March
24, 2007
The
Next Great Ornellaia and Old Favorites From Grattamacco
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
A few weeks ago, I wrote about a pair of
cousins--
Nicolò della
Rocchetta and Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga--who spent years
working at Mario Incisa
della Rocchetta's Tenuta San Guido, each
hoping to
eventually inherit
the winery that invented Sassicaia. When the
younger
della Rocchetta
nabbed the spot as heir, Gonzaga returned to San
Leonardo, his family
estate. There, he made wine that was every
bit as
interesting as his
cousin's, but he remained then, as now,
relatively
unknown. After the
letter came out, clients swooped up San Leonardo
wine, fell in love,
and asked me for more under-the-radar
producers.
When I decided to unveil Tenuta dell'Ornellaia's
newest releases today,
I thought of an obscure nearby winery that makes
fantastic wines:
Grattamacco. Ornellaia is a press
darling and an
international superstar, currently owned by the
Frescobaldi family.
Ornellaia is one of the most well-known Super-Tuscans, and the kind of
wine that has fanatics counting the days
until a new
vintage comes on
the market. It's internationally recognized
and beloved--
both because
it has all the characteristics of worldwide
wines
(density, richness,
soft tannins) and because it's essentially a
blue chip
stock in the
cellar.
But while you're going crazy for the newest
Ornellaias,
you might also
consider picking up some bottles from
Grattamacco,
another estate in
the hills of Bolgheri. Grattamacco isn't
aggressively
marketed or
globally distributed, and most people have never
heard of its wines.
But in fact, they are some of the finest out
of Tuscana.
The grapes for
Grattamacco wines are grown at the highest
altitude
in this coastal
region, which, combined with production
methods that
stress finesse
over power, makes for highly elegant, aromatic
wines.
Today I'm offering two sure bets. Ornellaia will
impress any
connoisseur, please any collector, and
is also,
besides all that,
a great drink. Grattamacco, which we have in
many
consistently superb
vintages, may not be so immediately
identifiable, but
it makes an
intriguing addition to any cantina or table,
and, maybe
even better,
costs about half the price of
Ornellaia.
My best,
Sergio Esposito
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Ornellaia: Signature Blend
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia's Flagship
Since its debut in 1985, this formidable
Bordeaux
blend has demonstrated
invariable excellence. Ken Lenzi,
Tenuta dell'
Ornellaia’s assistant winemaker, regards
Ornellaia as
delivering a more complex
expression than that of the Masseto,
given the
distinct contribution
made by each of its component grapes,
and
positions them in two different
schools of thought. While Masseto
gives the
impression of proceeding
in one direction, Ornellaia seems to
go in several
at once, nevertheless
maintaining a smooth and elegant
persona.
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 2004 Ornellaia
The 2004 vintage proved to be
particularly
conducive to the growth of
Cabernet Sauvignon. This varietal
constitutes 60%
of the blend in ’04 (with the rest
breaking down
as follows: 25% Merlot, 12%
Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot),
providing an
elegant structure that
is intensified by the Petit Verdot and
balanced by the
Merlot’s velvety
quality. It is emerging as one of the
estate’s
signature efforts with
this label, one in which the elements all
participate
in a harmonious give-and-take.
Tenuta
dell'
Ornellaia 2004 Ornellaia $169.95*
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 2003 Ornellaia
$124.99
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 2001 Ornellaia
$193.17*
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 2000 Ornellaia
$199.00*
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 1998 Ornellaia
$219.00
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 1997 Ornellaia
$250.00
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 1995 Ornellaia
$179.95*
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 1989 Ornellaia
$399.00 (1.5L)
*Wine sold as prearrival.
Masseto: Masterful Merlot
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia's Monovarietal Merlot
Lodovico Antinori, brother of Piero Antinori
and cousin
of Marchese Mario
Incisa della Rocchetta of Sassicaia,
founded his Tenuta dell' Ornellaia estate
in the
belief
that the
steep, southfacing coastal
slopes and sandy clay soils in this zone
afforded
ideal conditions for the
growth of traditional Bordeaux varieties,
most
notably, Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon. With the guidance of California
Cabernet specialist André
Tchelistcheff (the
man behind the famed '68 and '70 Beaulieu
Vineyard
Cabernet), Lodovico established a site
dedicated to
Merlot,
featuring its own unique
microclimate (akin to that of Pomerol)
and a soil
comprised of three clays.
It is the soil, in fact, that accounts for
Masseto’s inimitable character—a
rare medium that provides but a modest
suggestion
of its distinctiveness
through its unique color. While Ornellaia
(Cabernet–Merlot)
was the inaugural breakout wine for the
estate,
Masseto—a monovarietal
Merlot—is its crowning achievement,
enjoying vaunted status as Italy’s
most sought after wine in the collector's
market. As such, we are providing a limited magnum
offering from the 2002 vintage as we await the highly
anticipated arrival from 2004.
