October
13, 2006
Special
2000 Granbussia & Italy: California Style
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
Almost ten years ago, I was sitting at a table outside of
enologist Maurizio Castelli’s house in Chianti. Steve
Clifton, Maurizio, and I were eating pecorino and talking
about—what else? —wine. Steve was a new friend
back then, the owner of two highly lauded Santa Barbara estates,
Brewer-Clifton
and Palmina. The
former specializes in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, while the
latter concentrates on white and red Italian varietals. We
had met only six months earlier, and now we found ourselves
together in a rented Fiat, bumping around country back roads
on an exhaustive tour. But it was a good deal for everyone:
I was learning more about the intricacies of winemaking, and
he about the intricacies of Italy.
During the course of the dinner, Steve mentioned
that he was excited for our
next trip. We had planned to hit all the regions
together, meeting up in a major
Italian city every few months and travelling around.
Next up was Piemonte. Steve
had never been, he said, though he'd always
wanted to go.
"Excuse me?" I said.
"You make Nebbiolo and you've never been
to Piemonte?"
"I've been meaning to, but… ." I
was on the phone with my friend
Franco Conterno before Steve could finish. I could
not, in good conscience,
allow this situation to go unremedied; if Steve was
to do his wines justice,
he couldn't wait half a year to see the foggy Alba
vineyards.
"Tomorrow we're going to Aldo Conterno's
estate," I said when I hung
up.
"Um, Sergio, we're in Toscana now,"
Steve said. "And we leave
in two days. How do you expect us to reach
Piemonte?"
"If we leave at seven a.m., we can get there
by noon," I said. "That
gives us plenty of time to taste the wines in barrel
and some in the bottle,
too."
"Great," Steve said. His enthusiasm for
our Italian adventure had
clearly waned; I think he suspected that he was
hostage to a lunatic. "Are
you aware that it's currently two in the morning?
I considered his argument. "I see your point,
but I have a solution,"
I said. "We'll drink a generous amount of
grappa so that we can fall asleep
immediately." Maurizio was already inside,
picking a good bottle.
Five hours later, Steve and I, both in sunglasses
and looking paler than usual,
met at the car. We nodded at each other and hit
the road. Three espressos and
a sunrise later, we had regained our color and our
ability to communicate using
more than one syllable. Steve, who, after having
accepted his fate seemed his
usual upbeat self, asked why I chose to show him
this particular estate.
"Barolo today is all about modernist
producers, with a few traditionalists
still hanging on," I said. "The modernists
have exaggerated their
techniques to the point that Barolo's identity
doesn't exist, and the traditionalists
have trouble making wines that the generally
inexperienced consumers in the
US can appreciate. However, Conterno applies
technology and makes sure to maintain
Nebbiolo's character, producing an elusive happy
medium." All of this was
true, but also, I was secretly hoping that Franco
would let us try the Granbussia,
the best Barolo in the region.
As we passed Alba on our way to Monforte d'Alba,
slopes covered in vineyards
began to pop up next to the road. Steve peered
out the window. The vines were
heavy with grapes; harvest time was approaching.
"I can't believe this," he said.
"Everyone's vines look exactly
the same."
Most people would have been surprised as well. In
most of the world, it's easy
to distinguish a good producer from a bad one
because their plots of land are
visibly different. A bad producer lets his vines grow
tall and wild, so he doesn't
have to bend while picking them or tend to them
often. But not here. Here, the
vast differences in the taste of the fruit derive
from
the dramatically diverse
microclimates. Each rolling hill possesses its own
microclimate—in some
spots, you can walk 20 yards down a hill and feel
the temperature drop 10 degrees;
the soil composition changes with each foot. All
winemakers in Barolo understand
their land intricately, and each yields great fruit
from it. Some choose to
destroy this beauty because they feel the world
could never understand it. Others,
like Conterno, choose to illuminate it. I could
see it
in his face: Steve was
smitten.
At Conterno's estate, we toured the vineyards and
greedily tasted from all the
barrels they would allow us access to. Then we
graduated to bottles—Dolcetto,
Barbera, Barolo, and, at last, the spectacular
Granbussia. We were glassy-eyed
with satisfaction (and also probably with fatigue)
—our mouths stained
purple.
