of Fiano and
the fruity quality of Greco, was
frequently
diminished in the past, as
productions confined it to fairly
generic blends. In
recent years, however,
it has enjoyed monovarietal
representation,
precipitated by the resurrection
of the famous Falerno wine (crafted by
Bacchus),
which afforded Falanghina
exclusive representation and the praise
of the
Roman poets. Producers representing
a number of Campania’s delimited
zones
craft single-varietal bottlings
of Falanghina, and while each
interpretation
reflects variations in soil
and climate, many capture the
grape’s
trademark acidity and pear
flavors.
Sogno Due, like Samson’s first
dream, is
crafted by Cipresso in
a very limited quantity (400 cases). It
should prove
fitting for all intended
audiences….
Sogno Due 2005 Falanghina $29.70
Gianni Brunelli
[jAHN-nee broo-nEHl-lee]
(Toscana)
This represents the second debut in our
profile of
producers we've been watching over. Whether
you are
a gourmand
or a wine connisseur this artisanal Brunello
estate will
capture your attention.
The worlds of food and wine are intimately
connected, and it is frequently
the case that one leaves one for the
other, taking
along the lessons
acquired from the kitchen or cellar,
and using
them to enhance the
relationship with the new main flame
or crush, as
the case may be. Sometimes,
though, the gourmand or oenophile
doesn’t want to keep the first
on the side, and is able to occupy
both realms,
engaging in a creative
blend of the two.
Such was the case for Gianni Brunelli, who
turned
to the restaurant business
shortly after his father sold the
family’s
Montalcino estate. The
transition was a propitious one, as his
new
stomping ground, Osteria
Le Logge, became one of
Siena’s most
esteemed dining establishments—a
spot frequented by the famous set, both
the native
and international branches.
Patrons, like those of Gianfranco
Bovio’s
Ristorante Belvedere (click here to read about another
restaurateur/vintner), may choose to set
off their dining experience with a wine
that’s
close to home, as
Brunelli reclaimed his family’s
2.5-hectare
estate, Le Chiuse di
Sotto, in 1988, adding 4.5 hectares
between 1996
and ’97. This expansion facilitated
significant
qualitative enhancement, and Gianni’s
reclamation continues today with the
assistance of
consultant Paolo Vagaggini,
Ph.D., who is connected to several
high-profile
Montalcino estates (including
Il Palazzone, Fuligni, and Poggio
Antico). The aging
regimen for the Brunello
is conducted exclusively in Slavonian
oak, although
the wines tend to project
a rather modern character in their
exposition of
fruit. Expect world-class elegance from
this cellar-
worthy Brunello Riserva - the 2001 represents
Gianni's
best effort to date.
Gianni Brunelli
2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $106.00*
Gianni Brunelli 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva $249.00 (1.5L)*
*Indicates Pre-Arrival
Damijan
[DAH-mee-jahn]
(Friuli)
For the past few years, we've been
following the
movements of this Gravner protégé, and we are
pleased to continue to deliver his striking
portfolio.
Based on Gravian principles, Damijan's wines
deliver
the revered philosophies of an Italian master
at a very
modest cost.
Several of
Italy’s most acclaimed white
wines issue from the delimited
zone of Friuli straddling the
Italian–Slovenian
border. These are not
the clean, crisp wines that
revolutionized the region
in the ’60s and ’70s,
when a contingent of eminent winemakers
instituted a new approach to the
vinification of white wines (such as
stainless steel),
comprised of techniques
designed to elicit pure varietal
character. Rather,
they showcase the individual
personality and independent spirit of
some of
Italy’s greatest viticulturalists
and traditionalists. Many of these are
international in
style, privileging
the medium of oak, but some, like those
of Damijan
Podversic, harken to the
ancient past.
Damijan Podversic began as a
négociant in
his family’s business.
However, upon finding a small abandoned
plot in
the Collio Goriziano, he
purchased it, ignoring the widespread
belief that
such land was not conducive
to viticultural pursuits. He cleared
the land, rebuilt
terraces, and set
to replanting it. Breaking the confines
of tradition
and shunning modern
practices—such as the use of
stainless
steel—Damijan engages
in natural winemaking (use of the
biodynamic
calendar, natural yeast fermentation,
and employing minimal levels of SO2), the
practices of which he learned
from the great Friulian producer Josko
Gravner.
