April 22, 2007
An Education in Classic Barolo and Barbaresco
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
Barolo and Barbaresco are perhaps two of the
best-
known Italian wines,
recognized around the world by collectors,
enthusiasts, and most
people with some minor knowledge of pop
culture. Piemonte has
churned out some rock star producers over the
years, major players who
dominate the industry and are considered
personalities in their own
right. Indeed, the region—that lush
patchwork of
green and gold hills,
blanketed with vines, without an inch to spare—has become more than
just the farm country it was 50 years ago.
Now, it's a
destination, and
even in the dead of winter you'll find a
half-dozen tour
buses parked
on the skinny cobblestone streets.
Of course, this kind of popularity has
revived a region
once bogged
down by economic hardship, and it's allowed many
struggling contadini to not only survive, but to thrive. But it's
also created a
new culture
and a new market, hungry for expansion, success,
cash—just the kind of
market that makes modern, globalized wines in
sparkling new factories.
To me, the beauty of Barolo and Barbaresco
lies in their
strong sense
of history. As always, I tend to prefer the
old-timers,
and not just
because I'm a little sentimental. In Barolo,
more than
any other
region, the older winemakers are true links
operating in a chain
of generations,
connecting all the way back to the birth of
the wine.
They are the sons
and daughters of the people that
were—during
recession after
recession, before the influx of Swiss and German
wine lovers, before
scores and journals and newsletters and
columns—dedicated to their
grapes and their cellars. They were willing
to go broke
just to keep
making a wine they considered the best in the
world,
the wine their
fathers made. These people are at least
partially
responsible for the
fact that these wines have endured.
Today, I'm offering selections of Barolo and
Barbaresco made by those
dedicated maestros—Conterno, Giacosa,
and Mascarello. Sure, I've included some newcomers—Bovio, A & GN Fantino,
and Famiglia Anselma—but they make
their wine in the same spirit, with the same
respect for
tradition and
typicity. One thing is for sure: Encapsulated
inside
each of the featured bottles is pure Piemonte: Its earth, air,
fruit, and incomparable past.
My best,
Sergio Esposito
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Classic Barolo Primer
Piemonte’s wine culture is often
represented
via the tradition vs. modern
paradigm; however, this favored philosophical
construct fails to acknowledge
a mindset that isn’t caught up in an
approach to viticulture and
vinification, but rather, dedicated to an
ideal.
The twelve producers
featured herein are regarded as
“classic” first and foremost, as
their defining objective is to produce
wines that
provide precise and articulate
renderings of terroir—expressions that
implicitly reject the states of
immediacy and approachability that are
hallmarks of
a modern orientation. Instead,
the wines privilege pure and unadulterated
transmissions of place in which
the revelation of fruit serves the
wine’s
structure, enabling the elements
of tannin, acidity, and structure to
realize a wholly
integrated state. These
producers do not reject innovation and
technology;
rather, they apply it in
a manner that does not compromise or alter the
land’s integrity. All
of the wines featured implicitly guarantee
that what is
in the glass carries
the signature of its origins.
When considering those who are dedicated to
classic
interpretations—transparent
reflections of distinct terroirs—an
understanding of what is being expressed
is requisite. An essential beginning,
therefore,
involves acquiring a working
knowledge of the characteristics that
define the main
communes of Barolo and
Barbaresco. In the former case, five are of
the
greatest significance—La
Morra, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba,
Castiglione
Falletto, and Monforte
d’Alba, while in the latter, three are
primary—Barbaresco, Neive,
and Treiso.
Click to Download a Regional Map of Barolo
Bartolo Mascarello
As you have learned, there is much
to discover within each of the five primary
communes
of Barolo as well as the zone of Barolo and
each
vineyard situated in the Langhe
hills. Scavino’s ‘Rocche
dell’’Annunziata,’ Aldo
Conterno's ‘Cicala,’ and
Giacosa’s ‘Le Rocche del
Falletto’ represent some of the
greatest expressions of Nebbiolo.
Single-vineyard
bottlings (or cru), introduced by
the esteemed Renato Ratti, Beppe Colla,
and the
Ceretto brothers over 30
years ago, have had a profound impact on the
Barolo landscape. However, the
archetype of Barolo is not a
single-vineyard wine
labeled Brunate, Cannubi, or Rocche
dell'Annunziata. Rather, this honor
belongs to a
cuvée from
Bartolo Mascarello—
the icon of tradition and master of classic
Barolo.
