January
26, 2007
Sassicaia,
San Leonardo, and Tua Rita
In This Issue
A Note
from Sergio
For a period of five years in the early
1990s, I served as the sommelier at
what was widely considered the best Italian
restaurant in America. Our cellar
held over a thousand bottles of
wine—quite a rare amount for that time,
especially as we stocked only Italian
bottlings. I methodically tasted everything
we carried. On my days off, I met with
industry friends and tried the wines
they had discovered. If I had any vacation
time, I took off for Italy to forage
around for obscure, esoteric bottles.
During that time, I fell in love with
lots of wines, and I began helping people
stock their cellars. I also made many predictions
about a product's future value: Most of them were right
on the money, but there's one that I still can't believe
wasn't.
In 1944, the Marchese Mario Incisa della
Rocchetta planted his Tuscan hillside
to Cabernet Sauvignon. He spent the
next 20 years experimenting with
the crafting and perfecting of a totally
new wine. In 1968, he released
Sassicaia—a
blend of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc
(both grown in Bolgheri)—thereby
launching the Super-Tuscan movement.
Years before everyone went wild for
Sassicaia, two young men clearly perceived
its future: della Rocchetta's son,
Nicolò, and della Rocchetta's nephew,
the Marchese Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga. They
both strived for years in the vineyards
and in the cellars to impress della
Rocchetta, each hoping that one day the
Tenuta San Guido estate might be theirs.
Soon after della Rocchetta unveiled
his wine globally, he made a difficult
decision. Despite rumors that Gonzaga
had surpassed Nicolò, della
Rocchetta handed the estate title over to
his son. Unembittered, Gonzaga returned to
Alto Adige and took control of his
family's San Leonardo estate.
I initially discovered San Leonardo wines on
the chilly shelves of the restaurant
cellar, and, without knowing their history,
immediately took to them. When
I drank them after a long dinner shift,
sitting at an abandoned table as the
cleaning staff made its rounds in the
restaurant, I could see that they had
been made by someone who had apprenticed
with a master. No matter the fact
that I was slumped at a banquet with
several sweaty sous chefs—when
drinking Gonzaga's San Leonardo, I felt as
though I was in the company of someone
elegant, dignified, royal.
Then in 1993, I met Gonzaga. He was, in the
way of true aristocrats, warm
and reserved at once. He also exuded
confidence and poise, and possessed impeccable
manners. Strikingly, I found that his wines
reflected each and every one of
his best qualities. So when Gonzaga's
importer asked me if I could help him
sell a hundred hard-to-move cases of the '88, I was
all too eager to
accommodate. I took the cases down to the
restaurant and sent out bottles to
tables every evening—receiving raves
and demands for more in return. I
was certain that it was only a matter of
time before San Leonardo wines shared
the elite ranking of the Super-Tuscans,
earning the plaudits and respect accorded
Sassicaia.
But then the world's taste took a drastic
turn. Journalists fell head over
heels for dark, fruity, ultra-modern
wines—exemplified by the highly
concentrated Tua Rita bottlings that helped
launch the frenzy. The media incited
the trend and then got wholly caught up in
it, writing stellar reviews only
for one particular style of wine. There was
little mention of more subtle wines
made in the old method, and when there was,
it tended to be venomous, critical
of everything that was once considered a
virtue—ageworthiness, complexity,
singularity, reserve. Consumers, bombarded
with such a black-and-white view,
took to buying what writers told them to
buy, and soon came to believe that
the only good wine was accessible and
sweet. In turn, many desperate second-rate
winemakers began to produce what they knew
would sell, disregarding ancient
techniques and adding chemicals to their
wines, trying—unsuccessfully—to
emulate Tua Rita. And the circle was
complete.
Gonzaga was, of course, a hold-out. He
steadfastly and proudly continued to
make his wines the way his uncle had taught
him. And his wines invariably offered
classic poise, beautiful breeding, and both
approachability and reserve. But
his wine never gained the status of the
Super-Tuscans as I had expected. I'm
not sure how much it mattered to him, but I
was always sad to see that most
people were missing out on something
spectacular.