That night, on the empty autostrada on the way to
the airport, we discussed
the day.
"I'm not sure that I ever understood the
concept of terroir until now,"
Steve said. "Certainly, I've never seen such
an example of it. I feel like
I've just been to my own Mecca."
Today, I'm offering wines from Conterno's estate in
the center of that winemaker's
Mecca, so that you can experience what Steve and
I experienced a decade ago.
I believe so strongly in the Granbussia 2000 that I
bought a quarter of the
production. And the 2003 Il Favot Nebbiolo offers
an
exceptional opportunity to taste
Nebbiolo without paying a hefty price: As the year's
heatstroke prevented his
old vines from producing the acidity necessary for
his portfolio of
Barolo, Conterno picked early
from his younger vines and made Il Favot his only
representation of Nebbiolo for 2003. Enjoy these
wines and more.
My best,
Sergio Esposito
Barolo Granbussia Riserva
The Granbussia is one of the more traditional of Aldo
Conterno's offerings and vies with his brother's
Monfortino for positioning as Italy's most
significant Barolo. The 1970 debut bottling was
sourced from grapes in the Colonnello and Cicala
vineyards in the commune of Monforte d'Alba;
Conterno altered the composition significantly with
the 1985 vintage, introducing the Romirasco Vineyard
as the primary, defining source (70 percent) and
reducing the contribution of the other two vineyards
(15 percent each). While this remains the general
blending formula, the nuances of a given vintage are
recognized and articulated through appropriate
alterations.
After the individual sources are fermented and aged
for a period of 32 to 36 months in traditional
Slavonian oak, the components are assembled and
aged
for an additional year and a half or two. The
maturation period (in both cask and bottle)
comprises six years in total; thus, it is unique
among the wines of its designation, being released
one year after its fellow Barolos of the vintage.
The Bricco Cicala Vineyard is situated on concave
slopes that range in aspect from southeast to
southwest and are sheltered from hazardous winds.
Grapes benefit here from a clay-based soil that
offers lime and calcium carbonate, generating a
bold, ageworthy wine that is tempered by the
attributes of the Colonnello and Romirasco sites.
The sandy soil and younger vines of the Romirasco
Vineyard provide for softness and elegance, as does
the similar but more proportioned Colonnello, which
combines the balance and refinement of wines from
the Barolo subzone with the weight and structure of
those from Serralunga.
This wine is produced exclusively in the best
vintages, so the opportunity to acquire the
2000-which is marked by a return to the wine's
original
label-is deserving of special consideration. (It is
significant to note that Conterno made
Granbussia only eight times between 1971 and
1994.)
Aldo
Conterno 2000 Barolo Granbussia $279.00*
Aldo
Conterno 1999 Barolo Granbussia $135.00*
Aldo
Conterno 1997 Barolo Granbussia $187.50*
Aldo
Conterno 1996 Barolo Granbussia $187.50*
Aldo
Conterno 1990 Barolo Granbussia $798.00 (1.5L)
Aldo Conterno 1990 Barolo Granbussia $389.00
Aldo Conterno 1989 Barolo Granbussia
$425.00*
Aldo Conterno 1988 Barolo Granbussia $996.95
(1.5L)*
Aldo Conterno 1985 Barolo Granbussia
$449.95*
Aldo Conterno 1982 Barolo
Granbussia
$449.95*
Aldo Conterno 1974 Barolo
Granbussia
$340.00*
*Indicates future arrival.
A Singular Il Favot
While it bears the name of the Conterno cellar,
suggesting that it is somehow evocative of the
producer's style, Il Favot is one of only two
bottlings in the Conterno portfolio that is typically aged
en barrique (100 percent new oak). This
process imparts layers of vanilla and dark
chocolate, enriching the expressive nose and palate
of plum, red currant, and chestnut and fashioning a
modern style of Nebbiolo. However, it should be noted that the 2003 vintage did
not include the use of barrique, as this wine will represent the sole Nebbiolo
of
the
house
in this unusual vintage where Aldo decided to forego the release of his Barolos
- a decision he would later question.
The
wine's
stylistic
orientation is further delineated in its relatively
dark color and moderate tannic profile, both of
which are achieved through a relatively brief
maceration period. Solid acidity and moderate
tannins balance the lush mouthfeel, and the finish
is bold in character. The heat from the 2003 vintage delivers an unusal ripeness
and
density in the wine that has rarely been achieved, and more importantly provides
the
opportunity
for this wine to be enjoyed today without any cellar aging.
