Vestini Campagnano
Vestini Campagnano, situated in Campania’s San Giovanni e
Paolo zone, was the first winery to institute a research program
dedicated to the study of the ancient Pallagrello and Casavecchia
varieties, both of which went missing for hundreds of years and were
quite nearly lost altogether. Interestingly, the former of these
derives from a vine that produces both white and black grapes, and
the variety is thought to be a relation of the Pilleolata grape,
used in the production of the famous Falerno—the wine of Bacchus.
Held in high esteem by the Bourbon Royal Family, it was served in
the company of foreign wines to distinguished guests. Casavecchia
possesses no less noble a history, as legend has it that a Casavecchia
vine was one of the few vinous survivors of the phylloxera epidemic
and various diseases that plagued southern Italy.
For several years, it was believed that Pallagrello had succumbed
to the ravages of phylloxera. That theory was thrown out when lawyer
Peppe Mancini chanced upon some prephylloxera Pallagrello vines that
were being quietly tended by a few low-profile owners. Mancini put
his discovery into motion quickly, founding the estate of Vestini
Campagnano and becoming a full-time practitioner of the Pallagrellos
and their fellow Campanian, Casavecchia. Attracted to the defining
subjects of Vestini, oenological scholar Luigi Moio began a period
of independent study dedicated to these grapes, thereafter formally
assuming the role of oenologist at Vestini. In 1999, fellow attorney
Alberto Barletta became a partner of Mancini, joining a revival that
had already met with critical acclaim. Despite the success enjoyed
by the wines, not all was happily settled in the kingdom of Campagnano:
The attorneys dissolved their partnership in 2003, parting ways with
a separation agreement that allowed Mancini to retain both Moio and
the vineyard, but required him to relinquish the estate’s name.
Barletta assumed the direction of Vestini Campagnano, assisted by
consulting oenologist Paolo Caciorgna, who has served in this capacity
for over 25 discrete wineries, including Nicodemi and Fattoria Le
Fonti, in addition to the venture known as Oriel, which represents
the principal wine regions through winemakers who are recognized
as foremost authorities of the terroir concerned. They continue to
work with Vestini’s established varietal list while adding
to its base three in Kaja Nero (a blend of Pallagrello Nero, Casvecchia,
Aglianico, and Pizzutella), which debuted in the 2004 vintage.
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