Little has changed at the Mascarello estate
since
1918, when Giulio Mascarello
distinguished himself by refusing to sell
his fruit to a
négociant and
moving away from the use of demijohns (the
standard for the time). The family
has always followed the tradition of
crafting a single-
estate Barolo
sourced from the best fruit of several
different
vineyards, a protocol that
ensures wines of balance and
harmony. The grapes are sourced from five
hectares
planted in the historic
and prestigious Barolo vineyards of
Cannubi, Rue,
San Lorenzo, and Rocche,
all of which are situated in the La Morra
commune.
Wines deriving from this zone tend to be the
most
feminine and perfumed of Piemonte's Barolos. Of
the 1,200 cases that
are produced, only a mere handful make it
to the
States.
Bartolo Mascarello Barolo (from communes of La Morra & Barolo)
Bartolo Mascarello 1964 Barolo $989.00 (1.5L)
Bartolo Mascarello 1986 Barolo $690.00 (1.5L)
Bartolo Mascarello 1988 Barolo $546.77 (1.5L)
Bartolo Mascarello 1989 Barolo $725.00 (1.5L)
Bartolo Mascarello 1990 Barolo $725.00 (1.5L)
Bartolo Mascarello 1995 Barolo $99.00
Bartolo Mascarello 1997 Barolo $99.00
Bartolo Mascarello 1998 Barolo $75.75
Bartolo Mascarello 1999 Barolo $104.50
Bartolo Mascarello 2000 Barolo $89.00
Bartolo Mascarello 2000 Barolo $198.00 (1.5L)
Bartolo Mascarello 2001 Barolo $90.06
Borgogno
Bartolomeo Borgogno founded this estate in
1761,
but it is a historic document
dated 1848 that attests to its first wine
sales to the
Royal Army of Racconigi.
Like Mascarello, production has centered on
cuvée bottlings
rather than cru, despite the
estate’s
possession of prestigious
vineyard land in Cannubi, Cannubi Boschis,
Brunate, Rue, and Liste. Blended
wines constitute the tradition here,
upholding the
view that integration
of the unique nuances of each site
fashion a more
harmonious and complete
wine. Vinification typically entails long
maceration
and extended aging in
large casks. All of these components
contribute to
the estate's reputation
for wines of longevity. In fact,
widespread critical
opinion holds that Borgogno’s
wines take 30 years to come around—a
testament to impeccable craft.
A hallmark of this traditional estate is
its rare stock
of vintage Barolo,
a practice that predates WWII. Each
bottling below
represents a historic vintage from Piemonte,
from the
highly structured 1961 vintage to the ripe
and opulent
character of 1990.
Borgogno Barolo Riserva (from commune of Barolo)
Borgogno 1961 Barolo
Riserva $160.96
Borgogno 1974 Barolo Riserva $129.96
Borgogno 1982 Barolo Riserva $169.96
Borgogno 1985 Barolo Riserva $169.96
Borgogno 1988 Barolo Riserva $139.96
Borgogno 1989 Barolo Riserva $139.96
Borgogno 1990 Barolo Riserva $129.96
Aldo Conterno
While Mascarello’s Barolo is the
reference
point for a textbook cuvée
Barolo, many believe that Aldo
Conterno’s
Granbussia is, on a qualitative
level, the best Barolo Piemonte has to
offer—with his late brother's
Monfortino presenting the greatest
challenge
to this
eminent positioning. While
the brothers began their careers with their
father,
Giacomo, a divisive split
in view over the style of their wines
precipitated
Aldo’s departure in
1969. Aldo subsequently founded the
Favot
cellar, while Giovanni, an
unwavering traditionalist, continued
production at
their father’s cellar.
After leaving the Giacomo Conterno estate, it
wasn’t long before Aldo
established his own identity, earning the
“King
of Barolo” title.
His is a rare case, as he is beloved by
both the old
guard and emerging producers—a
recognition
that honors the rare and elusive medium he
achieves between traditional and
modern orientations, applying technology in a
manner that supports the retention
of Nebbiolo’s character.
The Granbussia is the most traditional of Aldo
Conterno's offerings, sourced across multiple
vineyards.