Aldo
Conterno 2003 Il Favot $49.95*
Aldo Conterno
2001 Il Favot $58.00
Aldo Conterno 2000 Il
Favot $57.00
*Indicates future arrival.
Barolo 'Bussia Soprana'
Derived from various sources in Bussia Soprana,
this offering is Aldo Conterno's introductory
Barolo. While it shares Il Favot's multivineyard
background, the two part company with respect to
both the age of the vines employed (Bussia
Soprana's minimum of 20 years is Il Favot's maximum)
and subsequent vinification techniques. After a
maceration period that ranges from ten to 15 days,
the wine rests in stainless steel vats for a four-
to five-month period. Thereafter, it is aged in
Slavonian oak for a period of 26 to 28 months. (The
Il Favot, in contrast, is aged en barrique
for approximately 18 months.)
Intense ruby red in color with garnet undertones,
the 'Bussia Soprana' offers a rich perfume of cedar,
licorice, and cherry jam leading into a full-bodied
palate replete with roasted red fruits, plums, and
mocha. The tannins show prominently and are
matched
by a vibrant acidity.
Aldo
Conterno 2001 Barolo Bussia Soprana $74.00
Aldo Conterno 2000 Barolo Bussia Soprana
$69.50
Aldo Conterno 1999 Barolo Bussia
Soprana $149.50(1.5L)
Aldo Conterno 1999
Barolo Bussia Soprana $69.50
Aldo Conterno
1997 Barolo Bussia Soprana $67.50
Aldo
Conterno 1996 Barolo Bussia Soprana $67.50
Aldo Conterno 1990 Barolo Bussia Soprana
$209.00
Aldo Conterno 1989 Barolo Bussia
Soprana $895.00(3.0L)
Aldo Conterno 1989
Barolo Bussia Soprana $199.00*
Aldo Conterno
1988 Barolo Bussia Soprana $787.00(3.0L)
Aldo
Conterno 1979 Barolo Bussia Soprana $989.00*
*Indicates future arrival.
Barolo 'Cicala'
Upon release, the Cicala Vineyard invariably
proffers the most tannic of the crus,
rendering its
name, which means "balm cricket," somewhat ironic.
Yet, for the collector of patience, waiting for
'Cicala' provides a revelation of what some regard
as the most genuine expression of Nebbiolo in the
Conterno portfolio, marked by a varietal bouquet of
roses, tar, minerals, cherries, and lead. The richly
textured palate delivers concentrated forest fruit,
while layers of mineral, licorice, and smoke add
additional complexity. The finish offers satisfying
persistence.
Aldo Conterno
2001 Barolo Cicala $199.00 (1.5L)
Aldo
Conterno 2001 Barolo Cicala $89.00
Aldo
Conterno 2000 Barolo Cicala $89.00
Aldo
Conterno 1999 Barolo Cicala $89.00
Aldo
Conterno 1995 Barolo Cicala $115.50
Aldo
Conterno 1990 Barolo Cicala $299.00
Aldo
Conterno 1990 Barolo Cicala $699.95 (1.5L)
Aldo Conterno 1989 Barolo Cicala $247.00
Aldo Conterno 1988 Barolo Cicala $395.00
(1.5L)
Aldo Conterno 1988 Barolo Cicala
$289.00*
Aldo Conterno 1985 Barolo Cicala
$269.00*
*Indicates future arrival.
Barolo 'Colonnello'
Slightly younger than 'Cicala' (35-40 years old),
the 'Colonnello' cru is best, perhaps, for those
collectors whose patience falls short of infinite,
as it offers the most reliably approachable of the
single-vineyard expressions. This forward
disposition is apparent in its deeper color and
greater intensity of fruit expression, though all
elements of its vinification regime-both aging
periods and techniques-are the same as those of the
Cicala's.
A fresh nose of dried flowers and fennel is followed
by a juicy palate of ripe red plums, strawberries,
and kirsch liqueur. Good structure, bright acidity,
and velvety tannins make the 'Colonnello' suave,
elegant, and eminently drinkable at any
age.
