August
4, 2005
Piemonte
- An Olympic Review
In This Issue
A
Note from Sergio
The 2001 vintage marks the culmination of the legendary Piemonte
streak that began in 1996, with the small crop selection of
1995 providing some hidden gems as well. Strings of outstanding
vintages in the Langhe are quite unusual, with the other noteworthy
stretches coming just three times in the last century: 1988-1990,
1979-1980, and 1905-1908. I emphasize the word 'outstanding'
because I believe that every vintage from 1996 to 2001 is
uniquely brilliant. However, it is important to understand
the significance of this phenomenon and the range in styles
that Mother Nature provided even before the grapes arrived
in the fermentation tanks. First and foremost, 2001 - like
1996 - is a landmark vintage in this string, more so than
2000 or 1997. I endorsed this vintage when the grapes were
still ripening on the vine and then from private barrel tastings,
and through the ageing process I became enamored with the
sheer complexity, class, and life of the wines. Intimate conversations
with Bartolo and Maria Teresa Mascarello and many other Barolo
producers whose opinions I admire have confirmed that in this
belief I am not alone. A few producers did make greater 2000s
than 2001s, but the majority did not. Secondly, Piemonte is
host to a great deal of “wine beyond Barolo,”
which also benefited from the rare climatic cycle: there are
vintage discoveries and values hidden in Langhe Rosso, Barbaresco,
Gattinara, Barbera, Dolcetto, Brachetto, and others from the
Langhe Hills.
When buying these wines you must understand exactly what
you are dealing with – as the media has stressed,
the 1997 and 2000 vintages are excellent and showcase an
approachable side to Nebbiolo, which is a nice way to introduce
wine enthusiasts to the often reticent, when young, wines
of Nebbiolo. The ripeness of these vintages is a calling
card to purchase wines from the northern regions of Gattinara
and Fara, where Nebbiolo often struggles for sun. However,
it is unjust to mark these as the quintessential vintages
just because they are "easier for Americans to understand,"
as so many journalists and critics have expressed to me.
Great Barolo, as in Mohammad Ali 'Great,' is 1996 and 2001
because to be great you must have longevity! These staples
for the collector’s cellar include more structure,
acidity, and ageability than the ripe, round, approachable
wines of 1997 and 2000. When the media bestows high ratings
on super-ripe vintages they run the risk of misrepresenting
the wines and creating an invalid standard for appraisal
and future reference. In the case of Barolo approachability
is just such an erroneous barometer, and the mystique of
this noble wine is being jeopardized. For a more approachable
version of Barolo my recommendation is to look at declassified
Nebbiolo or Langhe Rosso, like Bricco Manzoni and the signature
wines from Gaja, which now incorporate a touch of Barbera
to cut the astringency and add more fruit to the Nebbiolo.
As the talk of exceptional Barolo escalates, the other
wines of Piemonte fall under a shadow and demand to be heard.
Among them are Barbaresco, Gattinara, Langhe Nebbiolo, and
the enjoyable sweet wines made from Brachetto and Moscato.
Read on below to learn more about these wines and what they
have to offer, or to learn more about Barolo and its history
visit Barolo di Barolo.
My best,
Sergio
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Barbaresco
Outside Barolo, Nebbiolo takes the name of the various northern
Piemonte villages around which it resides, but none is as
eminent as Barbaresco. It is the third most collected wine
of Italy and is commonly referred to as Barolo’s younger
sibling: where Barolo is king, Barbaresco is queen. The name
Barbaresco is synonymous with the names Gaja and Giacosa -
but the "Queen of the Wines" does not begin and
end with these signature labels. The tiny Barbaresco DOCG
sits just ten miles northeast of Barolo and once again the
Nebbiolo is capable of displaying her nobility in the Langhe
hills. The small DOCG is broken up into three subzones around
the villages of Barbaresco, Neive, and Treiso, and as in Barolo
the practice of single-vineyard bottling is the calling card
of these collectible gems. For the most part Barbaresco lived
in relative obscurity until the 1960's, when Giovanni Gaja
(Angelo’s father) and Bruno Giacosa showed what it could
become. However, it wasn’t until Angelo introduced single-vineyard
efforts and canvassed the globe that Barbaresco took its rightful
place in cellars around the globe alongside the grand crus
of Bordeaux, the cult wines of California, and big brother
Barolo.