The 1970 debut bottling derived from grapes in
the Colonnello and Cicala
vineyards in the commune of Monforte d'Alba;
Conterno altered the composition
significantly with the 1985 vintage,
introducing the
Romirasco Vineyard as
the primary, defining source (70 percent) and
reducing the contribution of
the other two vineyards (15 percent each).
While this
remains the general blending
formula, the nuances of a given vintage are
recognized and articulated through
appropriate alterations.
After the individual sources are fermented
and aged
for a period of 32 to 36
months in Slavonian oak, the components
are assembled and aged
for an additional year and a half or two. The
maturation period (in both cask
and bottle) comprises six years in total;
thus, it is
unique among the wines
of its designation, as it is one of the
longest aged
Barolos (released one year after its
fellow Barolos of the
vintage).
Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia (from commune of Monforte d'Alba)
Aldo Conterno
1974 Barolo Granbussia $340.00
Aldo Conterno 1999 Barolo Granbussia $135.00
Aldo Conterno 2000 Barolo Granbussia $189.00*
Aldo Conterno 1971 Barolo Granbussia Speciale
$2,495.00 (3.78L)
*Indicates Pre-Arrival
A & GN Fantino
Bartolo Mascarello’s daughter, Maria-
Teresa, has preserved her
father’s conception of Barolo,
crafting a wine
that references itself
alone even as it operates as a paradigm. For
Alessandro Fantino, however,
this rendering wasn’t an abstract
ideal, as
he learned its methodology
firsthand during the course of his
ten-year tenure as
winemaker for Bartolo. Thereafter, he
established an
estate
with his brother, Gian,
which is situated in the historic centre
of Monforte
d’Alba. Their
holdings comprise 10 hectares of the
historic Vigna
dei Dardi, a site that
is noted for its articulation of the
character and
nuances informing specific
vintages. Like Mascarello, the Fantino
brothers are
dedicated to the traditions
of the Langhe, producing classic
interpretations of
Barolo. However, they
depart from Mascarello’s absolute
philosophy in their expression of
one site’s persona and use of
barriquefor their Barolo Dardi
bottling. Tradition is very much in
effect, however, in
their protocol’s
lengthy maceration period of 20 days and the
maturation of the Riserva, which
is aged in larger barrels.
A & GN Fantino Barolo (from commune of Monforte d'Alba)
A & GN
Fantino 1995 Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi' $66.00
A & GN Fantino 1996 Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi'
$71.50
A & GN Fantino 1997 Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi'
$66.70
A & GN Fantino 1997 Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi'
$138.88 (1.5L)
A & GN Fantino 1998 Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi'
$58.45
A & GN Fantino 1999 Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi'
$66.00
A & GN Fantino 2000 Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi'
$62.57
A & GN Fantino 1998 Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi'
Riserva $75.63
A & GN Fantino 1999 Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi' Riserva $75.63
Oddero
As mentioned previously, cru
bottlings do not,
in and of themselves,
signify a modernist approach to Barolo, a
fact best
illustrated, perhaps, through
a producer such as Oddero. Situated in the
La Morra
commune, the Oddero family
commenced wine production at the end of the
19th
century. Of particular interest
is the fact that the family was most likely
the first to
utilize Nebbiolo in
the production of their own
wine—undertaken
by brothers Lorenzo and Luigi
in 1878. Given this prestigious beginning,
their
multisource Barolo represents
one of the zone’s most historically
significant
bottlings.
The general Barolo production protocol is
decidedly
traditional, entailing
hand-harvesting of grapes, followed by
two stages
of grape assessment. Maceration
extends over a period of 15 days, and the
aging regimen is conducted
in oak casks for three to four years,
followed by one
year of
bottle age prior
to release. Barbaresco production is
similar, though
the requisite duration
of oak aging is shorter (two to three
years). The
remaining
percentage of the estate’s
Barolo production (which constitutes 65%)
comprises four cru bottlings— Vigna
Rionda, Mondoca di Bussia Soprana, Rocche
dei
Rivera di Castiglione, and Rocche di
Castiglione—each of which is crafted
exclusively in vintages
of the highest caliber and displays
distinct nuances
(ex. Vigna Rionda possesses
a taut structure and enjoys an extensive
aging
period while Rocche
dei Rivera di Castiglione delivers a wine
of striking
elegance; both
of these bottlings are noted for
realizing extensive
maturation). The estate
reflects an acknowledgment of the modern
school
in two bottlings representing
the international set—the Langhe
Chardonnay Collaretto and the Langhe
Rosso Furesté, a pure varietal
Cabernet that
debuted in 1991.