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 2002 Masseto (Magnum)
While ’02 did prove problematic
for various wine regions around the globe and in
parts
of central Toscana, conditions in
Bolgheri’s microclimate provided
for wines of quality and value. In the case
of Masseto, this misinterpreted
vintage realized a wine of significant
concentration and elegance, demonstrating
approachability upon release, as well
as the potential to realize greater
complexity with maturation. It is of
particular note that ’02 realized
a higher production total than that of
’03, which assistant winemaker Ken Lenzi
characterized as “out of
range,” given
the heat conditions. Moreover, it is
important to remember that one of the
hallmarks of this estate is its
consummate ability to overcome the challenges
presented by a difficult vintage (which
it successfully demonstrated in ’03).
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 2002 Masseto $528.91(1.5L)
Note: Masseto is available only in a limited allocation.
Bolgheri Super-Values
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia Le Serre
Nuove
Le Serre Nuove is Ornellaia’s second
label—a blend comprising
all of the primary Bordeaux varietals. The
proportions of each constituent
vary in accordance with the nature of
the vintage.
Interestingly, the final
blend is determined one year into the
wine’s aging regimen in barrique,
in conjunction with the last stage of
Ornellaia’s blending. Following
the selection of the lots that best
exhibit the
desired qualities, the
master version spends a few additional
months in
barrique, with
the length determined by the nature of the
blend.
The crafting of Le Serre Nuove is
oriented towards
projecting a youthful,
exuberant character; to this end, the
fruit is sourced
primarily from the
estate’s younger vineyards. In
the case of
the 2004 bottling, the
aging regimen was conducted in both second-
passage (75%) and new (25%)
barrique over the course of 17 months,
with 5
months allocated to the final
stage. The ’04 composition
entails 40%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot,
15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit
Verdot.
Released 6 to 9 months earlier than
Ornellaia, Le
Serre Nuove is often
regarded as a reliable indication of
its forthcoming
superior, primarily
with respect to the expression of the
fruit. This
provides a remarkable
quality to price ratio, wherein the
former far
outdoes the latter.
Tenuta dell' Ornellaia 2004 Le Serre Nuove $59.95*
*Wine sold as prearrival.
Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto
Sassicaia also operates a “second
string” in its house. The
2000 vintage saw the debut of
Guidalberto, a wine created by the
mastermind of Sassicaia, Nicolò
Incisa
della Rocchetta, and his
stepson, Sebastiano Rosa, a former
manager of
Argiano, who worked on the
creation of Argiano’s Super-Tuscan
Solengo. Named for Guidalberto
della Gherardesca, a maternal ancestor of
Nicolò’s who cultivated
vines in Bolgheri in the 19th century, the
wine’s conception differs
from that of Sassicaia’s, though
it evokes
the influence of the same
soil and climate. It is of interest to
note that
Gherardesca planted the
famous Cypress alley leading to
Bolgheri—a national landmark that
symbolizes Bolgheri’s Super-Tuscan
movement.
The grapes for Guidalberto are grown in
a site
adjacent to the Sassicaia
vineyards and owned by Conti Zileri,
cousin to the
Incisa della Rocchetta.
Each of the three varietals—Cabernet
Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (45%),
and Sangiovese (10%)—is vinified
separately. The oak aging regimen
transpires over a 12-month period in
225-liter
French and American oak
barrels. As in Sassicaia, the signature
bouquet of
Tenuta San Guido is
apparent; the wine displays the finesse of
Sassicaia on the front of the
palate and culminates in a rich,
lasting finish.
Tenuta San
Guido 2004 Guidalberto $49.95*
Tenuta San Guido 2002 Guidalberto $42.95
Tenuta San Guido 2000 Guidalberto $73.00
*Wine sold as prearrival.
Grattamacco Rosso
Grattamacco: Keeping the Faith
While it does not enjoy the same name
recognition possessed by its neighbors, Grattamacco
Rosso
is, nevertheless,
a defining figure in the launch of the Super-
Tuscan movement. Though
international varieties constitute the core
constituents of the Super-Tuscan
party, from its inception, Grattamacco evidenced
loyalty to its zone’s
main
varietal—Sangiovese—retaining its use
as a means of
cultivating authentic Italian character. This
expression is further
articulated in the estate’s commitment to
organic viticulture
and traditional vinification practices, the latter of
which entail
the use of gravity and refining the wine in
natural temperature
and humidity.
Piermario Meletti Cavallari established
Grattamacco in 1977, debuting
the Rosso bottling with the 1982 vintage. Cavallari
was assisted in the
development of this historic production by
enologist Maurizio Castelli,
whose areas of specialization, Sangiovese and
international varietals,
complemented the composition of
Grattamacco—Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, and Sangiovese, with the Cabernet
generally representing the
largest proportion. As its fellow Super-Tuscans
from the house of Ornellaia,
Grattamacco is known for delivering remarkable
constancy—yet another
example of a premier producer whose efforts are
not compromised by aberrant
vintages. It knew exactly what it was before Super-
Tuscans came to
be.