Barbaresco tends to be slightly finer, less tannic, and
more elegant and approachable than Barolo for a variety
of reasons, including a cooler climate, a lower alcohol
level requirement (12.5% compared with Barolo's 13%), a
shorter ripening period, and less stringent ageing requirements
- Barbaresco must age at least two years before release
with a minimum of one year in barrel, while Barolo must
be aged for three years with at least two in barrel. The
soil of Barbaresco is fundamentally a calcareous marl of
the Tortonian epoch (as opposed to the Helvetian soil found
in the powerful Barolo communes of Monforte and Serralunga)
and tends to yield softer, more aromatic wines similar to
those of the Barolo communes La Morra and Barolo. This is
particularly true for the wines from the Barbaresco subzone,
which is home to Ceretto's Bricco Asili and Marchesi di
Gresy. The wines from Neive can be a little more tannic
and powerful, as is exemplified by the wines of Giacosa.
However, producer style can mask the characteristics of
the area so stereotyping is difficult. For instance, the
Barbarescos of Gaja reveal rich fruit and more concentration
than the classic style of Giacosa or the well-recognized
cooperative Produttori di Barbaresco. Perhaps the biggest
(even bordering on hedonistic) Barbaresco comes from Neive’s
La Spinetta and their second label, Cocito. There's also
an opportunity to taste the wines of legendary winemaker
Beppe Colla of Prunotto before the winery was sold to Antinori.
However, as for all collectible wines it is best to speak
with a Portfolio Manager to find the style that best fits
your palate.
New Release Barbaresco
Gaja
2001 Barbaresco $169.50 (arrives late fall)
*Gaja 2000 Barbaresco $167.99
*Giacosa
2000 Barbaresco $69.00
Giacosa 2001 Barbaresco Santo Stefano $99.00
*Giacosa 2000 Barbaresco Santo Stefano $99.00
Giacosa 1999 Barbaresco Santo Stefano $116.48
*La
Spinetta 2000 Barbaresco Starderi $105.95
*Cocito
2000 Barbaresco Baluchin $68.00
*Orlando
Abrigo 2000 Barbaresco Montersino $56.10
Ada
Nada 1998 Barbaresco Valeirano $33.00
IWM 2000 Barbaresco Six Pack: $566.04*
*Free delivery in Manhattan
(1 of each 2000 Barbaresco starred above)
Vintage Barbaresco
Oddero
1985 Barbaresco $169.00
Gaja
1990 Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo $459.00 (future arrival)
Gaja 1988 Barbaresco Sori Tildin $339.50 (future arrival)
Giacosa
1996 Barbaresco Rabaja $189.00
Pio
Cesare 1990 Barbaresco $210.00
Prunotto
1990 Barbaresco Montestefano $219.00
Prunotto 1986 Barbaresco Montestefano $159.00
Ceretto-Bricco
Asili 1985 Barbaresco Faset $149.50
Ceretto-Bricco Asili 1990 Barbaresco Faset $229.00
Marchesi
di Gresy 1990 Barbaresco Martinenga $198.00
Marchesi di Gresy 1996 Barbaresco Martinenga $54.36
Marchesi di Gresy 1996 Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga $73.40
Dante
Rivetti 1988 Barbaresco Nevis $145.54
Click for extended offer of IWM Barbaresco!
