February
17 ,
2007
Veneto:
Amarone to Prosecco
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
When I was looking over this week's selection, it occurred
to me that in addition to being great drinks, each of these
wines had a really weird name: Corvina, Rondinella, Ripasso,
Amarone, Recioto. It's little wonder, I thought, that people
in a culture saturated by talk of Merlots and Cabs feel
intimidated when they gaze at so many exotic terms. And
it's no surprise that even the best sommeliers shy away
from Italian wine: It's a vast world, full of thousands
of indigenous varietals, and nobody wants to feel like
a novice, especially not a professional.
But then again, like so many difficult tasks, educating
yourself about Italian wine is richly rewarding. To me,
the possibilities generated by such wildly different wines
are endless. Some of today's bottles are sweet and dense,
some dry and sour, some rich and tannic, but they are all
highly unique. And in this diversity lies the beauty and
excitement of Italian wine.
So if you're looking to discover something new and to
broaden your idea of what wine is, I suggest that instead
of freezing in confusion as you try to pronounce Valpolicella
in your head, take a more Italian approach: Relax, pop
open a bizarrely named bottle, and pour yourself a glass.
My best,
Sergio Esposito
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Valpolicella Classico
Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore and/or Ripasso,
Amarone della Valpolicella, and Recioto della Valpolicella
all generally comprise the Veneto grape trio of Corvina,
Rondinella, and Molinara. To comprehend these wines fully,
it is best to begin with the simple, dry red known as Valpolicella
(and Classico); The Classico (denotes a wine that is made
in the inner, superior Valpolicella zone) is the simplest
expression of the Valpolicella quartet.
For Valpolicella, Corvina and Rondinella typically represent
a minimum of 60% of the blend; the former contributes structural
elements and deep cherry aromatics, and the latter imparts
a floral note. Molinara’s role has been increasingly
reduced in recent years; some producers favor Corvinone,
a grape that is thought to be a subvariety of Corvina.
Small amounts of other local and international varieties
constitute the remaining percentage; the former include
Negrara, Croatina, Teroldego, and Dindarella, and the latter,
Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon.
Both Corte Sant’Alda’s Ca’ Fiui bottling
and Nicolis’ Valpolicella Classico offer textbook
introductions to the character of Valpolicella’s
most modest expression. Each features the standard varietal
composition (Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara), and sees
only a brief period of oak aging. The Ca’ Fiui delivers
red cherry fruit and a distinct savory element melding
with layers of spice; the Nicolis also offers a savory–spicy
dimension with hints of plums and cherries. A Valpolicella
Normale typically accommodates a wide range of foods, given
its marked acidity and lean fruit expression (relative
to the other Valpolicella wines). Pasta, grilled vegetables,
poultry, and red meats all find a reliable partner in this
staple expression of the Veneto.
Nicolis 2003 Valpolicella
Classico $13.20
Corte Sant'Alda
2004 Valpolicella Ca' Fiui $20.79
Valpolicella Superiore & Ripasso
Perhaps one of the best values in Italian wine based
on a price-to-quality
ratio is Valpolicella Superiore. At the
Superiore level, Valpolicella
must achieve higher alcohol content, receive longer
aging, and display more
body and structure than the simple Valpolicella. To
reach these goals many
Superiore undergo one of two techniques:
“governo alla Toscana” or
ripasso.
At this level of the hierarchy, Amarone and
Valpolicella meet “halfway,” so
to speak. Under the “governo alla
Toscana” method
(its name pays tribute to its original identity as a
refermentation technique used in the Chianti zone),
producers blend the
finished Valpolicella with
a small percentage of Amarone (from withered and
concentrated grapes) remaining
from a previous batch. Others employ the
ripasso method,
enriching the Valpolicella wine through direct contact
with (or passing through) the Amarone’s lees.
The grapes used for
a Valpolicella Superiore
are fully ripe, yet are not deemed fit to perform well in
the drying room, which
is used in the appassimento (or
passito)
process for Amarone.
The Novaia and Corte Sant’Alda bottlings
both derive from the ripasso
method,
receiving the beneficent influence of
Amarone’s opulent character. Novaia
employs slightly overripe grapes and substitutes
Corvinone for Molinara; it
is aged in barrique for 2
years and the influence of dried
grapes is discernible on the palate. The Corte
Sant’Alda, aged in barrique
for
18 months, is slightly more restrained, yet captures
the attractive flavor
of morello cherries.
