About the Producer:
Collectors with a predilection for Brunello will no
doubt maintain very similar lists of coveted producers,
differing mainly with respect to order. Many, however,
will demonstrate agreement with respect to the top three:
Soldera will likely start things off, and positions
two and three will be filled by Biondi-Santi and Salvioni,
occupying second and third, respectively, or the reverse,
depending on the collector’s preferred stylistic
objective. Whatever Salvioni’s rank, it enjoys
the undisputed top spot in the cult Brunello genre.
It stands to reason that Salvioni would follow Soldera.
When Giulio Salvioni commenced production in 1985
at his La Cerbaiola estate, he did so with Attilio
Pagli at his side. Pagli’s career commenced
at Soldera, where he mentored under esteemed consultant
Giulio Gambelli. Some discern a likeness between the
style of the two houses, marked by a seemingly inexplicable
juxtaposition of concentration and finesse. This is
understandable, as both Salvioni and Soldera pursue
very unique and highly individualized protocols with
respect to the crafting of Brunello. Perhaps Salvioni
distinguishes himself most prominently through what
he doesn’t have, however—namely, a Riserva.
A Riserva would almost be beside the point, given
the exceptional quality and intensity that is realized
by Salvioni’s normale bottling. While many producers
struggle to integrate traditional and modern techniques,
Salvioni achieves seamless integration—a blend
wherein each enhances the other. Though the grapes
receive a traditional extended maceration of 25 to
30 days, they derive from a 3-hectare vineyard in
which Salvioni conducts a rigorous, modern-inspired
regimen of pruning and yield restriction. The intensity
of the protocol is such that production realizes a
mere 800 cases—an exceedingly low output. Tradition
reasserts its prerogative in the aging period, conducted
over a two-year period in Slavonian oak barrels. While
the wine is one of intense concentration, the structure
conditions this dense provision, affording it an elegant
expression. The maturation period of a Salvioni Brunello
typically extends over a 25-year period.
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