Super
Piemontese Blends
Conterno Fantino’s Monpra, Clerico’s Arte, Rocche
dei Manzoni’s Bricco Manzoni, Aldo Conterno’s
Quartetto, Gaja’s Darmagi, and even Gaja’s Sori
Tildin (since 1996): these wines are all classified Langhe
Rosso DOC. Moreover, they are all are part of the group known
as Super Piemonte blends.
What is a Super Piemonte blend? Often they are technically
classified as Langhe Rosso DOC, Monferrato Rosso DOC, or
Piemonte DOC. However, this category is not limited to these
DOCs nor are they exclusive to this category, as there are
many great single-vineyard monovarietal wines that fall
into these classifications. In fact, these three classifications
act as umbrella denominations for wines that do not necessarily
fit the rigid regulations of established DOCGs like Barolo
and Barbaresco, instead representing the innovations of
winemakers who can’t seem to fit in. A further extension
of this category encompasses wines that completely break
the rules and are simply labeled Vino da Tavola or IGT –
prime examples of quality from this region include Cascina
Ebreo's Torbido. In short, Super Blends from Piemonte are
the region’s answer to Toscana’s Super Tuscan
movement. Many are the most approachable wines and the best
values of Piemonte, whereas many Super Tuscans have become
untouchable.
Perhaps the most important of these umbrella classifications
is Langhe Rosso, which includes all the winegrowing municipalities
of the Cuneo province. It refers to the Langhe Hills - home
to Barolo and Barbaresco, located along the Tanaro River
- and allows producers within this province to experiment
outside the limitations set by the local consorzi. Langhe
Rosso isn’t necessarily about Nebbiolo – in
fact, it welcomes the union of Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Pinot Nero, and Merlot. Certain producers, generally of
the modern (or moderately modern) school, believe that these
additional grapes can soften or add fruit to the more angular
Nebbiolo, as is the case with Valentino’s pioneering
“Bricco Manzoni.” Another view is that blending
can offer more personality - especially in off vintages
for Nebbiolo - as Gaja shows in his legendary trio: Sori
Tildin, Costa Russi, and Sori San Lorenzo, all of which
include a small percentage of Barbera along with the Nebbiolo
from Barbaresco.
Twelve Super Piemonte Blends
Gaja 2000 Sito Moresco $59.95
(Nebbiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Gaja 2001 Darmagi $189.95 (future arrival)
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc)
Cascina Ebreo 1999 Segreto $60.50
(Barbera, Nebbiolo)
Paitin
2000 ‘Paitin’ $34.00
(Cabernet Sauvignon)
Aldo Conterno 2001 Il Favot $58.00
(Nebbiolo - please note that this wine is classified Langhe
Nebbiolo)
Aldo Conterno 2001 Quartetto $39.00
(Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot)
Parusso
2000 ‘Bricco Rovella’ $38.66
(Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Rocche
dei Manzoni 1998 ‘Bricco Manzoni’ $30.94
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Rocche
dei Manzoni 1998 ‘Pinonero’ $46.80
(Pinot Nero)
Rocche
dei Manzoni 1998 ‘Quatr Nas’ $53.50
(Nebbiolo, Merlot, Pinot Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Clerico
2001 ‘Arte’ $39.00
(Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Voerzio
2000 ‘Vignaserra’ $44.80
(Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon)
IWM Super Piemonte Case (1 of each): $654.69*
*Free delivery in Manhattan
Gaja Langhe Rosso
Gaja 2000 Langhe Rosso Sori San Lorenzo $269.00
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja 2001 Langhe Rosso Sori San Lorenzo $279.95 (future
arrival)
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja 1997 Langhe Rosso Sori Tildin $395.00
Gaja 1998 Langhe Rosso Sori Tildin $219.00
Gaja 2001 Langhe Rosso Sori Tildin $279.95 (future arrival)
Gaja 2000 Langhe Rosso Sori Tildin $269.00
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja 1998 Langhe Rosso Costa Russi $219.00
Gaja 2001 Langhe Rosso Costa Russi $279.95 (future arrival)
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja 1998 Langhe Rosso Conteisa $129.95
Gaja 2000 Langhe Rosso Conteisa $167.99
Gaja 2001 Langhe Rosso Conteisa $169.50 (future arrival)
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja 1998 Langhe Rosso Sperss $159.50
Gaja 2001 Langhe Rosso Sperss $189.95 (future arrival)
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Click for extended offer on IWM Piemonte Blends!