Aldo
Conterno 2001 Barolo Colonnello $89.00
Aldo
Conterno 1999 Barolo Colonnello $89.00
Aldo
Conterno 1990 Barolo Colonnello $798.00 (1.5L)
Aldo Conterno 1990 Barolo Colonnello $247.00
Aldo Conterno 1989 Barolo Colonnello $247.00
Aldo Conterno 1988 Barolo Colonnello $279.00
Aldo Conterno 1979 Barolo Colonnello $299.00
Quartetto: Super-Piemonte Blend
The indigenous meets the international to striking
effect in this blend of Nebbiolo (40 percent),
Barbera (10 percent), Cabernet Sauvignon (25
percent), and Merlot (25 percent). Each component
represents an established percentage and is vinified
separately; the component parts are then assembled
and aged en barrique for a period of 12
months. Like Il Favot, which may be regarded as its
companion in the portfolio, it is sourced from
multiple sites in Bussia Soprana and aged en
barrique for a period of 12 months. The powerful
bouquet of black cherry jam and earth leads into a
dense, full-bodied palate that is round and richly
fruity. The sun-roasted black fruits and spice on
the palate linger on the finish in concert with the
tannins.
Quartetto
2001 $39.00
About Aldo Conterno
For more than five generations the Conterno family
has enabled the Langhe hills to grow and develop,
becoming a prominent and legendary force in the
heritage of Piemonte Barolo. Cantina Conterno
originated in 1908 when Giovanni Conterno began
making wines. While not technically labeled
Monfortino at the time, the now legendary
riserva was born in 1912, the product and tangible
evocation of Giovanni's emphasis on premium quality
Barolo-which he regarded as being the exclusive
province of great vintages whose wines realize prime
aging potential through long fermentation and aging
periods. His son, Giacomo, not only inherited this
philosophy, but afforded it heightened expression.
It is of interest to note that the Italian tradition
of giving Barolo as a prestigious Christmas gift (a
practice that was abandoned when Champagne
became an
international symbol for celebration) enabled the
Conternos to prosper; like a few other producers,
they enjoyed substantial orders from the likes of
Fiat and Pirelli. In the early sixties, Giacomo
decided to pass the winery to his sons, Giovanni and
Aldo, inspiring them with the credo, "Only premium
quality can bring prestige to the Langhe."
Brothers Giovanni and Aldo both began their careers
in the early 1950s with their father, Giacomo.
However, with a divisive split in view over the
style of their wines, Aldo departed in 1969 to found
the "Favot" cellar, leaving Giovanni, the unwavering
traditionalist, to continue at his father's cellar.
Aldo's travels outside the Langhe-which most of his
contemporaries failed to experience-inspired his
change in philosophy. Before joining the family
business, he lived in the United States for three
years, a period during which he traveled to Napa and
spent part of stationed in Brooklyn for his military
service. He returned to Piemonte only when his Uncle
Franco died and help was required at the estate.
After leaving the Giacomo Conterno estate, it wasn't
long before Aldo established his own identity,
earning the "King of Barolo" title. His is a rare
case, as he is beloved by both the old guard and
emerging producers. Aldo's estate, Poderi Aldo
Conterno, is situated in Monforte d'Alba, right in
the heart of the Barolo region. Here he builds on
the traditions of his family and adapts what is
needed to maintain the highest quality. The winery,
which pursues exclusive vinification of its own 25
hectares of grapes, is inspired by Conterno's simple
vision-the blending of tradition with innovation to
produce the highest quality wines.
California's Passage to Italy via Palmina
Most, if not nearly all, of Italy's indigenous
varietals are fairly insular in mindset and rarely
take to foreign climes, showing themselves to have
an exclusive and special affinity with Italy's
various terroirs. Despite the difficulty they pose
in the vineyard, winemakers outside the Boot who
nurture a passion for these wines are able to honor
their Italian affair. One who's doing it with rare
success these days is Palmina (another notable
figure is Au Bon Climat's Jim Clendenen), a California
winery that is
dedicated exclusively to the cultivation of Italian
varieties.
