About Brunello di Montalcino:
While the Sangiovese varietal may have gained nobility through
Chianti Classico, its greatest interpretation is realized
through Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello—“the
little dark one,” the unofficial local name for the
Sangiovese Grosso clone—ripens better in this part
of Toscana than anywhere else, producing wines with greater
richness and body than others based on the same varietal.
Despite a relatively short history of 150 years (brief by
Italian wine standards), Brunello has quickly become the
most fabled Italian wine. While its creation is linked to
one family, there are various regional styles, as well as
producer styles, on the market today. It’s important
to understand these styles, the region’s history,
and the logic behind Sergio’s philosophy of quality
to derive the most value from your investment.
With ancient winemaking origins that date back to the 10th
century, Montalcino originally built its reputation on the
sweet wine, Moscadello di Montalcino. However, the future
greatness of the zone was secured in 1865, when Clemente Biondi-Santi
bottled a red wine labeled Brunello. His grandson,
Ferruccio, subsequently earned the title of “Father
of Brunello” for isolating and propogating the strain
of Sangiovese Grosso best suited to making high-quality, ageworthy
wines. Ferruccio’s legacy includes the historic 1888
Brunello, which became synonymous with longevity and the name
Biondi-Santi. While Brunello may, therefore, begin with Biondi-Santi,
it certainly does not end there. In 1961, Franco Biondi-Santi
remained the sole producer of this wine, crafting a mere 30,000
bottles at Il Greppo, the family estate. Over the decades
neighboring landowners joined in, and today there are more
than 240 winemakers producing seven million bottles of Brunello
each year. Given this rapid growth and tremendous variation,
it has become increasingly difficult for consumers to identify
the wines that truly deserve to carry the name Brunello
di Montalcino. Many wines on the market do not merit
the designation, but those offered by Il Poggione, Il
Palazzone, Baricci, Biondi-Santi,
and Cerbaiona, among
others, demonstrate the essential quality and requisite sense
of terroir at different levels and price points, setting their
wines apart through a respect for both the land and the varietal.
Selections from these producers also demonstrate the impact
of terroir on the character of a wine, realizing the subtle
variations that exist in a latent state in this small geographic
area.
The Montalcino zone enjoys the luxury of a Mediterranean climate
tempered by high altitudes that ward off disease and provide
a cooling effect that accounts for the signature high acidity
of the grapes. As previously noted, the wines are not at all
uniform: The grapes ripen in relation to their respective
geographic situation, and one of the most influential variables
is vineyard altitude. Montalcino may be conceived as a cone,
with the apex near the center, just south of the town of Montalcino.
From there, the slopes generally descend outward across the
zone. (Click
to view a map of Montalcino) The differences in altitude
and exposition throughout the zone play a substantial role
in the vegetal cycle of the vines. The impact of altitude,
location, and producer style is best captured by juxtaposing
wines at opposite ends of the spectrum. You will experience
denser fruit and approachability from Il Poggione and Talenti,
whose vineyards in the south are at a lower altitude than
those of Biondi-Santi, Il Palazzone, and Case
Basse di Soldera, which are more centrally located.
The latter producers also represent the more classic style
of vinification and aging, crafting wines with the structured
tannins and high acidity that are ideal for longevity. Due
to the myriad techniques being applied by different estates
today (including types of wood aging and duration of maceration),
it may be challenging to find the individual intricacies
of terroir in the wines you sample, but Italian Wine Merchants
can guide you in selecting the Brunellos that are best suited
to your palate. Contact an IWM Portfolio Manager at 212.473.2323
to further explore Brunello.
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