Barbera
and Dolcetto
Barbera
The ultimate Italian summer red is also known to many as the
perfect pizza wine. With its jarring acidity, high alcohol,
low tannin, and lush fruit, Barbera is an ideal food wine
that will stand up to anything you throw on the barbeque.
No other wine has the versatility to cut through tomato sauce
or complement a steak just as nicely. It should be noted that
the recent string of warm vintages resulted in riper grapes
that are bigger, fruitier, and less acidic than in most years.
Barbera is the most planted grape in Piemonte and thrives
in this region more widely known for Nebbiolo. The wine
is often made by the majestic Barolo and Barbaresco producers
as a secondary, younger drinking choice. There are five
DOC regions in Piemonte that produce the most noteworthy
Barberas. The two most important are Barbera d’Alba
and Barbera d’Asti, both of which require 100% Barbera,
while Monferrato, Colli Toronesi, and Rubino di Cantavenna
may produce blended wines. Times have changed, and the easy
drinking wine is now in vogue. In the early 80’s Giacomo
Bologna’s Braida estate changed everything for Barbera
when he released his Bricco dell’Uccellone. He selected
grapes from the best vineyard and aged them in new French
barriques, and the results started a revolution when others
saw that oak aging can soften the sharp acidity and add
a dose of needed tannic structure. To gain an appreciation
of the range this grape offers, try some of the many collectible
and highly sought-after wines from Barbera producers like
La Spinetta, Hilberg, Braida, Coppo, and the joint effort
Hastae 'Quorum'. All are excellent drinking wines for the
summer grill.
Scavino
2002 Barbera d’Alba $23.98
Clerico
2003 Barbera d’Alba Tre Vigne $29.50 (future
arrival)
Bovio
2000 Barbera d’Alba Parussi $31.65
Villa
Sparina 1999 Barbera del Monferrato ‘Rosso Rivalta’
$58.65
Braida
di Giacomo Bologna '98 Barbera d’Asti Bigotta
$69.00
Coppo
2000 Barbera d’Asti Pomorosso $119.00 (1.5L)
Voerzio
2001 Barbera d’Alba ‘Pozzo dell’Annunziata’
$295.00 (1.5L)
Dolcetto
Piemonte’s “little sweet one” has often
been misrepresented as the “Beaujolais of Italy”
for its simplicity, low acidity, early ripening ability
(it ripens weeks before Nebbiolo), and easy-going character
of intense grapey aromas and fleshly fruit flavors. Unlike
Beaujolais, Dolcetto tends to be relatively concentrated,
and recently renewed interest in the variety is giving the
wine a new reputation as fat, dark and powerful. This indigenous
grape claims seven of its very own varietal DOCs which sprawl
intermittently across the south and southeast parts of the
region; the vine’s high sensitivity to soil types
generates subtle differences that distinguish the wines
of each zone. Of the best known denominations, Dolcetto
d’Alba is probably the foremost and is generally considered
the most prototypical, with the signature bitter almond
notes. Dolcetto d’Asti typically displays a brighter
style, and Dolcetto di Dogliani is known for some heavyweights.
Like Barbera, Dolcetto is made by many of Barolo and Barbaresco’s
great producers as a more approachable, younger-drinking
bottling for everyday enjoyment.