Grattamacco Offering
This special offering presents a rare opportunity to
assess Grattamacco’s consistency through
the years and document its profile at various stages of
its maturation. Included here are bottles ranging from
the historic 1985 vintage to the ripe 2000. Please note
that all are available in very limited quantities. For
information on specific vintages, please contact
Augusto Cardona at 212.473.2323, ext. 114.
Grattamacco 2000 Rosso $75.62*
Grattamacco 1998 Rosso $59.00*
Grattamacco 1996 Rosso $64.17*
Grattamacco 1991 Rosso $65.33*
Grattamacco 1989 Rosso $75.83*
Grattamacco 1985 Rosso $80.83*
*Please note: quantities are limited.
Super-Tuscan Six-Pack
Super-Tuscan Six-Pack Sampler
The Tuscan hills are renowned for their
great
beauty and wines. It is here
that the noble Sangiovese displays
her brilliance
and numerous personas
through various strains that have
adapted to
individual vineyards and
microclimates. When blended with
complementary grapes—frequently
those of international
identity—it realizes
wines with a particular
appeal, many of which find an
attentive audience
with non-Italian wine
drinkers, as they seem invitingly
familiar.
The year 1944 marked the tangible
emergence of
international varietals
in Toscana (though they had been
introduced over
time by various conquering
armies), when traveling consultant
Tancredi Biondi
Santi assisted Mario
Incisa della Rocchetta in the planting
of Cabernet
Sauvignon at his Tenuta
San Guido estate. In 1968, Mario
christened his
cuvée of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc
Sassicaia, a
wine that proceeded to
change the course of Italian wine
history. While
tradition is Italy’s
strength, it is important to recognize
that it has
always welcomed change,
with the taste preferences of Italians
always
evolving. Barolo’s
Nebbiolo, for example, was used
primarily to
fashion a sweet wine, until
produced in a dry version by Louis
Oudart in the
1840s, and the preferred
wine of Montalcino during the 16th
century was the
dry Vermiglio, which
later lost favor to the sweet
Moscadello.
The efforts of Tancredi and Mario, though
pioneering, were also a part
of Italian wine’s constant
progression—a necessary movement
that suffers abuse at the hands of
unscrupulous
winemakers. Given the success
of the pioneering “Super”
vini da
tavola, Bolgheri and
the rest of Toscana witnessed a
proliferation of
international varietals.
Even staunch adherents to tradition
validated the
change presented by wines
such as Tignanello (1971), Solaia (1978),
Grattamacco Rosso (1982), Sammarco
(1980), Ornellaia (1985), Guado al
Tasso (1990),
Vigna d’Alceo
(1996), and Camarcanda (2000), all of
which have
made an indelible
contribution to Toscana’s
fame.
The Super-Tuscans featured in this Six-Pack
capture
the defining qualities of the movement: Some
were
there at the beginning, and others came a
little bit
later, but all were inspired by the desire to
release
terroir by planting outside the rules. They
truly capture
place, and all enthusiasts and collectors
should find
this stomping ground within our essential
collection.
Super-Tuscan Six-Pack Includes:
Castello di Monsanto 1990 Nemo
(Cabernet Sauvignon)
Tenuta San Guido 2002 Guidalberto
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese)
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte
(Sangiovese)
Castello dei Rampolla 1997 Sammarco
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese)
Querciabella 1996 Camartina
(Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah)
Grattamacco 1989 Rosso
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese)
Super-Tuscan Six-Pack...$451.87*
*Free delivery in Manhattan.
New Saturday Seminar: Campania & Basilicata
Campania & Basilicata: Ancient
Glory
March 31, 1:00–3:00 p.m., $50.00
Every so often a wine region redefines
itself: The
seventies set the scene
for Toscana’s new identity and
the eighties
allowed Friuli to find
a greater self. The nineties and the new
millennium have been Campania’s
time….but it’s emerged not
so much
through innovation but
by bringing out and receiving
validation for
what’s been in its possession
for centuries—a distinguished
varietal
coterie of ancient grapes
initially cultivated by the Greeks.
Join us as you
become acquainted with
a region that has a substantial
past—one
that’s writing itself
anew in the present and pouring forth
into the
future with a rush.
The tasting includes:
Education provided by an IWM sommelier
Tasting Booklet (proprietary producer notes and a recipe)
Crystal tasting glass to keep following the tasting
Sampling of regional foods prepared by IWM chefs paired with each wine tasted
To make a reservation via phone:
Contact Michann Thompson at 212.473.2323,
x106, to
reserve your space, or to learn more about
IWM's new
Studio Regionale Saturday Tasting Series.
Click to Reserve Your Space in the Campania & Basilicata Tasting |