Perhaps the ultimate expression for Valpolicella
comes from Romano Dal Forno. His technique is
more in keeping with the
“governo alla Toscana”
method,
which provides for higher concentration. Dal Forno's
Valpolicellas typically
outperform most Amarones on the
market.
Novaia 2001 Valpolicella
Superiore $29.70**
Corte Sant'Alda
2002 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso $35.64
Romano
Dal Forno 2001 Valpolicella Superiore $89.00*
Romano Dal Forno 1999 Valpolicella Superiore
$95.00
*Wine sold as future arrival.
**Wine will arrive late next week.
Amarone della Valpolicella
Valpolicella Superiore, however extracted,
offers but a modest suggestion
of Amarone—the masterpiece of the
Veneto. Having long resided in the
upper echelon of Italian wine, no other dry
wine in the world offers Amarone’s
level of extraction and complexity. Such depth is
achieved
through the appassimento process,
during which winemakers spread out
carefully selected grapes in single layers
to dry on straw or plastic mats
for 60 to 100 days. During this time, the
grapes loose a substantive amount
of water weight, dramatically concentrating
their sugars. Thereafter, the raisined
grapes are crushed and fully fermented into
a dry, full-bodied wine marked
by high alcohol (a minimum of 14%, though
it frequently attains between 15 - 16%). Part of its great
intrigue lies
in its deceptive nature: While the
palate may initially interpret it as sweet,
it finishes wholly dry, a quality
that is often rather austere in certain
productions.
At present, a triumvirate of producers
defines the rare heights of expression
realized by Amarone—Giuseppe
Quintarelli, Romano dal Forno, and Tommaso
Bussola. The first two are undisputed and
highly revered masters of the form.
While Quintarelli—whose wines we will
present in a special offering in
the near future—crafts
complex Amarones with a distinctive
rusticity and earthy element, dal Forno
delivers power-driven, opulent wines.
Appropriately enough, dal Forno regards
Amarone as an “extreme,
emotional” wine.
While these two masters certainly always stir
the emotions of wine connoisseurs,
at the moment, we at IWM are riveted by the
highly anticipated return of Tommaso
Bussola to our Veneto producer list. Several
years ago, Quintarelli named him
as the rising star of the Veneto, a
designation that Bussola has more than validated
through his tenacious experimentation
regimen, a fierce discipline that has wrought
wines of incredible intensity, garnering the
most prestigious of accolades and
placing his bottlings in the
near-unattainable zone.
Featured Amarone:
Bussola 2000 Amarone
della Valpolicella TB $96.11
Novaia 2000 Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico $56.10**
Nicolis 2001 Amarone
della Valpolicella Ambrosan $71.50
Nicolis
2000 Amarone della Valpolicella Ambrosan
$71.50
Corte Sant'Alda
1997 Amarone della Valpolicella $84.43
Corte Sant'Alda
2000 Amarone della Valpolicella $100.98
Romano Dal
Forno 2000 Amarone della Valpolicella
$339.95*
Romano Dal Forno 1999 Amarone
della
Valpolicella $389.00
Allegrini 1999 Amarone
della Valpolicella $772.20 (6.0L)
Allegrini 1999 Amarone
della Valpolicella $1,155.00 (9.0L)
*Wine sold as future arrival.
**Wine will arrive late next week.
Note: Quintarelli Amarones will be offered in the
upcoming weeks.
Recioto della Valpolicella
This is Valpolicella’s initial
incarnation—a sweet wine that dates
back to the Romans, who are credited with
having developed the appassimento
process
(drying of the grapes). The sweetness
derives from an arrested fermentation,
a procedure that stops the conversion of
sugar into alcohol, thereby leaving
residual sugar. It is widely believed that
Amarone emerged as the dry counterpart
to Recioto when an unattended barrel of the
latter fermented fully.
Novaia’s Recioto is pronounced on both
the nose and palate, delivering
a profusion of flavors encompassing
florals, spices, red fruits, coffee, and
chocolate. As with Amarone, a Recioto may
be enjoyed on its own, though it
marries well with a wide variety of cheeses
(hard, mature, and creamy), as
well as many pastries from the classic
dessert tray.
Novaia 2000 Recioto della
Valpolicella $31.35 (375ml)
Soave
You may think you know all about Soave,
believing there’s not much to
know,
given that the designation has been
compromised through both viticultural and
vinification methods and the enlargement of
the zone. Furthermore, you may
argue, while it was originally a blend of
Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave
(both aromatic varieties), changes in DOC
regulations permitted the introduction
of a more mundane strain of Trebbiano
(Toscano) as well as Chardonnay, thereby
precipitating the widespread production of
a fairly vapid wine. However, what
you may not realize is that there are a
small number of producers working against
this unfortunate conception of a wine that
can offer so much more than it’s
given credit for.