Nicolò, the ultimate heir to
Sassicaia, wouldn’t have disappointed
della Rocchetta either. Reigning over
Tenuta San Guido, he followed in his
father's footsteps just as loyally as his
cousin. In so doing, he has managed
to ensure that Sassicaia remains true to
its origin. For that reason, I consider
Gonzaga and his cousin Nicolò's
wines—one a virtual unknown and
the other, perhaps the most famous from its
region—the two best Cabernet-based
wines at their respective price points.
Today, I'm offering the wines of both men, as
well as the Tua Rita that precipitated
such a craze. Together, they represent
several opportunities: The classic San
Leonardo currently sells for half its worth;
the futures on the newly released
Tua Rita earn more praise than virtually any
other estate; and securing the rare ’04
Sassicaia represents one of the top Italian
wine investments of the year.
My Best,
Sergio
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Classic Sassicaia (2004)
Sassicaia: The Super-Tuscan Pioneer
Before the 1960s, no one had considered
crafting a Bordeaux-style wine from
vines grown in Italy, much less from fruit
grown along the Mediterranean coastline
of Toscana’s Maremma zone. This area
was widely considered unfit for
quality wine production, as popular belief
held that vines exposed to the sea
winds and salty air of Bolgheri would
provide only poor grapes. More importantly,
the viticultural regulations set forth by
the DOC and DOCG limited creativity,
expression, and the qualitative potential
of the terroir. However, the drive
and foresight of Mario Incisa della
Rocchetta redefined wine production, making
enological history with the creation of
Sassicaia.
Like most Italian aristocrats, Mario had
been exposed to the famed wines of
France. Upon settling with his wife in
Bolgheri at the Tenuta San Guido estate,
he noticed that the soil on his property
was similar to that of the Graves
appellation in Bordeaux—rocky in
nature, as the name Graves, or
“gravel” in
French, suggests. In 1944, with the help of
traveling consultant Tancredi Biondi-Santi,
he planted cuttings of Cabernet Sauvignon
from Bordeaux’s Château
Lafite and began making the wine he later
christened Sassicaia, or “stony
ground” in the Tuscan dialect.
In 1968, after a quarter century of
experimentation, notably marked by the
enological assistance of Piero
Antinori’s winemaker, Giacomo Tachis
(Solaia & Tignanello),
Tenuta San Guido released the first vintage
of Sassicaia. It was met by the
fervent praise of critics and consumers,
and today, Sassicaia—a legendary
wine single-handedly responsible for
launching the Super-Tuscan movement—may
be the most coveted Cabernet
Sauvignon–Cabernet Franc blend ever
produced.
The regard for this wine is such that it
was accorded its own DOC status by
the classification system that shunned its
initial efforts—a first for
Italian wine.
Sassicaia
Sassicaia is a masterful cuvée of
the best Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet
Franc grapes from the vineyards of
Castiglioncello, Doccino, Quercione, San
Martino, Mandrioli, Sassicaia, and Aianova,
all of which are situated on hilly
slopes in a subzone of Bolgheri. When
blended, the fruit from these carefully
selected and meticulously maintained sites
creates an elegant and beautifully
balanced wine.
When discussing the ’03 Sassicaia, which
emerged impeccably balanced and
structured despite the heat of the vintage,
Sergio
reflected on what is, perhaps,
Sassicaia’s most distinguished
quality—consistency. Though it illuminates
the distinct elements of a given vintage, it
remains true
to its persona, more
than validating its eponymous site’s 1994
acquisition of a DOC designation.
It is a constant guiding star in a category
that has
been compromised by some
of its new members, many of which favor generic
character in place of true identity.
While the 2004 Sassicaia has yet to be released,
Sergio, along with winemaker Sebastiano Rosa (the
stepson of Nicolò), describe the
’04 as “classic and
structured.”
Tenuta San
Guido 2004 Sassicaia $79.98 (375ml)*
Tenuta San Guido 2004 Sassicaia
$159.97*
Tenuta San Guido 2004 Sassicaia
$349.98 (1.5L)*
Tenuta San Guido 2004
Sassicaia $739.98 (3.0L)*
Tenuta San Guido
2004 Sassicaia $1,949.98 (6.0L)*^
Tenuta
San
Guido 2003 Sassicaia $71.61 (375ml)*
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Sassicaia
$159.95*
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Sassicaia
$273.00 (1.5L)*
Tenuta San Guido 2002
Sassicaia $69.95 (375ml)*
Tenuta San Guido 2002 Sassicaia
$137.00*
Tenuta San Guido 2002 Sassicaia
$295.26 (1.5L)*
Tenuta San Guido 2001 Sassicaia $187.95*
Tenuta San Guido 2000 Sassicaia $227.28*
Tenuta San Guido 1999 Sassicaia $179.00*
Tenuta San Guido 1998 Sassicaia $214.25*
Tenuta San Guido 1995 Sassicaia
$229.98*
*Wine sold as future arrival.