Oddero Barolo (from commune of La Morra)
Oddero 1998 Barolo $52.00
Oddero 2000 Barolo $36.50
Oddero 1998 Barolo 'Rocche dei Rivera' $64.00
Oddero 1985 Barbaresco $169.00
Oddero 2001 Barbaresco $29.95
Massolino
Founded by Giovanni Massolino in 1896, Vigna
Rionda–Massolino released
its first Barolo in 1911. Today, the
portfolio comprises
ten bottlings, including
a trio of single-vineyard Barolos. Current
production
offers a rare amalgam
of multigenerational influences, led by
Giuseppe
Massolino, one of the founders
of the Consorzio Barolo e
Barbaresco. While
his son, Roberto, manages
vineyard and cellar operations, his
grandson, Franco,
crafts the wines, adhering
to traditional practices while
incorporating modern
techniques that accord
with the estate’s viticultural
objectives and
allow for the production
of structured Barolos that possess
long-term aging
potential. Like Oddero,
therefore, Massolino preserves a fundamentally
traditional mindset.
The Massolino Barolo is a veteran performer
sourced
from all vineyards
in the Massolino canon, with vines
ranging in age
from 4 to 35 years of
age. The blending regimen utilized enables
consistency to be realized across
vintages— even those of inferior
quality. The
Vigna Margheria, first
produced in 1985, is a single-vineyard
wine
deriving from traditional viticultural
practices, which serve to elicit the
inherent
characteristics of the site.
Of particular note among these natural
influences
is Margheria's trademark
woodland essence, which receives notable
expression in Massolino's bottling,
among classic Barolo aromas of roses,
licorice,
tar, and minerals. Though
well-structured and suited to aging for
a decade or
more, it may also be
consumed when young. The altitude,
microclimate,
and soil composition of
Vigna Rionda enable the production of
distinct
wines that are not approximated
by any other vinous expression. Though
not an
easily comprehended wine,
the Vigna Rionda rewards the discerning
and well-
educated palate.
Massolino Barolo (from commune of Serralunga d'Alba)
Massolino 1999
Barolo $34.00
Massolino 2001 Barolo $36.05 (.375L)
Massolino 2001 Barolo $49.00
Massolino 2000 Barolo 'Vigna Margheria'
$82.83
Massolino 2001 Barolo 'Vigna Margheria'
$74.25
Massolino 1998 Barolo 'Vigna Rionda' Riserva $100.98
Famiglia Anselma
While one of the youngest producers included
herein, Anselma
is a traditional Barolo house that has
pursued
innovation with restraint.
The 1993 vintage marked the debut of
Anselma,
though founders Renato and
Giovanna Anselma began acquiring
vineyard land
in the 1970s. At present,
Famiglia Anselma possesses one of the
largest
privately owned holdings
in the Barolo zone, comprising land in
the Barolo,
Monforte d’Alba,
and Serralunga d’Alba communes.
Their efforts are dedicated
wholly to two bottlings, a standard Barolo and a
Riserva— Adasi— which
derives from two vineyards, Le Coste and
Ravera, and
is vinified only in vintages
whose conditions warrant and permit
expression via a
reserve bottling. The regular
bottling may be sourced from as many as 20
sites in
the DOCG, making it a consummate
representative of a Barolo crafted through
the blending
regimen. The use of barrel
aging (in addition to cask maturation) is
indicative of
the family’s acknowledgment
and admission of modern viticulture’s
relevance. It also reflects the Anselma
family’s intimate knowledge of each
vineyard,
particularly as viticultural
decisions account for the influence and
impact of
vintage on site expression.
Anselma Barolo (from communes of Barolo, Monforte d'Alba, & Serralunga d'Alba)
Famiglia Anselma 1998
Barolo $82.87
Famiglia Anselma 2000 Barolo $56.43
Famiglia Anselma 2001 Barolo $50.49
Famiglia Anselma 2001 Barolo $106.59 (1.5L)
Famiglia Anselma 1995 Barolo Adasi $76.73
Famiglia Anselma 1995 Barolo Adasi $156.75 (1.5L)
Famiglia Anselma 1996 Barolo Adasi $85.93
Famiglia Anselma 1996 Barolo Adasi $175.56 (1.5L)
G. B. Burlotto
This historic estate, located in the commune of
Verduno in the Barolo
DOCG, was established by Giovan Battista
Burlotto, il Commendatore, in
the mid-18th century, during which time it earned
the distinguished
titles of “Supplier to the Savoy Royal
Household” and “The
Only Supplier to the Duke of Abruzzi’s
Artic Expedition to the
North Pole.” Today, like other Barolo
houses, much of its renown
derives from its association with some of
Piemonte’s most eminent
sites.