Granted, of the numerous (and we do mean
numerous) available bottlings of
Soave, only a small percentage realizes its
potential; thus, it helps to be
particularly producer-conscious when
exploring this zone. Notable Soave producers
include Anselmi (who dispensed with the
Soave designation in frustration with
its perpetuation of mediocrity, delivering
a wine like water, with “no
aroma and no taste”), and Dama del
Rovere, whose Tremenalto bottling
is pure Garganega (quite a rarity for the
zone), providing an abundance of
grapefruit and candied grapefruit flavors.
Stefano Inama employs oak
aging in his single-vineyard Vigneto du
Lot, providing a singular illustration
of Soave’s potential for robust
expression and virtually giving the grape
a new image.
Dama del
Rovere 2004 Soave Tremenalto $14.35
Inama 2000 Soave
Classico ‘Vigneto du Lot’ $34.68
(limited quantity available)
Discover More of Italy's Whites
Prosecco Valdobbiadene
It may be last in our line-up, but Prosecco,
as many of you are aware, is
truly a consummate first, as it is traditionally used to
kick-off an Italian event or feast. Of greatest
significance, perhaps,
is the fact that the region accorded DOC
status for the production of
Prosecco di Conegliano-
Valdobbiadene—is
particularly conducive to the production of
sparkling wine. The beneficent interaction
between cool mountain breezes and warm
ocean influences creates a unique
environment that enables the Prosecco grapes
to retain both their acidity and aromatic
expression. The latter is particularly
significant in the case of the Prosecco
grape, which typically lacks a pronounced
flavor profile. Although vineyards within the
Cartizze area are considered to
produce the DOC’s premier Proseccos,
achieving a more pronounced expression,
those outside this zone capture the
hallmark Prosecco—representing a
case wherein simple is best.
An unassuming bubbly, the Col Vetoraz
certainly belies its popularity: It not
only commences the majority of IWM’s
Studio del Gusto
and Vintage Room
tasting events, but currently
reigns as IWM’s best-selling wine.
Ruggeri NV Prosecco di
Valdobbiadene $16.50
(limited quantity available)
Col Vetoraz NV
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene $16.89
Col Vetoraz
NV Prosecco di Valdobbiadene $33.11 (1.5L)
Click for More Italian Sparklers
Samplers: Veneto's Verve
Sure, you can take most Italian regions and
represent them via a six-pack
format, but few enable you to get to know
them—to truly be “in
the zone,” so to speak, in such a
limited treatment. The Veneto, however,
is different. These half cases set you up
with all of its major genres. Moreover,
one of these
categories—Valpolicella—offers a
stylistic breadth
realized by few wines. Speaking of style,
all of your casual and special occasions
are covered here—simply let the
Valpolicella hierarchy be your guide.
Is it a Classico or
Superiore evening, or one you’d
like to take to extremes?
Introductory Six-Pack Includes:
Col Vetoraz NV Prosecco di Valdobbiadene
Nicolis 2003 Valpolicella
Corte Sant'Alda 2002 Valpolicella Superiore
Ripasso
Dama del Rovere 2004 Soave Tremenalto
Nicolis 2001 Amarone della Valpolicella
Ambrosan
Novaia 2000 Recioto della Valpolicella
Introduction to the
Wines of the Veneto…$182.93*
*Free delivery in Manhattan.
Enthusiast Six-Pack Includes:
Bussola 2000 Amarone della Valpolicella TB
Corte Sant'Alda 2000 Amarone della
Valpolicella
Nicolis 2001 Amarone della Valpolicella
Ambrosan
Tenuta Sant’Antonio 1997 Cabernet
Capitello***
Romano Dal Forno 1999 Valpolicella
Novaia 2000 Recioto della Valpolicella
Wines of
Veneto for the Enthusiast…$436.89*
*Free delivery in Manhattan.
***Note: The Enthusiast Six-Pack also includes an
exceptional take on Cabernet Sauvignon from Tenuta
Sant'Antonio. A few bottles were found in the cellar to
complement this Veneto sampler. For optimal
enjoyment, please allow the featured wines in this six-
pack to breathe prior to drinking.
Click for IWM's List of Recommended Samplers |