Bovio
2001 Dolcetto d’Alba ‘Dabbene’ $16.72
Scavino
2001 Dolcetto d’Alba $17.00
Scavino 2002 Dolcetto d’Alba $17.07
Abbona
2000 Dolcetto di Dogliani Papà Celso $18.13
Clerico
2004 Langhe Dolcetto Visadì $18.95 (future arrival)
Bartolo
Mascarello 2003 Dolcetto d’Alba $23.95
Pira
1998 Dolcetto di Dogliani ‘Bricco Botti’ $24.75
Click for IWM's featured producers!
Gattinara
and Gavi
Gattinara
Piemonte’s Nebbiolo is known for its long-ageing and
collectible wines from the Barolo and Barbaresco regions of
the Langhe. But going farther north, in the hills extending
from Novara and Vercelli westward toward the Alps, the noble
Nebbiolo grape (also known here as Spanna) shows her more
delicate personality. It is on the mountainside vineyards
of the Gattinara (DOCG), Carema (DOC), and Fara (DOC) zones
that Nebbiolo, like Burgundy's Pinot Noir, struggles for ripeness
but creates elegant wines marked with distinctive acidity
and minimal tannin. In the exceptional vintages of 1997 and
2000, however, the warm weather provided a must-have wine
with enough power to compete with the Barolos and Barbarescos
in the south.
Historical data from the archives of the Archdiocese of
Vercelli reveal that viticulture has existed since the reign
of Charlemagne on the hills where Dessilani now stands.
This confirms recent archaeological discoveries that suggested
wine has been produced in the area since Roman times. Experience
the skill of winemaking, developed and perfected through
the centuries, in a best-of-the-vineyard Gattinara Riserva
from the legendary 1997 vintage. The estate has been making
great Nebbiolo wines since 1892. Although more aromatic
than Barolo, the wine is similar in color, with deep garnet
red and orange reflections. Intense fruit and spice character
hits the palate, yet the full body yields a harmonious and
pleasant lingering finish.
Dessilani 1997 Gattinara Riserva $57.20
Gavi
It is said in Piemonte that the golden-haired Princess Gavia
was married against the wishes of her father, the Frankish
king Clodomiro. She and her bridegroom fled across Lombardia
to the land ruled by the Goths, but it was not long before
a local innkeeper revealed their secret to soldiers sent
to find her. In the end Gavia’s love won the king’s
approval, so the couple settled here and ruled the territory
as vassals to Queen Amalasunta of the Goths. The area is
now named for the princess, and the yellow-gold wine produced
here also takes her name to remind the people of her beautiful
tresses. Less romantic historians explain that the Val Lemme
was inhabited almost 2000 years ago by the Cavaturini tribe,
whose name derives from the caves that were their homes.
The land was therefore called Cavium, which quickly evolved
to Gavium and eventually to Gavi. Yet another group points
to the early Ligurian Ga Va or ‘land of hollows,’
again referring to the area’s many caverns.
Gavi is made from the native white Cortese, a vigorous
vine that thrives in southeastern Piemonte’s Monferrato
Hills and produces fresh wines of high acidity with subtle
flavors of apple, citrus, and honeysuckle. This wine earned
DOC status in 1974 and then became Italy’s second
DOCG white wine in 1998; it is now among the region’s
top wines and overshadows the neighboring white Arneis and
Erbaluce. A sparkling version of Gavi is also popular, as
Cortese lends itself perfectly to this style. There are
few wineries producing Gavi today, and IWM only carries
the very best: Villa Sparina’s Gavi di Gavi consistently
earns a place on our shelves with its peachy aroma, rich
palate, and signature almond finish. Their Monterotondo
is also a regular, showing prominent oak that combines with
the Cortese to create a unique flavor, and their newest
release is the Montej Bianco, which is a blend of Chardonnay,
Muller-Thurgau, and Sauvignon Blanc.
Joining Piemonte’s own elite whites is the French-
born Chardonnay, which gained popularity through the efforts
of Aldo Conterno and Angelo Gaja. These wines are very highly
respected internationally, and Gaja’s Gaia & Rey
leads the pack....
