Mastroberardino
The winery was established in 1750 by Pietro di Berardino (he adopted
the title of Mastro, which eventuallymerged with Berardino)
and officially registered in 1878 by Cavalier Angelo Mastroberardino,
whose grandson, Antonio (of the ninth generation), is widely acknowledged
as one of the grand masters of Italian winemaking. Over the course
of two decades, the Mastroberardinos acquired vineyard land in various
areas of Campania and Irpinia. Beginning in the 1960s, they chose
to isolate the best areas in the latter territory, rendering them
the subject of intense study. This agenda demonstratively contrasts
with the bulk efforts undertaken by other winemakers in response
to the economic devastation wrought by World War II. The quality
efforts of the Mastroberardinos were championed by Antonio, who voraciously
defended the area’s ancient varietals, earning the title of “true
viticultural archaeologist” from renowned wine writer Hugh
Johnson.
The Mastroberardino estate played an imperative role in the revitalization
of Campania’s ancient varietals, and is solely responsible
for the resurrection of the Fiano, Greco di Tufa, and Aglianico varietals.
The first of these, Fiano, features in several DOC and IGT wines
and is widely considered to achieve its apex in the Fiano di Avellino
DOCG, which was established in 2003 (Greco di Tufa was accorded its
DOCG in the same year). This recognition largely derived from the
efforts of Antonio and Walter Mastroberardino, who are credited with
having saved the grape following its near devastation by phylloxera
in the 1930s. The brothers propagated a few remaining vines in the
1950s under the Mastroberardino label, serving as the sole quality
producer of Fiano until the early 1990s. However, it is Aglianico
upon which the winery based its reputation, effectively establishing
the reputation of Taurasi, a pure-varietal Aglianico, which was formally
recognized in the zone’s acquisition of the DOCG designation
in 1992.
As Mastroberardino was the sole producer of quality Aglianico for
several years, its potential as a grape and that of its fellow ancient
varietals only began to be recognized in the late 1990s, going on,
however, to receive universal recognition. Aglianico, in fact, has
cultivated a notable presence among wine enthusiasts worldwide, as
Campania’s celebrated climate, volcanic soils, and high elevation
all provide the perfect context for this late-ripening grape that
delivers a copious amount of black fruit, spice, and minerals. Aglianico
produces quality expressions throughout Campania, with the most notable
being Aglianico del Taburno, Irpinia Aglianico, and Sannio Aglianico.
However, it is in the Taurasi zone—Campania’s only red
DOCG—that the grape realizes the apex of its expression, captured
in the moniker Barolo of the South.
Mastroberardino’s 1968 Taurasi Riserva is the estate’s
most historically significant bottling, a reputation that is fully
recognized by its status as one of Italy’s landmark wines.
In 1980, the historic winery and cellars were damaged by an earthquake,
but restoration incited a complete renovation of the winery. This
tumultuous event also inspired the family to formally recognize the
extent of its fastidious research by sourcing its Taurasi bottling
exclusively from one vineyard, the 100-acre Mirabella site, which
possesses a clay-calcerous soil that is particularly conducive to
the growth of Aglianico. The family rechristened the wine Taurasi
Radici Riserva for its 1986 debut, with Radici (“roots”)
signifying its intimate connection to the region and its varietals.
The Mastroberardinos continue to undertake various research projects,
including efforts in the areas of aroma detection and classification;
polyclonal planting; and viticultural zoning. The mission of Mastroberardino
is presently directed by Antonio’s sons, Piero (current president)
and Carlo, who share their father’s passion for the region’s
indigenous varietals.
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