Marco De Bartoli
When Marco De Bartoli assumed control of his mother’s estate, Baggio
Samperi, he chose to steer clear of Sicilia’s mass production, championing
the form of Marsala that once positioned it among elite wines. De Bartoli virtually
instituted a minor renaissance for the category, albeit one contained within
his artisanal emporium, which functions as part showroom for his other passion—antique
cars.
De Bartoli’s Vecchio Samperi Marsala bottling—quite a rare find
in the States—is regarded as the highest caliber expression of Marsala,
achieving particular distinction for its ability to attain 18% alcohol sans
fortification. Matured via the solera method, in which wines of various ages
are stored in individual casks and fractionally blended, De Bartoli’s
Vecchio Samperi achieves considerable concentration, rendering it a consummate “sipping” Marsala
or meditazione wine, denoted by oxidized flavors of marked intensity—spice,
dried fruits, nuts, caramel, and mandarin orange. Its effusive nose delivers
a sweet impression that belies its wholly dry palate feel, and it drinks in
a place somewhere between Sherry and Madeira, though it seems to suggest a
preference for the latter. When Bartoli first entered the virtually nonexistent
luxury Marsala market, he hit the road to personally promote his wine, driving
it to a place it had never quite reached before….
De Bartoli is also credited with revitalizing Sicilia’s famous sweet wine—Moscato
di Pantelleria— through his Bukkuram bottling, the demand for which rivals
that of the Vecchio Samperi. His portfolio, however, is not dedicated exclusively
to Marsala’s redemption and the sweet hereafter. De Bartoli also crafts
dry wines utilizing Zibibbo and Grillo—the main constituents, respectively,
of the Samperi and Bukkuram bottlings; reds are also accorded a place via two
unique blends. His Marsala and Pantelleria bottlings, however, continue to constitute
the driving force of his estate. |
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