September
12, 2006
Gaja
2003 Crus, Barbaresco, and More
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
Ever since Angelo Gaja took over his family estate in 1962, his products have divided wine enthusiasts into two impassioned camps. There are the Gaja lovers-those collectors who believe his wines constitute the DRC of Italy; who argue that the wines age beautifully and seemingly forever; who note that Gaja alone brought Barbaresco into public consciousness; and who point out that the prices keep climbing. And then there are, of course, the members of the anti-Gaja constituency-those who consider the drink too international; who prefer Bruno Giacosa's sensual wines; who think Gaja makes excessively linear, overly polished merchandise; and who point out that the prices keep climbing.
As I see it, neither side is right or wrong; your opinion of Gaja merely reflects what you value in wine. But one thing is for sure: Angelo Gaja is one of Italy's most successful winemakers. And there's no denying the fact that with his brilliant mind for business and marketing, he'll maintain this status for years to come. So today, I'm offering his 2003 Crus and more, including the historic and scarce 1961 Barbaresco - the last bottling made with his father. As an added bonus, the prices have again risen-so no matter what side of the great Gaja debate you're on, you can take pleasure in the fact that you were right about that.
My best,
Sergio Esposito
Gaja
Barbaresco
Perhaps nowhere more so than in the heralded wine region of Piemonte do traditional and modern winemaking techniques coexist in such a provocative state of tension. And among those of the modern school, there is no one perhaps quite like Angelo Gaja-a winemaker who galvanized winemaking in Piemonte with his radical and controversial departure from conventional viticultural techniques. The early innovations in his history-which formally began with the 1962 vintage-include the reduction of crop size, shortened pruning of Nebbiolo vines, and decreased fermentation periods. The 1975 vintage marked his inaugural use of small French oak barrels, and he is widely regarded as having instituted this signature practice of the modernist movement, thereby softening the formidable tannins of the Nebbiolo grape and producing a wine that is richer and more expressive of its fruit than traditional models. Of significant interest is the fact that he continues to employ some of the largest and oldest botti in Piemonte to craft a traditional-style Barbaresco, sourced from various vineyards in the Langhe zone. His work, however, has been mainly defined by efforts to elicit the latent potential and character of the Nebbiolo grape by vinifying and promoting single-vineyard wines, beginning with Sorì San Lorenzo in 1967.
Gaja Barbaresco 2003
Angelo honors his heritage in this bottling, which constitutes the sole "proper" Barbaresco in his portfolio, as it is a pure-varietal expression of the Nebbiolo grape. A seven-year- old Gaja Barbaresco will typically show a ruby-purple color; this wine offers a complex bouquet of wild red fruits, accented by licorice, toasted aniseed, and coffee beans. Rich but toned, with a vivacious stroke of acidity. Well-integrated tannins support the long finish.
It should be noted that the wines from the Gaja estate in the atypical vintage of 2003 display more opulence, less acidity, and softer tannins than do bottlings from standard years, resulting in more approachable wines. Production was inconsistent across Piemonte; however, great producers made solid Barbarescos that provide for earlier accessibility (as opposed to the longevity that is associated with the more structured and tannic vintages of 1996, 1999, and 2001).
Gaja 1961 Barbaresco $495.00
Gaja 1985 Barbaresco $296.00
Gaja 1988 Barbaresco $495.00 (1.5L)
Gaja 1989 Barbaresco $274.00
Gaja 1989 Barbaresco $509.00 (1.5L)
Gaja 1990 Barbaresco $319.00
Gaja 1998 Barbaresco $115.37 (375ml)
Gaja 2000 Barbaresco $77.66 (375ml)
Gaja 2000 Barbaresco $169.77*
Gaja 2001 Barbaresco $169.50*
Gaja 2003 Barbaresco $169.95*
*Available for pre-arrival sale
Gaja Barbaresco 1961
Please note that the historic 1961 bottling of this Barbaresco represents Angelo's last effort with his father before he took over the responsibilities of the Gaja Estate. It is a classic representation of traditional Barbaresco and is still holding its own from the majestic vintage with plenty of fruit and velvety tannins.
Click for 2003 Sassicaia!
Gaja
Cru Barbaresco (Langhe Rosso)
Angelo Gaja's single-vineyard Barbarescos-Sorì Tildin,
Sorì San Lorenzo, and Costa Russi-have achieved legendary
status in the wine world and are virtually unrivaled in
the intensity of their expression. Their status is somewhat
ironic, as Gaja ignited controversy among the local cognoscenti
when he dispensed with the Barbaresco appellation, adding
a touch of Barbera to achieve higher acidity and freshness.
As a result, in 1996 Angelo dropped the appellation name
of his single vineyard Barbarescos which are now classified
as Langhe DOC. A nod to tradition still exists in his use
of the term sorì, the Piemontese expression for "southern
exposure," which he privileges over the French term cru
("single vineyard").
