Triacca
The Triacca estate comprises three individual properties— La
Gatta, La Madonnina, and Santavenere. The latter two are
Tuscan properties (situated respectively in the Chianti Classico
and Vino Nobile di Montelpulciano zones), while the former
is located in Lombardia. La Madonnina occupies a subplot
of the Greve Vineyard known as Strada; vineyards are predominantly
planted to Sangiovese, with a small portion dedicated to
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The Santavenere winery, acquired
by Triacca in 1990, cultivates several international varietals,
including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon
Blanc, in addition to Prugnolo Gentile, the clone of Sangiovese
particular to Vino Nobile di Montelpulciano. La Gatta, Triacca’s
Lombardia outpost, specializes in Nebbiolo, showcasing its
breadth of expression in a hierarchy of Valtellina Superiore
bottlings. Notable bottlings include the single-vineyard
Sassella and the Riserva bottling (the context for the estate’s
premier grapes), with the foremost expression being the Sforzato, which
utilizes partially dried Nebbiolo grapes. The last of these,
in fact, is the region’s signature wine.
While Nebbiolo has acclimated itself to the unique climatic
makeup of Valtellina, it has difficulties achieving a desirable
level of ripeness. Valtellina winemakers, however, have turned
this potential shortcoming into the unique and striking expression
that is Sforzato. While similar in style to the Veneto’s
Amarone, a Sforzato-styled wine realizes a more savory character
and aromatics of greater intensity through a viticultural regimen
entailing low yields. Triacca meticulously selects the clones
of Nebbiolo used and further ensures quality through yield
restriction. The estate’s dedication to innovative vision
has continued, most notably in its involvement in a cooperative
effort of Valtellina producers to maximize the potential and
image of Sforzato.
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