September
22, 2006
"Exciting
Wine Case for Fall" Assorted Case
In This Issue
A
Note from Sergio
As the busiest season of the year approaches, I've been in
an extended tasting frenzy, traveling to many regions of Italy
to try as many wines as possible. In the coming months, I'll
be offering tons of new, spectacular bottles. But right now,
as we're filling the cellar and stocking the shelves, I want
to give you a sneak preview.
Today, I'm suggesting a dozen of my current favorites. These
wines from across Italy are, to me, especially exciting, and
I plan to fill my home cooler with them. Consider these standouts-12
beautiful tastes of what's to come.
My best,
Sergio Esposito
Hofstätter
2005 Pinot Bianco
An intelligent and qualitatively driven protocol that integrates
tradition and innovation is a hallmark of the Hofstätter estate,
which was founded over one hundred years ago. Current owner
Martin Foradori's grandparents were among the first to label
wines by origin and to vinify grapes representing specific
sites individually.
White varieties abound in Italy's Alto Adige, and producers
are known for showcasing the stylistic range of individual
varieties-particularly Pinot Bianco, which is regarded by
some as the most significant of the whites in the Süditorol
(as Alto Adige is called in honor of its Germanic affiliation).
Many unexceptional examples belie this wine's ability to go
beyond a simple, crisp quaffer. Yet, when fully ripened grapes
are sourced from a low-yielding vineyard, its narrow flavor
profile broadens and heightens the nuttiness that is only
faintly perceptible in lesser examples. The Hofstätter decidedly
conveys the more evolved character, offering an aromatic nose
of white flowers that is echoed on the medium- to full-bodied
palate and accented by subtle spice and honey notes.
Hofstätter 2005 Pinot Bianco $20.79
Jermann
2003 Vinnae
Friuli-Venezia Giulia is Italy's white grape bastion, producing
an extensive repertoire of both indigenous and international
varieties. It does not merely impress with its diversity,
as the region affords impressive stylistic variations within
its individual varietal categories.
Although Friulian whites are typically regarded as bright
and crisp, the experimental bent of many Friulian producers
has facilitated a wine category-popularly known as Super-Whites-that
emulates a richer style, signifying an international allegiance
most pointedly through a reliance on the Chardonnay grape.
However, within this category are producers who merge the
two modes.
Silvio Jermann is one of the producers who operates in this
space; in fact, the release of his "Vintage Tunina" (a blend
of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Tocai Friulano, and Picolit)
launched the Super-White movement and is arguably Friuli's
most successful wine to date.
Ribolla is one of Friuli's oldest indigenous varietals, though
its career was undermined in the 19th century, when odium
(powdery mildew) infiltrated several vineyards. Jermann honors
its former glory in this bottling, which, as with all his
wines, he desires to "prompt our emotions and a sense of authenticity."
Jermann 2003 Vinnae $22.00
Ceralti
2004 Lunare
While Vernaccia and Trebbiano are the white varieties most
common to Tuscany, some international whites also feature
in the region's production, and Chardonnay-one of the the
most ubiquitous of the whites-often figures in a Toscana IGT
blend, where it adds body and complexity.
In the Lunare, however, it is not paired with its regulars,
but rather, joins with the unexpected-Traminer (an indigenous
varietal that is primarily grown in the Alto Adige region
of Italy) and Viognier. The presence of these floral and perfumed
varieties is evident on the intensely aromatic nose, which
carries into a lush and honeyed palate displaying notes of
honeydew, apricot, butterscotch, white flowers, and a slight
smokiness.
Ceralti 2004 Lunare $33.00
Hilberg
2004 Barbera d'Alba
Once considered to be a rather unexceptional, commonplace
grape, Barbera's image began to undergo a significant change
in the late 1970s. Now, several winemakers employ techniques
that maximize the grape's virtues (such as aging in French
barriques and sourcing grapes from premier sites).
Though Nebbiolo may be Piemonte's status grape, Barbera is
the most widely planted variety in the region, achieving its
greatest expression in the Barbera d'Alba and Barbera d'Asti
DOCs.
Piemonte producer Hilberg has maximized Barbera's makeover,
fashioning a style that's been embraced by the cult market.
Styled to be drunk young, this hard-to-get yet oh-so-easy-to-handle
idol covers a vast gastronomic line-up.
Hilberg 2004 Barbera d'Alba $19.80
Contini
2002 Nieddera Rosso
The Contini winery is one of Sardinia's oldest and most renowned.
As many of Contini's vineyards are planted on the Sinis peninsula,
the wines enjoy a beneficent coastal influence that enables
many of them-both red and white-to complement fresh seafood.
The virtually unknown Nieddera variety is related to the Cannonau
grape (the Sardinian name for the Grenache grape). Nieddera
is more forthcoming in its fruit expression than its better
known relation, and Contini's bottling seems to confirm this
point of difference in its copious black cherry and plum tones,
which carry a discernible hint of bracing sea air.
Contini 2002 Nieddera Rosso $21.04
Castell'in
Villa 2000 Chianti Classico
Castell'in Villa, one of the oldest estates in Castelnuovo
Berardenga, is located in the southernmost part of the Chianti
Classico zone. Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa owns and
operates the winery and crafts wines of intelligence-wines
that require reflection and possess remarkable aging capability.
It is difficult to ascribe a style to the wines of Castell'in
Villa. Traditional wines, all skillfully crafted from estate-grown
fruit that is hand-selected at the height of ripeness, are
the producer's hallmark. The winery adheres to a philosophy
that permits release only when the wines have reached a certain
level of maturity (ensuring that no bottle will be opened
prematurely); thus, the winery typically releases vintages
two years after most other producers.
The Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico is a multivineyard,
pure Sangiovese bottling aged in traditional Chianti Classico
casks for approximately 12 months. It exhibits a level of
concentration that is atypical for a Chianti Classico and
promises rewarding aging potential.
Castell'in Villa 2000 Chianti Classico $22.00
Villa
Carafa 2002 Aglianico Zinè
Villa Carafa is an ancient-varietal specialist situated in
the town of Teverola in the Campania region. Villa Carafa's
portfolio represents a plethora of unknown grapes-Asprinio,
Falanghina, Fiano, Greco, and Casavecchia-that flourished
in the Greek colonies under a systemized viticultural regime.
The ancient Aglianico grape most likely derives its name from
Ellenico or Hellenico (so christened by the
Romans, who documented the Greeks' history in wine), and the
Greeks are thought to have introduced the grape to the Italic
peninsula as early as 700 BC. Of all the obscure varieties
pervading the Boot, Aglianico has proved the most promising,
as Campania's celebrated climate, volcanic soils, and high
elevation work in concert to produce a late-ripening grape
offering black fruit, spice, and minerals.
Villa Carafa 2002 Aglianico Zinè $24.20
COS
2003 Pojo di Lupo
The Nero d'Avola grape is grown almost exclusively in Sicily,
where it attains high sugar levels and surprisingly, in spite
of the heat, a firm degree of acidity. When vinified as a
single varietal, it fashions a red that often inspires comparison
to Syrah, and, like the latter, is amenable to projecting
a vast stylistic range.
The Pojo emphasizes the dark, meaty character of the grape
on both the nose and palate. The pronounced savoriness of
this wine issues a demand-rather than an invitation-for rich
and succulent meats. The Sicilians may very likely pair it
with polpettoni (meatballs), which they serve as a
main course (and are also credited with having invented) as
opposed to a "topper."
COS 2003 Pojo di Lupo $25.25
Masùt
da Rive 2003 Rosso Semidis
IWM's recent acquisition of Masùt da Rive Rosso Semidis
gave us pause, serving to remind us not only why Merlot is
a noble grape, but more importantly, that Italy produces some
of its most alluring examples. You may question the varietal
composition of the Semidis-which entails 5 percent Cabernet
Sauvignon-particularly if New World Merlot is your palate's
point of reference. This reveals a side of Merlot that you
don't taste often, and with its limited production of 300
cases, there isn't much opportunity. The perfumed nose offers
roses and berry fruits; on the palate, earth tones contrast
the red fruit flavors, and the firm structure conveys an impressive
and satisfying maturity.
In the 1970s, Masùt da Rive adopted a new philosophical orientation
privileging quality; this was formally pursued through the
modernization of both viticultural and vinification techniques.
Masùt da Rive now operates in the ranks of the region's top
producers.
Masùt da Rive 2003 Rosso Semidis $38.50
Peter
Dipoli 2001 Iugum
Peter Dipoli is one of a few producers from the Alto
Adige whose reds do more than hold their own against the dominant
white scene. Iugum (meaning "yoke") is sourced from
one of Alto Adige's warmest vineyard areas, one in which the
soil content is rich in clay. Comprised of 70 percent Merlot
and 30 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, the lots are vinified separately,
then aged for a period of six months in stainless steel and
four months in bottle prior to being released. A portion of
Iugum is generally blended with Dipoli's Fihl, which,
in exceptional years, is comprised solely of Merlot. While
the Fihl references Bordeaux in its structure and well-integrated
fruit, the Iugum is modern in temperament, with more forward
fruit flavors and silky tannins.
Peter Dipoli 2001 Iugum $45.33
San Giuliano 2003 Barbaresco
San Giuliano occupies the historic hillside vineyard
of the same name. Owner-enologist Giulio Pastura and
his wife, Mariella Stupino, perform the vineyard and
cellar work themselves, producing a line of wines
representing the region's native varieties. They age
their accessible Barbarescos in accordance with the
traditional aging regimen, which requires a period
of 18 months in botti. While this Barbaresco
is young, it is
approachable at the present time, given the ripeness
of the 2003 vintage. The perfumed nose of violets
precedes bright flavors of strawberry on the palate.
This offering will not
be around for long, as it is an IWM customer
favorite.
San Giuliano 2003
Barbaresco $49.50
Villa Schinosa 2003 Moscato di Trani
Moscato di Trani is a sweet wine of Puglia's past
that has been revived through the viticultural
vision and desire of Villa Schinosa's enologist,
Cristoforo Pastore. The wine derives from the
Moscato Bianco grape, which is cultivated throughout
Italy's viticultural expanse and is the primary
variety used in semisparkling, fully sparkling,
fortified, and passito wines.
Villa Schinosa
2003 Moscato di Trani $24.20 (500ml)
"Exciting Wines for Fall" Assorted Case
Lists abound with the change of season, advising us
on fashion trends, recommending destinations, and
briefing us on the various genres of the
entertainment world's new season. Generally
speaking, we have to take a tip here, a tip there,
and try our best to feel like we're of the moment.
It just shouldn't be so difficult, and with our
"Exciting Wines for Fall" Assorted Case special,
it's not...we've set
you up to be drinking well with wines that
accommodate a range of palate styles and are, most
importantly, attractively priced. So, go through
the whole case-and fall in line with IWM's case
logic-then you'll be making a list that's all
your own...
"Exciting
Wines for Fall" Assorted Case (1 of each)
$317.96 |