This unique celebration is the concept of Chrystal
and Steve Clifton, a husband-and-wife
team that share not only a love for Italian wines
but a deep appreciation for
all aspects of Italian food and culture. Chrystal
and Steve's all-Italian bent
is significant, as they are not endeavoring to craft
wines that simulate their
Italian counterparts. Rather, the wines and Palmina
culture are dedicated to evoking
the spirit and philosophy that informs Italian
wines.
Palmina Alisos
The Alisos pays homage to the Cliftons' love of
Amarone, yet the tribute is a distinct and creative
one, as the appassiemento (or dried) grapes
constitute only 15 percent of the blend. Moreover,
these grapes are not the constituents of Amarone,
but rather, Sangiovese. In fact, none of the
traditional Amarone grapes are involved, as the main
portions are 60 percent Sangiovese (non-dried) and
30 percent Merlot. This wine offers intricate
layers, beginning with an effusive spice on the nose
that ushers in a lush yet structured palate of
lavender, dark cherry, and plums.
Palmina 2003 Alisos
$25.30
Palmina 2002 Nebbiolo Stolpman
As Nebbiolo is regarded as temperamental even in
Piemonte, it is particularly surprising to find it
showing so well in the Cliftons' care. However, as
Santa Maria Valley possesses primary elements of the
Piemonte terroir—namely, calcareous/clay soils
and a
southfacing hillside exposure—Nebbiolo gets to
make
itself at home, particularly given the efforts of
its hosts. The significance of their pursuit is
recognized by the annual invitation they receive to
attend Piemonte's Nebbiolo Symposium. This wine
realizes complexity on several levels: Floral notes
lead into a melding of wild berry flavors and a rich
nut medley of almonds and hazelnuts; the oak is well
integrated and offers a slight touch of cocoa on the
finish.
Palmina 2002 Nebbiolo
Stolpman $37.95
Palmina 2001 Sangiovese Stolpman
Of all the Italian varieties planted outside their
native ground, Sangiovese has probably proved the
most amenable to growing in alternative regions.
However, the quintessential savory aspects of the
grape tend to be absent in many California
renditions, sacrificed to an emphasis on fruit. The
Stolpman, however, captures both the grape's origins
and its on-location attributes, delivering bright
cherry fruit infused with mushrooms, forest floor,
leather, and spice. Accents of rose, cinnamon, and
cocoa contribute to the layered autumnal impression.
With a mere 125-case production, this offering is as
rare as the character that it projects.
Palmina 2001 Sangiovese
Stolpman $33.00
Vintage Babbo with Cavallotto
"THE CAVALLOTTO
COLLECTION"
"Vintage Babbo" Cavallotto
Dinner:
Monday, October 16, 2006
The Cavallotto family winery, now in its fifth
generation, was one of the first in the region of
Barolo to begin producing and marketing its own
estate-bottled wines. The winery is situated on the
top of the Bricco Boschis cru, just
outside the
village of Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of the
Barolo region. Traditional in style, their wines may
not garner as much attention from the wine media as
some of the more heavily marketed and modern-styled
wines, but they have had the rapt attention of Babbo
and all other serious Italian wine players for
years. Being traditional in style indicates that as
good as the wines may be upon release, they do
nothing but improve with time.
Cavallotto's Baroli are distinguished by their
penetrating aromas and elegant
textures, eliciting comparisons to fine red
Burgundies. Join IWM and Babbo on
October 16 as we celebrate the recent arrival of a
series of the older and classic
vintages of Cavallotto. Barolos from the '70s, '80s,
and '90s will be featured,
all of which have been sourced directly from the
winery's cellars.
Wines to be
served:
Barolo "San Giuseppe Riserva" 1978 &
1979
Barolo "Sud-Ouest Riserva"
1988
Barolo "Vignolo Riserva" 1989 &
1990
Barolo "San Giuseppe Riserva" 1989 &
1990
TO RESERVE, PLEASE CONTACT
US AT 917-715-3599 or at
babbovino@hotmail.com
If you are interested in experiencing Cavallotto on
your own, we recommend the
light and easy-drinking Freisa for an introduction
to this historic estate; for
the connoisseur, the sub-cru San Giuseppe Riserva is
currently approachable and
will provide for a classic introduction to
traditional Barolo.
Cavallotto 2004
Freisa 'Bricco Boschis' $16.50
Cavallotto 1999
Barolo San Giuseppe Riserva $66.00
All sizes listed above are
750ml.
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