^Limited availability
Value in Guidalberto
Guidalberto: Sassicaia's Cousin
The 2000 vintage saw the debut of
Guidalberto, a wine created by the
mastermind of Sassicaia, Nicolò
Incisa della Rocchetta, and his stepson,
Sebastiano Rosa, a former manager of
Argiano, who worked on the creation of
Argiano’s Super-Tuscan
Solengo. Named for Guidalberto della
Gherardesca, a maternal ancestor of
Nicolò’s who cultivated vines
in Bolgheri in the 19th century, the
wine’s conception differs from that
of Sassicaia’s (as detailed
below), though it evokes the influence
of the same soil and climate. It is of
interest to note that Gherardesca planted
the famous Cypress alley leading to
Bolgheri—a national landmark that
symbolizes Bolgheri’s Super-Tuscan
movement.
Guidalberto
While the 2002 vintage in Italy proved
challenging for many regions, it has
been largely misconstrued by the trade,
which all too often generalizes about
vintage conditions, thereby dissolving
recognition of the complex variations
that inform individual estate
performances. Moreover, Bolgheri’s coastal
location afforded insulation from a period
of profuse rains and dampness that
affected other zones. Many winemakers
in Bolgheri regard ’02 as a
“winemaker’s vintage,”
signifying
the opportunity that it represented for
winemakers to truly showcase their
merit. It is also significant to note
that the ’02 production of the neighboring
Masseto realized twice the figure of the
’03 vintage. The ’02 Guidalberto
testifies not only to Bolgheri’s
distinct experience in ’02,
but to the remarkable qualitative
consistency realized by the Tenuta San
Guido estate.
The grapes for Guidalberto are grown in a
site adjacent to the Sassicaia vineyards
that is owned by Conti Zileri, cousin to
the Incisa della Rocchetta. Each of
the three varietals—Cabernet
Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (45%),
and Sangiovese (10%)—is
vinified separately. The oak aging regimen
transpires over a 12-month period in
225-liter French and American oak barrels.
As in Sassicaia, the signature bouquet of
Tenuta San Guido is apparent. The
wine displays the finesse of Sassicaia on
the front of the palate and culminates
in a rich, lasting finish.
Tenuta San
Guido 2004 Guidalberto $31.95 (375ml)*
Tenuta San Guido 2004 Guidalberto
$49.95*
Tenuta San Guido 2004 Guidalberto
$105.95 (1.5L)*
Tenuta San Guido 2002 Guidalberto
$42.95*
*Wine sold as future arrival.
Sassicaia's 3rd: Le Difese
The Third Wine of Tenuta San Guido
In articulating the meaning of the wild
boar’s appearance on Le Difese’s
label, the Marchese stated: “The
defenses are the teeth of the
boar, and the boar, when he is attacked,
counter attacks with his teeth—his
‘defenses’— to
be exact.” While this account may not
provide insight into the wine, we
can provide technical support: Predominantly
Sangiovese with a small percentage
of Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), this cousin of
the mythical Sassicaia debuted quietly
in the 2001 vintage. Upon its release in
’03, a mere 500 cases were distributed
to local wine bars near the Bolgheri estate
at a cost of roughly six euros a
bottle. IWM was the first retailer to
introduce this wine to the American public,
and it remains virtually unavailable
elsewhere in the country.
Le Difese
As in the case of Sassicaia and Guidalberto, the
climate, influenced by the estate's proximity
to the sea
and the hills surrounding the vineyards,
exacts a very
strong influence on the maturation of the
grapes for Le
Difese. While Le Difese differs in
composition from
the other two wines, being predominantly
Sangiovese,
it delivers the signature fragrance that not
only
identifies the estate but brands it as a
distinctly
Tuscan wine.
Tenuta San Guido 2004 Le Difese $28.99*
*Wine sold as future arrival.