Both of his white wines
are fermented on the skins with natural
yeasts. He
never bottles or releases
a wine unless it has had ample time to
develop,
and the bottling of Kaplja—a
powerful blend of Chardonnay, Tocai
Friulano, and
Malvasia Istriana—transpires
in December, under a waning moon. While
Ribolla
Gialla is virtually unknown
to a modern audience, Gravner authored a
movement dedicated to its reclamation,
endeavoring to comprehend this difficult
varietal’s character and
nuances over a period spanning two
decades.
Damijan’s version of
this ancient Friulian vine is intended
to be
approached as a red wine.
Speaking of red wine, while
Friuli-Venezia Giulia is
understandably known
best for its comprehensive coverage of
white
grapes, Friuli also possesses
a healthy relationship with red varietals
(representing over 40 percent
of the production). Although early
Friulian treatment
of reds reflected
white vinification procedures,
fundamental modern
techniques (longer contact
between skins and juice, and oak aging)
have
facilitated ageworthy, full-bodied
wines. Interestingly, the red natives are
overshadowed by international
favorites Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot; in fact,
their presence in the
region dates back to the 1800s.
Damijan’s
Prelit Rosso is a blend
of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that
is aged in
barrique for a period of 23 months.
Damijan 2003 Kaplja
$41.28
Damijan 2002 Kaplja $43.45
Damijan 2001 Kaplja $40.44
Damijan 2002 Ribolla Gialla $43.45
Damijan 2002 Prelit Rosso $41.28
Castiglion del Bosco
[kahs-tee-LYO-neh dehl BOSH-ko]
(Toscana)
In Italian, Castiglion del Bosco refers to
Castle
in the Woods and here it really
takes on an
Xanadu-like splendor.
This historic estate
—the grounds of which are
graced by a 13th-century
castle—offers
the opportunity to become “immerse[d]
in the
world of a Tuscan winemaker.” This
world, truly an entity unto itself,
comprises a six-
star hotel (offering a full suite of spa
services,
championship golf course, and
culinary academy), 16th- and
17th-century villas,
and, of
particular relevance herein,
a winery.
While it would seem that wine is merely one
element among a vast provision
of luxuries, Castiglion del Bosco actually
possesses a distinguished history
with the grape, possessing a winemaking
tradition
dating back to the 1800s.
Commercial production, however, is a
relatively
recent affair, commencing
only in the mid-20th century, when a
German
company purchased the estate,
expanding production and creating an
international
presence for the wines.
Fifty-five of the majestic estate’s
1,750
hectares are dedicated
to the cultivation of Sangiovese
Grosso.
Appropriately enough
for an estate catering
to the luxury market, Castiglion del
Bosco is
presently run as a joint
venture between fashion mogul Massimo
Ferragamo and JC Partners International,
LLC.
Castiglion
del Bosco 2001 Brunello di Montalcino $49.99
Castiglion del Bosco 2001 Brunello di Montalcino $99.99 (1.5L)
Pianpolvere Soprano
[py-AHN POL-veh-reh soh-PRAH-noh]
(Piemonte)
Following the purchase of old
property from
bankers Levi and Debenedetti,
Paolo Fenocchio founded Pianpolvere Soprano
(deriving the name from the gun-powder
magazines built in the area during
Napoleon’s time). At present, Pianpolvere
Soprano is owned by Rocche dei Manzoni
proprietor
Valentino Migliorini, who
purchased the historic estate in 1999,
following the
death of its previous
owner, Beppe Fenocchio.
Pianpolvere, situated in the Monforte
d’Alba
commune of Bussia province,
is regarded as one of the Langhe’s
“grand crus,” a reputation
most notably established by Renato Ratti.
Ratti, who
developed a map identifying
all of the Barolo and Barbaresco crus,
described
Pianpolvere Soprano as a subzone
displaying “remarkable
characteristics.” Resting at an average
elevation of 350 meters, the site is an
exceptional
one for Nebbiolo, given
both the microclimate concerned and the
soil’s capacity for water retention.
The ’99 Pianpolvere
Soprano—released only last year—
represents
a joint effort between the Fenocchio and
Migliorini
families (only the aging
was conducted exclusively under
Migliorini’s
supervision). The grapes
were cultivated within the context of a
biodynamic
farming regimen and stored
in small baskets in order to facilitate
ideal aeration.
The aging regimen entailed
three years in French barrique
followed by one
year in oak cask and
three years of bottle maturation.