Villa
Sparina 2004 Gavi di Gavi $18.92
Villa Sparina 2000 Gavi di Gavi ‘Monterotondo’
$70.00 (1.5L)
Villa Sparina 1999 Gavi di Gavi ‘Monterotondo’
$70.00 (1.5L)
Villa Sparina 2004 Montej Bianco $17.82
(Chardonnay, Muller-Thurgau, Sauvignon Blanc)
Gaja
2000 Gaia & Rey $129.95
Gaja 2001 LaLanghe Bianconghe Bianco Gaia & Rey $129.95
Gaja 2000 Langhe Bianco Rossj-Bass $27.95 (375 ml)
Gaja 2003 Langhe Bianco Rossj-Bass $48.50 (future arrival)
(Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc)
Click here for Italy's Greatest Whites!
Piemonte
Sparkling and Dessert Wines
Perhaps the most common ambassador of this category is Asti
Spumante - the world’s second favorite sparkling wine
after Champagne, this semi- sweet sparkler is made from the
Moscato grape using the tank method. However, Piemonte is
home to numerous exceptional aperitifs and dessert wines,
most of which can be found at exceptional values. Many of
the wines are labeled as spumante, meaning fully sparkling,
or frizzante, which means lightly bubbly. Like Champagne,
these wines can be made in a dry, off dry, or sweet style.
The wines can even be taken to the other end of the spectrum
with grapes that undergo the passito method described below.
In addition to Spumante, the Asti DOCG covers Moscato d’Asti,
which is similar except that it has 1-2 degrees less alcohol
and lower CO2 pressure (i.e. fewer bubbles, therefore making
it frizzante). Due to the process by which it is made, it
is generally a vibrant off-dry or sweet wine that overflows
with fresh fruit and usually carries a semi-creamy texture.
This is ideal as a refreshing aperitif or even served alongside
desserts of cookies or biscotti. Be sure also to experience
the great Valentino's take on vintage champagne with his
1995 Brut Zero effort, which is actually made by the méthode
champenoise and is produced in a crisp, dry style, unlike
many of the wines offered in this section.
Massolino
2002 Moscato d’Asti $11.50
Massolino 2003 Moscato d’Asti $11.50
San
Giuliano 2002 Moscato d’Asti $17.00
San Giuliano 2003 Moscato d’Asti $16.50
Rocche
dei Manzoni 1995 Spumante Brut Zero $36.84
(Chardonnay)
Brachetto: Frizzante or Passito
Where Moscato d’ Asti is the ultimate semi-secco white
bubbly, Brachetto d’Acqui is the great semi-secco
red bubbly of Piemonte. Instead of vibrant tropical fruit,
the signature here is the flavors and colors of strawberry
with light bubbles. Made in the Monferrato hilltop area
of Acqui Terre-Strevi from the Brachetto grape, the wine
is an ideal companion to fruit and pastries in the hot New
York summer. In this example from Elio Perrone, the wine
is actually am innovative blend of the Moscato (46%) and
Brachetto (54%) grapes, creating a more sweet styled rosé
that explodes with flavors of red berries, peaches, apricot,
and white flowers. Serve it chilled with a fruit salad.
Perrone 2004 Bigaro Brachetto $18.70
Brachetto can also be made in the passito style, where
the grapes are allowed to dry via hanging or on lying mats
(as for Vin Santo, Recioto, and Amarone). Passito wines
are generally made in the sweet style and have a texture
polar to that of sparkling wine. At the artisanal estate
of Forteto della Luja Giancarlo Scaglione produces the cult
favorite Brachetto Passito. This obscure dessert wine is
another gem from the maker of the IWM star Le Grive and
is a must for the sweet wine connoisseur.
Forteto
della Luja 2001 Brachetto Passito $38.75 (375 ml)
Forteto della Luja 2002 Brachetto Passito $38.75 (375 ml)
Click here for a special sweet wine from Piemonte/Puglia!
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