"Super" San Leonardo
Tenuta San Leonardo (Gonzaga): The Sassicaia of the North
Tangible evidence of winemaking at this
storied estate dates from the ninth century,
when the bishop of Verona ceded land to the
bishop of Trento. The “Crutched
Friars” pursued a studied approach to
viticulture three centuries thereafter,
and in the 18th century, Cristoforo Migazzi
issued formal demands for quality
wine to the manager of San Leonardo. Such an
early qualitative orientation provided
only a modest indication of what the
contemporary estate would achieve. Current
owner/winemaker Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga is a
relative of Tenuta San Guido’s
Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, yet this famous
connection is hardly the most impressive
of Gonzaga’s credentials. He has
honored his French enological background
by introducing the château concept to
Trentino—an effort that was
not merely philosophical, but given literal
dimensions in the cultivation of
the main Bordeaux varieties.
His success with the Bordeaux triumvirate is
particularly notable, as the
area’s propensity for rain during
harvest time keeps its relationship
to Bordeaux reds strained. Although
Trentino has received attention for its
efforts, much of the production is also
critiqued for its vegetal character.
Gonzaga, however, in cooperation with famed
consultant winemaker Giacomo Tachis
(of Sassicaia, Tignanello, and Solaia fame)
has achieved distinction as this
region’s foremost producer of
Cabernet Sauvignon.
San Leonardo Vallagarina
San Leonardo’s success with such a
challenging focus is best articulated
in this bottling—a Bordeaux blend
comprised of 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon,
30 percent Cabernet Franc, and 10 percent
Merlot. It debuted in the market
in 1982, and is widely regarded as the
standard bearer for Trentino Cabernet.
Gonzaga
2000 San Leonardo Vallagarina $64.95
Collectible Tua Rita
Tua Rita: Getting Better by the Vintage
Redigaffi—it’s a darling of the
critics, collectors scour the earth
for it, and we at IWM love it as well. Next
to Ornellaia’s Masseto and Le Macchiole's
Messorio, it is perhaps Italy’s
greatest one
hundred percent Merlot. This ripe, succulent
wine laced with tobacco-scented fruit is just
one of the hedonistic reds produced
by this small Tuscan estate, located in the
medieval town of Suverto. The estate
gained legendary status beginning in 1984,
when Rita Tua and Virgilio Bisti purchased
it; a major advance came in 1988 when they
introduced plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot in the context of land rich in
clay and silt. Giusto di Notri, a Cabernet
Sauvignon/Merlot blend, was the breakthrough
production, as its showings in the
1992 to 1994 vintages were deemed unanimously
spectacular.
Tua Rita’s rich, full-bodied reds are
crafted under the guidance of
winemaker Stefano Chioccioli, whose
résumé includes Allegrini,
I Giusti e Zanza, and Fanti. Chioccioli and
the owners have realized cult status,
establishing this estate as the leader of
the second generation of Super-Tuscans.
Redigaffi: Tua Rita’s Masterful
Merlot
This perennial Tre Bicchieri winner and
Parker favorite is made exclusively
of the finest Merlot grapes, aged in
French barrels for a period of 16 months,
and bottled wholly unfined and
unfiltered. A mere 400 cases are produced
annually, placing it among
Toscana’s most sought-after cult wines.
Tua Rita 2004 Redigaffi $239.99*
Tua Rita 2003 Redigaffi $199.99
*Wine sold as future arrival.
Tua Rita's Syrah
While Tua Rita does release its Syrah, the
amount offered to the market is
extremely limited. For the most part, it is
a library wine—retained for
those who are closest to its production.
Thus, this offering is extremely rare,
affording you the opportunity to be one of
the few in possession of a wine
that simply doesn’t respond to
demand, given its protective guardians.
Tua Rita 2003 Syrah $129.99^
^Due to the limited availability of this
wine,
please direct inquiries to Augusto Cardona.
Tua Rita's Wine Staples
Giusto di Notri: Tua Rita’s Flagship
With just over 1,600 cases produced
annually, this bottling is essential
for any genuine Tuscan aficionado. Named
after the eponymous vineyard and the
patron saint of Suverto, San Giusto, this
Bordeaux-style blend comprises Cabernet
Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (30%),
and Cabernet Franc (5%).
It exudes a deep purple color and intense
aromas of blackberries, espresso, vanilla,
and licorice. The palate offers abundant
black fruit and earthiness. Full-bodied
and concentrated with rich, sweet tannins
that signify aging potential, this
ever-popular IWM selection delivers a
lingering finish.