Pianpolvere Soprano
1999 Barolo Bussia Riserva $165.00
Pianpolvere Soprano 1999 Barolo Bussia
Riserva $354.75 (1.5L)
Pianpolvere Soprano 1999 Barolo Bussia Riserva $750.75 (3.0L)
Il Palazzone
[il pah-lahts-SO-neh]
(Toscana)
It's a name you're more than likely familiar
with, as Il
Palazzone is one of Sergio's personal favorites.
Sergio has watched this estate from its
inception,
developing an intimate knowledge of its vintage
performances and terroir expression. Today we
exclusively spotlight one of these masterful
performances. There are not very many '95
Riservas
on the
market, so this presents a rare opportunity
to intensify
or begin your watch of a truly palatial talent.
While the commune of Montalcino was a
relative
unknown only a few short decades
ago, following a significant influx of
well-known
producers, Brunello di Montalcino
bypassed almost famous status, acquiring
preeminent stature in Italy’s
DOCG and, unfortunately, creating an
environment in
which expansion and experimentation
have adversely impacted quality. With over 240
winemakers collectively producing
seven million bottles of Brunello each year,
Brunello’s transmission of
terroir, particularly its evocation of
nuances, has been
undermined. Thus, Sergio
has identified a core of producers whose wines
evidence a genuine articulation
of the nuances relative to their positioning in
Montalcino’s terroir. Il
Palazzone, owned by Time Warner CEO and
Chairman Dick Parsons, continues to be
foremost among these labels.
Ironically, Il Palazzone—“The Big
Palace”— is a small
estate (ten acres under vine) in the heart
of the
Montalcino production zone.
Its positioning at an altitude of 480
meters and the
characteristics defining
the composition of Montalcino’s soil
here
combine to realize an environment
that is particularly propitious for the
production of
structured, ageworthy
wines of marked elegance. In order to craft
ageworthy Brunellos of the best
quality, the estate allows an extra year of
aging
beyond the DOCG standard
and releases each vintage at least six
months after
most other wineries. Parsons,
who acquired the estate a few years back,
hired
famed oenologist Paolo Vagaggini
to craft the wines. In the cellar, Paolo
demonstrates
respect for the fruit
by employing oak barrels of various
dimensions to
create a harmonious balance
between the aromatic fruit of the grapes
and the
secondary bouquet developed
in the aging process. Il Palazzone’s
wines
achieve a remarkable equilibrium
between finesse and concentration; bottle age
realizes substantive maturation. The 1995
Riserva is
no exception, best of all it is showing well now.
Il Palazzone 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $97.35
La Mozza
[lah moh-TSAH]
(Toscana)
I don't think that anyone predicted the
success of this
label, but we're eager to see just where
Mario and Joe
might take us. As we keep a lookout for the next
releases, join a watch that's looking a lot
like a cult in
the works....
The Maremma, situated around the
Tuscan town of
Scansano, is the new outpost
for some of Italy's most renowned wine producers
(Terrabianca, Frescobaldi, and
Sette Ponti) and boasts its own homegrown
successes (Le Pupille and Moris Farms).
Over the last few years, this region of
Toscana has
been leaving behind its image
as a rural, wild outback and quietly
acquiring panache,
courtesy of this influx
of prestigious winemakers. Italian Wine
Merchants'
own Mario Batali and Joseph
Bastianich joined the ranks of these notable
names in
2001, partnering with Joseph’s
mother, chef and restaurateur Lidia
Bastianich, to start
a new label—La
Mozza. This represents the second venture for
Joe
and Lidia, who have been crafting
Friuli’s hallmark whites and intriguing
indigenous reds under the Bastianich
label since 1999.
The Maremma has been enjoying the attention of
many wine professionals over
the last few years, and its “Super-
Meds” (Bastianich’s term,
which is short for Super-Mediterraneans)
offer a
value-oriented, quality alternative
to the region's reigning and eminent Super
wines.
Part of the attraction lies
in the character of the wines, which reflect a
decidedly New World expression.
Bastianich realized the inherent potential
of the
Maremma’s terrain,
which benefits, in particular, from a
microclimate that
is conducive to the
ripening of the grapes and affords a
reliable degree
of consistency from vintage
to vintage. (While the climate is
technically classified
as Mediterranean,
the La Mozza Vineyard benefits from its
proximity to
the Tyrrhenian Sea, which
provides a moderating influence.)