The estate is comprised of 30 acres, 24 of which
are situated in the
commune of Verduno, the site of the famous
Monvigliero cru, which
is noted for its wholly southfacing position and
soil of white marl.
Burlotto’s Monvigliero bottling is the
estate’s signature
wine; in fact, Burlotto sourced his Nebbiolo
almost exclusively from
this cru. Of the remaining six acres, 3 ½ are
located in Barolo’s
famed Cannubi Vineyard (with the other 2
½ belonging to the Roddi
commune). The Cannubi Vineyard enjoyed
prestige prior to the production
of Barolo and its positioning, in the manner of a
Burgundy grand cru,
has never been diminished. In fact, it is widely
regarded as Barolo’s
premier vineyard, yielding fruit that realizes
outstanding qualitative
consistency. Of particular interest is the fact that
the Langhe’s
oldest bottling is labeled ‘Cannubi
1752.’
Burlotto bequeathed the estate to his son,
Francesco, who assumed control
in 1927 following his father’s death. The
estate remains family-owned
and is currently under the direction of
Burlotto’s great-niece,
Mariana Burlotto, and her husband, Giuseppe
Alessandria. While their
son, Fabio, has introduced modern techniques,
they have served to enhance
the qualitative achievement of this estate’s
traditionally oriented
wines.
G. B. Burlotto Barolo (from communes of Barolo & Verduno)
G. B. Burlotto 1996
Barolo 'Cannubi' $44.95
G. B. Burlotto 1995 Barolo 'Monvigliero' $44.95
G. B. Burlotto 1996 Barolo 'Monvigliero' $44.95
G. B. Burlotto 1995 Barolo 'Neirane' $44.95
G. B. Burlotto 1996 Barolo 'Neirane' $44.95
Giuseppe Mascarello
Another house whose identity is intimately
connected to a single vineyard
is the Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio
estate—the motto of which—“Only
the memory of the past can open the way to the
future”—provides
a succinct articulation of its defining
philosophy.
Giuseppe Mascarello established his estate in
Monforte d’Alba
in 1881. It was Giuseppe’s son, Maurizio,
however, who began to
establish the family’s positioning among
the defining producers
of Barolo with the purchase of land in the nearby
commune of Castiglione
Falletto in 1904. This acquisition commenced the
Mascarellos’ eminent
ties with the past, bringing them ownership of a
parcel of the Monprivato
Vineyard. In 1921, Maurizio planted a portion of
Monprivato to a special
clone of the Nebbiolo
grape—Michét— which is
recognized
as a particularly refined strain of the grape. His
sons, Giuseppe and
Natale, succeeded their father upon his passing
in 1923, yet disparate
views required a division of the holdings. During
this phase, Giuseppe
invested in the development and qualitative
integrity of production;
he also replanted the Michét clone
originally introduced by his
father. His son, Mauro, assumed direction in
1967, immediately instituting
a period of experimentation. Yet, his respect for
both traditional and
modern vinification techniques earned him the
popular title of “enlightened
traditionalist.” In 1970, he began to bottle
single crus, commencing
with the famed Monprivato (which the family
achieved sole ownership of
in 1990) and retained the traditional aging
regimen for all vineyard
designates (approximately three and a half years
in old Slavonian oak
casks and bottling without fining or filtration).
Mascarello Barolos
begin to mature between six and ten years of
bottle age, and may continue
to evolve over a 25- to 40-year span. The offerings
below are classic and structured wines from the 1996
vintage.
Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo (from commune of Castiglione Falletto)
Giuseppe
Mascarello 1996 Barolo 'Bricco' $102.00
Giuseppe Mascarello 1996 Barolo 'Monprivato'
$139.60
Giuseppe Mascarello 1996 Barolo 'Monprivato' $299.20 (1.5L)
Bovio
As one of the younger estates featured in our
guide, the name Gianfranco
Bovio may be associated more directly with
Ristorante Belvedere—one
of Piemonte’s oldest and most renowned
restaurants—than the
wines Gianfranco began to craft in 1977. Though
his original holdings
comprised merely three hectares of Nebbiolo and
Dolcetto, Bovio purchased
seven additional hectares—situated within
the crus of Arborina,
Gattera, and Rocchettevino—and enlisted
the expertise of Walter
Porasso, who continues to oversee all stages of
production, assisted
by consultants Beppe Caviola and Federico
Curtaz.
The success of Ristorante
Belvedere finds its equal in Bovio’s
viticultural achievement.
Bovio delivers an exemplary rendering of classic
La Morra Barolo, characterized
by a lean style that captures La Morra’s
terroir, and, in some
cases, projects a likeness to Barbaresco. More
dignified and temperate
than Bovio’s other Barolos, the Arborina
typically releases dark red fruit tinged with anise
and hints of tar.
As with all of Bovio’s bottlings, this offers a
quintessential
expression of its source yet differs from the others
as it represents Bovio's sole use of new
barrique, rendering it a modern interpretation.
Bovio’s
Gattera cru exhibits greater austerity and
power than Bovio’s
other Barolo crus, Arborina and Rocchettevino,
and also possesses longer
term aging potential. Credited with integrating the
principal dimensions
of the other two Barolo crus, Rocchettevino is
generally the most approachable
of the three, providing a consummate introduction
to the style of the
Bovio house. It is also regarded as
Bovio’s most comprehensive
articulation of La Morra’s beneficent
characteristics.
Bovio Barolo (from commune of La Morra)
Bovio 1998 Barolo 'Gattera' $59.35
Bovio 1998 Barolo 'Gattera' $124.88 (1.5L)
Bovio 2001 Barolo 'Gattera' $57.75
Bovio 1997 Barolo 'Rocchettevino' $68.71
Bovio 1997 Barolo 'Rocchettevino' $144.38 (1.5L)
Bovio 1996 Barolo 'Arborina' $59.00
Bovio 1996 Barolo 'Arborina' $124.88 (1.5L)
Bovio 1998 Barolo 'Arborina' $59.35
Bovio 1998 Barolo 'Arborina' $124.88 (1.5L)
Bovio 1999 Barolo 'Arborina' $57.75
Bovio 1999 Barolo 'Arborina' $122.38 (1.5L)
Bovio 2001 Barolo 'Arborina' $57.75
Marchesi di Grésy
The tiny Barbaresco DOCG resides northeast
of
Alba and Barolo and produces
only half the amount of wine that her slightly
more eminent relation
does. Barbaresco tends to be slightly finer, less
tannic, and more
elegant than Barolo, and typically offers greater
approachability.
These points of difference owe, in part, to the
Barbaresco zone’s
cooler climate and shorter ripening period. It
also has a lower alcohol
level requirement and less stringent aging
requirements. Cru bottlings
are also significant in the context of
Barbaresco. While Gaja’s
Sorì Tildin, Sorì San Lorenzo,
and Costa Russi represented
benchmark status prior to Gaja’s
decision to add Barbera to
each of the wines (thereby forsaking the
Barbaresco DOCG), other
sites have proven themselves to be of
equivalent stature.
Alberto di Grésy was not content with
merely selling the grapes
that he and his family grew, as was the tradition
in the Langhe around
the 1960s and ’70s. In 1973 he began to
vinify his own wine,
incorporating relevant technology while honoring
the traditions practiced
by his family. Recognition for his wines was
immediate, as he was able
to create products that were truly representative
of the land from
which they came.
Present holdings comprise three
estates—Martinenga, Monte Aribaldo,
and La Serra. In the present context, we are
concerned with the first
of these, which is dedicated almost exclusively
to the production of
Nebbiolo grapes (with smaller plantings of
Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon)
used for the crafting of Barbaresco. The
estate’s eponymous vineyard
weds unobstructed southern exposure with a
soil of blue marl, elements
that support the development of high-quality
grapes and realize the
Grésy portfolio’s most significant
bottling, the Martinenga
Barbaresco. The site is also conveyed through
bottlings representing
special selections vinified exclusively in vintages
of high quality—Camp
Gros and Gaiun, the latter of which incorporates
a modern accent through barrique aging.
Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco (from commune of Barbaresco)
Marchesi Di Grésy 1996 Barbaresco Gaiun $80.60^
Marchesi Di Grésy 1990 Barbaresco Martinenga $198.00^
^Indicates Limited Quantity
Bruno Giacosa
We conclude our study with Bruno
Giacosa—a Piemonte legend
whose winemaking philosophy is informed by a
profound respect for
traditional viticulture and vinification. Believing
in a noninterventionist
approach, typified by the simplicity of the past,
Giacosa ranks among
the most respected producers of
Piemonte’s traditional guard,
including Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo
Conterno, and Aldo Conterno,
and is considered the foremost practitioner in
the realm of Barbaresco.
Giacosa did not hold ownership of any vineyards
prior to his purchase
of the Falletto Vineyard in 1982. Rather, he
chose to purchase grapes
from some of the area’s best sites,
establishing a reputation
for astute selection that continues to be a
mainstay of his production.
Giacosa firmly believes in the value of single-
vineyard bottlings
and honors this conviction by bottling
crus only
in the better vintages;
wines that fail to realize established standards
are either declassified
and sold as Nebbiolo or remain unbottled.
First produced in 1960, Giacosa’s
Barbaresco is sourced from
various vineyards throughout Barbaresco and
is aged for a period
of 24 months in large French oak barrels,
followed by several months
of bottle maturation prior to its release. The
Barbaresco Falletto is sourced exclusively from
Giacosa's estate, representing a rare collectible
bottling of the highest stature.
Giacosa Barbaresco (from communes of Barbaresco & Neive)
Bruno Giacosa 1998
Barbaresco $75.90
Bruno Giacosa 1999 Barbaresco $79.99
Bruno Giacosa 1999 Barbaresco Falletto $84.99
Classics Compilation
If one were to design a course dedicated to the study
of classic Barolo and
Barbaresco, this treatment—with a few
additions—would constitute
an ideal syllabus. Our producer-focused approach
provides for instruction that’s
grounded in the philosophy of the
creators—an essential basis that places
the wines in their original context. Though each is
distinct, all are related,
with some serving as inspiration and others, as
profound interpretation. All
are inextricably tied to their producers and, of course,
the most precise and
illuminating conduits of terroir. Drinking these within
our framework will
immerse you in the classics, endowing you with an
education in the masters that takes you through
historic vintages and provides a collective expression
of the commune variations.
Give your palate profound tasting credentials
and endow your mind with “more
things than are dreamt of” in your current vino
philosophy….
Barolo and Barbaresco Classics Six-Pack
Includes:
Bartolo Mascarello 1995 Barolo (Barolo, La Morra)
Borgogno 1985 Barolo Riserva (Barolo)
Massolino 1998 Barolo 'Vigna Rionda' Riserva
(Serralunga d'Alba)
Giuseppe Mascarello 1996 Barolo 'Bricco'
(Castiglione Falletto)
Bovio 1997 Barolo 'Rocchettevino' (La Morra)
Bruno Giacosa 1999 Barbaresco Falletto
(Barbaresco, Neive)
Barolo and Barbaresco Classics Six-Pack...$625.64*
*Free Delivery in Manhattan
Saturday: Italy Takes on the World
Italy Takes on the World
April 28, 1:00-3:00 pm, $50.00
While Italy is an indigenous wonderland, its terroir has
long shown itself hospitable to those belonging to the
international scene. The success achieved by the
Super-Tuscans (which went outside DOC regulations
by blending Sangiovese with grapes such as
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) validated their
qualitative merit. Toscana isn't the only region that
possesses an affinity with the international crew,
however. In fact, many other zones offer their
own "Super" wines. Moreover, some appellations
have a longstanding history with the nonindigenous
grapes that has authored several eminent blends.
Experience the Italian translations of grapes that have
been familiar parts of your vino vocab, and taste them
in a whole new way.
The tasting includes:
Education provided by an IWM
sommelier
Tasting Booklet featuring proprietary
producer
notes, as well as a regional recipe
Spiegelau tasting glass to keep following
the
tasting
Sampling of regional foods prepared by
IWM chefs
paired with each wine tasted
To make a reservation via phone:
Contact Michann Thompson at 212.473.2323, x106,
to
reserve your space, or to learn more about
IWM's new
Studio Regionale Saturday Tasting Series.
Click to Reserve Your Space for Italy Takes on the World |
