While the terraced vineyards of Cinque Terre are visually arresting, the wines hailing from such a striking landscape are largely anticlimactic—vapid expressions that fail to derive inspiration from their surroundings—nondescript and light, they find a ready audience in the tourist population. Outside this unfortunate discordance, however, Ligurian whites dissociate themselves from quaffer productions, with Vermentino and Pigato assuming the lead in the region’s increasingly compelling quality wine category. Interestingly, the two are often confused: If you were to look out upon a Ligurian vineyard plot, you might think you behold Vermentino as far as the eye can see. However, it is more than likely that Pigato figures in the scene as well, though its physical resemblance to Vermentino often incurs confusion. They also result in mistaken identities in the glass, as both possess an herbal character and salty quality. In fact, some experts posit that Vermentino and Pigato are, in fact, the same, with their ostensible differences born of terroir and viticultural distinctions. Pigato is, however, typically distinguished from its varietal familiar through a more intense aromatic expression and demonstrative palate performance.

Vermentino, however, is widely considered the region’s premier white grape. While this distinctive variety is also catered to in both Sardegna and Toscana, it doesn’t expressly reflect either of these zones in its tasting profile, deriving the most benefit from the climatic properties of each. Liguria and Vermentino, however, have something special going, a rapport or bond that is evoked in the wine’s distinctive herbal dimension, which evokes particular environs in the Liguria region and corresponds to the aromatic quality of Ligurian specialties. In the DOCs of Colli di Luni and Golfo del Tigullio—situated in Levante (eastern Liguria)—it is vinified principally as a solo varietal, while serving as a contributor to the blends of Cinque Terre and Colline di Levanto. It also realizes a particularly accomplished expression in the wines of the Riviera Ligure di Ponente, delivering a pronounced articulation of Liguria’s vegetation in a pronounced herbal cachet, distinct brininess, and savory dimension.