Sorì San Lorenzo
Of Gaja's three single-vineyard Barbarescos, the Sorì San Lorenzo is the most concentrated and powerful, providing exceptional aging potential. When a Sori San Lorenzo reaches the seven- year mark, it generally displays a deep ruby color, with enticing scents of dense purple fruit and coffee. Fresh, spicy layers of intense, dark fruit coat the palate. Strong tannins are in excellent balance with an acidic charge that reaches far into the commanding finish. For more on the 2003 vintage refer to notes on the Gaja Barbaresco.
Gaja
1979 Sorì San Lorenzo $396.00
Gaja 1982 Sorì San Lorenzo $469.99*
Gaja 1982 Sorì San Lorenzo $1,349.00 (1.5L)
Gaja 1985 Sorì San Lorenzo $398.00
Gaja 1988 Sorì San Lorenzo $280.50*
Gaja 1989 Sorì San Lorenzo $479.99*
Gaja 1990 Sorì San Lorenzo $479.99*
Gaja 1997 Sorì San Lorenzo $1,195.00 (1.5L)
Gaja 2000 Sorì San Lorenzo $269.00
Gaja 2001 Sorì San Lorenzo $279.95*
Gaja 2001 Sorì San Lorenzo $698.90 (1.5L)
Gaja 2001 Sorì San Lorenzo $1,499.50 (3.0L)
Gaja 2003 Sorì San Lorenzo $296.95*
*Available for pre-arrival sale
Sorì Tildin
Roncagliette, the predominantly south-facing vineyard that provides the fruit for this wine, derives its nickname from Angelo's grandmother, Clotilde Rey, who also gave her last name to one of Gaja's Chardonnays. After a seven-year period, this becomes a wine of balance, more intense than the Costa Russi though exhibiting less brawn than the Sorì San Lorenzo. Purple flecks dance through deep ruby red. Spicy forest aromas surround plums and sour cherries. Black fruit dominates the palate, with undertones of minerals and cocoa mulling below. This compelling and prodigious wine will become more refined with age. For additional insight concerning the 2003 vintage, refer to notes on the Gaja Barbaresco.
Gaja
1990 Sorì Tildin $479.99*
Gaja 1990 Sorì Tildin $1,349.00 (1.5L)
Gaja 2000 Sorì Tildin $269.00*
Gaja 2001 Sorì Tildin $279.95
Gaja 2001 Sorì Tildin $698.90 (1.5L)
Gaja 2001 Sorì Tildin $1,499.50 (3.0L)
Gaja 2003 Sorì Tildin $296.95*
*Available for pre-arrival sale
Costa Russi
Like Sorì Tildin, Costa Russi is found in the Roncagliette site of Barbaresco. It is an approachable Barbaresco, as well as the most refined and delicate of the wines in the Barbaresco single-vineyard trio. At seven years of age, it is typically dark ruby red in color, with a nose of blackberries and violets; this impression continues on the palate, where warm java joins the profile. Elegant and lavish, it retains a lively zing over the dense menagerie of flavors and resolute tannins. For more information regarding the 2003 vintage, refer to notes on the Gaja Barbaresco.
Gaja 1982 Costa Russi $469.99*
Gaja 1989 Costa Russi $449.99*
Gaja 1990 Costa Russi $449.99
Gaja 2001 Costa Russi $279.95*
Gaja 2000 Costa Russi $369.00
Gaja 2001 Costa Russi $279.95
Gaja 2001 Costa Russi $1,499.50 (3.0L)
Gaja 2003 Costa Russi $296.95*
*Available for pre-arrival sale
Click for more Barbaresco!
Gaja
Barolos (Langhe Rosso)
Conteisa
Gaja's Conteisa, while the product of Nebbiolo grapes grown in Barolo, is classified as Langhe DOC, as it includes eight percent Barbera. The wine is named for the medieval conteisa, or quarrel, that ensued between the zones of La Morra and Barolo over the prime vineyard land of Cerequio. The dispute was settled in 1275 when La Morra prevailed, and the plot is still treasured today for its provision of intensely aromatic wines; Gaja annexed the Gromis area of the site in 1995. Ruby red in color, with earth-tone highlights. Offers a sweet floral bouquet, followed by a svelte palate of ripe plums and crushed red berries that is gracefully adorned by spice.
