San Giusto
While often confused with the more famous San Giusto a Rentennano
estate, this modestly sized property nevertheless offers a visually
striking scene—presenting a full perspective of the island of
Elba. Established at the beginning of the century by Giovanni Bonti,
it is currently directed by Pierluigi Bonti (third generation), who
is regarded as a traditionalist and a fervent advocate of Sangiovese’s
inherent quality.
Bonti’s dedication to Sangiovese is honored throughout the
portfolio, particularly via the Sangiusto and Bontesco bottlings,
which are pure-varietal bottlings of the grape. He also produces two
blends: the Sassi al Sole, which unites the native Sangiovese and
the international Merlot, and the Rosso degli Appiani, the composition
of which, Sangiovese and Montepulciano, seems authored by a “ghost” region,
specifically Le Marche. While unusual for Toscana, the bottling provides
an intriguing counterpart to the major wine of Le Marche, as each
sets up its foremost grape with the premier grape of the other. The
grapes themselves make for a substantive contrast: Montepulciano delivers
generous black fruits and sweet tannins, while Sangiovese is more
of a savory character. Interestingly, while this bottling suggests
the potential that Montepulciano holds in Toscana, Sangiovese is somewhat
losing its place in Le Marche. Though still required in the Rosso
Piceno DOC, its contribution has been substantively reduced, and producers
believe that Sangiovese is better served altogether in Toscana.
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