About the Grape:
Definition/History
Like Dolcetto, Barbera is the
wine named after the grape from which it is made. With its easy adaptability
and versatility, it is grown all over Italy and has even
been transplanted to warmer climates such as California
and Argentina. But Barbera thrives most famously
in cool Piemonte where it is the most widely planted varietal. Alba
and Asti stand out as the two areas that produce some of
the best examples of this wine.
Barbera wasn't considered
more than second fiddle to Nebbiolo, that is, until the
1980s when maverick producers such as Giacomo Bologna and
Renato Ratti began experimenting with the wine and coddling
it with the kind of care and attention usually reserved
for Barolo and Barbaresco.
Grape/Flavor
Profile
If Nebbiolo is celebrated for
its gargantuan tannins, Barbera is distinguished for the
very opposite reason. Barbera's
fruit and stems have virtually no tannin at all but compensate
for it with a high level of acidity. Instead of mouth-drying
austerity, Barbera's acidity activates the salivary glands
and the effect is mouth-watering crispness. It is
for this reason Barbera is one of the easiest wines to
pair with food.
But it was the lack of astringency that
pushed Barbera to the back of the pack until producers
such as the aforementioned Bologna began experimenting
in Asti with barrique aging. Because
toasted oak imparts its own tannins and the French barrels'
smaller capacity allows for a higher ratio of wood to wine
contact, a new kind of Barbera emerged, one with serious
body, structure, and aging capability. Syrupy aged
balsamic vinegar, dried figs, ink, black cherries, vanilla,
and leather are some of the notes detected in Bologna's
acclaimed Bricco dell'Uccellone, first released in the
early 1980s.
Meanwhile in Alba, Angelo Gaja,
the upstart who turned Barbaresco on its head in the 1960s,
also began aging his Barbera Vignarey in French oak and
found it harmoniously rounder with a fine balance between
acid and tannins. These
days, oak-aged Barbera commands the hefty price expected
from those wines deemed worthy to spend time in expensive
barriques. More interestingly, Barbera has been combined
with other Piemontese varietals, offering blends that reflect
the unique terroir of this northern region, an excellent
example of which is La Spinetta's luscious inky Pin from
Asti made from Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Pairings
As with most Italian wines, the food of
the region from which the wine originates is the best pairing. We
recommend anything tomato-based.
Oak aged Barbera will call for something sturdier, such
as osso bucco.
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