Gaja 2001 Conteisa $169.50
Gaja 2001 Conteisa $369.50 (1.5L)
Gaja 2001 Conteisa $1,241.80 (5.0L)
Sperss
The name Sperss means "nostalgia" in the local dialect and refers to a particular vineyard in the Marenca-Rivetta site in Serralunga, where the Gaja family had purchased grapes until 1961. Thereafter, they began a regimen of producing wines exclusively from their own vineyards, and a series of changes began to unfold that would have a profound impact on Piemonte wines. As the estate grew and developed, Angelo came to covet the top-quality fruit his family had found in Sperss, precipitating his purchase of the plot in 1988. As with his other wines, he wished to improve its performance in poor vintages; thus, in 1996, he added 6 percent Barbera to the Nebbiolo, forfeiting the Barolo designation in order to fashion a qualitatively superior wine. Exhibiting a deep, rich red color at the seven-year mark, Sperss is a huge wine that displays classic Barolo characteristics-ripe, expansive black cherry and strawberry fruit; truffles; minerals and spice; and streaks of tar. It explodes with flavor and achieves uncommon complexity and stature, with a full body, firm tannins, and the stern demeanor characteristic of Serralunga wines.
Gaja 1988 Sperss $625.00 (1.5L)
Gaja 1994 Sperss $72.30 (375ml)
Gaja 1997 Sperss $149.00 (375ml)
Gaja 1998 Sperss $116.34 (375ml)
Gaja 1999 Sperss $118.35 (375ml)
Gaja 2000 Sperss $229.00
Gaja 2000 Sperss $1499.95* (5.0L)
Gaja 2001 Sperss $189.95*
Gaja 2001 Sperss $396.50 (1.5L)
Gaja 2001 Sperss $1,499.95 (5.0L)
*Available for pre-arrival sale
Click for more Barolo!
Gaja
Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah
Darmagi
Darmagi means "what a pity" in the Piemontese dialect, and it was the singular expression uttered by Angelo's grandfather whenever he passed the hillside vineyard where Angelo had ripped out old Nebbiolo vines, replacing them with the internationally acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon. The result, however, is hardly to be pitied... This intense, dark red is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (95 percent), Merlot (3 percent), and Cabernet Franc (2 percent), in which luscious fruit joins minerals, dried violets, and anise in a honeyed pool of cassis. Concentrated on the nose and palate, with expansive and complex layers, this beautiful wine marries the distinct terroir of Piemonte with the engaging personalities of its international contributors.
Gaja 1997 Darmagi $108.24 (375ml)
Gaja 1998 Darmagi $120.38 (375ml)
Gaja 1999 Darmagi $120.38 (375ml)
Gaja 2001 Darmagi $189.95*
Gaja 2001 Darmagi $396.50 (1.5L)
Gaja 2001 Darmagi $834.99 (3.0L)
*Available for pre-arrival sale
Chardonnay Gaia & Rey
This may be not only the best Chardonnay in Italy, but the best white wine to come out of the Boot! Gaia & Rey derives from Angelo's first Chardonnay vineyard and is named for his oldest daughter, Gaia Gaja, and his grandmother, Clotilde Rey, a marketing mastermind who taught Angelo the importance of promotional efforts (making Gaja's tribute particularly apropos). Gaia & Rey is fermented with naturally occurring yeasts found on the grape skins and in the winery, endowing the wine with a touch of exoticism. It is a hedonistic wine, delivering lusciously ripe flavors of guava, tangerine, honey, marzipan, and oak spice. Impressively chewy in the mouth, the concentrated, ripe fruit is perfectly balanced by a lively acidity that persists through the long, lingering finish.
Gaja
2000 Chardonnay Gaia & Rey $59.50 (375ml)
*Note: If you are interested in obtaining additional vintages of the Gaia & Rey, please contact Perry Porricelli at 212.473.2323 x102.
Gaja's Ca' Marcanda Promis
While Angelo Gaja's soul may reside in Piemonte, his spiritual and qualitative leadership has extended well beyond the Nebbiolo grape and the foothills of the Langhe into the blue-chip locations of Montalcino and Bolgheri. Gaja acquired his Tuscan property, Ca'Marcanda, in 1996, and planted the vineyards primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, cultivating smaller portions of Cabernet Franc and Syrah as well. The Promis-one of three bottlings in Gaja's Super Tuscan portfolio-debuted with the 2000 vintage and is comprised of Merlot, Syrah, and a small percentage of Sangiovese. This eminently accessible expression of Gaja offers voluptuous layers of black cherries and plums marked with rich cocoa and vanilla. This generosity comes across with surprising elegance, courtesy of the vibrant acidity.
Gaja 2003 Promis $39.98*
*Available for pre-arrival sale
Click for more recent offers from IWM!
Vintage
Babbo: Gaja Vertical
Monday, September 18, 2006
BLOCKBUSTER GAJA VERTICAL
The Babbo wine team, along with IWM's Portfolio Managers, are anxiously awaiting the arrival of a large shipment of Gaja wines, obtained from a fastidious private collector in Piemonte, Italy. An ample supply of Gaja's single-vineyard Barbarescos from the 1985 vintage is among the highlights, and it is these very wines that will take the lead in this spectacular vertical tasting on September 18! For more information on this event or to reserve your seat, please contact Caroline Marshall at 917.715.3599.
Host your own Gaja tasting at IWM! |