The premier grape of the region is Morellino,
a clone
of Sangiovese that produces
a wine softer than that typically derived from
Sangiovese proper. Morellino
is the inspiring varietal figure behind the
pair of
wines representing La Mozza—Aragone
and Morellino di Scansano I Perazzi. The
former, a
multivarietal blend comprised
of Morellino, Alicante, Syrah, and
Carignan, debuted
on the market last Fall,
leaving behind newcomer status almost
immediately
to play a recurring role
on IWM event wine lists. This Super-Med,
conceived
as a departure from the
revered Super-Tuscan model, exhibits greater
concentration than the I Perazzi,
thereby implying significant aging
potential, yet it
offers current drinking
pleasure as well. The I Perazzi continues to
represent one of the most popular
by-the-case purchases at IWM. In this
value-oriented
wine, winemaker Maurizio
Castelli sought to craft an expression that
captures
the flavors characteristic
of Morellino. Castelli enhanced its profile
through ten
months’ aging
in French barriques, thereby
rendering it
distinct from most Morellinos,
which receive limited aging or none at all.
La Mozza 2004 Aragone $36.30
La Mozza 2005 Morellino di Scansano I Perazzi $16.50
La Mozza 2005 Morellino di Scansano I Perazzi $33.00 (1.5L)
La Mozza 2005 Morellino di Scansano I Perazzi $75.90 (3.0L)
La Mozza 2004 Morellino di Scansano I
Perazzi $42.90 (1.5L)
Rising Wine Stars Sampler
Each producer featured here has a tale to
tell—a story that doesn’t
necessarily begin with wine. In many cases,
the plot is
an unconventional one,
played out by unexpected characters. Some have
been best sellers since hitting
the wine racks, getting on the wine lists of
some of the
best restaurants and
effortlessly spinning a following ….
Then there are those who have continued where
others left off, rewriting an
end or reviving a past, while others have
broken with
the standard script,
preferring to work off the page in an
unwritten space.
We don’t know
where they’re going right
now—whether or not they’ll emerge
as classics with time, but right now,
they’re all
in the midst of a seemingly
eternal season of The Producers
Rising….
Rising Wine Stars Six-Pack Includes:
Poggio di Sotto 2003 Rosso di Montalcino
Sogno Due 2005 Falanghina
Damijan 2001 Kaplja
Damijan 2002 Prelit Rosso
Castiglion del Bosco 2001 Brunello di
Montalcino
La Mozza 2004 Aragone
Rising Wine Stars Six-Pack...$241.03*
*Free Delivery in Manhattan
Mother's Day Gift Basket
We all know that Prosecco is a
quintessential opener
to both the casual and
the celebratory, but not much attention is
paid to its
presentation. It’s
simply always there—a convenient
sparkler
that gracefully complements
all occasions and all of the many pairings
that come
its way. It deserves to
be shown to best effect, and Spiegelau’s
Prosecco Glasses have been designed
to capture the sparkle that simply gets
lost in all of
those unshapely vessels.
This special basket will capture that sparkle
for
Mother’s Day and perfectly
set off all shining moments to come….
Mother’s Day Celebration Basket
Includes:
Spiegelau Vino Grande Prosecco Glasses (6)
Col Vetoraz NV Prosecco (1.5L)
Large Woven Wood Gift Basket
Mother's Day Celebration Basket...$91.56
New Saturday Seminar: Taste of Toscana
A Taste of Toscana
May 5, 1:00–3:00 p.m., $50.00
Without question Italy’s most famous wine
zone, Toscana presents tradition
and modernity in an ongoing, dynamic dialogue
informed by a dramatic past and
a present punctuated by its storied career.
Toscana’s prolific catalogue
ranges from the everyday classics to the
highly sought-
after and revered Super-Tuscans,
which have inspired likenesses throughout the
region’s expanse. Immerse
your palate in the wonder of it all as we
taste through a
compilation of the
zone’s greatest hits.
The tasting includes:
Education provided by an IWM
sommelier
Tasting Booklet featuring proprietary
producer
notes, as well as a regional recipe
Spiegelau tasting glass to keep following
the
tasting
Sampling of regional foods prepared by
IWM chefs
paired with each wine tasted
To make a reservation via phone:
Contact Michann Thompson at 212.473.2323, x106,
to
reserve your space, or to learn more about
IWM's new
Studio Regionale Saturday Tasting Series.
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