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Dolcetto |
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About the Grape:
Definition
and History
Literally “little sweet one,” this grape varietal
shares its name with the spicy light to medium-bodied wine
that is primarily grown in the Langhe region of Piemonte.
Produced under seven different DOC classifications, the best
known of which are d’Alba, d’Asti, and di Dogliani,
it is believed that the Dolcetto grape was discovered in Dogliani
around the fifteenth century, although according to legend
an edict from the Marchese di Clavesana in 1303 ordered that
only Dolcetto be planted in his territories under penalty
of death. Understandably, the Doglianese believe their Dolcetto
to be the truest representation of the grape and continue
the revival effort underway since the 1980s as an area producing
some of the finest Dolcetto.
Grape/Flavor Profile
Unlike the other two that make up the great triumvirate
of Piemontese red wine grapes – Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo
– Dolcetto’s aromas tend toward black fruits:
black cherries, black plum, black raspberries, and is reflected
in its dark purple color. Notes of licorice and spice are
not uncommon although complexity and fruit-fowardness in the
wine can differ depending on producer and terroir.
Those who expect a sweet red wine from Dolcetto will likely
be disappointed. Although its name suggests sweetness, it
is the grape, not the wine, that is sweet. In fact, a common
characteristic of Dolcetto is its satisfying slight bitterness,
a result of fermentation of the fruit’s high level of
sugar. Another reason for its name is the berry’s low
acidity: less acid means less competition with the sugar,
thereby emphasizing its sweet flavor.
It is because of this low acidity that Dolcetto is drunk fairly
young, best when no more than three years old. A common misconception
stemming from this fact is the unfair comparison to Beaujolais
Nouveau, infuriating Dolcetto producers to the extent that
some have actually made some to be drunk only a few months
after harvest to prove that it does not work as novello, or
nouveau. More nuanced than Beaujolais Nouveau, Dolcetto breezily
rides the fine line between luscious gulpability and restrained
elegance needed to successfully pair with complex dishes such
as rabbit risotto. Rather than overwhelming sweet fruit that
fizzles with no finish, Dolcetto lingers on the palate with
a pleasant hint of violets and anise.
The pride of the Doglianese, inspired by the acclaim of local
hero Andrea Chionetti’s Dolcetto in the early 1980’s,
combined with improved viticulture and advances in scientific
winemaking are lending a higher profile to Dolcetto as a more
sophisticated everyday wine. At generally $12-$20 a bottle,
it provides excellent value to those seeking affordable food-friendly
crowd-pleasing wine.
Pairings
Favored by Piemontese winemakers to drink with everyday meals,
Dolcetto is a versatile wine that can be easily enjoyed with
almost any food, in particular the cuisine of Piemonte. From
hearty winter fare of bean casserole with mixed sausages to
casual pizzas or pasta with a robust spicy tomato sauce, we
recommend Dolcetto with almost anything. For those who prefer
red wine year round, Dolcetto’s medium body and spicy
dark fruits are perfect for summer drinking.
Vintage/Drinkability
Because of its low acid and medium tannins, Dolcetto is best
enjoyed young. The 2004 vintage is widely available and has
been lauded by wine professionals as an excellent year in
Piedmont.
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