Tua Rita 2004 Giusto di Notri $71.99*
Tua Rita 2003 Giusto di Notri $71.99
Perlato del Bosco: Tua Rita’s
Tribute to Terroir
Sourced from the eponymous vineyard, the '04 Perlato is a blend of Sangiovese (70%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (30%). While this pair may provide an indication of the intended core varietal composition for future vintages, the identity of the wine is rather uncertain at present. As it had a five-year run as a pure-varietal, barrique-aged Sangiovese (including its inaugural debut vintage of 1997), it may be serving as a wine-in-progress-a medium through which to express the nature of various vintages. Given that it essentially went into blending mode in the abnormally hot '03 vintage (with a minor appearance [10%] made by Syrah in '02), it is quite likely, in fact, that vintage sensitivity is directing its present course.
Tua Rita 2004 Perlato del Bosco $35.99*
Rosso dei Notri: Tua Rita’s New
Child
Offering a younger, more approachable version
of the estate’s flagship
red, Giusto di Notri, this wine
displays lovely, ripe red fruit on
both the nose and the palate. It is comprised
of Sangiovese (70%), Merlot
(15%), and Cabernet Sauvignon
(15%).
Tua Rita 2005 Rosso dei Notri $24.99*
*Wine sold as future arrival.
Super Tuscan Six-Packs
Two Celebrated Collections
Our featured six-packs include producers whose
work celebrates the Super-Tuscan
“tradition.” Both also include an
honorary
selection—the San Leonardo—as the
winemaker, Marchese Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga,
trained under
Sassicaia creator Marchese
Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, Gonzaga’s
uncle.
Super Tuscan Sampler for the Collector
Some of the most famous names are
represented in the Collector’s Six-Pack
edition (refer to Sergio’s introduction
for the
rationale behind Gonzaga’s
relatively modest status). Experience where
it all
started with Tenuta San
Guido and revel in Castello dei Rampolla’s
esteemed Vigna
d’Alceo, a
cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit
Verdot
that invariably delivers
the ultimate paradigm of intensity and grace.
Indulge
in the former quality
through the unapologetically modern
expression of
Tua Rita’s Giusto di
Notri and experience a more classic
orientation in Le
Macchiole’s Paleo, a
wine that has performed on par with Sassicaia
and
evinces a quality regime
that privileges extremely low yields. Bring the
contemporary and classic together
in the collaboration that is 50/50, which
joins Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano and Chianti
through the mediums of Merlot and Sangiovese,
respectively.
Includes:
Avignonesi 2001 50/50
Le Macchiole 1999 Paleo
Tua Rita 2003 Giusto di Notri
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Sassicaia
Gonzaga 2000 San Leonardo Vallagrina
Castello dei Rampolla 2003 Vigna d'Alceo
Super Tuscan Sampler for the Collector...$598.12
Free delivery in Manhattan
Super Tuscan Sampler for the Enthusiast
In the Enthusiast’s Six-Pack collection
we seek
to celebrate the breadth
of style afforded by the Super-Tuscan
category, which,
in keeping with its inaugural
spirit, has undergone its own evolution. Meet
the new
generation of Super-Tuscans
in Gaja’s Promis and
the Aragone, the
second issue of Mario Batali and Joseph
Bastianich’s La Mozza label. This
wine, technically a “Super-Med”
(Bastianich’s term), was
released late last year and has proven an
exceptional
follow-up to the label’s
debut bottling,I Perazzi.
Paradoxically, it is perhaps the
most genuine Super-Tuscan expression, as Batali
and Bastianich sought to depart
from their conception of a Super- Tuscan wine
in its
creation. Experience the Sangiovese-based
blend of
Fiano and enjoy full-throttle renderings
of Sangiovese in Fèlsina’s
Fontalloro
and Petrolo’s Torrione.
Includes:
Fattoria di Fèlsina 2000 Fontalloro
Gonzaga 2000 San Leonardo Vallagrina
Ca Marcanda (Gaja) 2003 Promis
Fattoria di Fiano 2000 Fianesco
Tenuta di Petrolo 2003 Torrione
La Mozza 2004 Aragone
Super Tuscan Sampler for the Enthusiast...$270.29
Free delivery in Manhattan
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